'  DOMESTIC  ART 

IN 

WOMAN'S  EDUCATION- 


FOR   THE   USE    OF    THOSE 

STUDYING  THE  METHOD  OF  TEACHING  DOMESTIC  ART  AND 
ITS   PLACE   IN    THE   SCHOOL    CURRICULUM 


BY 

ANNA   M.  COOLEY,  B.S. 

ASSISTANT   PROFESSOR  OF   DOMESTIC   ART   IN    THE  TEACHERS 
COLLEGE,   COLUMBIA   UNIVERSITY 


NEW   YORK 

CHARLES    SCRIBNER'S   SONS 
1912 


Cx 


COPYRIGHT,  1911,  BY 
CHARLES  SCRIBNER'S  SONS 


TO  MY  GRANDMOTHER 
ANNA    MARIA    COOLEY 


271686 


PREFACE 

THE  permanency  of  Domestic  Art  as  a  feature  in 
the  education  of  woman  is  assured.  It  is  so  vital  an 
expression  of  her  nature  that  any  curriculum  which 
does  not  include  training  for  the  home  sphere  ignores 
the  very  centre  about  which  her  life  revolves.  Many 
of  the  home  talents  are  innate  and  develop  naturally, 
but  many  lie  dormant  because  untrained.  When 
woman  begins  to  preside  over  her  own  home,  she 
soon  discovers  her  limitation  if  she  has  not  had  the 
advantages  of  training  along  the  lines  of  household 
arts  and  economics.  This  book  is  not  an  argument 
for  the  introduction  of  Domestic  Art,  for  that  is  un- 
necessary, but  it  is  hoped  that  it  may  be  of  value  to 
those  who  do  not  see  its  relationship  to  other  ele- 
mentary school  subjects  nor  the  place  it  may  occupy 
in  high  schools,  colleges,  or  trade  schools. 

Domestic  Art  has  suffered  because  many  have 
tried  to  teach  it  who  were  not  fully  prepared  to  do 
so,  and  who  have  failed  to  see  the  vital  relationships 
and  the  thought  content  involved.  The  subject  has 


Vll 


Ylll  PREFACE 

been  so  poorly  presented  in  some  places  that  it  has 
naturally  lost  favor,  but  this  is  not  because  it  lacks 
content.  It  is  hoped  that  this  little  book  may  be  of 
assistance  to  those  who,  knowing  the  practical  tech- 
nique of  Domestic  Art,  may  seek  for  more  light  on 
methods  of  presentation  of  subjects  and  planning  of 
courses  of  study  in  various  types  of  schools.  It  is 
also  hoped  that  it  may  offer  suggestion  of  the  content 
which  is  involved  in  the  study  of  Domestic  Art. 

The  author  wishes  to  express  her  thanks  to  the 
students  in  her  classes  who  have  kindly  permitted 
the  use  of  some  of  their  class  plans,  illustrative  of 
courses  of  study  suggested  for  different  kinds  of 
schools,  and  to  her  friend  and  teacher,  Mary  Schenck 
Woolman,  for  her  enthusiasm  and  inspiration  which 

prompted  this  work. 

ANNA  M.  COOLEY. 

January,  1911. 


CONTENTS 

PART  I.     SOME  PROBLEMS  CONFRONTING 

THOSE  INTERESTED  IN  TEACHING 

DOMESTIC  ART 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

I.    THE  FIELD  OF  DOMESTIC  ART 3 

II.    THE  RELATION  OF  DOMESTIC  ART  TO  EDUCATION      10 

III.  THE  NECESSITY  FOR  STUDY  OF  THE  PUPIL.    .      20 

IV.  PROBLEMS  CONNECTED  WITH  THE  PRESENTATION 

OF  DOMESTIC-ART  SUBJECTS 34 

V.    THE  STUDY  INVOLVED  IN  PLANNING  A  DOMES- 
TIC-ART LESSON  OR  SERIES  OF  LESSONS   .      57 

VI.    THE  ECONOMICS  OF  DOMESTIC  ART     ....      87 

VII.    How  TO  KEEP  IN  TOUCH  WITH  PROGRESS  IN  THE 

DOMESTIC- ART  FIELD  .  100 


PART  II.    DOMESTIC  ART  IN  THE  ELEMENTARY 
SCHOOL 

VIII.    DIVISION  OF  SUBJECT-MATTER  FOR  THE  ELE- 
MENTARY SCHOOL  1 08 


X  CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

IX.  THE  FACTORS  INVOLVED  IN  PLANNING  A  COURSE 
OF  DOMESTIC-ART  WORK  FOR  THE  ELE- 
MENTARY SCHOOL 122 

(a)  Course  of  study  for  Grades  1-4,  showing 

use  of  many  lines  of  hand-work  of  which 
domestic  art  is  but  one  phase. 

(b)  Course  of  study  for  New  York  Elementary 

School,  Grades  1-8,  showing  use  of 
domestic-art  work. 

(c)  Course  of  study  showing  use  of  textile 

phase  of  industry  as  one  line  of  industrial 
thought  for  Grades  1-8. 

(d)  Course  of  study  in  domestic  art  for  Ele- 

mentary School,  Grades  7,  8,  9,  with 
emphasis  on  the  vocational  aspect  of  the 
work. 

(e)  Course  of  study  in  domestic  art  for  Ele- 

mentary Schools,  Grades  5,  6,  7,  8. 


PART   III.    THE   RELATION    OF   DOMESTIC   ART 
TO  SECONDARY  EDUCATION 

X.    CAN  DOMESTIC  ART  CONTRIBUTE  TO  THE  GEN- 
ERAL AIMS  OF  SECONDARY  EDUCATION?     .     175 

XL    THE  SELECTION  AND  PLANNING  OF  WORK  FOR 

THE  SECONDARY  SCHOOLS 187 

(a)  Part  of  Household  Arts  Course  for  Secon- 

dary School  of  Classical  type. 

(b)  Domestic-Art  Course  for  Manual  Training 

High  School. 

(c)  Domestic-Art  Course  of  Study  for  Manual 

Training  High  School. 

(d)  Dressmakers'  Course  in  Technical  High 

School. 


CONTENTS  XI 

PART  IV.    DOMESTIC    ART  IN  HIGHER 
EDUCATION 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

XII.    DOMESTIC  ART  AS  A  PART  OF  COLLEGE  TRAINING 

FOR  WOMEN 246 

XIII.     DOMESTIC  ART  IN  OTHER  HIGHER  INSTITUTIONS 

OF  LEARNING 261 

A  SELECTED  BIBLIOGRAPHY  OF  BOOKS  HELPFUL 
IN  THE  STUDY  OF  THE  VARIOUS  PHASES  OF 
DOMESTIC  ART .  269 


DOMESTIC  ART 

IN 

WOMAN'S  EDUCATION 


PART  I 

SOME  PROBLEMS  CONFRONTING  THOSE 

INTERESTED  IN  TEACHING 

DOMESTIC  ART 


CHAPTER  I 
THE  FIELD  OF  DOMESTIC  ART 

THE  term  domestic  art  as  applied  to  part  of 
woman's  education  has  been  in  use  for  about  twenty 
confusion  of  years.  During  the  past  five  or  six  years 
terminology.  a  confusion  of  terminology  has  arisen, 

and  throughout  the  West  the  term  domestic  science 
is  used  to  designate  all  the  arts  centring  about  the 
home.  In  another  section  of  our  country,  especially 
the  Middle  West,  household  arts  is  used  synony- 
mously with  domestic  science,  so  that  naturally  one 
often  hears  the  questions,  "What  is  domestic  art?" 
"What  is  domestic  science  or  domestic  economy?" 

3 


4  DOMESTIC  ART 

•and:  cV1\Tlat:  is  meant  by  household  arts  ?  "  The  last 
title  is  probably  the  one  which  should  be  made  the 
general  term  to  include  all  the  arts  and  sciences 
which  centre  about  home-making.  This  seems  large 
enough  to  include  all  of  the  following  subjects,  which 
may  be  classified  thus: 


Domestic 
Science. 


Physics  and  chemistry. 
Physiology  and  hygiene*, 
Chemistry  of  foods  and  dietetics. 
Cooking  and  serving  of  meals. 
Bacteriology  and  biology. 
Laundering. 

Economics  and  sociology. 
History  of  foods,  preparation,  and 
manufacture. 


Household 
Manage- 
ment. 


Home  nursing  and  invalid  cookery. 

Keeping  household  accounts,  of 
food,  shelter,  and  clothing,  etc. 

Domestic  service. 

Household  sanitation  and  decora- 
tion. 

Institutional  and  home  shopping. 

Repairing  and  renovating. 

History  of  home,  sociology,  eco- 
nomics, and  business  law. 


THE   FIELD   OF   DOMESTIC  ART 


Domestic 
Art. 


Art,  especially  design  in  relation 
to  the  home,  its  furnishings,  and 
dress. 

Sewing,  dressmaking,  millinery, 
embroidery,  crocheting,  and  knit- 
ting. 

Study  of  textiles,  their  history, 
manufacture,  and  properties  in 
relation  to  use. 

Repairing  and  care  of  clothing. 

Physiology  and  hygiene  of  clothing. 

History  of  architecture  and  dress. 

Economics  and  sociology. 

This  broad  outline  is  perhaps  suggestive  of  what 
the  work  of  this  field  of  household  arts  may  mean, 
woman's  It  is  all  woman's  realm,  and  there  is  no 
generauydwe°ii  reason  wn7  woman  should  not  run  her 
organized.  household  on  scientific  and  artistic  prin- 
ciples. In  the  business  world  one  finds  that  man  is 
ever  ready  to  try  and  adopt  any  new  method  of  keep- 
ing books,  filing,  or  cataloguing,  and  is  constantly  on 
the  lookout  for  new  developments  of  science  which 
will  send  him  ahead  of  his  competitors.  He  would 
not  expect  success  without  system,  organization, 
knowledge,  and  principles  upon  which  to  base  his 
planning.  If  woman  is  to  be  trained  to  run  her 


6  DOMESTIC  ART 

household  scientifically  and  artistically,  to  know  the 
meaning  of  the  true  home-life,  and  the  study  of  family 
and  the  child,  teachers  must  certainly  be  well  trained 
to  introduce  this  subject  into  the  school  curriculum, 
so  that  when  the  mothers  of  the  coming  generations 
rear  their  children  it  will  be  on  a  foundation  which 
will  tend  toward  their  development  into  truly  good 
citizens — physically  and  morally  strong. 

The  subject-matter  included  under  any  one  of 
these  heads  involves  so  many  subjects  that  it  is  not 
the  attempt  of  this  book  to  describe  them  all — rather, 
attention  will  be  centred  (for  discussion  of  subject- 
matter)  about  the  field  of  domestic  art,  as  one  phase 
of  the  household  arts,  although  the  suggestions  for 
methods  of  teaching,  planning  of  courses  of  study, 
relation  to  general  education,  may  be  as  truly  appli- 
cable to  the  fields  of  domestic  science  and  household 
management. 

One  generally  hears  the  term  "  domestic  art "  in  use 

in  relation  to  sewing  in  either  the  elementary  or  high 

school.    This  is  a  very  narrow  usage  of 

Common  use 

of  domestic       the  term  when  one  considers  all  the  sub- 
jects above  outlined  and  the  underlying 
ideals    and    content   which    such    subjects    imply. 
The  ethical,  social,  and  aesthetic  values  are  often  lost 


THE   FIELD    OF    DOMESTIC   ART  7 

sight  of  and  the  material  or  utilitarian  side  made  the 
main  issue.  Not  but  that  this  should  be  strongly 
emphasized,  but  the  field  may  be  so  much  broader 
and  the  results  so  much  more  satisfactory,  in  relation 
to  both  work  and  child,  if  teachers  are  trained  with 
a  view  to  including  the  cultural  and  educational 
foundations  of  this  great  field  of  work. 

A   closer   analysis  of   subject-matter 

Closer  analysis  f    ' 

of  domestic  art   may  be  advisable  before  discussing  the 
relation  of  this  field  of  work  to  general 
education,  or  to  trade  and  industrial  life: 

1.  Hand    Sewing. — The    direct    application    of 
stitches  to  articles  of  interest  to  the  pupils. 

2.  Machine  Sewing. — The  use  of  foot-power  and 
electric-power    machines,    the    latter    especially    in 
schools  of  trade  type,  in  garment-making,  dressmak- 
ing, and  other  articles. 

3.  Drafting  of  Patterns. — Some  form  of  simple  rule 
drafting  or  system  drafting,  pattern  modelling,  and 
use  of  bought  patterns. 

4.  Millinery. — The  making,  designing,  and  trim- 
ming of  hats  of  various  styles  for  all  seasons. 

5.  Embroidery. — The  use  of  stitches  in  decoration 
of  garments,  household  articles  or  other  furnishings. 

6.  Crocheting  and  Knitting. — The  making  of  simple 
articles — forming  foundation  for  more  advanced  work. 


8  DOMESTIC  ART 

7.  Repairing   and  Care   of  Clothing. — Patching, 
darning,  remaking;  economy  in  relation  to  planning 
for  one's  wardrobe — or  for  family  wardrobe;  adapta- 
tion of  garment  to  use. 

8.  Textiles. — This  may  include  the  study  of  the 
textile  arts  of  weaving,  netting;  properties  of  textiles 
in  relation  to  use ;  history  of  the  evolution  and  manu- 
facture of  textile  industries;    dyeing  and  cleansing; 
study  of  widths,  prices,  and  qualities  of  materials,  as 
well  as  adaptation  to  use. 

9.  Hygiene  in  relation  to  dress  and  furnishings. 

10.  Art  in  relation  to  design  and  color  for  use  in 
the  home  and  for  dress ;  arrangement  of  interiors  of 
houses;  suitability  of  line  and  color  in  relation  to 
dress;  study  of  general  principles  of  design. 

11.  Woman's  Relation  to  the  Social  Field. — Discus- 
sion of  sweatshop  labor;  leagues  for  social  betterment, 
as  Consumers'  and  Municipal  League;    bargains; 
ethics  of  shopping;  development  of  social  conscious- 
ness; training  in  accuracy,  neatness,  foresight,  and 
responsibility. 

12.  History. — Industrial  history;  history  of  archi- 
tecture; history  of  costume;  development  of  house- 
hold art,  and  history  of  handicraft. 

13.  Economics  and  Simple  Business  Law. — Ec- 
onomics of  the  home,  relation  of  expenditure  to  in- 
come.   Household  management,  especially  in  rela- 
tion to  purchase  and  care  of  clothing  and  furnishings. 


THE  FIELD   OF  DOMESTIC  ART  9 

Household  arts,  of  which  this  domestic  art  is  a  part, 
has  been  happily  defined  as,  "a  comprehensive  term 
which  includes  the  scientific  study  of  all  matters  and 
means  which  will  contribute  to  the  happiest,  health- 
iest, and  most  efficient  family  life." 

REFERENCE  FOR  STUDY 
"History  of  Home  Economics  Movement,"  Bevier  and  Usher. 


CHAPTER  II 

THE  RELATION  OF  DOMESTIC  ART  TO 
EDUCATION 

IN  order  to  see  the  relation  of  industrial  work  to 
education,  it  is  necessary  for  us  to  consider,  in  a  few 
industrial  statements,  the  meaning  of  education 


rof  IduL    as  it:  is  now  generally  accepted.     The 
tion-  following  words   seem  to  sum  up  the 

situation:  "The  'education  of  the  individual  is  the 
process  of  adjustment  to  or  participation  in  the  world 
of  social  relationships  and  in  the  fund  of  social  ex- 
perience, the  ideals  and  methods  which  those  relation^ 
ships  conserve."  We  have,  therefore,  the  little  child 
in  our  midst,  the  little  child  who  is  to  be  brought  to 
a  realization  of  his  own  self  and  place  in  the  world 
and  to  see  his  relation  to  the  progress  of  events.  All 
the  culture  of  the  race  is  his  "  spiritual  possession" 
and  the  unknown  land  through  which  he  is  to  be 
guided,  in  order  that  he  may  become  an  efficient 
individual. 

10 


RELATION   OF   DOMESTIC  ART  TO  EDUCATION     II 

There  are  two  points  for  us  to  keep  before  us,  in 
considering  the  relation  of  industrial  work  to  edu- 
cation : 

1.  How  can  it  help  to  interpret  the  child's  social 
relationship  ? 

2.  Can    industrial   work   help    him    to  trace  the 
progress  of  events  which  have  led  to  present  civiliza- 
tion and  help  him  to  become  intellectually,  emotion- 
ally, and  volitionally  adjusted? 

People  have  been  slow  to  realize  that  hand-work 
has  been  a  potent  factor  in  the  spiritual  and  mental 
development  of  nations.  There  is  a  longing  in  every 
soul  for  expression.  There  are  many  useless  people 
in  the  world  to-day  because  of  lack  of  training  in  the 
industrial  arts.  The  individual  must  be  given  a 
chance  to  express  and  the  mind  allowed  to  react  to 
the  ideas  and  impressions  received,  in  order  that 
through  use  there  may  be  the  necessary  brain  devel- 
opment and  adjustment  to  new  conditions. 

From  time  immemorial  man  has  worked  with  his 
hands,  and  his  time  and  attention  have  been  utilized 

Hand-work  as      1R   the   production    of    things    both    USe- 
old  as  man.        ful  and  omamentaL     "Necessity "  very 

often  was  the  "  mother  of  invention, "  and  the  need 
for  food,  shelter,  and  clothing  led  to  the  gradual  de- 


12  DOMESTIC  ART 

velopment  of  industries,  from  the  simple  hand-work 
to  the  elaborate  products  of  the  factory  system  of 
to-day. 

Whether,  then,  through  necessity  or  simply  because 
of  joy  in  expression  through  the  hands,  the  world  is 
to-day  a  rich  treasure-house  stored  with  the  wonder- 
ful products  which  man  has  created.  The  instinct 
for  production  is  not  dead,  but  will  last  as  long  as 
man,  for  to  create  is  a  divine  and  God-given  instinct. 

Froebel,  in  his  study  of  the  child,  realized  that  his 
natural  activity  could  be  utilized  and  turned  into 
channels  which  would  lead  to  his  gradual  physical, 
moral,  and  intellectual  development.  He  believed 
this  should  be  of  the  head,  heart,  and  hand.  For 
that  purpose  he  introduced  the  gifts,  occupations, 
songs,  and  plays,  and  allowed  the  child  to  invent  and 
create.  Joy  and  happiness  in  work  were  the  results. 

For  some  time  kindergarten  training  was  a  pre- 
carious feature  in  education,  but  now  that  this  branch 
has  been  incorporated  in  the  public 

Froebel  real- 
ized the  value    school  systems  and  colleges,  and  finds 

of  hand-work.  ...  ,      . 

a  place  even  in  university  work,  it  seems 
an  assured  fact  that  children  are  to  receive  some  of 
their  early  training  in  the  kindergarten.  Here  their 
crude  ideas  are  worked  out  through  the  materials 


RELATION   OF  DOMESTIC  ART  TO  EDUCATION     13 

offered,  and  the  child  improves  in  his  ability  to  ex- 
press himself  with  his  hands — for  expression  is  neces- 
sary if  images  are  to  be  clear.  This  hand-work 
satisfies  the  early  craving  of  the  child  for  play  and 
the  practical,  and  the  gifts  and  occupations  become 
playthings  in  his  hands,  but,  unknown  to  him,  things 
of  educational  value. 

When  the  child  leaves  the  kindergarten  and  passes 
to  the  grade  school,  too  often  the  change  is  a  very 
abrupt  one.  There  is  a  lack  of  the  old-time  freedom, 
and  an  absence  of  the  play  materials.  Children 
then  begin  to  lose  interest,  and  the  attention  is  often 
forced  rather  than  spontaneous,  and  teaching  ceases 
to  be  as  effective. 

As  a  help  in  alleviating  this  difficulty,  hand-work, 
as  one  of  the  mediums  of  expression,  has  been  intro- 
Theintroduc-  duced  into  many  of  the  grade  schools, 
tionof  hand-  sometimes  in  correlation  with  other  sub- 

work  into 

schools.  jects,  but  more  often  simply  in  an  occu- 

pational way.  Hand-work  as  manual  training  is  most 
effective  when  taught  in  relation  to  the  other  work  of 
the  grade,  so  that  there  is  unity  and  a  harmonious 
development.  By  manual  training  is  meant  not 
simply  work  which  is  spontaneously  interesting  and 
keeps  the  child  alert  and  active,  but  work  which  is 


14    ,  DOMESTIC  ART 

educationally  effective.  This  effectiveness  is  in  the 
hands  of  the  teacher,  and  will  be  worked  out  by  her 
if  she  understands  the  theory  back  of  real  manual 
training  and  the  true  relationship  to  industrial  life. 

It  is  not  that  hand-work  is  to  be  introduced  as  a 
study  which  is  a  unity  in  itself,  but  with  other  studies 
which  go  to  make  up  the  curriculum,  so  that  it  may 
help  to  vitalize  the  rest  and  bring  the  child  directly  in 
contact  with  the  world  and  the  reality  of  things.  The 
constructive  activities  may  be  made  the  centre  of  all 
studies  and  radiate  into  all  life,  beginning  primarily 
with  the  home,  which  is  nearest  akin  to  the  life  and 
interests  of  the  young  child.  Through  the  different 
lines  of  hand-work  the  child  becomes  acquainted  with 
the  materials  and  processes  which  have  made  social 
life  what  it  is,  because  it  has  contributed  to  culture 
a  share  of  the  scientific,  literary,  aesthetic,  institu- 
tional, and  religious  inheritance  of  the  child. 

In  tracing  the  elements  in  the  curricula  of  various 
ages,  one  notices  that  they  are  the  result  of  the  domi- 
Hand-work  nant  social  tendencies.  The  seventeenth 
Stou^T*  century  saw  a  change  in  the  character  of 
WOTk-  society,  and  the  introduction  of  the  ver- 

nacular and  the  realistic  subjects  into  education.  The 
eighteenth  and  nineteenth  centuries  were  characterized 


RELATION   OF   DOMESTIC  ART  TO   EDUCATION     15 

by  the  prominence  of  the  scientific  element.  The 
twentieth  century  is  particularly  the  era  of  economic 
advancement,  and  we  may  hope  to  see  the  industrial 
element  becoming  more  and  more  a  feature  of  mod- 
ern education.  This  revolution  in  economic  changes 
has  caused  a  shifting  of  population  and  brought 
about  changes  in  habits  of  living.  People  living  a 
nomadic  life  are,  in  their  family  group,  economically 
sufficient  unto  themselves.  When  society  developed 
and  people  grouped  themselves  in  towns  and  villages 
the  neighborhood  produced  nearly  all  that  was 
necessary  for  life.  The  industrial  occupations  were 
centred  especially  in  the  home,  where  all  the  processes 
of  development  were  seen  and  participated  in,  from 
the  raising  of  the  wool  and  flax  to  the  spinning,  dye- 
ing, and  weaving  of  the  cloth,  and  the  production  of 
all  the  necessities  of  life.  This  work  was  partici- 
pated in  by  all  the  members  of  the  household. 

Since  the  industrial  revolution  and  the  rapid  ex- 
pansion of  the  factory  system  the  elements  in  the 
curriculum  have  not  kept  pace  accordingly.  While 
this  change  brings  so  much  that  is  good,  it  also 
almost  eliminates  much  that  was  of  value  in  the 
old  neighborhood  system.  Should  not  our  modern 
curriculum  respond  and,  if  possible,  try  to  make 


1 6  DOMESTIC  ART 

amends  to  the  child  for  the  lack  of  some  of  the  old- 
time  family  training,  where  the  child  was  taught  to 
do  in  the  home,  and  to  be  responsible,  and  to  feel 
that  he  had  an  economic  share  in  production? 

Should  not  the  training  which  is  given  the  children 
in  the  upper  grades  be  planned  to  prepare  them  for 
Direct  bearing  a  society  which  is  industrial,  as  ninety- 

wo^on^tral-      fiv6    Pel    C6nt    d°   n0t   PaSS    int°    hiSher 

ing  for  life.  schools  ?  Is  not  hand-work  for  the  little 
people  if  directly  connected,  first  with  home  inter- 
ests and  then  with  the  evolution  of  the  social  in- 
dustrial interests,  a  step  in  the  right  direction, 
keeping  in  mind  what  the  future  development  must 
be?  Can  we  not,  through  making  these  construc- 
tive activities  a  part  of  our  curriculum,  acquaint 
the  child  with  the  things  which  make  for  true 
culture  and  liberal  education,  as  well  as  give  him 
an  introduction  to  industrial  life?  Let  us  teach 
him  the  wisdom  of  foresight  which  is  so  essential 
to  success,  to  be  a  responsible  being  with  obliga- 
tions toward  his  fellowmen;  let  us  acquaint  him 
with  their  needs  and  conditions,  that  his  sympathies 
may  become  broadened  and  a  deeper  reverence  for 
man  and  God  may  result.  If  acquaintance  with 
industrial  work  can  help  to  contribute  some  of  these 


RELATION   OF  DOMESTIC  ART  TO  EDUCATION     17 

things,  it  is  surely  a  vital  part  of  education,  in  fact, 
the  very  core  of  a  liberal  education. 

There  is,  however,  often  danger  of  the  teacher  of 
constructive  work  overestimating  the  importance  of 
Danger  of  ner  ^ne  °f  activity.  There  must  be 
ta^taSdf*"  balance  in  a11  things,  and  the  industrial 
hand-work.  work,  or  later  domestic  art  as  a  part 
of  industrial  work,  should  conform  to  the  other 
studies  and  the  relative  amount  of  time  be  allowed 
for  it.  Household  arts,  of  which  domestic  art 
is  one  phase,  stand  out  pre-eminently  in  the 
field  of  industrial  work  as  a  part  of  education 
for  woman.  There  are  so  many  reasons  why 
this  is  true.  The  girl  becomes  interested  in  life 
because  she  is  dealing  with  things  pertaining  to 
every-day  life;  she  sees  connections,  if  the  teacher 
will  aid,  in  the  study  of  history,  geography,  arith- 
metic, etc.,  and  this  unity  helps  in  memory.  She 
begins  to  feel  useful  because  she  can  do  or  make 
things  for  others,  and  here  begins  the  development 
Domestic  art  °f  social  consciousness  which  is  so  im- 
girnn^ry-116  Portant  a  factor  in  the  development  of  a 
day  life.  t^y  educated  person.  This  study  leads 

a  girl  to  see  her  ability  along  certain  lines  of  work, 
and  often  ultimately,  among  certain  classes,  to  a 


1 8  DOMESTIC  ART 

selection  of  desirable  work  for  life.  A  connection  is 
made  between  life  and  technical  work  If  properly 
taught,  domestic  art  should  have  a  higLl)  moral  ef- 
fect. It  makes  for  perfect  sanity  and  mental  health, 
it  develops  the  will  and  power  of  inhibition  which  is 
the  root  of  self-control  in  morals;  it  makes  for  firm- 
ness and  force  of  character.  A  product  which  is 
correctly  and  neatly  finished  certainly  fosters  this. 
It  must  be  clean,  simple,  accurate — this  accuracy,  of 
course,  after  a  child  has  passed  the  age  of  about 
nine  years. 

Girls  learn  to  understand  the  value  of  a  well-made 
article.  This  affects  supply  and  demand,  as  woman 
is  the  greatest  consumer,  and  will  also  affect  the 
salary  of  the  wage-earner.  Good  articles  will  be  in 
demand.  Domestic  art  also  gives  an  understanding 
of  materials,  which  will  be  of  economic  value  in  the 
home,  and  will  also  regulate  the  materials  put  upon 
the  market.  There  is  certainly  created  a  greater 
respect  for  labor.  While  learning  through  this  natu- 
ral method  of  doing,  the  observation,  judgment,  and 
imagination  of  the  girl  are  all  receiving  training.  A 
vital  connection  is  being  made  with  the  home,  for 
this  new  interest  finds  expression  there  and  opportu- 
nity for  further  cultivation.  Girls  value  most  highly 


RELATION   OF  DOMESTIC  ART  TO  EDUCATION     19 

the  ability  to  utilize  things  which  they  have,  and 
are  interested  in  making  home  comfortable  and 
pleasant  through  decoration  and  the  ability  to  do 
which  this  new  art  makes  possible.  There  is  an 
ever-increasing  pleasure  in  correct  color  combina- 
tions and  restful  effects,  and  increased  enjoyment  of 
the  beauties  of  nature.  As  the  girl  advances  in  the 
work  she  also  learns  how  to  plan  her  wardrobe  eco- 
nomically, how  to  purchase  wisely,  and  how  to  make 
her  own  clothes  so  that  they  will  be  adapted  to  her 
use  and  personality.  This  may  lead  her  into  trade 
work  as  a  means  of  livelihood,  for  the  opportunities 
are  many  which  this  field  of  domestic  art  affords. 
There  is  no  stronger  argument  for  this  work  than 
this,  that  it  should  make  her  a  more  truly  capable 
woman,  one  sympathetically  awake  to  the  difficul- 
ties of  others,  able  and  ready  to  lend  her  trained 
hand,  and  responsible  to  bear  her  share  of  the  bur- 
den of  life. 

REFERENCES  FOR  STUDY 

"The  Child  and  the  Curriculum,"  Dewey. 

"Education  of  Man,"  Froebel. 

"The  Meaning  of  Education,"  Butler. 

"School  and  Society,"  Dewey. 

"The  Place  of  Industries  in  Elementary  Education,"  K.  Dopp. 


CHAPTER  III 

^     .  -.-**•*' 

THE  NECESSITY  FOR  STUDY  OF  THE  PUPIL 

ONE  may  be  very  familiar  with  the  technique  of 

domestic  art  and  have  intimate  knowledge  of  the 

underlying  thought  content,  may  know 

Knowledge  of 

child  nature       how  to  present  all  of  these  .  thoughts, 

important. 

and  yet  fail  as  a  teacher  of  domestic  art 
because  of  lack  of  understanding  of  the  different 
periods  of  childhood  and  girlhood.  It  is  equally 
as  important  as  technique  of  subject-matter  to 
know  the  intricacies  of  working  of  the  mind  with 
which  the  teacher  must  deal  and  the  effect  various 
kinds  of  work  may  have  on  the  pupil  at  different 
periods.  A  study  of  the  many  expressions  of  the 
self-activity  of  the  child  is  a  basis  for  planning  the 
curriculum — either  of  general  studies  or  of  domestic 
art  in  relation  to  them. 

"The  Case  is  of  Child.  It  is  his  present  powers 
which  are  to  assert  themselves;  his  present  capacities 
which  are  to  be  exercised;  his  present  attitudes 
which  are  to  be  realized.  But  save  as  the  teacher 


THE  NECESSITY  FOR   STUDY   OF   THE   PUPIL       21 

knows,  knows  wisely  and  thoroughly  the  race  experi- 
ence which  is  embodied  in  that  thing  we  call  curri- 
culum, the  teacher  knows  neither  what  the  present 
power,  capacity,  or  attitude  is,  nor  yet  how  it  is  to 
be  asserted,  exercised,  and  realized. " 

The  problem  before  us  in  planning  hand-work  for 
children,  is  one  which  should  centre  directly  in  the 
work  should  child.  We  should  begin  with  him  and 

ontatoestfof  end  with  him  *n  OUT  consideration,  and 
the  child.  p}an  our  W0rk  with  his  growth  and  de- 
velopment in  view.  The  teacher  must  select  the 
right  stimuli  for  those  impulses  which  are  to  be 
employed  and  must  know  the  aim  and  direction  of 
movement  in  planning — there  must  be  a  basis  for  ac- 
tion. The  experience  of  the  teacher  therefore  must 
interpret  the  mind  of  the  child  and  lead  on  to  some 
definite  aim. 

It  is  not  the  accumulation  of  knowledge  which  we 
hope  to  heap  upon  him  in  our  planning,  or  direct 
information  in  relation  to  concrete  things,  but  to 
bring  him  to  a  realization  of  his  relation  to  life.  It 
has  been  said  that  "knowledge  is  not  valuable,  but 
knowledge  as  a  function  in  life  is  indispensable." 

The  little  child  loves  to  do,  to  act,  to  express  what 
he  sees  in  a  constructive  way.  He  first  learns  to 


22  DOMESTIC  ART 

construct  through  play  in  making  believe.  He  loves 
to  see  results  quickly  and  to  make  wholes  rather 
Love  of  ex-  than  parts  of  things.  At  this  period  he 

construction  of     CarCS  m°re  for  the  aCtUal  Products  than 

the  little  child,  f or  fae  processes  by  which  they  are  made . 
Both  are  necessary  for  complete  education.  He  wishes 
to  imitate  all  phases  of  adult  activity,  but  as  play,  not 
as  work.  There  are,  though,  occasional  periods  when 
the  child  likes  to  feel  that  he  is  working,  even  though 
it  is  in  a  play  way,  as  helping  mother  to  dust,  clean, 
or  sew.  The  real  work  attitude  comes  later  in  the 
child's  life  and  must  be  kept  in  mind  in  planning 
courses  in  hand-work.  But  play  as  well  as  work  is 
necessary  in  the  development  of  mind  and  most  of 
early  development  comes  through  play  in  games,  etc. 
Aristotle  and  Plato  would  have  us  realize  the  value 
in  play,  and  Froebel's  philosophy  is  based  upon  the 
development  of  the  child  through  his  activity  in  play, 
games,  and  occupations.  Later  he  must  learn  to 
work  in  order  to  become  truly  socialized  and  be 
taught  to  see  that  products  of  work  have  an  economic 
value. 

The  child  loves  also  to  investigate,  to  explore — 
and  this  may  later  lead  him  to  science.  He  under- 
stands things  and  the  lives  of  those  about  him, 


THE  NECESSITY  FOR  STUDY  OF  THE  PUPIL       23 

in  so  far  as  he  realizes  his  ability  to  do  and  sees 

his  relation  to  the  lives  of  others.     He  finds  himself 

in  the  midst  of  a  complex  world.     Per- 

Love  of  ex- 
ploration and      haps  to  him  it  may  not  appear  so,  for 

investigation.  .         .         .  .        .  .       . 

he  is  directly  concerned  with  the  con- 
crete world  which  lies  nearest  to  and  just  about  him. 
His  interests  centre  in  the  home,  the  people  and 
animals  there,  the  personal  attachments  and  love 
and  sympathy  of  those  about  him.  Therefore  the 
early  activities  in  school  in  order  to  connect  with 
the  home  and  be  vitalized  should  centre  there  also. 
He  loves  best  the  things  which  he  understands  best. 
The  teacher  must  guard  against  the  impulse  in 
children  to  do  things  at  random  and  must  direct 
the  impulse  into  paths  where  real  value  may  be  the 
result. 

The  child  likes  also  to  talk  about  his  work;  the 
mind  must  react  and  express  itself  if  it  has  been 
Avenues  of  ex-  impressed.  The  teacher  of  hand-work 

?he  young0'          mUSt   Utiliz6   this    instinct   and    helP   the 

child.  children   to   see   relation   between  the 

thought  expressed  in  words  and  the  act  as  con- 
structed. A  chance  for  additional  expression  is 
through  the  medium  of  pencil  or  crayon.  Hand- 
work, then,  should  mean  for  the  child  interpretation 


24  DOMESTIC  AET 

of  this  social  life  through  the  mediums  of  form, 
color,  and  materials. 

Because  of  the  above  natural  instincts  of  little 
children,  we  must,  in  planning  our  work,  utilize  them 
to  best  advantage  in  order  to  make  hand-work  a 
vital  part  in  education. 

Owing  to  the  reasons  given  above,  the  constructive 

work  of  the  later  kindergarten  and  first  grade  should 

be  related   to    the    child's    home    life. 

Early  grade 

work  to  relate    This  will  necessarily  vary  with  locality 

to  home  life. 

and  environment.  The  central  thought 
of  mother,  family,  household  activities  may  be  the 
starting-point  for  nearly  all.  If  the  children  under 
consideration  are  those  in  a  small  village,  the  inter- 
ests following  the  home  would  be  those  of  village 
life,  construction  in  relation  to  the  farm  and  agri- 
cultural life,  the  village  blacksmith,  store,  church, 
etc.  By  the  time  he  reaches  the  second  or  third 
grade  and  his  own  surroundings  have  in  a  degree 
been  interpreted,  he  may  be  introduced  to  the  lives 
of  other  little  children  and  primitive  people  and  their 
methods  of  securing  food,  shelter,  and  clothing, 
which  have  come  to  him  so  easily.  In  later  years, 
after  comparisons  have  been  drawn,  he  may  be 
led  from  the  knowledge  of  rural  life  to  that  of  the 


industrial  life  of  city,  state,  and  national  affairs,  in 
order  that  he  may  understand  something  of  their 
complexity  and  his  relation  to  it.  By  the  time  the 
high  school  period  is  reached,  the  relation  of  trade 
and  industry  may  be  understood  and  the  child  have 
some  knowledge  of  the  relationships  existing  in  them 
and  of  the  obligation  resting  upon  him  to  share  in 
the  activity. 

If  the  locality  of  the  city  child  is  the  starting-point 

in  planning,  the  construction  of  things  in  relation 

to   home   interests  may  again   be   the 

Locality  and  J 

environment      centre,  and  the  radiation  from  them  into 

affect  the 

course  of  the  field  of  interests  nearest  akin  to  the 
life  of  rich  or  poor  child.  The  compari- 
son of  present  life  as  the  child  knows  it  with  that  of 
more  primitive  people,  the  different  stages  of  hunting, 
fishing,  and  agricultural  development,  in  some  locali- 
ties must  necessarily  be  postponed  a  little  later  than 
the  second  grade,  until  the  children  are  ready  for  it. 
There  can  be  no  hard  and  fast  rules  in  relation  to  the 
general  course  of  study  or  particular  relation  of  hand- 
work to  it. 

The  real  spirit  of  work  or  construction  as  work 
does  not  begin  until  about  the  twelfth  year  of  the 
child's  life.  Then  the  industrial  work  may  be  closely 


26  DOMESTIC  ART 

related  to  the  particular  trade  or  industry  of  a  lo- 
cality. With  the  young  children  one  must  keep  in 
Main  aim  with  mmd  the  idea  that  finished  products  of 
the  young  £ne  technique  are  not  the  end  and  aim 

child  is  train- 
ing, in  view.     It  is  the  child's  development 

Results  ex- 
pected to  be       first  and  foremost  and  one  must  expect 

rather  crude  results.  Owing  to  the  physi- 
cal growth  and  peculiar  nervous  development  of  chil- 
dren, a  large  variety  of  materials  for  constructive  work 
should  be  used,  and  only  those  which  excite  to  broad 
action  in  which  no  details  of  perfection  are  required. 
In  the  use  of  these  materials  and  processes  there 
must  be  adjustment  to  the  mental  and  physical 
capacities  of  the  child. 

As  Dr.  Dewey  says,  the  school  should  represent  to 
the  child  the  real  life  of  society.  It  should  be  a 
miniature  community  because  an  individual  can 
have  no  life  apart  from  society  and  he  can  realize 
his  aims  best  by  making  them  accord  with  the  desires 
of  society  in  general.  The  work  of  education  in  the 
school,  therefore,  whether  through  hand-work  or 
otherwise,  is  to  help  the  child  to  see  his  relation  to 
the  whole.  All  the  possessions  of  the  race  are  to  be 
bestowed  upon  the  individual  so  that  he  may  carry 


THE  NECESSITY  FOR   STUDY  OF   THE  PUPIL       27 

them  forward  with  the  additional  thought  and  prog- 
ress of  his  times.  Here,  also,  he  is  to  glance  ahead 
into  the  future  and  to  learn  to  take  his  place  among 
the  men  of  real  life.  Here  he  must  learn  justice, 
order,  and  co-operation;  he  must  develop  inde- 
pendence of  action  which  shall  later  become  leader- 
ship. 

Because  the  child  is  a  social  being  and  the  school 
is  to  be  made  his  little  world,  attention  should  be 
value  of  group  given  to  group  work.  Through  it  the 


child.  respect   and  adapt   himself  to  various 

interests  and  natures  and  to  work  for  a  common 
good  or  whole.  "The  mere  absorption  of  facts  or 
truths  is  so  expressly  individual  an  affair,  that  it 
tends  very  naturally  to  selfishness.  When  children 
are  engaged  in  active  work,  helping  others,  it  sets 
free  the  powers  of  the  one  who  gives  and  is  an  in- 
centive to  the  one  helped."  While  the  individual 
parts  mean  much  to  each  child  as  his  contribution 
or  help  toward  the  whole,  it  is  the  whole  result 
which  is  of  value  to  the  little  community  because 
of  the  co-operative  spirit  expended  in  bringing  them 
together.  This  combination  of  interests  has  been 
happily  called  orchestration,  and  surely  it  reaches 


28  DOMESTIC  ART 

that  where  the  work  is  the  expression  of  joy,  and 
good  will  and  sweet  harmony  are  the  result. 

If,  then,  through  group  work  and  individual  con- 
structive work  the  child  is  made  to  feel  that  he  is 
really  a  part  of  society  in  his  little  world,  and  is  given 
an  insight  into  the  culture  of  the  race  possessions  and 
industrial  development  and  a  foresight  as  he  works 
with  others,  surely  this  work  may  be  said  to  con- 
tribute its  share  in  the  vital  education  of  the  child. 

The  task  before  the  teacher  is  one  of  great  respon- 
sibility. We  are  to  make  this  hand-work  one  means 
of  developing  the  child  in  the  fullest  possible  manner. 

During  the  early  grades,  the  child  is  not  able  to 
make  the  fine  adjustments  which  are  required  for 
fine  sewing — one  expects  crude  results,  but  by  trie 
time  the  fifth  grade  is  reached  the  teacher  should 
demand  more  accurate  work  and  greater  neatness. 
Very  often  teachers  neglect  to  do  so  and  the  result 
is  that  slovenly  habits  of  action  are  formed. 

It  is  during  the  period  from  eight  to  fourteen 

years  of  age  that  the  teacher  of  domes- 
close  contact      J 

between  tic  art  has  an  unusual  opportunity,  be- 

teacher  and  . 

girl  a  factor  in    cause   of   her   close   contact   with   the 
girls,  to  help  develop  their  social  con- 
sciousness and  is  able  to  suggest  opportunities  of 


THE  NECESSITY  FOR   STUDY   OF  THE  PUPIL       29 

thinking  about  and  helping  others  in  a  practical  way. 
It  is  during  this  period  too  that  supplementary  talks 
on  clothing,  hygiene,  appropriateness  of  dress  are  of 
particular  value — and  make  much  impression.  It  is 
the  period  when  the  inner  life  of  the  girl  is  con- 
cealed from  others  and  is  so  often  fraught  with 
many  dangers.  The  teacher  of  domestic  art  has 
many  responsibilities  here,  for  comparatively  few 
girls  pass  beyond  the  elementary  school  education, 
so  that  the  time  is  limited  in  which  much  must  be 
accomplished  if  the  teacher  would  be  of  the  greatest 
possible  aid. 

As  the  girl  enters  upon  the  age  of  adolescence,  the 
teacher  should  understand  this  period  of  girlhood 
Physical  an^  not  only  adapt  her  work  to  it,  but 

ihTperiodif g  make  the  most  of  the  exPressions  of  this 
adolescence.  period  of  development.  It  is  the  time  of 

abrupt  bodily  transitions,  the  girl  is  restless,  is  grow- 
ing rapidly  and  needs  plenty  of  rest,  and  exercise, 
proper  food  and  clothing.  The  teacher  of  domes- 
tic art  should  be  alive  to  these  things,  and  the  girl 
should  not  be  overtaxed  nervously  nor  the  eyesight 
strained.  It  is  often  .  possible  for  the  domestic-art 
teacher  to  discover  defects  of  eyesight  that  may  not 
have  been  noticed  by  any  one  else.  Because  of  the 


30  DOMESTIC   ART 

intimacy  of  relationship  between  teacher  and  pupils, 
the  hopes,  ambitions,  needs  of  the  girls  are  expressed 
to  the  teacher,  so  that  opportunity  is  afforded  to 
guide  them  perhaps  in  choosing  their  life  work.  As- 
sistance may  often  be  given  which  will  affect  the 
whole  life  trend  of  the  girl,  for  this  is  the  period  of 
intense  ambition  for  her  own  life,  either  in  respect  to 
marriage,  self-support,  or  even  socially  in  the  school 
or  community.  It  is  the  age  of  interest  in  manual 
training,  when  the  development  of  the  muscles  gives 
strength  for  the  control  and  use  of  tools.  The  most 
important  service  the  domestic-art  teacher  can  render 
during  this  period  is  to  instruct  the  girls  in  the  im- 
portance of  proper  clothing  and  food  as  the  foun- 
dations of  good  health.  This  aspect  of  the  work 
also  emphasizes  the  principles  of  domestic  science. 
During  this  adolescent  period,  the  domestic-art 
teacher  should  be  conscious  of  the  mental  changes 
Mental  °f  ner  pupils.  She  will  be  aware  of  a  cer- 

changes.  tajn  jncrease  Qf  vjgOr  of  mind  an(J  Opeil- 

mindedness  as  it  were.  It  is  the  time  of  the  develop- 
ment of  the  reason  and  judgment  and  should  not  be 
hampered  by  too  much  memorizing.  There  is  every 
opportunity  for  developing  judgment  in  the  domestic- 
art  work — and  the  teacher  may  soon  learn  whether 


THE  NECESSITY  FOR   STUDY   OF   THE  PUPIL       31 

the  service  is  of  the  lips  or  based  on  individual  grasp 
of  the  problem.  Girls  are  often  lazy  and  are  content 
to  accept  subject-matter  which  is  given  to  them 
without  question,  whereas  a  boy  would  wish  to 
know  "the  why."  Generally  the  girl  is  alert,  bright, 
and  interested  in  things— and  the  teacher  should 
utilize  this  interest  in  organized  activity.  This  is  the 
period  when  girls  are  apt  to  worry  over  their  prob- 
lems and  to  have  little  patience  with  the  minute, 
exact,  methodical.  It  is  also  the  period  of  certain 
emotional  development,  and  consequently  it  often 
happens  that  the  young  teacher  with  a  happy, 
spontaneous  nature  is  more  apt  to  be  successful 
vwith  girls  of  high  school  age  than  an  older  person 
perhaps  better  trained  and  more  experienced  in 
technique.  This  is  the  period  of  storm  and  stress, 
of  excitements,  ambitions,  hopes — religious  doubts 
and  introspections,  sex  impulses,  and  the  adoration 
of  teachers  and  friends.  All  these  impulses  must  be 
understood  by  the  domestic-art  teacher  if  she  will 
deal  wisely  with  the  girls  under  her  care.  It  is  the 
period  of  great  responsiveness  to  all  stimuli  whether 
right  or  wrong,  the  period  of  development  of  self- 
conceit  and  superior  airs,  and  that  welcomes  new, 
radical,  or  even  revolutionary  thoughts.  There  can 


32  DOMESTIC   ART 

be  no  more  important  field  than  this  for  the  domestic- 
art  teacher,  and  comparatively  few  teachers  plan 
with  foresight  to  make  the  lessons  with  the  girls  of 
this  age  really  tell.  It  is  the  time  when  true  impres- 
sions can  be  made  and  a  responsibility  and  social 
conscience  awakened  that  will  have  a  lasting  value. 
The  close  contact  of  the  domestic-art  teacher  makes 
it  possible  for  her  to  give  instruction  which  will 
train  for  character  and  the  development  of  intelli- 
gent and  independent  women  who  will  be  the  back- 
bone and  safeguard  of  our  nation. 

There  will  probably  be  many  discouragements  for 
the  teacher  during  this  period.  It  will  be  necessary 
to  have  faith  and  to  await  results  which  may  be  long 
in  appearing.  Mr.  Stanley  Hall  says  that  at  this 
period  the  soul  is  so  sensitized  that  nothing  is  lost. 
It  is  the  period  of  insight  and  receptivity — and  the 
harvest  will  surely  come — the  mental  life  is  becoming 
organized  and  permanently  fixed  and  there  is  a  power 
of  apprehension  and  appreciation  which  is  far  beyond 
the  ability  of  the  girl  of  this  period  to  express. 

It  is  a  big  problem  and  one  of  great  responsibility 
for  the  teacher  of  domestic  art  to  know  when  and 
where  to  help  to  strengthen,  to  direct  or  inhibit  the 
various  impulses  of  this  critical  period  of  womanhood. 


THE  NECESSITY  FOR   STUDY  OF   THE  PUPIL       33 

REFERENCES  FOR  STUDY 

"The  Child  and  the  Curriculum,"  Dewey. 
"The  Educative  Process,"  Bagley. 
"Notes  on  Child  Study,"  Thorndike. 
"Adolescence,"  G.  S.  Hall. 
"The  Meaning  of  Education,"  Butler. 
"School  and  Society,"  Dewey. 


CHAPTER  IV 

PROBLEMS   CONNECTED   WITH   THE   PRESENTA- 
TATION  OF  DOMESTIC-ART  SUBJECTS 

IT  has  been  said  that  teachers  are  born,  not  made. 
Not  every  one  who  understands  the  technical  work 
of  the  field  of  domestic  art  is  able  to  present  it- 
even  in  some  cases  after  much  training.  Neverthe- 
less a  conscientious  study  of  the  child  or  person  to 
be  taught  and  an  intelligent  understanding  of  the 
best  methods  of  presentation  of  that  subject-matter 
can  but  produce  decidedly  better  results.  As  we 
have  noted,  the  mass  of  subject-matter  which  we  call 
domestic  art  is  so  very  broad  that  it  is  not  possible 
to  present  all  the  phases  of  it  to  the  children  in  the 
elementary  or  high  schools.  Special  discussions  of 
curricula  for  various  types  of  schools  will  follow,  in 
other  chapters,  but  it  is  the  purpose  of  this  to  sug- 
gest the  best  way  to  present  different  phases  of  the 
domestic-art  work  and  to  leave  the  selection  of 
subjects  for  later  discussion.  One  must  keep  con- 
stantly in  mind  the  person  or  child  to  be  taught, 

34 


PRESENTATION    OF   SUBJECTS  35 

and  the  subject-matter  and  method  should  be  that 
which  will  be  of  most  value  ethically,  practically, 
and  intellectually  to  the  pupil. 

The  writer  has  visited  many  domestic-art  classes 

and  has  found  poorer  presentation  of  the  subjects 

than  in  almost  any  other  field  of  work. 

Individual 

versus  class  Very  often  the  teacher  is  not  prepared 
and  suggests  to  the  class  that  they  "go 
on  with  their  work."  This  means  that  the  teacher 
will  often  pass  among  her  pupils  and  instruct  indi- 
vidually, but  gives  no  ^nought  or  time  to  class  dis- 
cussions, in  which  the  uncertain  things  are  niade 
plain  and  a  real  thought  content  developed.  Class 
discussion  previous  to  beginning  work  is  an  economy 
of  time.  It  enables  the  pupils  to  begin  together  and 
many  of  them  to  proceed  without  much  help  from 
the  teacher.  This  is  of  much  assistance  if  the  class 
numbers  forty  or  fifty,  for  then  it  is  a  physical  impos- 
sibility for  the  teacher  to  direct  each  worker.  When 
it  so  happens  that  the  pupils  are  working  on  under- 
garments or  dresses,  individual  instruction  is  neces- 
sary and  the  classes  are  usually  smaller,  but  even  then 
there  should  be  supplementary  talks,  or  questions  in 
connection  with  the  work,  of  vital  importance  to  all 
and  that  will  give  the  work  a  real  thought  content. 


36  DOMESTIC  ART 

No  teacher  of  domestic  art,  or  any  subject  in  fact, 
should  approach  her  class  without  some  definite  plan 
The  teacher's  of  action  in  mind.  Much  time  is  wasted 

preparation.         jn  this  fldd  Qf  teaching  because  of  lack 

of  clearly  defined  ideas  on  the  part  of  the  teacher, 
and  lessons  are  conducted  in  a  haphazard  way 
which  could  have  been  brought  to  the  point  had 
time  been  given  to  thoughtful  preparation.  A 
special  chapter  will  be  devoted  to  the  subject  of 
lesson  planning  and  the  thought  involved  in  correct 
presentation  of  this  subject. 

Every  detail  of  preparation  in  the  way  of  materials 
for  illustration  should  be  arranged  before  the  hour 
for  the  lesson  arrives.  The  failure  to  have  at  hand 
a  demonstration  model  or  tools  may  often  mar  the 
effect  of  an  otherwise  good  lesson. 

There  are  many  children  %who  see  things  with 
their  eyes  only  and  to  whom  a  spoken  word  in  rela- 
niustration  tion  to  direction  means  very  little.  For 
of  lessons.  guch  the  actual  demonstration  on  the 

frame  or  cloth  is  of  greatest  value.  It  is  not  neces- 
sary to  have  a  regular  store  frame — a  piece  of  un- 
bleached muslin  attached  to  the  blackboard  frame 
with  thumb  tacks  will  answer  every  purpose.  A 
large  darning  needle  and  red  or  black  Germantown 


PRESENTATION   OF   SUBJECTS  37 

yarn  complete  the  outfit.  The  stitches  should  be 
large  enough  for  all  to  see  without  difficulty.  The 
blackboard  is  also  a  valuable  adjunct  and  should 
supplement  the  demonstration  frame.  The  teacher 
of  domestic  art  should  be  ready  to  illustrate  as  she 
talks  and  to  represent  the  stitches  with  needle  in 
position  if  it  is  a  sewing  lesson,  or  to  outline  the 
points  made  in  discussion  of  other  subjects.  Lessons 
may  also  be  illustrated  by  pictures,  when  talks  on 
textile  and  household  art  subjects  are  given,  and  by 
collections  of  other  exhibits  when  materials,  etc., 
may  have  been  discussed.  Trips  to  museums  sup- 
plement these  as  another  avenue  of  illustration.  It  is 
always  well  to  have  illustrations  of  completed  articles 
in  which  the  stitch  or  lesson  to  be  taught  is  plainly 
emphasized  so  that  additional  application  for  use 
may  be  really  seen  as  well  as  discussed  in  class. 
Every  complete  domestic-art  laboratory  should  have 
some  cases  for  illustrations,  not  only  of  completed 
articles  that  have  been  made  in  class,  but  for  studies 
of  ethnological  subjects  in  connection  with  the  field 
of  domestic  art.  Basketry,  pottery,  weaving,  primi- 
tive spindles  and  looms,  laces,  embroideries,  study 
of  historic  costume,  all  help  to  illustrate  the  talks 
and  interest  the  pupils  in  this  field  of  work.  An 


38  DOMESTIC  ART 

industrial  exhibit  is  also  of  great  value,  showing 
the  processes  of  thread-making,  needles,  buttons, 
and  preparation  of  all  the  raw  textile  fibres.  Some 
of  these  may  be  obtained  from  the  United  States 
Government,  and  there  are  also  certain  textile  manu- 
facturers that  are  willing  to  furnish  well-mounted 
boxes  of  specimens  for  a  small  consideration.  Col- 
lections of  materials,  laces,  muslins,  etc.,  with  their 
respective  values,  names,  and  prices,  will  also  be 
found  of  great  assistance. 

The  domestic-art  teacher  should  be  constantly  on 
the  lookout  for  pictures  and  clippings  which  will 
assist  her  in  illustration.  These  may  be  mounted, 
filed,  catalogued,  and  kept  for  reference,  and  are 
almost  invaluable.  The  current  magazines  furnish 
much  material.  Inexpensive  pictures  are  often  found 
relating  to  subjects  in  this  field  and  may  be  framed 
and  hung  in  the  laboratory  if  a  special  room  is 
devoted  to  this  work.  The  bulletin-board  is  of  much 
value  in  this  connection  for  clippings  and  pictures; 
mottoes  and  suggestions  may  be  mounted  tempora- 
rily there.  This  may  all  be  in  charge  of  the  stu- 
dents from  week  to  week,  for  change  and  filing. 

The  relation  of  the  textile  field  to  the  elementary 
or  high  school  curriculum  will  be  shown  later  in 


PRESENTATION  OF  SUBJECTS  39 

discussing  courses  of  study,  but  certain  hints  for 
presentation  may  be  given  here.  There  are  so 
suggestions  many  phases  of  this  work  that  the  op- 
for  the  presen-  portunity  js  almost  limitless.  Weaving 

tation  of  tex-  ' 

tile  work.  may  be  given  on  small  looms  as  individ- 
ual problems  in  the  lower  grades  of  the  elementary 
school  and  is  often  begun  in  the  kindergarten. 
Dyeing  of  materials  may  be  done  in  this  connection. 
In  the  fourth  or  fifth  grades  weaving  may  be  given  on 
individual  looms  and  the  results  joined,  forming  a 
rug  or  textile  of  value  in  house-furnishing  problems. 
Later  in  high  school,  or  even  before,  opportunity 
may  be  given  for  co-operative  problems  on  the 
colonial  type  of  loom.  Weaving  is  often  "overdone," 
especially  in  the  lower  grades.  As  one  line  of  indus- 
trial study  it  is  of  interest  and  value,  but  little  chil- 
dren need  variety  of  work  and  the  subjects  are  so 
numerous  and  can  with  foresight  be  so  grouped  as 
to  develop  thought  in  relation  to  the  various  fields  of 
industry  that  there  is  no  excuse  for  confining  the 
work  to  this  one  subject.  The  reason  is  apparently 
lack  of  willingness  on  the  part  of  the  teacher  to 
exert  herself  or  an  absence  of  originality  in  her 
scheme  of  work.  Charts  will  be  found  of  much 
value  in  teaching  textile  work.  These  may  represent 


40  DOMESTIC  ART 

many  phases  of  textile  study  and  may  be  made  by 
every  child  in  the  class  and  the  discussions  given  as 
class  lessons.  Comparison  of  the  four  leading  tex- 
tiles makes  an  interesting  study.  Such  charts  may  be 
used  as  early  as  the  third  grade,  and  supplementary 
talks  make  them  of  great  value.  These  may  show 
the  four  samples  pasted  on  a  card  with  the  names 
written  above  each.  Samples  of  yarn  may  be  pasted 
below  the  cloth  for  comparison. 

Children  are  interested  in  cutting  out  paper  dolls 
from  magazines.  A  picture  of  a  girl  or  boy  may  be 
mounted  on  the  chart  or  card,  and  lists  of  the  four 
textiles  in  which  she  is  presumably  dressed  written 
in  the  four  corners  of  the  card.  Opposite  each  gar- 
ment named  may  be  pasted  a  sample.  These  will 
show  the  complete  outfit  of  the  child.  The  children 
should  be  free  to  select  their  samples  from  boxes  of 
scraps  arranged  by  the  teacher  in  convenient  places. 
Charts  illustrating  the  problem  of  dress  and  its  cost 
are  also  helpful.  A  teacher  with  ingenuity  may 
insert  any  variety  of  these  problems.  The  field  is 
rich  for  showing  the  processes  of  modern  manufact- 
ure, the  properties,  dyeing,  cleansing,  and  shrinking 
of  materials. 

Books  of  textile  samples  will  be  found  of  much 


PRESENTATION   OF   SUBJECTS  41 

help  in  either  elementary  or  high  school.  The  teacher 
may  supply  books  for  each  textile  and  plan  the  clas- 
sification. The  samples,  with  widths  and  prices,  may 
be  mounted  by  the  children  as  contributed. 

In  connection  with  history  and  geography  the 
interest  in  textile  work  will  be  much  increased  by 
study  and  presentation  by  the  children  of  informal 
lectures  on  the  evolution  of  the  various  industries 
connected  with  clothing  and  shelter.  If  these  are 
supplemented  with  a  stereopticon,  the  interest  of  the 
little  lecturers  knows  no  bounds. 

Of  late  years  there  has  been  much  discussion  in 

normal  domestic-art  circles  as  to  the  use  of  drafting 

in  elementary  and  high  schools.     The 

The  use  of 

drafting  and      simple  drafting  of  shirtwaist,  kimono, 

patterns.  .  .  rj 

and  small  petticoat  is  often  given  in 
the  elementary  school,  and  very  often  in  the  high 
school  one  finds  quite  elaborate  systems  being  used. 
The  writer  believes  that  there  is  a  certain  value 
in  it  all,  but  as  a  rule  it  is  very  slight.  The  be- 
ginning of  this  line  of  work  and  thought  may  be 
as  early  as  the  fourth  or  fifth  grade  of  the  elementary 
school,  where  free-hand  cutting  of  paper  dolls' 
clothes  gives  an  insight  in  a  simple  way  into  the 
relation  between  line  and  figure.  This  is  of  great 


42  DOMESTIC  ART 

value  to  the  child.  The  work  is  free,  never  stereo- 
typed, and  these  small  paper  garments  may  be  basted 
together  or  real  material  made  into  garments  using 
the  paper  patterns.  There  is  so  much  to  be  crowded 
info  the  domestic-art  work  of  the  elementary  school 
that  the  writer  believes  it  much  better  in  nearly 
every  locality  and  under  varying  conditions  for  the 
use  of  commercial  patterns  to  be  taught  in  the 
upper  grades  rather  than  any  form  of  drafting.  If 
girls  can  be  taught  to  cut  out  garments  easily  and 
correctly  and  make  simple  alterations  of  patterns, 
much  has  been  gained.  In  the  ordinary  high  school, 
either  manual  training,  or  classical,  where  some 
domestic-art  work  is  given,  some  simple  drafting  and 
pattern  modelling  in  crinoline  is  advisable.  The 
simple  modelling  should  precede  the  drafting,  so  that 
the  lines  of  the  pattern  in  relation  to  figure  may  be 
learned.  With  these  relationships  in  mind,  drafting 
will  be  quite  intelligible  and  enables  the  girl  to  put 
it  to  practical  use  later.  If  this  work  is  combined 
the  student  will  have  an  excellent  idea  of  the  mak- 
ing of  real  patterns  and  be  able  to  originate  and 
plan  for  simple  gowns  in  crinoline  as  a  pattern, 
thus  learning  an  additional  method  and  one  which  is 
more  full  and  natural. 


PRESENTATION   OF   SUBJECTS  43 

In  technical  and  trade  schools  it  is  often  advisable 
that  the  students  study  some  regular  system  of 
drafting  and  have  quite  a  good  deal  of  experience  in 
making  patterns  by  both  of  the  above  methods. 
This  work  should  be  more  advanced  than  that 
given  in  the  other  types  of  secondary  schools  men- 
tioned. 

The  greatest  error  in  the  teaching  of  drafting  is 

the   stereotyped   dictation   method   by  which   it   is 

often  presented.     This  may  not  be  an 

Errors  in 

teaching  draft-  error  where  older  students  with  limited 

ing  of  patterns.  ..  ,  , 

time  and  familiar  with  such  work  are 
receiving  instruction,  but  in  either  elementary  or 
secondary  schools  where  the  training  of  the  girls  is 
being  considered  and  drafting  is  being  presented  for 
the  first  time  this  method  of  approach  is  certainly 
wrong.  The  children  may  actually  work  it  out  as 
they  would  a  puzzle,  but  there  is  no  real  connection 
of  line  with  the  idea  of  human  form  and  the  girls 
are  not  being  taught  to  think  for  themselves.  This 
criticism  is  especially  true  of  high  school  teaching. 
It  is  possible,  however,  by  a  simple  developmental 
method  to  make  the  girls  think,  and  to  have  them 
understand  before  they  begin  to  draft  the  necessity 
of  certain  lines,  the  relation  of  one  line  to  another, 


44  DOMESTIC  ART 

their  relation  to  the  human  form,  and  the  possibili- 
ties of  change  to  suit  the  different  figures  and  styles. 
The  value  of  crinoline  modelling  as  a  prerequisite 
will  be  seen.  Even  unbleached  muslin  may  be  used 
in  this  connection  to  advantage,  and  the  modelling 
done  on  one  another  in  class.  This  method  of 
presentation  may  be  accomplished  by  questioning 
on  the  part  of  the  teacher,  who  must  be  alert  and 
skilful  in  order  to  present  her  lesson  successfully  in 
this  way.  There  is  no  comparison  as  far  as  results 
are  concerned,  for  the  girls  gain  a  thorough  mastery 
of  the  subject  because  it  is  the  result  of  their  own 
thought  and  can  be  used  later  instead  of  filed  in 
note-books. 

It  is  often  a  debatable  question  whether  machine 
work  should  be  given  to  girls  between  ten  and  fifteen 
Machine  work  vears  °f  age-  This  the  writer  feels  must 
m  schools.  be  left  t()  the  Decision  of  the  teacher  of 

each  group.  If  the  teacher  of  domestic  art  knows 
that  the  girls  in  her  classes  in  the  elementary  school 
are  so  conditioned  that  they  must  go  to  work 
often  before  the  work  of  the  grades  is  finished,  she 
will  feel  the  necessity  of  introducing  machine  work 
early  in  order  that  this  knowledge,  which  is  of  so 
much  help,  may  be  gained  before  the  girl  leaves 


PRESENTATION   OF   SUBJECTS  45 

school.  The  teacher  must  be  the  judge  as  to  whether 
there  is  any  physical  reason  why  a  girl  should  not 
run  the  machine.  As  'a  rule,  the  short  period  de- 
voted to  this  kind  of  work  is  quite  harmless  and  the 
girls  thoroughly  enjoy  it.  In  trade  schools  where 
the  girls  may  be  more  closely  confined  at  this  kind  of 
work,  the  teacher  should  be  more  careful  and  watch- 
ful. As  a  rule,  the  high  school  is  the  place  where  the 
use  of  machines  should  be  begun,  but  in  many 
localities  it  is  necessary  to  begin  it  as  early  as  the 
sixth  grade.  If  the  girls  of  a  certain  school  in  a  cer- 
tain locality  cannot  remain  after  fourteen  years  of 
age,  this  work  should  be  included  as  one  of  the 
domestic-art  subjects  of  value  for  the  school  in  this 
locality  and  should  be  considered  by  the  domestic- 
art  teacher  as  subject-matter  for  her  consideration 
and  selection. 

Machine  work  should  be  begun  on  simple  articles 
which  will  give  practice  in  straight  stitching,  and  use 
of  the  simple  attachments,  before  more  advanced 
garment-making  is  done.  Aprons,  bags,  cases  of 
various  kinds,  covers,  pillow-cases,  etc.,  are  all 
simple  and  offer  opportunity  for  practice. 

The  writer  has  noticed  much  time  wasted  in 
classes  doing  machine  work.  This  is  nearly  always 


46  DOMESTIC   ART 

due  to  lack  of  thought  and  good  management  on  the 
part  of  the  teacher.  She  should  plan  carefully  to 
have  the  machines  always  in  use  and  so  arrange 
that  some  of  the  class  are  sewing  by  hand  in  prepara- 
tion for  machine  work  while  others  are  at  the 
machines.  An  exchange  can  be  made  as  occasion 
arises,  and  in  this  way  no  time  is  lost. 

There  is  a  difference  of  opinion  between  teachers 
as  to  the  advisability  of  using  single-  or  double- 
thread  machines  with  beginners.  The  writer  finds 
the  single  thread  of  value  during  the  early  process  of 
learning  because  it  is  easily  ripped,  but  difficult  to 
handle  because  of  the  necessity  for  stitching  on  the 
right  side  of  the  garment.  As  it  is  not  possible  to 
have  two  sets  of  machines,  the  writer  believes  that  a 
light-running  double-thread  machine  will  prove  the 
most  satisfactory  in  the  long  run. 

Millinery  and  embroidery  are  subjects  which  may 
be  taught  in  either  the  elementary  or  high  school 
Miiimery  and  and  may  be  continued  in  trade  or 
embroidery.  technical  schools  or  classes.  The  work 
given  in  the  grades  must  be  quite  elementary  in 
character.  The  children  may  buy  their  own  frames 
or  hats  to  be  trimmed,  or  even  prepare  them  from 
braided  raffia.  Simple  lessons  in  bow-making  may 


PRESENTATION   OF   SUBJECTS  4? 

also  be  given.  The  domestic-art  teacher  of  each 
school,  however,  must  decide  whether  there  is  time 
to  include  millinery  in  her  course  and  whether  it 
will  be  of  value  to  her  group  of  girls  to  have  it, 
rather  than  some  other  line  of  domestic-art  work. 
Expert  millinery  and  trimming  should  not  be  ex- 
pected from  young  girls.  Even  in  trade  and  tech- 
nical schools  the  trimming  is  an  art  which  may  be 
demonstrated  by  an  expert  trimmer,  but  it  seldom 
happens  that  girls  under  twenty  are  proficient  in 
this  line  or  have  learned  the  fundamental  technique 
which  would  enable  them  to  be  good  trimmers. 
This  branch  of  the  work  requires  experts  where 
the  work  is  done  for  trade  purposes;  it  seems 
almost  innate  and  can  seldom  be  taught. 

The  high  school  work  in  millinery  may  include  the 
making  and  covering  of  all  kinds  of  hats;  frame- 
making,  trimming,  and  renovating.  The  lessons 
should  be  illustrated  by  blackboard  drawings,  pict- 
ures from  magazines,  and  demonstrations.  Visits 
to  shops  are  of  value  in  this  connection  for  study  of 
styles.  The  type  of  school  will  determine  how  much 
of  this  work  should  be  given  and  whether  this  or 
some  other  domestic-art  subject  is  of  greatest  value 
to  the  girl  in  the  limited  time  allowed. 


48  DOMESTIC  ART 

Simple  embroidery  may  also  be  given  in  the 
grades.  In  the  lower  grades  this  may  be  in  the 
use  of  overcasting,  blanket  stitch,  and  others,  as  a 
means  of  decoration  on  coarse  burlap  pillows,  table 
covers,  etc.;  or  in  the  upper  grades,  outline,  cross, 
chain,  Kensington,  darning,  satin  stitch  may  all  be 
applied  on  articles  which  will  be  of  interest  to  the 
pupils.  Design  work  given  by  the  art  instructor 
should  be  closely  in  touch  here,  as  well  as  in  high 
school,  where  more  advanced  embroidery  may  be 
given  if  time  permits  and  it  seems  of  most  worth 
to  the  group  of  girls  considered.  There  is  always 
interest  in  this  class  of  work,  and  it  may  be  presented 
all  along  the  way  either  as  supplementary  work  or 
to  introduce  variety  into  the  course.  Needlebook 
covers,  pin-cushions,  tray  covers,  table  scarfs,  pil- 
low tops,  embroidery  of  table  linen  and  towels,  are 
simply  the  beginning  of  a  long  list.  In  high  school- 
lingerie  hats,  shirtwaists,  collars,  ties,  stocks,  gradu- 
ating gowns,  may  be  ornamented  with  simple  em- 
broidery. The  demonstration  frame  will  be  found 
of  use  in  illustrating  the  various  stitches.  It  is  well 
for  the  teacher  to  collect  samples  of  embroidery  and 
to  have  as  many  articles  as  possible  showing  the 
application. 


PRESENTATION   OF   SUBJECTS  49 

It  is  not  necessary  to  wait  until  pupils  are  of  high 

school  age  before  introducing  problems  in  furnishing 

and  decoration.     As  early  as  the  first 

Problems  in 

household         grade,  it  is  possible  to  begin  with  simple 

furnishings. 

suggestions  in  the  relation  of  line  to 
space,  color  combinations,  wall  coverings,  etc.,  ap- 
plied to  the  fitting  up  of  small  houses  or  rooms 
made  from  soap-boxes,  if  nothing  else  is  available. 

A  very  interesting  problem  is  one  in  which  the 
whole  elementary  school  may  have  a  share.  A  room 
should  be  chosen,  if  available,  and  furnished  by  the 
different  grades.  Rugs  may  be  made  by  some— 
co-operatively — couch  cover,  window  curtains — sim- 
ple hangings,  pillows,  table  covers,  and  baskets,  etc., 
may  be  added  by  different  classes.  If  space  allows 
and  a  suite  of  rooms  can  be  furnished  and  actually 
used  by  instructors  or  others,  it  will  be  of  inestimable 
value. 

In  many  towns  or  cities  by  co-operating  with  large 
departmental  stores  or  even  smaller  ones  it  may  be 
possible  to  secure  loan  exhibits  of  furniture,  hang- 
ings, or  house  furnishings  which  if  well  arranged  Is' 
will  be  of  great  value  to  the  pupils.  In  some  schools 
simple  lessons  in  upholstery  may  be  given  with 
excellent  results.  Talks  on  hygienic  furnishing 


50  DOMESTIC  ART 

should  accompany  the  working  out  of  all  these 
problems.  Charts  illustrating  interiors  make  an 
interesting  variation  of  domestic-art  work.  Chairs, 
tables,  etc.,  may  be  cut  from  catalogues  and  ar- 
ranged on  cardboards.  Color  schemes  of  interiors 
may  be  furnished  and  plans  made  for  the  wall,  floor, 
and  covering  of  ceiling.  With  older  girls  in  high 
school  it  is  possible  to  sketch  interiors  and  to  color 
them  with  water-colors.  It  is  often  possible  to  secure 
drummers'  sample  designs  for  furniture,  when  some- 
what old-fashioned,  and  these  may  be  utilized  in  the 
chart  work.  The  furniture  houses  are  quite  willing 
to  dispose  of  them.  A  model  suite  of  rooms  is  of 
great  assistance  in  a  high  school,  but  it  is  to  be 
hoped  that  all  the  interiors  of  the  high  school  class- 
rooms, halls,  and  offices  may  be  as  attractive  as 
possible.  The  proper  placing  of  pictures,  casts,  and 
plants  cannot  help  having  an  effect  on  the  general 
atmosphere  of  the  school.  Loan  exhibits  of  pictures, 
school  work,  etc.,  are  also  of  help.  The  high  school 
course  in  house  furnishing  may  be  made  very  inter- 
esting by  interspersing  the  talks  with  hand-work, 
either  the  making  of  charts  and  color  schemes  as  sug- 
gested or  the  weaving  and  embroidering  of  pillows, 
covers,  or  other  house  furnishings.  The  importance 


PRESENTATION    OF   SUBJECTS  51 

of  the  simplicity  of  furnishing,  the  planning  with 

reference  to  use,  adaptability,  and  economy  of  time, 

energy,  and  money,  the  true  home  atmosphere  and 

the  relation  of  furnishing  to  it  should  all  be  brought 

out  in  the  talks  or  discussions.     Books  and  pictures 

will  be  found  of  much  help  in  a  course  of  this  kind. 

Lessons  in  design  should  go  hand  in  hand  with 

domestic-art  work,  and  all  teachers  of  domestic  art 

should  have  a  good  course  in  design  be- 

Design  as  part 

of  domestic  yond  whatever  study  of  art  and  drawing 
general  education  may  have  provided. 
If  there  is  an  art  instructor  in  the  school,  the  do- 
mestic-art teacher  should  have  her  co-operation 
and  the  two  work  together  in  order  that  unity  of 
action  may  be  the  result.  Designs  for  all  the 
domestic-art  problems  may  be  worked  out  in  this 
way.  Paper  dolls  and  their  coloring,  dressing,  sim- 
ple interiors — all  may  come  under  the  direction  of 
the  art  supervisor  and  in  the  elementary  as  well  as 
high  school  should  go  hand  in  hand  with  domestic- 
art  problems  and  the  two  be  worked  out  in  harmony. 
The  interest  in  the  art  work  is  much  more  keen  when 
this  definite  relationship  is  seen  and  understood. 

One  of  the  most  important  subjects  for  growing 
girls  is  a  knowledge  and  close  acquaintance  with  the 


52  DOMESTIC  ART 

laws  governing  health.     The  influence   of    proper 
food  and  clothing  on  health   cannot   be  overesti- 
mated.    It  is  part  of  the  domestic-art 

Repairing  and 

hygiene  of         teacher' s  privilege  to  give  talks  as  sup- 

clothing  as 

part  of  this        plementary   work    while    teaching  the 

field  of  work.  -,      .  P  .  ,  ,   c    . 

technique  of  sewing,  or  to  have  definite 
periods  devoted  to  the  discussion  of  this  subject. 
This  work  should  be  given  in  a  very  simple  way  in 
the  elementary  school,  but  in  the  secondary  schools 
tests  in  relation  to  materials,  their  strength,  warmth, 
texture,  shrinkage,  and  cleanliness,  may  be  worked 
out  in  the  laboratory  and  be  of  particular  value. 
The  talks  for  either  elementary  or  secondary  work 
should  cover  such  subjects  as  the  following : — The 
care  of  the  body,  cleanliness  and  use  of  underwear, 
the  brushing  of  garments,  care  of  the  feet,  proper 
footwear,  dressing  of  the  hair,  proper  hats,  the 
storage  of  clothing,  etc.;  many  of  these  may  be 
illustrated  by  demonstrations. 

The  question  of  how  and  when  to  teach  repairing 
is  a  much  disputed  one.  As  a  rule,  in  many  schools 
the  subject  is  disliked  by  the  girls  and  there  is  a  loss 
of  interest  when  repair  lessons  are  announced.  This 
lack  of  interest  need  not  necessarily  follow,  and  the 
success  of  such  work  will  depend  on  the  ingenuity, 


PRESENTATION    OF   SUBJECTS  53 

skill,  and  tact  of  the  teacher.  Perhaps  a  clever  way 
to  present  the  repair  work  is  between  problems  of 
greater  interest — just  before  Christmas  gifts  or  some 
other  application  of  vital  importance.  Simple  patch- 
ing, darning  of  stockings,  and  darning  of  simple 
rents  in  woollen  or  linen  materials  may  be  given  in 
the  fifth,  sixth,  seventh,  or  eighth  grades.  If  pos- 
sible it  is  best  to  begin  repair  at  once  on  the  stocking 
or  garment,  but'  if  such  things  are  not  available 
scraps  of  stockinet  or  cashmere  must  suffice.  By 
canvassing  among  the  teachers  of  a  school  or  impress- 
ing the  children  with  the  necessity  of  bringing  the 
necessary  stockings  from  home  it  is  quite  possible  to 
have  a  direct  application  of  the  repairing.  Repair- 
ing which  necessitates  a  knowledge  of  the  construc- 
tion of  garments  is  a  part  of  high  school  work,  and 
rebinding  of  skirts,  replacing  worn  collars  or  cuffs, 
patching,  replacing  parts  of  worn  sleeves,  are  too  dif- 
ficult to  be  given  to  children  of  elementary  school  age, 
for  they  require  good  judgment,  skill,  and  technical 
knowledge  of  garment -making  for  proper  execution. 
The  yearly  festivals  are  always  of  interest  to  the 
Christmas  children,  and  the  more  nearly  it  is  pos- 
sible for  the  domestic-art  teacher  to  re- 
late her  work  to  their  life  interests,  the  more  effective 


54  DOMESTIC  ART 

will  be  the  results.  Simple  Christmas  gifts  may  be 
prepared  by  children  of  every  grade.  They  should 
be  simple,  appropriate,  artistic,  and  adapted  to  the 
use  of  the  little  giver.  The  time  devoted  to  the  mak- 
ing of  these  may  be  a  part  of  the  regular  sewing  pro- 
gramme each  year,  or  it  may  be  given  as  extra  work 
for  those  who  finish  ahead  of  their  class-mates. 

The  Christmas  season  is  often  a  happy  time  for 
informal  exhibits  of  the  work  of  the  children;  the 
parents  may  be  invited,  and  a  real  social  feature 
made  of  this  part  of  the  work.  The  annual  exhibit 
may  be  more  formal,  but  the  Christmas  party  may 
show  the  progress  of  the  fall  term  of  work  and  be 
an  incentive  to  many  of  the  children.  The  rooms 
and  blackboards  may  be  decorated  by  the  children, 
and  the  domestic-art  laboratory  may  become  a  centre 
of  school  interest  and  spirit".  If  a  special  room  is  not 
set  aside  for  this  work,  then  the  principal  of  the  school 
may  be  willing  to  designate  a  certain  room  or  space 
for  this  particular  feature  of  the  life  of  the  school. 

"A  place  for  everything  and  everything  in  its 
place"  is  a  very  good  general  rule 

Care  of  sup- 

plies  saves       with  which  to  start.    The  work  bags  or 
boxes  of  the  children  should  be  care- 
fully labelled  and  kept   in  a  conveniently  located 


PRESENTATION   OF   SUBJECTS  55 

place,  if  possible.  Extra  supplies  and  materials 
should  be  so  classified  and  labelled  that  they  may  be 
found  with  ease.  A  system  of  noting  when  supplies 
are  low  will  guard  against  a  general  skirmishing 
about  at  the  eleventh  hour  for  a  particular  kind  of 
machine  needle  or  a  certain  number  of  thread,  and 
the  consequent  loss  of  time  involved. 

If  the  teacher  has  a  special  room  for  her  work, 
she  should  have  the  supplies  most  often  used  and 
such  materials  as  she  may  need  for  demonstration 
conveniently  at  hand.  If  as  supervisor  she  must 
travel  from  room  to  room  in  the  school,  a  box  for  her 
use  may  be  kept  in  each  room,  or  one  supplied  with 
the  few  things  she  is  most  likely  to  need  carried  from 
class  to  class.  The  demonstration  cloth  mentioned 
above  will  be  found  an  almost  indispensable  addi- 
tion to  this  box  for  the  quick  demonstration  of  the 
method  of  making  stitches.  This  cloth  may  be 
mounted  in  the  frames  for  such  purpose  or  easily 
adjusted  with  thumb  tacks  to  the  wooden  frame  of 
a  wall  map  and  the  height  so  regulated  for  the  use 
of  children  as  well  as  teacher.  In  demonstrating  on 
this  cloth  the  stitches  should  be  very  large  so  the 
children  at  the  back  of  the  room  may  have  no  diffi- 
culty in  seeing.  This  is  of  help,  for  the  teacher  is 


56  DOMESTIC  ART 

spared  the  necessity  of  giving  so  much  individual 
attention  later  and  time  is  thus  saved  for  other  more 
important  work. 

REFERENCES  FOR  STUDY 

"Textiles  and  Clothing,"  Watson. 

"How  We  are  Clothed,"  Chamberlain. 

"A  Sewing  Course,"  Woolman. 

"Occupations  for  Little  Fingers,"  Sage  and  Cooley. 

"School  Needlework,"  Hapgood. 

"Domestic  Art  Review,"  February  and  April,  1909. 


CHAPTER  V 

THE    STUDY    INVOLVED    IN    PLANNING    A 

DOMESTIC-ART    LESSON    OR    SERIES 

OF  LESSONS 

FROM  previous  discussion,  we  have  discovered  that 
it  is  absolutely  essential  for  the  teacher  of  domestic 
art  to  know  thoroughly  her  technical  subjects.  It 
is  also  quite  as  important  for  her  to  understand  the 
child  or  pupil  before  her,  and  it  is  again  as  truly 
necessary  that  she  should  have  some  definite  plan 
of  action  in  mind  when  she  brings  that  subject- 
matter  to  the  pupils,  in  order  that  the  best  results 
may  be  obtained  with  the  greatest  economy  of  time. 

Much  discussion  might  be  given  to  the  best  method 
of  presenting  the  domestic-art  subjects,  but  they  are 
so  varied,  as  well  as  the  conditions  governing  them, 
that  it  must  be  left  to  the  individual  teacher  to 
present  the  type  of  lesson  which  is  best  adapted  to 
the  needs  of  her  pupils,  their  environment,  aims, 
etc.,  as  well  as  the  subject  under  consideration.  It 
may  be  best  to  enumerate  the  various  types,  and 

57 


58  DOMESTIC  ART 

illustrate  later  the  inductive-deductive  form  most 
often  used,  although  not  exclusively,  in  teaching 
domestic  art  in  the  elementary  and  secondary 
schools. 

The  use  of  the  lecture  method  is  well  known.     It 
is  dangerous  if  used  entirely  with  young  people, 

1.  The  lecture    because  the  thinking  is  so  often  done  by 
method.  tne  iecturer  and  there  is  no  self-activity 
on  the  part  of  the  student;  he  does  not  think  and 
learn  through  the  thinking  process.     It  is  unsafe  to 
leave  it  as  lecture  without  further  discussion  and 
illustration.      The  demonstration  method  may  be  a 
part  of  the  lecture  method  and  is  simply  a  better 
kind  of  lecture,  for  it  helps  to  furnish  illustrations 
which  make  for  stronger  impressions. 

Text-books  should  be  used  as  a  side  issue,  or  for 
supplementary  reading  or  study,  never  as  an  end  in 

2.  The  text-      themselves.     They  may  be  used  as  a 
book  method.     Starting_p0int  for  introducing  a  subject, 
or  as  a  supplement  to  the  lesson  presented.     Before 
using  the  text-book,  the  instructor  should  be  sure 
that  the  child  understands  the  questions,  and  then 
he  should  be  left  to  work  out  the  answers  for  him- 
self.    There  is  danger  in  this  kind  of  work,  for  the 
pupil  may  do  too  much  memorizing  and  fail  to  get 


PLANNING  A  DOMESTIC-ART  LESSON  59 

the  full  meaning,  unless  the  teacher  supplements 
this  with  other  methods  of  study. 

The  drill  lessor  is  of  value  because  it  leads  to 
certain  definite  motor  and  intellectual  habits.    A 

3.  The  drill       rea^  drill,  although  a  repetition,  need  not 
lesson.  ke  monotonous,  for  plenty  of  opportu- 
nity may  be  given  for  application.     Facts  should  be 
presented  in  drill  as  we  wish  them  recalled,  the  use 
of  stitches,  etc.     Perfect  work  is  the  result  of  drill, 
and  much  will  depend  on  the  previous  method  of 
association  of  ideas,  as  the  work  is  gone  over  from 
the  old  point  of  view.     The  physical  as  well  as 
mental  side  of  drill  lessons  should  be  of  interest  to 
teachers  of  domestic  art.     Habits  are  formed  by 
trial  and  success  method,  by  imitation,  and  through 
new  ideas  told  the  child.     We  learn  most  through 
imitation  and  this  method  is  not  to  be  despised. 
The  teacher  must  consider  too,  in  this  type  of  lesson, 
the  pleasurable  element,  for  it  is  of  importance  if 
good  habits  are  to  be  formed. 

The  aim  of  the  review  lesson  is  to  recall  old 
habits  that  have  been  formed  by  drill  lessons,  or  by 

4.  Review         reasoning,  but  to  recall  them  perhaps 

from  new  view-points.     This  broadens 
the   outlook.     From   these   new  stand-points  it    is 


60  DOMESTIC  ART 

possible  to  apply  the  knowledge  gained  to  new  situ- 
ations. 

By  deductive  method  is  meant  that  way  of  pre- 
senting a  lesson,  which  gives  first,  the  rule  to  be 
5.  Thededuc-  learned,  illustrates  this  rule,  and  then 

tive  method.        expects    the    pupils    to    make    direct    ap_ 

plication.  The  procedure  is  from  a  general  state- 
ment to  a  particular  application  until  proficiency  is 
gained.  Care  must  be  taken  in  presenting  any  sub- 
ject by  this  method  that  the  class  is  ready  for  the 
step  or  abstract  statement  when  it  is  presented. 
Variations  of  the  rule  cause  thought  and  lead  to  a 
better  understanding,  but  the  discussions  of  the  class 
should  illustrate  why  they  fall  under  different  heads. 
By  the  inductive  method  is  meant  the  general  pro- 
cedure through  reasoning  from  individual  notions  to 
e.  The  indue-  generalizations.  The  reader  is  referred 
tive method.  to  Dr  McMurray's  book  on  "The 
Method  of  the  Recitation,"  where  the  five  formal 
steps  are  discussed  at  length.  By  the  first  step  of 
preparation  is  meant  the  clearing  of  the  ground,  as 
it  were,  for  the  new  truth  to  be  presented.  It  is  the 
conversation  or  questioning  which  leads  to  the  point 
of  contact  between  the  ideas  which  are  the  child's, 
and  the  new  thought  to  be  presented.  The  teacher 


PLANNING   A  DOMESTIC-ART  LESSON  6 1 

is  discovering  what  is  the  apperceptive  mass  of  the 
pupil  before  her  and  how  far  back  she  must  begin  in 
order  to  make  the  new  truth  plain.  There  may  be 
many  avenues  of  approach  in  preparing  to  present 
the  new  lesson.  New  facts  are  not  introduced  in 
this  step,  but  old  experiences  recalled,  which  prepare 
the  pupil's  mind  for  the  new  experiences  to  follow. 
Between  this  and  the  second  step  of  presentation 
there  must  be  close  connection.  The  questions  must 
be  clear,  interesting,  and  definite,  and  such  as  will 
arouse  thought.  They  must  follow,  too,  in  close 
sequence.  There  must  be  a  definite  aim  in  mind 
for  presentation,  an  aim  for  the  child  as  well  as  for 
the  teacher,  whose  aim  is  naturally  broader  but 
includes  that  of  the  child.  The  child's  aim  should 
be  made  plain,  so  that  he  starts  out  with  a  definite 
plan  in  mind.  The  more  realistic  the  teacher  can 
make  this  the  better.  The  teacher  must  keep  in 
mind  also  the  doctrine  of  interest  and  make  the  sub- 
ject vital  and  arousing.  The  illustrative  material 
will  naturally  depend  on  the  subject  and  age  of  the 
child,  but  should  be  varied  so  as  to  appeal  to  as  many 
senses  as  possible.  The  aim  of  the  lesson  to  be 
presented  should  be  constantly  in  the  teacher's  mind, 
and  she  should  not  be  swerved  from  this  purpose 


62  DOMESTIC  ART 

unless  it  seems  wise  in  developing  her  subject  to 
change.  This  may  be  due  to  a  discovery  that  her 
class  is  not  quite  ready  for  the  new  thought.  The 
teacher  should  be  quick,  alert,  and  ready  to  adapt 
herself  to  any  change  in  method  of  procedure  when 
necessary.  The  main  or  " pivotal  questions"  in  the 
new  lesson  should  be  firmly  in  mind,  so  that  should 
there  be  a  digression  it  may  be  possible  to  return 
easily  to  the  course  of  procedure. 

Comparison  need  not  necessarily  be  made  in  each 
lesson,  although  given  as  the  third  formal  step. 
Generalizations  are  comparatively  few  and  very 
often  may  not  be  made  until  after  a  series  of  lessons 
on  a  given  subject  have  been  presented.  By  gen- 
eralization is  meant  the  review  by  comparison  of 
individual  facts,  and  by  picking  out  the  common 
essential  characteristics,  the  formation  of  a  general 
notion  in  relation  to  a  particular  set  of  ideas.  This 
generalization  should  be  given  by  the  pupil  in  his 
own  words  and  then  supplemented  or  rounded  by 
the  teacher  and  text-book.  This  rounds  up  the 
sequence  of  thought,  whether  it  be  in  a  lesson  or 
at  the  end  of  a  series.  The  application  comes  as  a 
test  when  the  new  generalization  or  concept  gained 
is  to  be  used.  This,  too,  may  come  at  the  end  of  a 


.     PLANNING  A   DOMESTIC-ART  LESSON  63 

lesson,  and  often  not  until  the  end  of  a  series,  or 
longer  period  of  study.  In  domestic-art  lessons  the 
step  of  application  of  principles  consumes  much  time. 
The  inductive  method  is  often  objected  to  because 
it  is  too  slow.  Then,  too,  it  cannot  always  be  ap- 
plied effectively  to  all  subjects.  It  is,  however,  one 
of  the  most  useful  methods  of  approach  in  teaching 
domestic-art  subjects  and  is  used  with  much  success 
in  combination  with  the  deductive  approach. 
General  prin-  There  are  certain  general  principles 
methodic  of  metn°d>  however,  for  the  domestic- 
bear  m  mind.  art  teacher  to  bear  in  mind  in  planning 
her  lessons. 

1.  Every  good  lesson  should  be  planned  to  begin 
with  what  is  in  the  child's  mind,  and  proceed  to  the 
unknown,  that  is,  there  should  be  some  preparation 
for  the  second  step  through  use  of  the  old  ideas. 
The  psychologist  calls  this  general  principle  the  law 
of  apperception. 

2.  There  should  be  two  definite  aims.     First,  the 
teacher's,  a  general  topic  to  be  taught,  which  means 
that  the  teacher  knows  much  more  about  her  subject 
than  she  will  present  to  the  class,  but  she  selects  that 
part  of  her  knowledge  which  she  wishes  to  present 
to  the  children  and  adapts  it  to  their  needs.     The 
teacher  has  also  for  her  aim  the  developing  of  right 


64  DOMESTIC  ART 

habits,  intellectual,  motor,  and  moral,  the  cultivation 
of  the  child's  reason,  and  the  training  of  his  powers 
of  appreciation.  So  we  may  say  her  aims  are:  con- 
crete or  practical,  ethical,  and  social.  Second,  the 
pupil's  aim  must  be  definite,  clear,  and  concrete.  If 
the  teacher  would  hold  the  interest  and  attention  of 
her  class,  she  should  make  the  problem  or  aim  as 
attractive  as  possible. 

3.  In  selecting  and  adapting  the  subject-matter  to 
be  taught,  the  teacher  will  bear  in  mind  the  age  of  her 
pupils,  their  previous  training,  and  the  subject  itself. 

4.  Every  good  lesson  plan  should  contain  certain 
pivotal  questions  to  be  used  in  the  lesson.     These 
should  be  logical,  hold  the  attention  of  the  class, 
and  control  the  reasoning  powers  of  the  pupils. 

5.  The  teacher  should  have  in  mind  definite  illus- 
trative material — the  kind,  how  it  is  to  be  used  and 
where  introduced  to  make  the  lesson  effective.     This 
material  will  help  to  centre  the  attention  and  gain 
the  interest  of  the  class. 

6.  The  teacher  in  planning  should  keep  in  mind 
the  self -activity  of  the  child.     This  is  to  be  exercised 
by  him  in  thinking  out  his  questions  and  answers— 
in  thinking  out  his  applications  and  in  giving  phys- 
ical expression  by  doing. 

7.  There  should  be  in  nearly  every  lesson  a  sum- 
mary or  review  of  the  main  points  covered  in  the 
lesson.     This  should  be  short,  concrete,  and  quickly 


PLANNING  A  DOMESTIC-ART  LESSON  65 

accomplished,  focussing  as  it  were  the  thought  of 
the  hour. 

8.  Whenever  possible  there  should  be  some  appli- 
cation of  the  lesson  to  broader  fields. 

We  have  discussed  the  main  points  for  the  do- 
mestic-art teacher  to  keep  in  mind  while  planning, 
but  how  is  this  actually  to  be  done? 

Young 

teachers  Until  one  becomes  quite  experienced  it 

should  write 

out  their  is  wise  to  write  out  each  lesson  quite 

fully.  It  will  more  than  repay  those 
who  make  the  effort.  Planning  in  this  way  is  a 
benefit,  for  it  enables  the  teacher  to  know  if  she 
has  accomplished  all  she  had  in  mind.  The  actual 
lesson  may  be  compared  with  the  plan  step  by  step, 
and  the  points  of  discord  noted.  Very  often  the 
teacher  will  discover  that  she  has  improved  on  her 
plan.  The  self-criticism  of  a  young  teacher  is 
bound  to  count  as  an  element  in  her  success.  If  the 
teacher  must  present  the  same  lesson  to  several  sec- 
tions of  a  class,  it  would  be  wise  to  try  different 
methods  of  approach  in  presenting  the  same  lesson 
and  compare  the  results. 

Before  planning  the  lesson  of  the  day,  the  domestic- 
art  teacher  must  have  clearly  in  mind,  if  possible, 
the  plan  of  action  for  the  year.  This  will  be  dis- 


66  DOMESTIC  ART 

cussed  under  courses  of  study  for  elementary  and 
secondary  schools.     This  yearly  course  will  be  made 

outline  of         UP  °^  a  numker  of  problems  to  be  pre- 
senesofies-       sented.    A  problem  may  need  from  one 

sons  to  pre- 
cede the  daily  to  ten  lessons,  or  more,  for  its  com- 
pletion, and  for  each  one  of  these  day 
lessons  a  definite  plan  should  be  prepared.  Before 
planning  for  each  day  it  is  well  for  the  teacher  to 
make  a  general  scheme,  which  will  give  a  bird's- 
eye  view,  as  it  were,  of  the  lessons  given  to  the 
accomplishment  of  that  problem,  or  to  plan  the 
series  of  lessons  so  that  she  may  be  sure  to  group  all 
the  material  to  be  presented  about  that  series  of 
lessons.  By  this  method  it  is  easy  for  her  to  dis- 
tribute the  supplementary  material  throughout  the 
series,  and  to  keep  constantly  in  mind  the  results 
to  be  accomplished.  It  is  well,  too,  for  the  teacher 
to  know  what  materials  are  to  be  used,  the  amount 
and  cost  per  child,  as  well  as  the  illustrative  materi- 
als, books,  and  supplementary  talks. 

The  following  scheme  for  the  series  of  lessons, 
covering  in  a  general  way  the  work  to  be  accom- 
plished, may  be  suggestive,  as  well  as  the  daily 
lesson  plans  which  follow.  They  will  serve  to 
illustrate  the  points  made  above. 


PLANNING  A  DOMESTIC-ART  LESSON 


67 


STUDENT  PLAN 

OUTLINE  FOR  SERIES  OF  LESSONS 

Subject. — Cooking  apron. 

School. — Elementary  School,  New  York.     Grade. — yth. 

Age. — ii  to  15  years.     Average  age,  13  years. 

Number  of  Lessons. — Nine  approximately — i  hour  each. 

Teachers'  Aims. — 

(Ethical).     To  develop  self-reliance  arising  from  con- 
sciousness of  ability  to  do. 
(Social).     To  emphasize  the  importance  of  cleanliness 

and  economy. 
(Concrete).     To  compass  the  steps  necessary  in   the 

planning  and  making  of  a  cooking  apron. 
Pupils'  Aim. — 
To  cut  and  make  a  cooking  apron  neatly  by  machine. 

Finished  apron. 

Samples  of  material  suitable  for  aprons. 
Samples    of   bleached   and   unbleached 
material. 

f  Hems. 

Stitching. 

Illustrative    {  Samples  showing  j  Gathering. 

Buttonholes. 
Sewed-on  buttons. 


Materials 


To  be  used 


Demonstration  frame. 

Chalk. 

Blackboard. 

Scissors. 
Pencils. 
Thread. 

Sewing  boxes  containing 


Tape  measure. 
Needles. 
Thimbles. 
Pins. 


Apron  lawn  for  the  aprons. 
Buttons. 


68 


DOMESTIC  ART 


Use. 

I.  Discussion  of  choice  of  material  accord-      Suitability. 
ing  to  Durability. 

,  Cost. 
II.  Economical  cutting. 

III.  Bleaching  of  materials. 

IV.  Making  of  apron. 
Subject-  (a)  Laying  hems. 

Matter  1  (&)  Basting. 

(c)  Stitching. 

(d)  Gathering. 

(e)  Stroking  of  gathers. 
(/)  Making  buttonholes. 
(g)  Sewing  on  buttons. 

V.  Kinds  of  aprons. 

VI.  Textile  talks  on  cotton  manufacture. 
Cost  per  child,  25  cents. 

NOTE. — This  subject-matter  to  be  presented  during  course  of  lessons.     Not  in  order 
given,  but  this  ground  to  be  covered  as  seems  best  in  daily  development  of  plans. 


ELEMENTARY  SCHOOL 

DAILY  PLAN.    LESSON  I 
Grade  VII. 

Subject. — Cooking  apron. 

Teachers'  Aim. — To  have  pupils  gain  an  intelligent  and 
economical  use  of  material  through  the  planning  and  cutting 
of  a  cooking  apron. 

Pupils1  Aim. — To  cut  the  apron. 


SUBJECT-MATTER* 


METHOD 

NOTE.— Step  of  preparation.  This 
shows  the  method  of  questioning  and  of 
preparation  for  the  new  facts  to  be  pre- 
sented. It  is  introductory  and  leads  to  new 
work. 


Introduction.  As  you  know,  I  have  been  visit- 

ing, several  days,  in  your  school- 
room.    I  want  to  speak  of  some- 

*  This  subject-matter  column  should  show  the  material  which  the  teacher  has  in  mind 
on  this  subject  as  best  fitted  for  the  children  in  this  particular  class.  This  is  the  first 
lesson  only  on  this  subject  and  shows  only  the  subject-matter  for  the  first  lesson. 


PLANNING  A  DOMESTIC-ART  LESSON 


69 


Reference  to  neatness  of  desks. 


The  kitchen  another  place  where 
neatness  is  necessary. 


Cooking  apron. 


To   help    keep    the    work   and 
clothes  of  the  wearer  clean, 
f  Color.  " 

Material. 

Aprons  differ  in  |  Style  of  making. 
Durability. 
Cost, 
according  to  their  use. 

Materials  suitable  for  cooking 
aprons — lawn,  cambric,  gingham, 
and  calico,  etc. 

An  apron  worn  by  a  person 
cooking  should  always  be  clean. 

White  or  light  colors  are  the 
most  desirable  for  cooking  aprons. 


thing  I  have  noticed  while  there 
and  that  is  the  neatness  of  your 
desks. 

I  was  glad  to  see  it  because  I 
felt  that  girls  who  had  formed  the 
habit  of  keeping  their  desks  neat 
would  be  quite  likely  to  be  neat 
about  other  things,  so  I  hoped 
your  work  in  sewing  would  be  as 
neat  as  your  desks. 

Neatness  is  desirable  in  many 
places.  It  is  very  necessary  in 
the  kitchen. 

When  in  the  kitchen  we  not 
only  want  to  keep  the  kitchen  neat, 
but  want  to  keep  ourselves  neat 
also. 

What  could  we  make  in  the  sew- 
ing class  which  would  help  to  keep 
us  neat  when  at  work  in  the  cook- 
ing class? 

Why  are  aprons  worn  ? 
Are  all  aprons  alike? 
How  do  they  differ? 


Of  what  materials  may  cooking 
aprons  be  made? 


In  what  condition  should  the 
cooking  apron  always  be  ? 

Do  you  think  light  or  dark 
colors  would  be  best  to  use  for 
cooking  aprons? 


7° 


DOMESTIC  ART 


Advantages — 

(1)  They    show    when    soiled, 
therefore  are  not  as  apt  to  be  worn 
after  they  become  soiled. 

(2)  As    white    soils    easily    the 
wearer  will  be  more  careful  about 
her  work. 

(3)  White  is  more  cheerful  and 
looks  better  than  a  dark  color. 

Cooking  aprons  to  be  made  of 
apron  lawn,  which  is  40  inches 
wide  and  costs  n  cents  per  yard. 

Other  suitable  materials,  for 
aprons,  to  be  collected  and  width 
and  price  noted. 


A  pattern  is  not  necessary  for  a 
cooking  apron  when  the  maker  has 
a  model,  or  a  clear  idea  of  the 
kind  of  apron  desired. 


Why  ?  What  are  the  advantages 
of  white  and  light  colors  ? 


length  of 


Size  of  the  apron — 

f  Apron. 
Bib. 
Belt. 
[  Straps. 
Width  of  apron  and  bib. 
Width  of  belt  and  straps  2 
inches. 

Size  of         f  Wide,  2  inches, 
hems          I  Narrow,  |  inch. 

Measures  taken  of  person  for 
whom  apron  is  being  made. 

Length  of  skirt. 

Length  of  strap  from  waist,  over 
the  shoulder,  and  across  the  back. 

Size  of  waist. 


I  have  apron  lawn  for  you  to 
use  for  your  aprons,  but  I  would 
like  to  have  you  bring  some  sam- 
ples next  Friday  of  materials  either 
white  or  colored  which  you  think 
would  be  suitable  for  aprons. 

Find  out  the  cost  and  width  of 
the  material  you  select. 

NOTE. — Beginning  of  the  presentation  of 
the  new  work,  the  aim  being  to  cut  the 
apron.  Notice  method  of  developing  ideas 
in  relation  to  cutting. 

Let  us  see  how  many  things  we 
must  think  about  in  cutting  out 
an  apron. 

Is  it  necessary  to  have  a  pattern 
for  a  cooking  apron  ? 

After  the  material  is  selected 
what  is  the  first  thing  that  must 
be  decided  upon? 


How  may  this  be  determined? 
(Children  to  take  each  other's 
measures.  Each  child  to  write 
down  her  own  measures.) 


PLANNING  A  DOMESTIC-ART  LESSON 


Cut  with  the  warp  threads  run- 
ning lengthwise  of  the  pieces. 

For  strength. 

Two  widths  will  be  needed. 


Avoid  a  seam  in  the  centre  of 
the  front  by  dividing  one  width 
lengthwise  through  the  centre  and 
sewing  one-half  width  on  each 
side  of  the  whole  width. 


Two  pieces  for  belt. 
Two  pieces  for  straps. 
One  piece  for  bib. 


Waist  measure  taken  loosely, 
i  inch  allowed  for  lap  and  £  inch 
for  finishing. 


Which  way  of  the  material  will 
the  pieces  be  cut? 

Why? 

Will  one  width  be  sufficient  for 
the  skirt  of  the  apron?  How 
many  will  be  needed? 

Would  a  seam  be  desirable  in 
the  centre  of  the  front  ? 

How  may  this  be  avoided  ? 


What     other     pieces     will     be 
needed  ? 


How  wil1  the  size  of  the  belt  be 
determined? 

How  can  we  cut  the  pieces  re- 
quired from  the  material  we  have 
to  the  best  advantage? 


\           A 
1 
8* 

V 

3 

Centre 
Width 

Side  Width 

i 
> 

\ 

c 

| 

Side  Width 

i 

: 

\ 
\ 

c 

4* 
/ 

2 
/ 

Shoulder  Strap 

Shoulder  Strap 

, 

Belt 

(Use   the   board    for   illustrating,  ask  children  to    suggest  ways  of 
arranging  the  parts.) 


72  DOMESTIC  ART 

Begin  at  the  straight  end  of  the  Where  will  you  begin  to  cut? 

cloth. 


Pieces  to  be  measured,  marked 
with  pins,  creased,  and  cut  on 
crease. 


Compare  and  discuss  different 
ways  of  arrangement  if  the  class 
has  suggested  them,  if  not  give 
only  one  drawing. 

Directions  for  work. 
Give  each  child  a  piece  of  lawn 
2  yards  long. 
Pass  scissors. 


Work- 
Measuring  and  cutting  of  pieces. 


Strip  for  belt. 

Two    strips    to    go    over    the 
shoulder. 


Some  material  can  be  measured 
and  torn,  but  this  lawn  does  not 
tear  satisfactorily  so  we  will  meas- 
ure it  carefully,  mark  with  pins, 
crease,  and  then  cut  on  the  fold. 


I  would  like  to  have  you  cut 
your  aprons  out  to-day,  but  when 
you  measure  and  crease  a  line  I 
want  to  see  it  each  time  before  it  is 
cut. 

This  is  a  statement  of  aim  of  work  for 
the  day. 

(1)  On  one  side  of  cloth  meas- 
ure a  6j"  strip  the  entire  length  of 
the  cloth. 

Mark  with  pins  or  pencil  dots. 
Crease  on  places  marked. 
After  I  have  seen  it,  cut  on  the 
crease. 

(2)  Measure  a  2"  strip  off  the 
6£"  strip  in  the  same  manner. 

(3)  Fold  the  4^"  strip  cross-wise 
through  the  centre,  be  sure  to  fold 
the  edges  together  evenly,  crease 
and  cut  as  before. 

(4)  Fold   and   pin   these   three 
strips  together. 

(5)  From  the  straight  end  of  the 
cloth  measure  27"  on  both  edges 
and  in  the  centre,  fold  on  marks 
and  crease,  before  cutting  on  the 
crease  see  that  material  is  evenly 
folded  and  cut  across  goods  along 
the  even  edge. 


PLANNING  A  DOMESTIC-ART  LESSON  73 

Middle  width  and  piece  to  be  (6)  Cut  on  the  fold;  this  gives 

divided.  two   pieces   the   same   size,    zfx 

33*"- 

Side  pieces.  (7)  Fold   one   of   them   length- 

wise through  the  centre,  crease, 
and  cut. 

(8)  Pin  these  two  pieces  to  the 
largest  piece  you  have. 

(9)  You    have    one    piece    left. 
How  long  is  it  ? 

Bib.  (id)  Measure  a  piece  9"  long 

and  8"  wide,  fold,  crease  and  cut. 
Round  corners  slightly  at  lower 
edge. 

(n)  Fold  the  small  piece  that 
is  left  and  put  it  in  your  sewing- 
box. 

(12)  Fold  your  work  and  pin 
your  name  on  it. 


Work  put  away.  Put  things  away  in  your  sewing- 

Scissors  collected  by  one  child.         boxes. 

As  soon  as  your  work  is  put 
away  sit  down  and  face  this  way. 

Summary  of  points  brought  out  How  many  think  they  could  cut 

in  the  lesson.  an  apron  out  at  home  like  the  one 

we  have  just  cut  ? 

Suppose  you  were  going  to 
make  one  for  some  one  at  home, 
who  can  tell  me  how  to  begin  it  ? 

What  would  you  do  next? 


74  DOMESTIC  ART 

STUDENT  PLAN 
OUTLINE  FOR  SERIES  OF  LESSONS 

Subject. — Weaving  rug. 

School. — Elementary. 

Grade.— III. 

Number  of  Children. — 22. 

Age.—S-q. 

Number  of  Lessons. — 5. 

Teachers'  Aims. — 

(a)  Practical;  weaving  rug  with  pattern. 

(fy  Ethical;  habits  of  accurate  thinking  and  doing,  per- 
severance, and  patience. 

(c)  Social;  relation  of  rug-  weaving  to  home  and  school, 
adaptation  of  material  used. 

Pupils'  Aim. — Weaving  rug. 

Materials. — 22  pieces  cardboard,  belt  punch,  44  balls  jute 
(several  colors),  paper,  No.  19  tapestry  needles,  scissors, 
thimbles. 

Cost  per  Child. — 5  cents. 

Illustrative  Material. — Blackboard,  small  pieces  of  canvas 
showing  selvage  and  warp  and  woof,  large  cardboard  with 
bright- colored  jute  for  demonstration,  rug  on  small  cardboard 
partly  woven,  finished  rug. 

Outline  of  Subject-Matter. — 

(1)  Weaving  rug.     Planning  size,  arranging  holes  for  warp 
thread,   threading   needles,   making   knot,   putting   in   warp 
thread,  weaving  woof  threads  (darning,  shuttle,  heddle,  batten) , 
selvage,  joining  threads,  making  simple  and  pleasing  stripe  for 
pattern,  removing  from  card,  fringing. 

(2)  Accuracy  of  thought,  skill. 

(3)  Jute,  cultivation,  manufacture,  use,  adaptation. 


PLANNING  A  DOMESTIC-ART  LESSON 


75 


DAILY    PLAN.      LESSON    2 

Subject.— Weaving  rug. 
School. — Elementary. 
Grade. — 3d. 

Teachers'  Aim. — Have  pupils  put  in  pattern  of  two  stripes 
and  begin  weaving  centre  of  rug. 
Pupils'  Aim. — To  weave  part  of  rug. 


SUBJECT-MATTER 


Drew  woof  threads  too  tight,  so 
made  width  of  rug  uneven.  Didn't 
tighten  up  the  woof  enough  to 
make  good,  firm,  solid  material. 


In  weaving,  the  jute  was  passed 
under  and  over  the  first  time  across, 
and  over  and  under  coming  back. 

Join  well  in  toward  centre, 
never  on  selvage.  Leave  ends 
about  i"  long  on  wrong  side.  See 
Lesson  i. 


METHOD 

Every  one  looks  happy  and  eager 
to  work  this  afternoon.  I'm  glad, 
for  we  have  a  great  deal  to  do  and 
we'll  want  to  do  it  well.  You've 
heard  the  old  saying,  "What's 
worth  doing  at  all,  is  worth  doing 
well."  I'm  sure  we  all  feel  that  it 
is  worth  while  to  weave  a  small 
rug  for  the  doll's  house  and  so  it  is 
worth  weaving  well. 

Let  us  think  for  just  a  second 
what  troubled  us  in  our  weaving 
last  week.  William,  can  you  tell 
us? 

We'll  try  to  overcome  those  faults 
to-day  and  keep  the  woof  threads 
loose  enough  to  make  rug  even; 
also  push  the  woof  thread  well  up 
to  the  end  every  time. 

Just  how  did  we  put  in  the  woof 
threads? 


Who  remembers  how  we  piece 
the  thread? 


76 


DOMESTIC  ART 


Demonstration  on  blackboard 
and  large  cardboard,  illustrating 
method  of  going  over  and  under 
the  alternate  threads  and  of  piec- 
ing the  woof  by  lapping  near  the 
middle  of  woven  material. 

Demonstrate  with  bright  color. 


Pass  rugs,  jute,  scissors. 
Work  begins. 

Woven  two  stripes  and  begun 
on  centre,  keeping  width  even  and 
woof  well  battened. 


Over  and  under  alternate 
threads,  careful  joining  of  thread, 
width  of  rug,  close  firm  mesh. 


I  expect  every  child  to  put  in 
two  narrow  stripes  and  begin 
weaving  centre  of  rug.  Every 
pupil  ought  to  have  a  good  rug. 

Stripe  is  to  be  of  different  color. 
Begin  near  centre  under  same  warp 
thread  with  first  color.  Weave  in 
two  or  three  threads  across  for  nar- 
row stripe  and  six  or  seven  for 
wide  one  with  few  threads  of  brown 
between. 


On  last  row  of  stripe  leave  off 
where  you  began.  Cut  thread 
with  long  end,  leaving  it  on  wrong 
side  of  rug. 

Tell  the  class,  Lulu,  what  they 
are  expected  to  do  in  the  next  half 
hour.  How  many  think  they  can 
do  it,  and  do  it  well?  Good! 
we'll  be  first-class  weavers. 


Those  who  have  done  what  I 
asked  them  to  do,  hold  up  rug, 
please.  We've  done  very  well 
this  afternoon. 

What  are  the  things  we  need  to 
keep  in  mind  to  be  good  weavers? 

Collect. 


PLANNING  A  DOMESTIC-ART  LESSON  77 

STUDENT  PLAN 
OUTLINE  FOR  SERIES  OF  LESSONS 

Subject. — Making  a  petticoat. 
School.— Public.     Grade.— 8th. 
Age  of  Children. — 14. 
Number  of  Lessons. — 12. 

Teachers'  Aim. — To  teach  the  girl  to  make  a  neat,  useful 
petticoat  for  herself  by  machine,  to  give  her  an  understanding 
of  the  varying  conditions  under  which  ready-made  underwear 
is  made,  and  the  girl's  responsibility  as  a  consumer. 
Pupils'  Aim.— To  make  a  petticoat  for  herself. 
Materials. — 
(a)  Actual  (for  each  girl): 

Cambric,  2  lengths. 

Ruffling,  34  yards. 

Button. 

Thread,  No.  50  and  No.  80. 

Needles. 

Scissors. 

Thimble. 

Tape  measure. 

Pins. 

Emery. 
(6)  Illustrative: 

Paper. 

Demonstration  cloth. 

Pictures  of  factory  life,  sweat-shop  labor. 

Work  of  the  Consumers'  League  in  bettering  con- 
ditions. 

Plackets  of  various  kinds. 

Finished  skirts. 


78  DOMESTIC  ART 

Subject-Matter. — 

Points  covered  in  making  the  petticoat: 

(1)  Cutting  of  the  skirt  from  two  lengths  of  material. 

(2)  Pinning  and  basting  seams. 

(3)  Making  French  seams. 

(4)  Putting  in  the  straight  placket. 

(5)  Preparation  of  the  top  of  the  skirt  for  the  band  (sloping, 
gathering). 

(6)  Fitting  the  skirt  to  the  band. 

(7)  Putting  on  the  band. 

(8)  Preparation  of  the  bottom  of  the  skirt  for  the  ruffle. 

(a}  Curving  the  bottom  of  the  skirt  (not  necessary 

when  cutting  from  a  pattern). 
(6)  Creasing  and  stitching  the  J-inch  tuck. 
(c)  Division  of  skirt  into  quarters. 

(9)  Preparation  of  the  ruffle: 

(a)  Cutting  to  desired  width. 

(b)  Joining. 

(c)  Division  into  quarters. 

(d)  Gathering. 

(10)  Fastening  of  the  ruffle  to  the  skirt. 

(u)  Button-hole  (practice,  then  make  in  the  band). 
(12)  Sewing  on  the  button. 

DAILY  PLAN.      LESSON  8* 

Subject. — Making  a  petticoat  by  machine. 
School. — Public. — Elementary. 
.Grade—  8th. 

Length  of  lesson — One  hour. 

Teachers'  A  im. — To  stroke  the  gathers  of  the  ruffle.   To  baste 
a  parH)f  the  ruffle  to  the  skirt,  distributing  the  gathers  properly. 
*NOTE:     The  first  seven  plans  are  omitted;   this  is  given  as  a  type. 


PLANNING   A   DOMESTIC-ART   LESSON 


79 


Pupils1  Aim. — To  stroke  the  gathers  of  the  ruffle.     To  baste 
a  part  of  the  ruffle  to  the  skirt,  distributing  the  gathers  properly. 


SUBJECT-MATTER 

To  prepare  the  ruffle  for  gather- 
ing, these  steps  were  taken: 

1.  Cutting  of  the  ruffle  to  the 
desired  width. 

2.  Joining     of     ruffle     (French 
seam). 

3.  Dividing  of  ruffle  into  quar- 
ters. 

An  embroidery  ruffle  is  prepared 
in  the  same  way. 


In  a  cloth  ruffle,  the  woof  threads 
extend  the  length  of  the  ruffle  and 
the  warp  threads  up  and  down — 
the  same  way  as  in  the  body  of  the 
skirt.  The  material  cuts  to  bet- 
ter advantage  in  this  way  and  the 
ruffle  looks  better  (falls  into  pret- 
tier folds). 


In  making  a  cloth  ruffle,  a  num- 
ber of  strips  should  be  torn  across 
the  material. 


The  depth  of  the  strips  =  the 
depth  of  the  ruffle  when  finished  + 
the  amount  for  tucks,  hem,  and 
making. 


METHOD 

Tell  me  very  briefly  how  you 
prepared  your  ruffle  for  the  gather- 
ing— simply  name  the  steps. 


Can  you  think  of  any  other  kind 
of  ruffle  that  would  be  prepared  in 
the  same  way  ? 

We  seldom  get  ruffling  already 
prepared  for  us.  If  we  wish  to  have 
a  cloth  ruffle  we  must  usually  cut  it 
and  make  it. 

How  many  of  you  have  ever 
made  a  cloth  ruffle  or  have  seen  one 
made  ?  Which  set  of  threads  ex- 
tended the  length  of  the  ruffle? 
Why? 


(Teacher  shows  a  cloth  ruffle  on 
a  skirt.) 

(Teacher  makes  a  diagram  on 
the  board  to  illustrate  the  way  in 
which  the  strips  are  torn  for  the 
ruffle.) 

In  measuring  the  depth  of  the 
strips,  for  what  would  you  have  to 
allow? 


8o 


y 


DOMESTIC  ART 


The  number  of  strips  needed  de- 
pends upon: 

(1)  The  width  of  the  material. 

(2)  The    width     of    the    skirt 
around  the  bottom. 

(3)  The  amount  of  fulness  de- 
sired (usually  i \  times). 


What  would  determine  the  num- 
ber of  strips  needed? 


After  the  strips  are  cut,  they  are 
joined. 

The  hem  and  tucks  are  then  put 
in.  The  ruffle  is  quartered  and 
gathered. 


(Teacher  names  the  steps  taken 
in  finishing  a  cloth  ruffle.) 


Before  the  ruffle  is  fastened  to 
the  skirt,  the  gathers  must  be 
stroked.  It  was  not  necessary  to 
stroke  the  gathers  at  the  top  of  the 
skirt,  because  there  were  two  rows 
of  gathering. 


/In  the  ruffle  there  is  but  one  row 
of  gathering,  therefore  it  is  neces- 
sary to  stroke  the  gathers. 


I  shall  show  you  to-day  how  to 
stroke  the  gathers  quickly. 


Stroke  gathers  because  it  is  a 
help  in  getting  them  distributed 
evenly. 


(Teacher  explains  reason  Tor 
stroking  gathers  and  demonstrates 
the  stroking.) 


For  fine  materials,  stroke  the 
gathers  with  a  coarse  needle.  For 
heavier  materials,  stroke  the  gath- 
ers by  drawing  them  between  the 
thumb  and  forefinger — pressing 
them.  The  gathering  thread  is 
held  firmly — may  be  pinned  to  the 
knee. 


(To  show  the  importance  of 
stroking  gathers,  teacher  shows 
two  gathered  pieces.  In  one,  the 
gathers  will  have  been  stroked; 
in  the  other,  not.) 


PLANNING  A  DOMESTIC-ART  LESSON 


8l 


After  the  gathers  are  stroked,  the 
ruffle  is  ready  to  be  fastened  to  the 
skirt. 


Divide  the  skirt  into  fourths  cor- 
responding to  the  division  of  the 
ruffle.  Mark  the  divisions  with 
several  large  stitches. 


Since  the  ruffle  was  quartered 
for  the  gathering,  what  should  be 
done  to  the  skirt  before  attaching 
the  ruffle,  in  order  to  get  the  gathers 
evenly  distributed? 


In  pinning  and  basting  the  ruffle 
to  the  skirt,  the  following  points 
should  be  considered: 

(i)  Wrong  side  of  ruffle  to 
wrong  side  of  skirt;  (2)  joining  of 
ruffle  in  the  back,  divisions  placed 
to  correspond;  (3)  drawr  up  the 
gathering  thread  and  wind  it 
around  a  pin;  (4)  pin  (pins  ex- 
tending at  right  angles  to  the 
gathering  thread),  distributing  the 
gathers  evenly,  gathered  side  next 
to  the  worker;  (5)  baste  (being 
careful  not  to  disarrange  the 
gathers)  J-inch  seam. 


I  shall  show  you  how  to  pin  and 
baste  the  ruffle  to  the  skirt. 


(Teacher  demonstrates  the  pin- 
ning and  basting  of  the  ruffle  to 
the  skirt.) 


Now  you  may  stroke  the  gath- 
ers of  your  ruffle,  then  fasten  the 
ruffle  to  the  skirt.  Every  girl 
should  get  at  least  one  quarter  of 
her  ruffle  basted  to-day. 


Girls  work  for  remainder  of 
hour,  and  after  work  is  collected 
there  is  a  brief  summary  as  sug- 
gested by  the  question  following 
practical  work. 


Practical  work. 


What  do  you  think  we  must  be 
most  careful  about  in  basting  the 
remainder  of  the  ruffle  in  place  ? 


82  DOMESTIC  ART 

Students  of  domestic  art  in  training  will  find  it 
of  great  assistance  to  visit  domestic-art  classes  for 
observation  and  discussion.  If  this  can  be  done  in 
groups,  the  discussions  will  prove  of  much  greater 
value.  It  is  well  to  have,  before  visiting  a  class,  a 
pretty  clear  idea  of  the  relation  of  domestic  art  to 
other  grade  subjects,  and  to  have  discussed  the  value 
of  industrial  lines  of  work,  methods  of  presentation, 
etc.  The  greater  knowledge  attained  along  these  lines 
before  visiting,  the  greater  will  be  the  benefits  derived, 
and  the  eyes  will  be  opened  to  many  things  before 
unseen.  There  must  be  some  basis  for  judgment  of 
the  lesson  observed.  It  is  well,  also,  for  students  to 
visit  before  there  is  much  basis  for  judgment  and 
then  later,  when  the  thoughts  have  become  better  for- 
mulated and  arranged.  The  students'  ideas  should 
not  be  moulded  by  the  teacher,  but  liberated  so  they 
will  think  and  be  free  to  observe  for  themselves. 

The  test  for  the  judgment  of  a  domestic-art  les- 
son is  whether  it  is  adapted  to  the  physical  and 
psychical  nature  of  the  child  or  pupil.  Again,  an- 
other test  is,  Has  the  environment  been  kept  in  mind  ? 
The  theory  of  the  student-teacher,  or  the  idea  of 
how  the  thing  is  done,  the  plan  of  action,  is  often 
very  different  from  the  actual  practice.  Experi- 


PLANNING   A   DOMESTIC-ART  LESSON  83 

ence  or  practice  should  enable  a  teacher  to  under- 
stand herself,  and  then  to  formulate  her  own  theory, 
for  it  is  only  with  experience  that  there  comes  a 
clearing  up  of  thought.  This  means  that  there  is 
control  and  appreciation  of  action  and  that  the 
teacher  has  reached  the  creative  stage  and  under- 
stands the  reactions. 

The  following  outline  may  be  suggestive  to  those 
not  used  to  observing.  It  is  wise  to  enter  the  name 
of  class,  date,  etc.,  with  full  particulars  in  the  note- 
book, under  the  following  heads.  The  points  may 
be  discussed  later  and  much  benefit  derived  from  the 
individual  efforts  made  at  observation. 

OBSERVATION 

(a)  School. 

(b)  Grade.    Number  in  class. 

(c)  Date,  and  name  of  teacher. 

(d)  Subject. 

(e)  Time  allowed. 

1.   The  Pupils— 

(a)  Physical  condition,  general  health,  sight,  hear- 
ing, any  defects.  Are  these  considered  in  any  way 
by  teacher,  in  her  plans  or  instructions? 

(b}  Mental  aspects. 


84  DOMESTIC  ART 

(1)  Notice  attention  of  children.    How  gained? 
Lack  of  attention.     Causes. 

(2)  Note  differences  between  the  alert  and  active 
child-mind  and  slow  or  deficient  child.    Was  class 
sacrificed  for  backward  children?    Effects  of  home 
training. 

(3)  Habit  formations  of  the  children,  notice  if 
these  conduce  to  economy  of  tim'e  in  class. 

(4)  Notice  use  made  by  teacher  of  other  impulses, 
or  instincts  of  the  child,  as  play,  curiosity,  jealousy, 
wonder,  sympathy,  etc. 

II.    The  Teacher— 

(a)  Type  of  lesson  observed?    Reasons  why? 

(1)  Aim?    Was  it  accomplished? 

(2)  Was  the  method  adapted  to  aim  of  lesson? 

(3)  State  leading  steps  in  the  development  of  the 
lesson. 

(4)  Were  the  questions  of  the  teacher  logical; 
strong,  or  weak? 

(5)  What  appeared  to  you  to  be  the  best  thing  ac- 
complished by  the  lesson? 

(6)  Were  the  children  taught  to  think  about  the 
relation  of  the  subject  to  any  social  problem  ?    If  so, 
what,  and  with  what  results? 

(7)  Was  there  any  application  of  the  lesson  taught  ? 
If  not,  why?    How  might  it  have  been  done? 

(8)  Would  you  have  presented  the  lesson  in  any 
different  way? 


PLANNING  A  DOMESTIC-ART  LESSON  85 

(b)  Class  management. 

(1)  Devices  for  securing  attention. 

(2)  Skill  and  rapidity.     Economy  of  time. 

(3)  Storage  and  distribution  of  materials. 

(4)  Ventilation,  heating,  and  lighting.     Order  of 
class-room. 

(5)  Class  spirit. 

(6)  Devices  for  attending  to  routine  matters. 

(c)  Personality  of  teacher. 

(1)  Appearance,  manner. 

(2)  Peculiarities  of  habit.    What  effect,  if  any,  do 
these  have  on  the  class  ? 

(3)  Did  you  notice  any  particular  result  of  teacher's 
influence  ? 

III.  The  Equipment— 

(a)  General. 

(b)  Illustrative;  devices  for  inexpensive  equipment 
and  use. 

(c)  Storage    of   equipment,   permanent    or  tem- 
porary. 

IV.  The  Curriculum — 

(a)  Notice  general  curriculum  of  school. 

(b)  Notice  curriculum  in  domestic  art.     Any  at- 
tempt at  correlation. 

(c)  Read  curriculum  of  grade  under  observation, 
as  well  as  previous  work  in  domestic  art. 


86  DOMESTIC  ART 

REFERENCES  FOR  STUDY 

"The  Method  of  the  Recitation,"  McMurray. 
"Teacher's  College  Record,"  January,  1903. 
"Essentials  of  Method,"  De  Garmo. 
"The  Educative  Process,"  Bagley. 


CHAPTER  VI 
THE  ECONOMICS  OF  DOMESTIC  ART 

THE  cost  of  the  introduction  of  industrial  work 
into  the  elementary  school  will  vary  according  to 
cost  of  domes-  the  ways  and  means  adopted  and  the 
eiemeltfry*116  ingenuity  and  versatility  of  those  who 
school.  nave  jt  in  charge.  There  need  be  no 

special  room  for  this  work  unless  space  is  available. 
It  is  always  an  incentive  to  the  children,  however, 
to  have  a  special  place  where  this  work  may  be 
carried  on,  and  is  of  great  assistance  to  the  teacher. 
There  she  may  collect  pictures,  looms,  spinning 
wheels,  exhibits  of  many  kinds  which  will  aid  her 
in  giving  instruction  and  be  constantly  on  exhibi- 
tion for  the  children's  use.  The  classes  will  go  to 
this  room  for  the  domestic-art  work,  especially  the 
upper  grades.  If  machine  work  is  given  as  part 
of  the  course,  it  is  almost  necessary  to  have  a  special 
room,  although  it  is  possible  to  have  the  machines 
in  the  class-room.  If  the  school  is  coeducational, 

87 


88  DOMESTIC  ART 

this  will  necessitate  certain  changes,  as  the  work 
for  the  boys  must  be  considered  too. 

In  the  lower  grades  the  industrial  work  of  which 
the  textile  field  is  one  phase  may  be  carried  on  in 
the  class-room.     The  many  possibilities  in  the  w'  '^ 
range  of  material  for  selection  make  it  possible1 
reduce  the  cost  of  this  work  to  five  cents  per  chi 
per  year  of  one  hour  a  week.     Many  schools  allo' 
more  than  this.     The  cost  of  materials  will  deperd 
too  on  the  person  in  charge  of  the  work.     If  left  t 
the  individual  grade  teachers  who  know  nothing 
of  this  field  of  work,  there  is  apt  to  be  a  greater 
waste  than  if  there  is  a  well-trained  ingenious  super- 
visor to  control  costs.     Such  supervisors  will  com- 
mand salaries  ranging  from  $1,200  to  $2,500  and 
in  some  instances  in  large  school  systems  $3,000 
and  more.     This  is  really  an  economy  in  the  long 
run,  for  the  work  will  progress  more  smoothly,  it 
will  be  better  planned,  the  children  will  be  better 
taught,  with  better  results,  and  there  will  be  a  saving 
in  expenditure  for  materials. 

The  permanent  equipment  in  the  lower  grades 
may  be  very  inexpensive.  A  general  supply  of 
scissors,  emeries,  tape-measures,  etc.,  may  be  taken 
from  room  to  room  if  it  is  not  possible  to  have 


THE   ECONOMICS   OF  DOMESTIC  ART  89 

enough  for  each  grade.     Thimbles  may  be  brought 
from  home  by  the  children  and  so  the  cost  of  perma- 
nent equipment  be  reduced  to  almost  nothing.     The 
same  may  be  true  of  materials  used.     A  teacher 
v  10  is  awake  to  the  possibilities  of  odds  and  ends 
at  are  thrown  into  the  waste-basket  will  be  able 
reduce  the  cost  greatly.     If  it  is  possible  to  have 
vhe  equipment  for  each  grade,  it  may  be  bought  as 
follows : 

i  dozen  thimbles 25 

i      "      emeries 40 

i      "      scissors 3.00 

i      "      tape  measures 40 

i      "      boxes  for  work 84 

Permanent  equipment  for  one  dozen  children  $4.89 

If  it  is  not  possible  to  afford  the  cloth-covered 
boxes  for  the  work,  as  itemized  above,  envelopes  of 
bogus  paper  may  be  made  and  decorated  by  the 
children,  or  it  may  be  possible  to  obtain  from  some 
local  shoe  department  store  boxes  of  uniform  size 
and  shape,  for  very  little  cost,  and  often  for  nothing. 
Tools  for  other  lines  of  hand-work  besides  the 
sewing  are  scarcely  necessary.  Clay  work  may 
require  a  simple  woodwool,  but  one  can  manage 
without  it,  or  with  an  odd  bit  of  wood  sharpened  to 


QO  DOMESTIC  ART 

a  point,  which  need  cost  nothing.  For  weaving 
there  are  many  simple  looms  on  the  market  ranging 
in  price  from  20  cents  to  $1.50,  but  it  is  far  bet- 
ter to  have  the  children  make  their  own  looms  of 
cardboard  or  wood.  Cardboard  and  paper  work 
in  the  lower  grades  need  necessitate  very  little  ex- 
penditure for  tools.  The  scissors  used  for  the  sew- 
ing may  be  used,  although  it  is  better  to  have  a 
separate  set  for  paper  work.  This  set  may  be  used 
also  for  the  other  industrial  work  of  the  lower 
grades. 

In  the.  upper  grades  the  cost  of  maintenance  of 
the  work  will  vary.  Some  school  boards  allow  as 
much  as  twenty-five  cents  per  year  per  child.  This 
will  make  possible  a  number  of  small  applications 
for  stitches.  If  large  articles  or  garments  are  made, 
the  parents  are  quite  willing  to  pay  for  the  cost,  as 
they  realize  the  utilitarian  value  of  the  product. 
The  teacher  should  be  careful,  however,  to  have  the 
children  make  articles  which  will  fit  the  needs  of  the 
home.  If  a  child  is  too  poor  to  pay  for  the  cost 
of  the  article,  the  child  may  earn  it  by  service  in 
school,  or  it  may  be  made  for  sale  and  bought  by 
the  teachers  for  exhibit  or  other  purposes.  Visitors 
often  ask  for  samples  of  the  children's  work,  and 


THE  ECONOMICS   OF   DOMESTIC  ART  91 

sales  may  be  made  in  this  way.  It  is  almost  a  neces- 
sity to  have  a  special  teacher  in  the  upper  grades, 
and  really  an  economy,  although  the  work  is  often 
conducted  by  the  grade  teacher.  The  equipment  in 
the  way  of  tools  may  cost  very  little  as  outlined  above, 
and  one  set  of  tools  may  be  used  for  all  the  classes ; 
or  each  grade  may  have  its  own,  which  is  of  course 
more  desirable.  The  cost  of  furnishings  for  a  simple 
laboratory  may  be  kept  very  low.  The  room  should 
be  large  enough  to  seat  the  children  comfortably, 
should  be  well  lighted,  the  walls  tastefully  decorated, 
and  have  convenient  space  for  storing  materials. 
This  room  is  almost  a  necessity  where  the  school 
is  a  local  centre  for  work  and  the  children  of 
the  neighboring  schools  attend  it  for  their  exer- 
cises in  domestic  art.  This  method  is  adopted  in 
smaller  towns  and  cities  in  order  to  reduce  the 
cost. 

The  special  room  is  also  an  incentive  to  work. 
Children  will  often  visit  it  at  odd  periods  for  com- 
pletion of  back  work,  or  because  of  interest  in  the 
exhibits  and  a  desire  to  study.  It  should  be  a  cen- 
tre for  such  information  as  the  teacher  of  domestic 
art  has  to  give.  There  should  be  low  chairs  for 
sewing,  work  tables,  a  cutting  table,  machines, 


92  DOMESTIC  ART 

blackboard,  etc.  This  special  room  may  often  be 
used  for  other  purposes,  as  the  sewing  classes  may 
not  occupy  it  during  all  the  periods.  On  that 
account  it  is  wise  to  have  folding  tables  which  may 
be  removed  when  it  is  necessary  to  clear  the  floor 
space.  Tables  hinged  and  attached  to  the  walls 
may  be  let  down  and  be  out  of  the  way  when  it  is 
necessary  to  remove  them.  The  following  is  a  list 
with  cost  of  a  simple,  inexpensive  laboratory  equip- 
ment for  grade  school  use  for  twenty-four  pupils: 

2  dozen  chairs $24.00 

8  work  tables 16.00 

2  cutting  tables  (kitchen  tables  stained)       .  6 .  oo 

4  sewing  machines 100.00 

Teacher's  desk 10.00 

"        chair 3.00 

i  demonstration  cloth  and  needle  ....  .50 

i  dozen  waist  forms 6.00 

1  gas  stove i .  50 

2  flatirons       -72 

i  mirror  2.00 


Total  cost $169.72 

Good  work  may  be  done  with  the  inexpensive 
equipment.  Elaborate  furnishings  do  not  tend  to 
increase  the  output  or  quality  of  the  work.  Addi- 
tional facilities  contribute  to  ease  and  convenience 


THE   ECONOMICS   OF  DOMESTIC  ART  93 

of  the  worker  and  especially  the  teacher.     A  more 

expensive    equipment    is   added    below  for   upper 
grade  use: 

2  dozen  chairs $36.  oo 

i  dozen  work  tables 36.00 

6  cutting  tables  . 60 .  oo 

6  sewing  machines 180.00 

i  exhibit  case 30.00 

i  teacher's  desk 15 .00 

i        "       chair 3.00 

i  mirror 20.00 

i  gas  stove 3-°o 

6  flatirons 3 .  oo 

i  screen 6.00 

i  demonstration  frame 2.00 

i  bulletin  board       3-oo 

i  roll  case  for  storing  pupils'  work — accom- 
modating 4  classes 75 .00 

6  waist  forms 3 .  oo 

i  ironing  board i .  50 


Total  cost $476.50 

The  cost  of  the  laboratory  equipment  for  the  high 
school  need  be  little  more  than  that  of  the  special 
cost  in  high  room  for  upper  grade  work.  The  addi- 
tional expense  will  probably  be  for  the 
necessary  articles  for  drafting  and  garment-making, 
such  as  yard-sticks,  skirt  forms,  etc. 


94  DOMESTIC   ART 

The  cost  of  the  temporary  equipment  for  both 
elementary  and  high  school  will  depend  somewhat 
on  the  method  of  purchase  of  materials.  Materials 
bought  at  wholesale  in  large  quantities  may  be 
obtained  at  great  reduction.  The  care  and  use  of 
the  temporary  equipment  will  also  regulate  the 
cost. 

The  cost  of  equipment  in  other  types  of  schools 
will  vary  according  to  aim,  number  of  pupils  to  be 
accommodated,  and  the  elaborateness  of  outfit. 
The  equipment  need  not  necessarily  be  expensive. 
The  following  lists  of  cost  of  articles  will  furnish 
suggestions  for  those  interested  in  both  expensive 
and  inexpensive  equipment: 

Bias  cutter  and  marker $5.00 

Boxes — sewing — cloth  -  covered — 8x14x24, 

per  hundred 18.00 

i8xi6jx4f,  per  hundred 45 .00 

6jx4jx3,  per  hundred 8.00 

Bulletin  boards,  each 3.00  to      5.00 

Chairs — 

Bent  wood,  with  cane  seat,  each     ...  1.25 

Kitchen  chairs  (to  be  stained),  each    .     .  .50 

Willow  (for  office  use),  each 5-oo 

Desk  chairs  (revolving,  bent  wood),  each  3.50 

"       (with  arms),  each   ....  5.00  to    12.00 

Laboratory  chair  (better  class)  each    .     .  3 .  oo  to      5 .  oo 


THE  ECONOMICS   OF  DOMESTIC  ART  95 

Cases — 

Bookcases,  each 10.00  to    50.00 

Storage  for  work — for  50,  each  .     .     .     .  30.00  to    75.00 

Exhibit  cases — gowns  and  hats,  each    .     .  50.00  to  100.00 
Exhibit  cases — flat,  according  to  size  and 

finish        25. oo  to    75.00 

Exhibit  cases — sliding  glass  doors,  accord- 
ing to  size  and  finish      25. oo  to    75.00 

Ironing   cabinets — zinc  top    (for  ironing 

outfit  made  to  order) 15 .00 

Desks — 

Flat  top — well  finished,  with  side  drawers  25.00 

Flat  top  table  without  side  drawers    .     .  12.00 

Roll-top  desks  for  office  use,  each  .     .     .  10.00  to   75.00 
Dress  forms — 

Full  length,  each 3.00  to      8.00 

Waist  length,  each .50  to      4.00 

Demonstration  frames  (made  to  order),  each  i .  oo  to      5 .  oo 

Emeries,  per  dozen 25  to        .50 

Embroidery  rings,  per  dozen 75 

"           holders  (Priscilla),  per  dozen  .  2.50 
Files — 

Letter  files  (for  office  use),  each  .     .     .     .  20.00  to    50.00 

Card  boxes  and  cataloguing  schemes,  each  i .  oo  to    50 .  oo 

Gas  stoves,  each i .  50  to      5 .  oo 

Irons,  according  to  style  and  weight,  each    .  .36  to      i.oo 

Electric  irons,    4  lb.,  nickel,  each        .     .  3.75 

"           "        6  "         "         "           .     .  5.75 

ft                                    U                      I2         U                               «                              U  g        QQ 

Mirrors — 

Hand-mirrors,  each 75  to      3.00 

Triple    folding    wall-mirrors     (millinery 

purpose),  according  to  size      .     .     .     .  5.00  to    25.00 


96  DOMESTIC  ART 

Triple  folding  dressmaking-mirror,  each  30.00  to    75.00 

Flat  wall-mirrors,  oak  frames,    according 

to  size      . 2. 50  to    25.00 

Machines — 

Single- and  double-thread,  each       .     .     .  20.00  to    60.00 

With  motor  attachment,  each     .     .     .     .  60.00  to    70.00 

Pedestals  (for  fitting),  each 4.00  to    10.00 

Pinking  machine,  each 5-oo 

Plaiting  machine,  each 12.00 

Rollers  (paper) — 

Jumbo  rollers,  stand,  each 5 .  oo 

Drafting-paper  (per  roll),  each  ....  5.00 
Rugs  (for  office  use),  according  to  size  and 

quality 20.00  to    50.00 

Rattan  couch,  each 15.00 

Stools,  24-inch  cane-seat,  per  dozen   .     .     .  13 .  oo 

24-inch  wooden-seat,  per  dozen  ....  7 .  oo 

Screens,  triple-folding,  each       5 .  oo  to    20 .  oo 

Seatings,  class-room,  a  seat       2 .  oo  to      4 .  oo 

Skirt-markers,  each lo.ooto    25-00 

Sleeve  forms  (per  set  2),  each 4.00 

Scissors — 

Straight  cutting,  per  dozen 3 .  oo  to      6 .  oo 

"       shears,  per  dozen 5.00  to    10.00 

Button-hole,  per  dozen 4 . 80  to      6 .  oo 

Tables— 

For  conference  purposes,  each    ....  20.00  to  200.00 

Ironing — ready-made,  each i .  50  to      5 .  oo 

Ironing,  made  to  order  with  wood  top, 
4x2   ft.,  according  to  size  and  finish, 

each lo.ooto    15.00 

Kitchen  tables,  5  ft,  each 2.00  to      3.00 

Folding  sewing  tables,  each    .     .     .     .    .  i .  oo  to      3 .  oo 


THE  ECONOMICS  OF  DOMESTIC  ART  97 

Drafting  tables  made  to  order — 7  ft.  long 
by  3  ft.  wide  by  2  ft.  8  in.  high,  white 

wood  top,  oak  base,  each 15.00  to    18.00 

Drafting  tables,  removable  tops  and  horses 

for  support,  each lo.ooto    12.00 

Sewing-tables  made  to  order,  oak,  6  ft. 

long  by  2  ft.  4  in.  high,  each  .     .     .     .  13.50 

Tape  measures,  reversible,  per  dozen  ...  .  40  to        .60 

Tracing  wheels,  per  dozen i .  oo  to      4 .  oo 

Thimbles,  German  silver,  by  gross     ...  3 . 90 

Wire-cutters,  side-cutting,  per  dozen  .     .     .  4 .  oo  to      6 .  oo 

Waist- and  coat-hangers,  per  dozen    .     .     .  .36  to      i.oo 

Yard-sticks,  per  dozen i .  50  to      3 .  oo 


Illustrative  material  is  rather  difficult  to  collect. 

The  teacher  of  domestic  art  must  be  alert  and  seize 

every  available  opportunity  for  getting 

illustrative        it.     Many  articles  may  be  easily  ob- 

material.  ... 

tamed  while  travelling  and  through 
interesting  in  the  work  the  people  one  meets. 
Expositions  furnish  opportunity  for  securing  mate- 
rial which  will  often  be  sold  for  little  after  the  expo- 
sition is  over.  Large  manufactories  sometimes 
make  boxes  for  sale  illustrating  the  steps  in  the 
manufacture  of  various  materials  such  as  thread, 
needles,  scissors,  buttons,  cotton,  woollen,  linen,  or 
silk  materials.  These  will  often  be  made  to  order, 
but  cost  considerably  more.  The  illustrative  boxes 


9&  DOMESTIC  ART 

range  in  price  from  $2.50  to  $10.00  each.  Through 
correspondence  with  large  museums  an  exchange  or 
purchase  of  articles  may  be  made.  Very  often,  too, 
it  is  possible  to  have  models  made  similar  to  those 
seen  in  the  museums,  which  are  often  copies  of 
originals.  The  domestic-art  teachers  should  always 
be  on  the  lookout  for  pictures  and  clippings  from 
newspapers  and  magazines.  These  may  be  filed 
for  reference  and  often  prove  of  great  value. 

The   salaries   of   teachers   of   domestic   art   vary 

according    to    locality    and    the    demands    made. 

Teachers  in  the  elementary  school  re- 

Salaries. 

ceive  from  $600  to  $1,200  for  upper 
grade  work.  This  demand  is  most  often  for  a 
teacher  who  can  combine  the  teaching  of  sewing 
and  cooking.  When  the  system  is  a  large  one  the 
demand  is  for  separate  teachers  for  each  specialty. 
Supervisors  of  domestic  art  in  the  elementary  school 
receive  from  $800  to  $3,000,  and  sometimes  more 
if  the  system  is  a  large  one.  The  duties  vary 
with  locality  and  conditions.  Often  the  domestic- 
art  supervisor  directs  the  industrial  work  of  the 
lower  grades  which  is  taught  by  the  grade  teacher, 
and  does  the  actual  teaching  in  the  upper  grades. 
Again  the  duties  may  be  supervision  of  all  the  grades. 


THE   ECONOMICS   OF  DOMESTIC  ART  99 

In  other  localities  the  domestic-art  teacher  does  not 
control  the  industrial  work  of  the  lower  grades;  it 
may  be  under  the  direction  of  the  manual  training 
or  arts  supervisor.  The  ideal  condition  is  super- 
vision only  of  the  upper  grade  work  for  girls  in 
either  cooking  or  sewing  or  both.  This  is  quite 
enough  for  any  one  person  to  do  well. 

The  salaries  of  teachers  in  high  schools  range 
from  $900  to  $2,000,  according  to  kind  of  work  and 
length  of  service.  Directors  of  •departments  in  high 
schools  receive  from  $1,500  to  $2,000. 

In  trade  schools  teachers  receive  from  $800  to 
$1,200,  directors  of  departments  from  $1,200  to 
$1,800,  and  school  directors  from  $2,000  to  $3,000. 

In  higher  institutions,  colleges  for  women,  State 
agricultural  colleges,  and  normal  schools,  the 
salaries  vary  from  $1,200  to  $3,500,  according  to 
responsibility. 


CHAPTER  VII 

HOW  TO  KEEP  IN  TOUCH  WITH  PROGRESS  IN  THE 
DOMESTIC-ART  FIELD 

THE  writer  has  often  been  asked  if  domestic  art 
can  be  studied  by  correspondence.  The  answer  has 
always  been,  "No,  not  to  advantage."  It  may 
often  happen,  however,  that  a  teacher  has  been 
forced  into  this  field  of  work,  or  is  not  quite  ready 
to  go  to  a  normal  school  for  study,  and  in  the  mean 
time  may  wish  to  come  in  touch  with  some  of  the 
subjects.  There  are  many  lines  of  work  in  this 
field,  and  the  teacher  of  domestic  art,  if  she  is  to  do 
the  best  kind  of  work,  should  know  something  about 
psychology,  the  history  of  education,  and  the  theory 
and  method  of  presenting  this  subject,  as  well  as  the 
more  technical  work  of  sewing,  dressmaking,  and 
millinery.  A  selected  bibliography  of  these  subjects 
will  be  added  later;  much  help  and  information  may 
also  be  gained  from  current  magazines,  reports  of 
associations,  etc.,  all  of  which  will  help  the  teacher 
in  the  field  to  keep  in  touch  with  the  latest  ideas 
and  movements. 

100 


PROGRESS   IN   THE   DOMESTIC-AR^  TIET^D;  :  '<r&l, 
ASSOCIATIONS   AND   THEIR  REPORTS 

The  annual  reports  of  the  following  associations 
are  of  particular  help  and  can  be  had  by  becoming 
a  member  of  the  associations,  or  by  buying  them 
from  the  secretaries  of  these  associations: 

(1)  National    Education    Association.     Member- 
ship $2.00.     Irwin  Shepherd,  Winona,  Wis.     Gen- 
eral educational  papers  of  the  annual  meetings  are 
published  in  this  report.     All  are  of  help,  the  reports 
of  the  sections  on  trade  and  industrial  work  espe- 
cially. 

(2)  Lake  Placid  Conference  on  Home  Economics, 
Lake  Placid  Club,  Essex  County,  N.  Y.     Annual 
report  of  papers  read  at  yearly  meeting,  also  of  the 
teachers'  section,  a  mid- winter  conference.     These 
are  of  particular  value  to  teachers  of  domestic  art 
and  science.     (This  conference  ceased  with  the  or- 
ganization of  the  American  Home  Economics  Asso- 
ciation in  January,  1909.     Back  reports  are  of  much 
help.) 

(3)  American  Home  Economics  Association,  mem- 
bership $2.00;  includes  journal  published  bimonthly, 
Teachers  College,  New  York.     Of  interest  to  all 
classes  of  workers  in  the  field  of  home  economics. 

(4)  Public  Education  Association  of  New  York, 
105  East  Twenty-second  Street,  Room  520. 


I02/;  DOMESTIC   ART 

(5)  Society  for  the  Promotion  of  Industrial  Edu- 
cation.    Literature    may    be    obtained    from    Mr. 
Jas.   C.   Monaghan,   Secretary,   546  Fifth  Avenue, 
New  York  City. 

(6)  Eastern    Manual    Training    Teachers'  Asso- 
ciation. 

(7)  Western    Manual    Training    and    Drawing 
Teachers'  Association. 

(8)  Consumers'  League.     Reports  of  national  and 
New  York  City  Leagues  may  be  obtained  on  appli- 
cation  at    office,    105   East   Twenty-second  Street, 
New  York  City.     The  aim  of  this  league  is  to  im- 
prove conditions  of  working  women  and  children 
as  to  hours,  wages,  etc. 

(9)  Woman's  Municipal  League  of  New  York, 
19  East  Twenty-sixth  Street.     Bulletin  50  cents  per 
year.     A  society  interested  in  civic  improvements. 

OTHER   PUBLICATIONS 

I.     Magazines: 

(1)  "Teachers  College  Record."     $1.00  per  year. 
Address    "  Teachers    College    Record,"    Columbia 
University,  New  York.     Devoted  to  discussion  of 
educational  problems. 

(2)  "  Elementary  School  Teacher."     Published  by 
University  of  Chicago  Press,  Chicago.     $1.50.     De- 
voted to  discussion  of  all  phases  of  work  of  the  ele- 
mentary school. 


PROGRESS   IN  THE   DOMESTIC-ART  FIELD        103 

/  j) 

(3)  "Manual  Training  Magazine."     $1.50.    Pub- 
lished   bimonthly   by   Manual  Arts   Press,    Peoria, 
111.     Devoted  to  discussion  of  industrial-arts  subjects. 

(4)  "The  Survey/'  formerly  "Charities  and  the 
Commons."     $2.00  per  year.     Published  by  Charity 
Organization    Society,    Twenty-second    Street    and 
Fourth  Avenue,  New  York  City.     Deals  with  prob- 
lems relating  to  the  education  and  improvement  of 
the  poor.     All  interested  in  philanthropic  work  and 
social  advancement  will  find  this  of  great  value. 

(5)  "The    Craftsman."     $3.00    per    year.     Pub- 
lished by  Gustav  Stickley,   41  West   Thirty-fourth 
Street,  New  York  City.     Of  help  along  art  lines. 
Many  suggestions  for  interior  decoration  and  design. 

(6)  "The  School  Arts   Book."     $1.50  per  year. 
Published   by   Davis    Press,   Worcester,    Mass.     A 
practical   magazine   for   the   elementary   and   high 
school,  with  many  suggestions  for  applied  design, 
and   many   articles   of   value   to   the    domestic-art 
teacher. 

(7)  "The    House    Beautiful."     $1.75    per    year. 
Suggestive  for  those   interested   in  the  crafts  and 
interior  decoration. 

(8)  "  The  Ladies'  Home  Journal."   $1.50  per  year. 
Published  by  Curtis   Publishing  Company,   Phila- 
delphia. 

(9)  "The  Woman's  Home   Companion."     $1.25 
per  year.    Many  suggestions  in  art  needlework,  sew- 


104  DOMESTIC   ART 

ing,  and  dressmaking.     Published  by  Crowell  Pub- 
lishing Company,  New  York  City. 

(9)  "  Good  Housekeeping."     $1.50  per  year.  Pub- 
lished by  Phelps  Publishing  Company,  Springfield, 
Mass.     Articles  of  interest  in  relation  to  dress  and 
good  housekeeping  generally. 

(10)  "The   Outlook."     $3.00      per      year.     287 
Fourth  Avenue,  New  York  City. 

(n)  "The  Educational  Review."  $3.00  per  year. 
Published  by  Educational  Review  Company,  Colum- 
bia University,  New  York  City.  Devoted  to  discus- 
sion of  topics  of  general  interest  in  educational  field. 

II.     Government  Reports: 

United  States  Department  of  Agriculture: 

(1)  "Farmer's  Bulletins."     Free  distribution  with 
some  exceptions.     Address,  Division  of  Publications. 
Washington,  D.  C.     Of  great  value  to  students  of 
domestic  art  and  science.     Many  papers  on  wool, 
silk,  cotton,  sheep,  etc.,  of  value  in  study  of  textiles. 

(2)  "Annual  Reports  of  the  Department  of  Agri- 
culture."    Division    of    Publications,    Washington, 
D.  C.     Textile  crops  and  experiments  are  treated  in 
these  reports,  as  well  as  other  agricultural  reports. 

(3)  "  Reports  of  the  Smithsonian  Institute,"  Wash- 
ington, D.  C.     The  reports  on  ethnological  subjects 
of  value  in  study  of  primitive  life,  industries,  and 
textiles. 


PROGRESS   IN   THE  DOMESTIC- ART  FIELD        105 

(4)  "Reports  of  the  Commissioner  of  Education," 
Department   of   the   Interior,   Washington,    D.    C. 
These  are  issued  every  few  years,  and  are  of  great 
value  to   students  of  education   in  general,   or  of 
particular  fields. 

(5)  "Reports  of  the  United  States  Commissioner 
of  Labor,"  Washington,  D.  C.     Of  value  to   those 
interested    in    problems    of    economics,    the    wage- 
earner,  etc.     Some  of  the  back  numbers  are  of  great 
interest    and    value,    especially    on    technical    and 
industrial  education. 

III.  Foreign  Publications: 

"Reports' of  Dr.  M.  Sadler  for  the  English  Gov- 
ernment." Volumes  X  and  XI  are  devoted  to  his 
Study  of  American  Education.  Volume  IX,  German 
Education.  May  be  obtained  from  G.  Seiler, 
1228  Amsterdam  Avenue,  New  York  City.  Price 
80  cents  each.  Of  value  to  those  wishing  to  study 
the  system  of  schools  of  the  United  States  com- 
paratively. 

"Report  by  Alice  Ravenhill  on  the  Teaching  of 
Domestic  Science  in  the  United  States."  Commis- 
sioner for  Board  of  Education  of  Great  Britain,  1905, 
374  pages,  price  75  cents. 

IV.  Publications  of  the  American  School  of  Home 
Economics:    M.   Le   Bosquet,   Director,   610  West 
Sixty-ninth  Street,  Chicago.    Correspondence  courses 


106  DOMESTIC  ART 

for  home-makers,  teachers,  social  workers,  and  for 
institutional  managers.  Special  text-books  and 
library  facilities. 

V.  Books: 

A  small  selected  bibliography  will  be  added  at  the 
close.  To  keep  in  touch  with  new  publications, 
consult  lists  of  new  books  added  to  respective  public 
libraries.  Send  to  the  leading  book-publishing  con- 
cerns for  their  monthly  lists  of  new  publications, 
especially  along  educational  lines.  Notice  the  adver- 
tisements of  new  books  in  the  back  of  the  current 
educational  magazines  suggested  above. 

VI.  Publications  of  some  of  the  textile  schools 
and  associations  are  of  value  in  study  of  textiles. 

"National  Association  of  Wool  Manufacturers' 
Quarterly  Magazine,"  devoted  to  the  interests  of 
the  National  Wool  Industry.  Office,  683  Atlantic 
Avenue,  Boston,  Mass. 

The  New  England  Cotton  Manufacturers'  Associa- 
tion, International  Trust  Building,  45  Milk  Street, 
Boston,  Mass. 

Draper  Company.  "  Cotton  Chats."  Published 
by  Secretary,  Hopedale,  Mass. 

Lowell  School  publications. 

VII.  Catalogues  of  new  schools,  giving  domestic 
art  and  science  subjects,  may  be  suggestive,  or  those 


PROGRESS   IN   THE   DOMESTIC-ART  FIELD        107 

of  old  schools  of  note,  that  are  constantly  adding 
new  subjects  of  interest  along  these  lines. 

Another  means  of  keeping  in  touch  with  progress 
in  this  field  is  by  attending  the  annual  meetings  of 
the  educational  associations  mentioned.  Much  in- 
spiration may  be  gained  in  this  way.  School  exhibits 
are  also  of  great  help,  and  the  educational  divisions 
of  State  fairs  or  expositions  furnish  many  sugges- 
tions. The  teacher  of  domestic  art  must  be  alert  and 
alive  to  all  progress  of  events  about  her.  Clubs  of 
teachers  interested  in  domestic-art  subjects  may 
meet  for  discussion  and  much  benefit  be  derived  if 
the  meetings  are  conducted  seriously  and  systemat- 
ically. 


PART  II 

DOMESTIC    ART    IN    THE    £LEMENTARY 
SCHOOL 


CHAPTER  VIII 

DIVISION    OF  SUBJECT-MATTER  FOR  THE  ELE- 
MENTARY SCHOOL 

SOME  line  of  domestic-art  work  may  be  presented 
in  every  grade  of  the  elementary  school.  As  it  is 
constructive  generally  placed  in  the  school  curricu- 
Wi°eninneari  ^um  ^  means  sewing  and  its  allied  sub- 
every  grade,  jects,  or  often  sewing  alone  in  the 
fifth,  sixth,  seventh,  and  eighth  years  of  the  graded 
school. 

Some  constructive  work  of  an  industrial  nature  is 
now  generally  given  in  all  grades  of  the  elementary 
school.  Arguments  for  its  introduction  have  already 
been  given.  Froebel  in  the  kindergarten  has  pre- 
sented theories  that  may  well  be  advanced  along 

higher  lines  of  education.     Hand-work  and  doing 

1 08 


DIVISION   OF   SUBJECT-MATTER  109 

are  the  keystones  of  the  kindergarten  work.  The 
paper-cutting,  pasting,  sewing,  clay,  all  the  various 
occupations  are  avenues  for  self-expression  as  well 
as  the  gifts,  songs,  and  games  which  furnish  further 
opportunity  for  doing  and  thinking,  or  the  self- 
activity  of  the  child. 

When  the  child  enters  the  kindergarten  and  begins 
his  school  career,  he  faces  the  accumulation  of  the 
knowledge  of  the  world.  All  this  is  his  inheritance 
to  which  he  has  a  right.  The  work  of  education  is 
to  bring  the  child  to  his  rightful  possession  of  this 
inheritance,  and  the  work  of  the  school  to  plan  it 
in  such  a  way  that  the  school  as  one  institution 
of  society  may  do  its  share  in  bringing  about  this 
education.  The  kindergarten  is  the  first  stepping- 
stone  and  through  its  various  lines  of  work — games, 
songs,  stories,  gifts,  and  occupations — opens  to  the 
mind  of  the  child  in  a  simple  way  some  of  the  won- 
ders of  nature  and  of  this  complex  world.  The 
point  of  contact  is  the  home  and  the  teacher  leads 
from  this  to  the  world  of  thought  and  action  about 
the  child.  Most  of  the  interpretations  are  through 
doing,  and  gradually  the  child  is  led  to  a  compre- 
hension of  some  of  life's  complexities.  One  may 
say  that  domestic  art  almost  begins  in  the  kinder- 


110  DOMESTIC  ART 

garten  in  a  most  simple  way.  Sewing  and  use  of 
the  needle  is  one  of  its  occupations.  Furnishing  of 
a  doll's  house  with  paper  furniture,  rugs,  curtains, 
etc.,  is  often  undertaken,  and  simple  talks  in  the 
morning  circle  on  textiles,  as  wool,  silk,  linen,  and 
cotton,  often  introduce  the  child  to  this  field  of 
thought.  Paper  and  rag  weaving  also  furnish 
another  occupation  and  so  we  may  trace  the  begin- 
nings of  domestic  art  from  early  to  higher  education. 
Here,  it  is  hand- work  and  only  one  of  the  many 
kinds  presented  to  little  children  who  need  change 
and  variety.  The  transition  from  kindergarten  to 
early  grade  work  is  often  fraught  with  danger 
because  the  transition  to  more  formal  work  is  not 
more  gradual.  Hand-work  and  domestic  art  as  one 
branch  of  it  should  still  continue  and  advance  with 
the  child,  offering  new  interests  and  difficulties  and 
helping  to  lead  him  to  an  interpretation  of  some 
of  the  many  wonders  in  the  industrial  world  about 
him. 

Hand-work  in  the  elementary  school  has  been 
presented  in  many  different  ways.  There  have  been 
almost  as  many  approaches  as  there  are  districts 
or  localities  for  its  introduction.  Hand-work  as 
the  term  is  now  generally  used  in  the  elementary 


DIVISION   OF   SUBJECT-MATTER  in 

schoOiS  means  the  various  lines  of  hand-work  as  in- 
troduced in  the  first  four  grades  of  the  elementary 

school.  From  the  fifth  grade  up,  the 
ods  of  ap-  hand-work  subjects  are  called  specifi- 

ca%  cooking,  sewing,  etc.,  for  the  girls, 


work  for  the      anj  Ofaer  }ines  of  work,  as  wood-work- 

lower  grades. 

ing,  wood-carving,  etc.,  for  the  boys. 
All  of  these  subjects  are  of  an  industrial  or  house- 
hold arts  nature. 

The  industrial  work  of  the  lower  grades  may  in- 

clude many  lines  of  domestic-art  thought,  but  should 

not  be  confined  to  these  subjects.     The 

Industrial 

work  in  lower     ideals  of  the  school  or  the  plan  of  the 


curriculum  of  each  grade  will  determine 
domestic-art  iargeiy  wnat  and  how  much  the  teacher 

branches.  J 

can  present.  In  the  presentation  of 
certain  lines  of  thought,  the  media  of  clay  and  wood 
may  more  fitly  be  expressive  than  some  line  of  do- 
mestic art,  as  sewing,  weaving,  or  spinning.  Hand- 
work as  it  is  now  given  in  the  schools  is  approached 
from  several  points  of  view.  Some  claim  that  the  so- 
called  neighborhood  approach  is  the  only  way,  and 
work  along  lines  which  make  the  child's  immediate 
needs  and  interests  the  centre  or  basis  for  planning. 
Others  claim  that  the  organization  of  hand-work  in 


112  DOMESTIC   ART 

the  lower  grades  should  be  planned  along  the  lines 
of  social  or  racial  development,  and  beginning  with 
the  study  of  the  activities  of  primitive  people  trace 
their  advancement  through  the  different  eras  of 
civilization,  pastoral,  agricultural,  handicraft,  and 
factory  eras.  Another  thought  is  that  the  child 
should  become  acquainted  with  the  essential  proc- 
esses of  manufacture  in  the  principal  fields  of  modern 
industry  and  that  this  industrial  knowledge  may  be 
presented  partly  through  work  with  the  hands,  but 
not  entirely  so.  This  curriculum  should  be  worked 
out  by  the  grade  teacher  or  head  of  the  school  so 
that  there  may  be  as  much  unity  of  thought  as  pos- 
sible and  much  saving  of  time.  With  the  develop- 
ment of  this  thought  may  come  a  simplified  cur- 
riculum. With  the  present  stress  put  on  vocational 
training,  the  domestic-art  phases  of  vocational  work 
for  girls  in  the  upper  grades  would  be  based  on  this 
lower  grade  study  of  the  essential  processes  of  the 
leading  fields  of  industry.  The  girls  would  thus 
have  a  knowledge  of  the  textile  field  of  industry  and 
the  processes  in  the  industries  of  spinning,  weaving, 
knitting,  garment-construction,  and  sewing. 

In    some   schools   the   hand-work    is   apparently 
introduced  in  a  hit-or-miss  sort  of  manner,  simply 


DIVISION   OF   SUBJECT-MATTER  113 

because  it  is  hand-work  or  something  for  the  chil- 
dren to  do  and  it   is  required   by  the  controlling 
board.     This    is   the   "fad"    so    often 

Hand- work 

may  be  a  mere  objected  to  and  rightly.  This  aimless 
hand-work  may  be  better  than  none  and 
undoubtedly  is  where  it  has  a  certain  utilitarian  value, 
but  there  is  scarcely  any  excuse  for  its  being  when  it 
is  possible  to  present  it  in  such  a  way  as  to  connect 
the  thought  of  the  development  of  industries  with 
it,  whether  the  approach  be  from  the  neighbor- 
hood point  of  view  or  along  certain  lines  of  primi- 
tive life  and  industries.  In  the  first  four  grades  of 
the  elementary  school  many  lines  of  industrial 
thought  may  be  given,  to  which  the  domestic-art 
branches  contribute  quite  a  number.  Little  chil- 
dren need  change  and  variety,  and  the  boys  and  girls 
may  be  taught  together  during  these  early  years. 
There  is  every  opportunity  for  originality  and  ver- 
satility as  the  teacher  works  out  her  course  of  study. 
This  often  falls  to  the  domestic-art  supervisor,  but 
more  often  to  the  supervisor  of  manual  training. 
The  course  of  study  should  be  worked  out  in  con- 
nection with  the  general  curriculum  and  in  con- 
sultation with  the  grade  teachers  and  head  of  the 
school.  With  more  ideal  organization  the  develop- 


114  DOMESTIC  ART 

ment  of  industrial  thought  may  be  a  part  of  the 
work  of  the  regular  grade  teacher  and  the  constructive 
hand- work  phases  of  the  work  be  given  by  her  also. 
The  following  outline  may  be  suggestive  of  the 
many  lines  of  work  from  which  choice  may  be  made 
in  carrying  out  one's  plans.  If,  for  instance,  the  first- 
grade  children  are  to  have  home  life  and  its  sur- 
rounding occupations  for  the  central  thought,  many 
of  the  various  lines  might  be  used.  In  planning  and 
furnishing  a  doll's  house  in  a  simple  way,  painting, 
papering  of  the  soap  boxes,  simple  furniture,  sewing 
of  curtains,  bedding,  etc.,  give  opportunity  for  expres- 
sion along  many  different  lines.  A  study  of  primitive 
Esquimaux  life,  on  the  other  hand,  might  require  clay, 
for  making  the  animals  and  dogs,  men,  etc.,  wood 
for  the  sleds,  and  simple  sewing  for  the  garments 
representing  fur.  At  the  same  time  there  may  be 
begun  the  study  of  the  modern  industrial  processes. 
These  lines  of  work  give  to  these  little  people  an 
introduction  to  the  great  fields  of  industry  of  wood, 
clay,  food,  and  textiles.  Metal  is  too  difficult  for 
use  in  the  lower  grades.  The  approach  which  shall 
be  followed  must  be  decided  by  each  school  and 
worked  out  along  lines  most  in  keeping  with  the 
ideals  of  that  school.  Each  teacher  must  choose  the 


DIVISION   OF   SUBJECT-MATTER  115 

lines  of  work  best  adapted  to  help  in  presenting  the 
new  ideas  to  the  children  and  those  fitted  to  be  of 
value  in  developing  the  child.  This  last,  however, 
is  more  largely  a  question  of  method  than  of  se- 
lection of  subject-matter. 

WORK   FOR  LOWER   GRADES 

Painting  Coarse  sewing 

Drawing  Dyeing,  weaving 

Paper  cutting  and  folding  Clay  modelling 

Pasting  Cardboard 

Simple  woodwork  Use  of  sand  table 

Stencilling  and  block  printing  Cooking 

Selections  should  be  made  from  these  and  adapted 
to  the  children  in  carrying  out  the  general  thought  of 
the  grade  and  in  the  planning  of  the  course  of  study 
for  the  lower  grades. 

These  general  lines  of  work  include  the  domestic- 
art  subjects,  which  may  be  outlined  more  in  detail 
as  follows: 

DOMESTIC-ART   SUBJECTS   FOR   THE  ELEMENTARY 
SCHOOL 

The  following  subjects  for  all  grades  of  the  ele- 
mentary school  may  be  considered  for  selection  in 
the  planning  of  work,  regulated  by  age,  grade,  needs 


Il6  DOMESTIC  ART 

of  locality,  cost,   ideals,   relation  to  school  study, 
needs  of  home  and  schools,  etc. : 

(1)  Articles  of  many  varieties  may  be  made  by 
the  use  of  the  following  stitches:    Basting,  running, 
stitching,    back-stitching,    overhanding,    hemming, 
blanket  stitch,  simple  embroidery  stitches,  as  Ken- 
sington, cross,  chain  stitch,  feather  stitch,  hemstitch, 
couching,  French  knots,  etc. 

(2)  Seams — plain  seam,  French,  and  flat  fell. 

(3)  Patching — hemmed,  overhanded,  flannel;  and 
Darning — stocking  darning,  damask,  and  cashmere. 

(4)  Button-holes,  plackets,  putting  on  bands. 

(5)  Simple   embroidery:    use  of  stitches — chain, 
catch,  Kensington,  feather,  etc.;   initials — embroid- 
ered, applique;  couching,  etc. 

(6)  Textile  work :  weaving,  study  of  materials,  evo- 
lution of  textile  industry,  properties,  uses,  dyeing,  etc. 

(7)  Cost  of  clothing :  cost  of  dresses  and  trimming ; 
regulation  of  cost. 

(8)  Care  of  clothing,  repairing,  cleansing ;  color  of 
clothing;  hygiene. 

(9)  Household    art:     decoration,    furnishing    of 
rooms,  color- work,  design. 

(10)  Simple  garment-making  (under  certain  con- 
ditions). 

(n)  Co-operation  with  grade  work  in  history, 
arithmetic,  English,  art,  geography,  etc.,  wherever  it 
can  be  done  with  service. 


DIVISION   OF   SUBJECT-MATTER  117 


DISTRIBUTION  OF  DOMESTIC-ART  SUBJECT-MATTER 

FOR   SELECTION  AS   PART   OF   THE   ABOVE 

WORK   FOR   LOWER   GRADES 

Grades  i  and  2 

(1)  Making  of  simple  articles,   in  keeping  with 
underlying  ideals  of  the  school  and  grade.     Blanket 
stitch    on    canvas,    running,    basting    (applied    to 
articles) . 

(2)  Simple  textile  study,  including  dyeing,  weav- 
ing, and  simple  comparison  of  textiles.  ' 

(3)  Care  of  clothing. 

(4)  Furnishing  of  doll's  house. 

(5)  Christmas  gifts. 

Grade  3 

(1)  Making  of  simple  articles   in  keeping  with 
underlying  ideals,  using  following  stitches:   Blanket, 
cross,  running,  basting,  chain,  and  stitching  stitch. 

(2)  Continuation  of  textile  study — simple  evolu- 
tion   of    spinning    and    weaving.     Comparison    of 
textiles. 

(3)  Care  of  clothing. 

(4)  Designing  of  letters  and  other  designs,  accord- 
ing to  articles  selected. 

(5)  Christmas  gifts. 


Il8  DOMESTIC  ART 

Grade  4 

(1)  Making  of  simple  articles  in  keeping  with 
underlying  ideals,  using  following  stitches:    Hem- 
ming, couching,  overhanding,  two  runs  and  back- 
stitch, in  addition  to  stitches  in  Grade  3. 

(2)  Designs  made  for  articles ;  color-work;  design- 
ing pillows  and  table-spreads  for  applique. 

(3)  Doll  dressing;  free  cutting  of  patterns. 

(4)  Christmas  gifts. 

(5)  Simple  crocheting  and  upholstery. 

Crude  work  along  all  these  lines  should  be  ex- 
pected from  young  children,  but  the  teacher  should 
not  be  surprised  if  occasionally  she  receives  unex- 
pected results.  An  occasional  child  will  contribute 
something  far  beyond  those  of  average  ability,  but 
under  no  circumstance's  should  the  children  be 
forced  to  do  fine  or  accurate  work. 

By  the  time  the  fifth  grade  is  reached  greater 
accuracy  should  be  expected  and  demanded  along 
any  line  of  hand- work  pursued.  If  it  is  not  de- 
manded at  this  time,  the  pupils  will  form  slovenly 
habits  of  action  which  are  not  likely  to  be  corrected 
later.  At  this  point  the  hand-work  may  be  divided, 
the  girls  receiving  instruction  in  sewing  and  cooking 
and  the  allied  subjects,  and  the  boys  in  woodwork, 
metal,  etc.  If  the  plan  is  to  introduce  vocational 
work  in  the  seventh,  eighth,  and  ninth  grades,  then 


DIVISION  OF   SUBJECT-MATTER  1 19 

the  first  six  years  may  be  planned  with  this  idea  in 
view.  Plans  for  courses  of  study  in  the  grades  will 
be  discussed  in  another  chapter  on  the  factors 
involved  in  planning  a  course  of  study. 


DISTRIBUTION  OF  DOMESTIC-ART  SUBJECT-MATTER 

FOR    SELECTION    FOR    THE    FIFTH,    SIXTH, 

SEVENTH,   AND   EIGHTH   GRADES 

Grade  5 

(1)  Making  of  simple  articles,  using  stitches  pre- 
viously learned  as  review,  and  in  addition:    cross 
stitch,  feather  stitch,  and  Kensington  stitch. 

(2)  Designs  for  articles  made. 

(3)  Doll  dressing  (costumes  of  particular  study  or 
for  modern  garment-construction). 

(4)  Textile  study ;  weaving  of  rugs  as  co-operative 
work,  in  order  to  learn  parts  of  loom. 

(5)  Christmas  gifts. 

(6)  Simple  embroidery. 

Grade  6 

(i)  Making  of  articles,  using  stitches  learned  in 
grades  below,  and  in  addition:  French  seam,  placket, 
and  putting  on  band,  button-holes,  and  stocking- 
darning. 


120  DOMESTIC  ART 

(2)  Textile    study — comparative    study   of   wool, 
cotton,  silk,  and  flax,  applied  to  purchase,  use,  etc., 
of  articles  made. 

(3)  Designing  for  articles. 

(4)  Clothing — best  and  most  healthful  kinds. 

(5)  Christmas  gifts. 

(6)  Simple  embroidery. 

(7)  Biography  of  textile  inventors — Eli  Whitney, 
Arkwright,  Crompton,  etc. 

(8)  Simple   machine-work    (where   circumstances 
would  necessitate  the  child's  leaving  school  at  end 
of  elementary  school  course). 

(9)  Simple  knitting. 

Grade  7 

(1)  Making  of  articles  using  work  of  other  grades 
in  review,  and  in  addition:    button-holes,  herring- 
bone and  feather  stitch. 

(2)  Simple  embroidery. 

(3)  Christmas  gifts. 

(4)  Textile  study:    discussion  of  early  industries 
and  evolution  of  their  manufacture. 

(5)  Economical  buying  and  cutting  of  materials. 

(6)  Design — in  relation  to  things  made. 

(7)  Simple   machine-work    (where   circumstances 
would  necessitate  the  child's  leaving  school  at  end  of 
elementary  school  course). 

(8)  Crocheting  of  articles. 


DIVISION   OF   SUBJECT-MATTER  12 1 

Grade  8 

(1)  Making  of  articles,  using  stitches  previously 
learned. 

(2)  Repairing,  patching,  and  cleansing  of  garments. 

(3)  Making  simple  garments. 

(4)  Simple  embroidery:   towels  and  table  linen- 
initials,  hemstitching — doilies. 

(5)  Textile  study:  quality,  width,  cost  of  materials. 

(6)  Study  in  color  and  design  applied. 

(7)  Christmas  gifts. 

(8)  The  home — furnishings,  order,  beauty. 

(9)  Discussion  of  the  relation  of  the  girl  to  factory 
life,    sweatshop    labor.     Consumers7    League,    etc. 
Development  of  social  consciousness. 

The  subject-matter  suggested  for  Grades  6,  7,  and 
8  may  be  too  advanced  for  some  localities  and  not 
sufficiently  so  for  others.  This  should  be  adjusted 
to  suit  needs  and  would  also  depend  on  how  many 
years  may  be  devoted  to  domestic-art  study. 

REFERENCES  FOR  STUDY 

"A  Sewing  Course,"  Woolman.     1910  edition. 

"Teachers  College  Records."  November,  1901;  Janu- 
ary, 1906;  September,  1906;  January,  1907;  May,  1907. 

Courses  of  Study  of  Public  School  Systems. 

"The  Place  of  Industries  in  Elementary  Education,"  K.  E. 
Dopp. 

"The  School  and  Industrial  Life,"  James  Earl  Russell, 
"Educational  Review,"  December,  1909. 


CHAPTER  IX 

THE    FACTORS    INVOLVED   IN   PLANNING  A 

COURSE   OF  DOMESTIC-ART  WORK   FOR 

THE  ELEMENTARY  SCHOOL 

BEFORE  a  teacher  can  decide  what  is  the  most 

valuable  and  profitable  domestic-art  work  for  the 

children  in  her  charge,  she  must  fully 

The  relation  of 

domestic-art      comprehend  what  is  meant  by  the  many 

subject-matter 

to  general  ed-  lines  of  thought  which  go  to  make  up 
that  mass  of  subject-matter.  Then,  too, 
she  must  understand  the  conditions  or  factors  which 
will  most  assuredly  affect  her  selection  of  material. 
The  subject-matter  of  domestic  art  has  been  fully  dis- 
cussed in  previous  chapters.  The  child  has  a  right  to 
his  inheritance  and  the  possessions  of  learning  which 
have  come  down  to  him  from  past  ages,  from  the 
fields  of  literary,  religious,  scientific,  institutional, 
and  aesthetic  learning.  The  institutions  of  the  home, 
church,  state,  school,  and  society  must  interpret 
these  riches  to  him  and  develop  all  sides  of  the 


122 


THE   FACTORS  INVOLVED  123 

child's  nature.  When  we  examine  the  many 
branches  to  which  he  is  heir,  we  discover  that  the 
field  of  scientific  and  aesthetic  learning,  which  may 
be  interpreted  partly  through  doing,  is  not  the  least 
part  of  his  rightful  inheritance,  for  the  power  to  do 
and  act  is  surely  the  indication  of  a  liberal  educa- 
tion. Domestic  art  is  one  phase  of  the  "doing" 
inheritance  which  comes  to  our  girls  and  but  a  small 
part  of  the  full  inheritance  to  which  they  have  a 
right.  Teachers  of  this  subject  so  often  feel  and 
act  as  if  domestic  art  were  the  whole  curriculum 
and  do  not  see  its  relative  importance.  It  must 
be  given  its  proper  amount  of  time,  but  not  to 
the  neglect  of  other  studies,  and  in  selecting  the 
best  subjects  from  this  field  of  work  for  her  class, 
the  teacher  must  know  not  only  what  the  possi- 
bilities of  subject-matter  are,  but  must  see  their  rela- 
tion to  the  broad  field  of  education  and  the  factors 
which  will  naturally  affect  the  choice  of  material.  As 
subject-matter  has  previously  been  discussed,  we  may 
turn  to  consider  the  factors  involved  in  selection. 
The  teacher  must  know  something  of  the  physical 
and  psychological  nature  of  the  child  be- 

The  child. 

fore  her.  If  she  understands  the  physi- 
cal nature,  she  will  be  careful  to  adapt  her  work  to 


124  DOMESTIC  ART 

the  physical  development  of  the  child.  There  will 
be  no  demand  for  fine  results  where  there  is  not 
the  development  of  the  proper  co-ordination  of 
muscles  to  make  the  fine  adjustments.  The  defects 
of  eyesight  and  any  physical  troubles  will  be  noted 
and  the  work  planned  accordingly.  In  schools  for 
defectives,  this  would  be  a  very  important  factor  in 
planning  any  course.  The  psychical  nature  must 
also  be  considered;  the  laws  governing  interest, 
memory,  apperception,  habits,  etc.,  if  understood, 
will  be  a  guide  to  the  teacher  in  selecting,  planning, 
arranging,  and  presenting  the  course  of  study. 

The  environment  and  locality  will  most  surely 
affect  and  influence  the  planning  of  a  course.  Is  it 
Locality  and  ^Y  to  suppose  that  work  planned  to  be 

environment. 


in  a  district  school  will  be  appropriate  or  of  most 
value  to  children  in  a  select  private  school  or  in  the 
Chinese  or  Italian  quarter  of  a  public  school  system 
of  a  large  city  ?  So  each  course  must  vary  to  meet 
the  needs  of  the  children  for  whom  it  is  intended. 
The  industries  of  the  locality,  the  peculiar  conditions 
of  the  pupils,  environment  at  home  and  at  school, 
all  are  factors  in  determining  what  the  choice  of 
subject-matter  is  to  be.  Each  locality  with  its  par- 


THE   FACTORS  INVOLVED  12$ 

ticular  environment  is  a  law  unto   itself  and   must 
be  handled  so. 

Not  all  schools  are  free  to  spend  the  requisite 

amount   for   the   introduction   of   domestic   art   or 

science.     Some  teachers  are  privileged 

Cost  of  the 

work  and  time    to  expend  twenty-five  cents  per  child  per 

allowed  for  it. 

year,  and  others  are  sometimes  ham- 
pered by  an  allowance  of  a  few  cents.  If  a  teacher 
is  versatile  and  ingenious  she  will  be  able  to  get  the 
very  best  results  with  the  money  allowed.  Some- 
times the  children  may  furnish  certain  materials,  or 
often  they  may  be  obtained  by  soliciting  from  dry- 
goods  houses  odds  and  ends,  samples  of  materials, 
etc.,  all  of  which  can  be  utilized  in  some  way.  The 
money  allowed  by  a  board  or  system  of  education,  if  a 
small  amount,  need  not  necessarily  hamper  the  work. 
Although  the  amount  granted  does  necessarily  enter 
as  a  factor  in  the  planning,  and  does  sometimes 
regulate  the  amount  of  time  to  be  devoted  to  the 
work,  it  need  not  be  the  means  of  producing  a  poor 
course  if  the  teacher  be  ingenious.  It  is  far  more 
economical  for  a  board  to  employ  a  well-trained, 
ingenious  woman  than  one  who  relies  on  a  definite 
sum  of  money  in  order  to  get  certain  results.  Time 
enters  here  as  a  factor  in  planning.  The  arrange- 


126  DOMESTIC  ART 

ment  of  the  course  of  study  will  naturally  be  affected 
by  the  number  of  minutes  or  hours  per  week  to  be 
devoted  to  the  subject  and  the  cost  regulated  some- 
what by  this  allowance. 

The  planning  of  the  course  of  study  is  again 

affected  by  the  ideals  of  the  head  of  the  particular 

school  where  the  work  is  to  be  given. 

Influence  of 

head  of  the        Perhaps  the  teacher  may  not  be  given 

school  on 

domestic-art      the  freedom  to  plan  and  correlate  her 

curriculum.  ,        .  ,      .  f          ,  -, 

work  with  that  of  each  grade,  and  again 
unjust  demands  may  be  made  by  the  head  which  may 
not  be  in  keeping  with  the  right  ideals  for  domestic- 
art  work.  This  problem  must  be  handled  tactfully  by 
the  teacher,  and  she  must  plan  so  as  to  get  the  best 
possible  results  under  the  particular  conditions. 
The  teacher  may  believe  that  in  the  lower  grades 
the  best  approach  for  the  hand-work  is  from  the 
neighborhood  side,  while  the  head  of  the  school 
may  be  deeply  interested  in  industries  or  primitive 
life.  The  teacher  may  wish  the  work  of  the  upper 
grades  to  prove  of  use  in  making  girls  better  home- 
makers,  and  the  head  may  not  feel  the  utilitarian 
value.  The  aim  of  each  particular  elementary 
school  will  surely  differ,  and  the  domestic  art  should 
conform  to  the  aims.  The  aim  of  some  ele- 


THE   FACTORS   INVOLVED  127 

mentary  schools  is  to  send  their  boys  and  girls  on  to 
high  school  to  continue  their  education,  while  others 
realize  that  the  children  of  their  particular  locality  are 
forced  to  labor  when  the  elementary  course  is  com- 
pleted or  even  before,  and  must  be  given  all  the 
possible  help  during  that  short  period.  When  the 
domestic-art  teacher  realizes  the  different  aims,  she 
will  plan  her  work  so  as  to  give  to  each  group  that 
which  will  be  of  greatest  value  as  each  proceeds  into 
business  or  higher  school  work.  This  may  often 
mean  the  introduction,  for  instance,  of  machine-work 
quite  early  in  the  grade  school,  perhaps  in  the 
sixth  or  seventh  year. 

The  introduction  of  vocational  work  into  the 
upper  grades  of  the  elementary  school  is  one  of  the 
vocational  difficult  problems  which  those  dealing 

tendencies  ^1,1  r  i  ,    r 

must  be  con-  wl^h  the  courses  of  study  must  face  in 
sidered.  the  near  future  The  readjustment 

must  surely  come,  considering  the  large  percent- 
age of  children  who  drop  out  of  school  at  the  close  of 
the  elementary  school  and  before,  and  those  who 
continue  their  high  school  training  for  a  short 
period  only — for  one  or  two  years.  The  plan  pro- 
posed by  the  City  Club  of  New  York  for  the  read- 
justment of  the  years  of  study  in  the  New  York 


128  DOMESTIC  ART 

public  schools  is  a  very  interesting  one  and  if  ever 
adopted  will  prove  of  interest  to  those  studying  the 
development  of  education.  The  plan  is  to  divide 
the  twelve  years  of  study  (eight  elementary  and  four 
high  school  years)  into  three  parts: 

(1)  Six  years  of  elementary  school  work. 

(2)  Three  years  of  lower  high  school. 

(3)  Three  years  of  upper  high  school. 

The  majority  of  children  might  then  continue 
through  the  ninth  grade  instead  of  leaving  at  the 
end  of  the  eighth,  a  gain  of  one  year,  the  main  reason 
being  to  drop  out  at  graduation  from  the  eighth 
grade.  Few  children  have  reached  the  compulsory 
school  age  by  the  end  of  the  sixth  grade,  so  that  the 
temptation  to  drop  out  then  would  be  slight.  In 
the  lower  high  school  or  what  would  be  the  seventh, 
eighth,  or  ninth  grades  would  lie  the  opportunity  for 
the  introduction  of  trade  courses,  the  ninth  grade 
offering  both  trade  courses  for  those  who  must  drop 
out  and  also  regular  high  school  subjects  as  at 
present  for  those  who  will  continue.  This  scheme 
is  worthy  of  study  and  has  been  tried  with  excellent 
results  in  some  parts  of  the  Middle  West.  This 
possible  introduction  of  the  vocational  work  as 


THE   FACTORS  INVOLVED  129 

early  as  the  seventh  grade  would  mean  the  read- 
justment of  the  domestic-art  course  of  study,  or  those 
trades  centring  in  the  needle. 

The  social  aspect  of  work  should  also  govern  the 
domestic-art  teacher  in  her  plans.  She  should  know 
The  social  the  home  needs  and  conditions  of  her 
aspect.  particular  children  and  should  see  the 

connection  that  it  is  possible  to  make  with  the 
school.  There  is  a  big  question  of  economy  of  time 
right  here.  It  is  certainly  not  economical  of  the 
pupil's  time  for  a  teacher  to  present  those  things,  for 
instance,  which  the  child  may  be  learning  well  at 
home.  Again,  greater  interest  is  taken  if  the  prob- 
lems to  be  made  are  of  value  in  the  home  or  fit 
into  the  school  needs  of  the  children.  The  social 
needs  of  the  locality  may  afford  opportunity  for  the 
children  to  be  of  help  and  assistance  to  the  hospitals, 
asylums,  etc.,  by  furnishing  certain  work  for  these 
institutions.  In  institutions  of  various  types  the 
needs  may  be  so  great  as  to  furnish  occupation  for 
all  the  domestic-art  pupils.  These  and  other  social 
aspects  should  determine  the  teacher's  plan  of  action. 

The  question  arises  very  often,  who  is  to  direct 
this  work — a  trained  specialist,  or  shall  it  be  left  to 
the  grade  teacher  to  work  out  under  the  direction  of 


130  DOMESTIC  ART 

the  head  of  the  school?   The  answer  to  this  ques- 
tion surely  enters  as  a  factor  in  the  planning  of  the 
hand-work  for  the  lower  grades  and  the 

Who  is  to 

direct  the          household-art  work  of  the  upper  grades. 

domestic  art?  .  . 

The  trained  specialist  is  needed  to  see 
the  breadth  of  the  field  and  to  make  the  proper 
connections,  but  with  training  the  grade  teacher 
may  be  able  to  give  the  industrial  work  of  the 
lower  grades. 

With  these  numerous  factors  before  us  as  influ- 
encing our  plans  and  a  good  understanding  of  the 

what  shall  be    fie^  of  subject-matter  of  domestic  art, 
presented?        there  should  be  no  difficulty  jn  planning 

a  good  course  of  study.  The  question  so  often 
arises,  what  is  the  best  thing  to  present,  what  shall  I 
give  to  my  children?  It  is  easily  answered.  One 
cannot  give  all  of  the  subject-matter  as  outlined,  but 
one  can  choose  from  it  that  which  will  be  of  the 
greatest  possible  help  to  the  group  under  one's  care. 
There  is  another  thought  for  consideration  in  the 
shall  it  be  planning  of  the  course  of  study — shall 
lOTMor*10  that  course  be  a  mere  formal  presenting 
problems  with  f  number  Jf  problems  or  shall  it 

thought 

content?          have  the  thought  content  which  is  to 
make  it  of  greater  value? 


THE  FACTORS  INVOLVED  131 

There  are  two  kinds  of  domestic-art  teachers, 
those  who  teach  only  sewing  or  its  related  subjects 
and  those  who  feel  and  present  the  thought  content 
in  which  this  field  is  so  very  rich.  The  one  teacher 
is  cut  and  dried — the  other  type,  ingenious,  versatile, 
quick,  and  alert.  She  can  accomplish  much  with 
little  means  because  of  the  richness  of  this  field  of 
thought  which  she  knows.  Her  main  aim  is  the 
child,  the  good  of  the  child  or  girl,  to  give  that 
which  is  of  most  value  to  her  in  this  phase  of  her 
education.  This  content  of  the  thought  side  of  the 
work  has  already  been  discussed  under  the  analysis 
of  the  subject-matter.  The  following  outlines  may 
be  suggestive  for  domestic-art  courses,  and  serve  to 
show  the  underlying  thought  content,  the  relation 
to  local  conditions  as  well  as  the  possible  relation- 
ship to  other  grade  work.  Outline  II  gives  only  the 
domestic-art  phase  of  the  industrial  work  for  the 
lower  grades. 


132  DOMESTIC  ART 

OUTLINE  I 

STUDENT  PLAN 

Course  of  Study  for  Grades  1-4,  illustrating  the  use  of 
many  lines  of  hand-work,  of  which  sewing  forms  a  part. 

LOCAL  CONDITIONS 

Location. — Rural  school  in  northern  New  York. 

Instruction. — By  grade  teacher. 

Time. — Twenty  minutes  daily  for  class  work,  but  children 
will  have  spare  time  during  session  and  outside  of  school 
hours  for  completing  work  begun  in  class  lesson. 

Materials. — The  school  board  will  furnish  only  drawing  and 
manila  paper.  It  is  not  interested  in  hand- work  and  will 
allow  no  appropriation  for  other  materials.  The  people 
of  the  district  have  given  no  attention  to  the  subject,  so  the 
teacher  will  have  to  interest  the  children  sufficiently  to  have 
them  contribute  a  little  money  for  materials  which  will  need 
to  be  bought,  and  to  bring  from  home  scraps  of  cloth,  paper, 
etc.,  as  they  are  needed  in  the  work.  The  people  are  farmers 
and  nearly  every  house  will  have  abundance  of  pieces  in  the 
store-room.  Most  of  them  will  also  give  the  children  a  few 
cents  at  a  time  when  they  see  them  much  interested.  The 
teacher  herself  may  have  to  contribute. 

Number. — There  will  be  about  twenty  children  in  the  school. 

Grouping.— Grades  i  and  2  will  work  together.  Grades  3 
and  4  will  work  together. 

AIM 

To  form  taste  for  home  life,  to  arouse  the  aesthetic  faculty, 
to  broaden  the  outlook  on  life. 


THE  FACTORS  INVOLVED  133 

SUBJECTS 

Drawing.— Usually  on  Tuesday  and  Thursday.     Preceding 
Christmas  the  days  may  be  changed  to    accommodate    the 
kind  of  work  being  done.     Paper  furnished  by  school  board, 
colored  crayons  and  pencils  by  the  children. 
Hand-work. — Remaining  three  days. 
Sand  table. 

Paper-folding,  cutting,  construction. 
Simple  sewing  and  weaving. 

GRADES  i  AND  2 

FURNISHING  DOLL'S   HOUSE 

The  greatest  possible  economy  must  be  used,  therefore 
scraps  of  material  which  children  can  bring  from  home — 
without  expense  to  family — must  be  utilized.  All  the  furni- 
ture will  be  made  from  manila  paper,  the  children  varying 
the  style  of  chairs,  etc.,  according  to  the  rooms  and  their 
original  ideas. 

Scissors,  needles,  thread,  thimbles  will  be  brought  from 
home. 

SEPTEMBER 

Drawing. — Grasses  and  fall  flowers — attention  given  to 
direction  and  character  of  growth. 

Sand  table. — Lay  out  farm — hills,  meadows,  fields,  pasture, 
orchard,  pond  or  stream,  sites  for  house,  barns,  etc.,  fences, 
rail  and  wire  (thread  can  be  used  for  wire,  twigs  for  rails  and 
posts) . 

House. — A  good-sized  box  will  be  found  either  at  the  school 
or  among  the  farmers.  Partitions  can  be  put  in  by  older 
children  or  teacher. 


134  DOMESTIC  ART 

Plan  rooms. — Downstairs — parlor,  dining-room,  kitchen; 
upstairs — two  bedrooms. 

Paint.— Outside. 

Inner  walls. — Kitchen — paint — why  ?  Other  rooms — paper. 
Children  can  bring  remnants  of  wall-paper  from  home.  Dis- 
cuss color,  style,  etc.,  most  suitable  to  each  room.  Children 
can  select  from  papers  brought.  Use  either  entire  pattern  or 
selections  as  best  adapted  to  rooms. 

Floors. — Kitchen — paint — easily  cleaned.  Other  rooms — 
stain.  Paints  and  stain  will  probably  have  to  be  bought. 

OCTOBER 

Drawing. — Fruits,  vegetables,  autumn  leaves — work  for 
pleasing  arrangement. 

Furnishing  of  House. — Each  child  can  make  every  article. 
What  are  necessary  may  be  given  to  the  house,  and  the  others 
taken  home.  Those  giving  to  the  house  may  make  a  second 
for  themselves. 

Kitchen. — First,  because  most  important  room  in  farm- 
house. Chairs,  table,  cupboard — fold,  cut,  paste — cut  legs, 
doors.  Stove — use  black  paper  if  possible;  if  not,  mark  for 
lids  and  doors.  Roll  paper  for  pipe. 

Dining-room. — Chairs.     Table. 

NOVEMBER 

Drawing. — Vegetables,  Thanksgiving  subjects  and  illustra- 
tions. Design  borders  for  rugs. 

Sideboard  for  dining-room. 

Rugs. — Weave  square  mat  from  kindergarten  papers.  Plan 
rugs — colors  for  different  rooms,  borders  on  ends,  materials. 

String  small  piece  of  cardboard  with  holes  for  kitchen  rug. 

Warp — heavy  thread  or  yarn. 


THE  FACTORS  INVOLVED  135 

Woof — rags. 

Sand  table. — Story  of  Pilgrims — sea,  rocky  shore,  Plymouth 
Rock,  snow-covered  land,  forest,  ship  on  sea,  etc. 

DECEMBER 

Drawing. — Christmas  subjects  and  illustrations. 

Rugs. — Large  for  floors  of  all  rooms  except  kitchen. 

Looms. — Four  strips  of  wood — tacks  to  hold  warp  threads. 
Sticks  and  tacks  can  be  found  in  any  country  home — older 
children  can  nail  them. 

Dining-room. — Rags  brought  from  home  for  this  rug. 

Parlor. — Some  children  will  have  macrame  cord  at  home,  if 
not,  buy.  Use  for  parlor  rug. 

Bedrooms. — One  of  rags,  one  of  cord. 

String  looms. — Weave — the  rugs  for  the  four  rooms  can  be 
divided  among  the  children  according  to  the  suitableness  of 
the  material  they  bring. 

Christmas  gifts. — Sachet  bag — kindergarten  weaving  papers 
— cotton  filling — powder. 

Calendars. — Cardboard  with  holly  design — tiny  calendar 
pasted  on — tie  with  red  ribbon. 

Toy  Christmas  tree. — Spool  for  standard,  green  tissue  paper 
for  trunk  and  leaves. 

School  Christmas  tree. — Colored  paper  chains. 

JANUARY 

Drawing. — Christmas  scenes,  stories,  and  gifts.  Winter 
games  and  sports. 

Doll  House. — Bedrooms. — bedsteads,  chairs,  washstands, 
bureaus,  one  cradle. 

Mattresses. — Pillows — heavy  cotton  cloth — fill  with  cotton 
batting — running  stitch. 


136  DOMESTIC  ART 

Talks  on  cotton  plant  and  manufacture. 
Sheets. — Fine  cotton — run  hems. 


FEBRUARY 

Drawing. — Illustrate  stories — subjects  relating  to  Lincoln 
and  Washington. 

Doll  House. — (i)  Pillow  cases. — Fine  cotton — run  hems — 
care  of  mattress  and  pillows. 

(2)  Blankets. — White  flannel  from  home — blanket  stitch  in 
mercerized  cotton  or  yarn  as  children  may  have. 

Care  of  blankets. 

(3)  Wool. — Growth,  manufacture. 

(4)  Comfortable. — Cheesecloth — blanket  stitch  edges — tie. 
Valentines. — Make  simple  valentines  from  drawing-paper 

and  colored  paper  for  decoration. 

MARCH 

Drawing. — Illustrated  stories — objects  of  the  season,  kites, 
etc. 

Doll  House. — Bureau  scarfs  and  washstand  covers  fancy 
muslins — run  hems. 

Parlor. — Chairs,  table,  couch. 

Couch  cover. — cretonne,  denim,  canvas,  etc.,  as  children 
may  bring.  Blanket  stitch  on  edge. 

Cushions. — Bits  of  silk,  denim,  cretonne,  etc. — fill  with 
cotton — running  stitch. 

APRIL 

Drawing. — Spring  growths — catkins,  pussy-willows,  etc. — 
Easter  lilies,  rabbits,  etc. 

Doll  House. — Window  curtains  for  whole  house — fancy 
muslin  or  net  as  children  may  wish. 


THE   FACTORS  INVOLVED  137 

Table  cloth  and  napkins. — Linen  from  home — run  hems. 
Use  and  care  of. 
Talks  on  flax  and  linen. 

MAY 

Drawing. — Spring  growths — leaves,  flowers. 
Sewing  for  homes. — Napkin  ring — canvas — blanket  stitch 
edge. 

Dust  cloth — cheesecloth — turn — baste — run — proper  use  of. 
Hair  receiver — canvas — blanket  stitch  edges. 

JUNE 

Drawing. — Flowers. 

Drawings  of  April,  May,  and  June  made  on  sheets  of  uni- 
form size — tie  together — children  design  cover. 
Sewing. — Dish  towel — turn — baste,  run — care  of. 

GRADES  3  AND  4 

FOREIGN  HOMES:    INDIAN,  ESQUIMAU,  JAPANESE,  TROPICAL 
SEPTEMBER,  OCTOBER,  NOVEMBER 

Indian  Life 

Drawing. — Plants  with  flowers  or  seeds. 

Relative  position  and  size  of  parts. 

Autumn  leaves,  fruit,  vegetables — good  arrangements. 

Thanksgiving  subjects  and  illustrations — proportion  and 
grouping — objects  from  Indian  life. 

Sand  table. — Indian  village — forest — make  wigwams — 
coarse  canvas  or  bark — decorate  with  juice  from  berries. 

Bows  and  arrows — feather  arrows. 

Dug-out  canoe. 

Birch-bark  canoe. 


138  DOMESTIC  ART 

Snow-shoes. 
Cradle-board. 
Quiver. 
Moccasins. 

Make  and  dress  Indian  doll — heavy  cotton  for  body — stitch 
— fill  with  sawdust — trousers,  coat,  headpiece — running  stitch. 
Weave  Indian  blanket — yarn — heddle. 

DECEMBER-JANUARY 

Tropical  Home 

Drawing. — Christmas  illustrations,  games,  gifts,  stories. 
Life  in  tropical  homes. 

Sand  table. — Palm  trees — green  and  brown  tissue  papers. 

Huts — sticks  wattled  with  raffia  or  hay. 

Weave  mats  of  straw  for  roofs. 

Raffia  braided  mat. 

Hammock  of  cord. 

Christmas  gifts. — Button  bags — denim,  canvas,  cretonne,  as 
children  may  have — stitch  sides,  run  hem  at  top — may  put  on 
design  in  chain  stitch. 

Picture  frame^— cardboard  with  raffia  wound  over  it. 

Calendar — similar  to  those  in  i  and  2. 

School  Christmas  tree — bell  forms  marked,  cut,  strung,  red 
tissue  paper. 

Lanterns — red  paper. 

FEBRUARY 

Esquimau  Home 

Drawing. — Winter  subjects — Lincoln,  Washington — Make 
cover  for  a  Lincoln- Washington  book — make  a  single  valen- 
tine. 


THE  FACTORS  INVOLVED  139 

Sand  table. — Esquimau  village — rock-salt  for  snow.  Dress 
Esquimau  doll  in  bits  of  fur — sled  of  wood. 

Sewing. — Dust  cloth — turn,  baste,  cross-stitch — proper  use 
of. 

MARCH 

Japanese  Home 

Drawing. — Appropriate  to  season — attention  to  grouping — 
Japanese  objects — lantern,  parasol,  fan,  etc. 

Sewing. — Make  kimono  for  doll — seams,  running,  hems, 
chain-stitch. 

Iron-holder. — Denim,  cretonne,  etc.,  as  children  may  have. 
Baste  edge  of  each  side — fold  and  baste  interlining.  Baste 
edges  together.  Blanket  stitch  edge. 

APRIL,   MAY,   JUNE 

Drawing. — Spring  growths.     Easter  cover  for  nature  book. 
Sewing. — Hand  towel — linen — turn,  baste,  run  hems.     Care 
of.     Talks  on  flax  and  linen. 
Bean-bag — heavy  cloth — stitch. 
Textile  charts. 
Window  racks  and  plant  sticks. 

COST  OF  MATERIALS  NOT  BROUGHT  FROM  HOME 

Grades  i  and  2 

Colored  crayons  (10  cents  a  package) $1.00 

Paint  and  stain 50 

Kindergarten  weaving  paper 20 

Macrame  cord .10 

Sachet  powder .25 

Calendars  .  10 


140  DOMESTIC  ART 

Cardboard  calendars 05 

Ribbon 10 

Tissue-paper — green .02 

Paper  for  tree  chains 05 


Total        $2.37 

Per  child 23$ 

Grades  3  and  4 

Colored  crayons $1.00 

Raffia 20 

Cord .20 

Calendars          .10 

Tissue  paper 05 

Valentine  paper 10 

Cardboard  for  calendars          05 

Ribbon  for  calendars .10 

Total $1.80 

Per  child 18 

NOTE. — The  above  plan  of  student's  work  illustrates  what  can  be  ac- 
complished with  little  money. 


THE  FACTORS   INVOLVED  141 

OUTLINE  II 

STUDENT  PLAN 

New  York  City  Free  Private  Grade  School. — General  course 
parallel  to  public  grade  school. 

Locality. — Poor  neighborhood — most  of  the  children  go  to 
work  at  the  end  of  the  elementary  school. 

General  A  im. — To  connect  with  the  home  and  neighborhood 
to  raise  the  standard  of  living. 

SOME  IDEAS  WHICH  CONTROL  THE  COURSE  OF  STUDY 
Grade  I  (fifty  minutes  per  week) 

(1)  Some  underlying  ideas. — Home   life   and   surrounding 
occupations. 

Fall. — Farm  life.  Sand-table  work.  Houses,  barns,  sheds, 
fences,  wagons,  farm-animals.  Materials  of  many  kinds 
used. 

Farm  life.  A  link  extending  to  grocery,  bakery,  dairy,  meat- 
market. 

Winter. — Study  of  a  typical  home  of  the  neighborhood 
(apartment).  Drawing,  block-building,  furnishing  a  play- 
house, activities  of  the  home,  dusting,  cleaning,  care  of  cloth- 
ing. Care  of  play-house  and  some  care  of  schoolroom  fur- 
nishings. 

(2)  Clothing  and  shelter. — In  relation  to  activities  of  home. 
Emphasize  care  of  clothing;    materials  of  which  clothing  is 
made:    cotton,  silk,  flax,  wool.     Where  comes  from  (very  ele- 
mentary discussion  of  relation  between  plant  or  animal  and 
finished  product). 


142  DOMESTIC  ART 

(3)  Some  underlying  ideas  in  carrying  out  following  things 
to  be  made. — Crude  results  are  expected.  The  aim-is  to  make 
the  child  as  creative'  as  possible  through  use  of  principles 
taught. 

(a)  Paint  cloths — basting. 

(b)  Canvas  work — blanket  and  running  stitch,  napkin  ring, 
etc. 

(c)  Cord  work. 

(d)  Making  of  simple  articles  for  play-houses — bedding,  cur- 
tains, table  covers,  etc. 

(e)  Farm  life: 

(1)  Basket. 

(2)  Meal  bag. 

Grade  II  (JJfty  minutes  per  week) 

(1)  Some  underlying  ideas. — Home   life   and   surrounding 
occupations.     Comparison  with  lives  of  primitive  people. 

Fall. — Farm  life  as  related  to  our  fall  activities  in  the  home. 
Farm  visited,  fruit  gathered  and  preserved  for  winter.  Fall 
housekeeping  problems. 

Winter. — In  place  of  a  play-house,  a  "real"  room  (rest- 
room  or  living-room,  third  floor)  to  be  partially  furnished  and 
cared  for. 

Esquimau  children's  activities,  those  of  early  man  and 
American  Indian,  compared  with  our  lives. 

(2)  Clothing  and  shelter. — Comparison  of  clothing  of  primi- 
tive and  modern  people;    of  what  made;    how;    tools  used; 
names  of  materials — bark  cloth  shown;   practice  in  elemen- 
tary spinning  and  weaving.     Care  of  clothing  at  home.     Prac- 
tical work  in  simple  household  decoration. 

(3)  Some  underlying  ideas  in  carrying  out  things  to  be  made. — 
To  make  the  child  creative  through  the  use  of  ideas  and  prin- 
ciples taught. 


THE  FACTORS  INVOLVED          143 

(a)  Paint  cloths — basting. 

(b)  Canvas  needle-book. 

(c)  Pin-cushion. 

(d)  Christmas  stockings. 

(e)  Iron-holder. 
(/)  Bean-bags. 

(g)  Fitting  up  sitting-room  (co-operative  work). 
(h)  Overshoe  bags. 
(i)  Weaving. 

Grade  III  (One  hour  forty  minutes) 

(1)  Some  underlying  ideas. — Study  of  neighborhood  occupa- 
tions.    Comparison  with  some  primitive  people. 

(a)  Farm  life.     More  intensive  study.     Dairy  farm;   truck- 
garden;   cultivation  of  fruits  and  cereals. 

Large  distribution  centres — milk-depots;  beef  storage  house; 
freight  station;  wholesale  vegetable  market. 

(b)  Comparison    of    modern    agricultural     and    pastoral 
methods  with  those  of  Eastern  shepherd  and  Pueblo  Indian. 

(c)  Beginnings  of  local  history. 

(2)  Clothing  and  shelter, — Relation  of  farm  life  to  clothing. 
Comparison  with  that  of  Eastern  shepherd  and  Pueblo  Indian. 
How  and  where  made.     Simple  processes  of  spinning  and  weav- 
ing in  advance  of  the  second  grade.     Use  of  heddle  and  other 
tools  in  evolution  of  these  arts.     Local  history  in  relation  to 
arts  of  spinning  and  weaving  and  production  of  clothing.     Care 
of  clothing. 

(3)  Some  underlying  ideas  in  making  of  following  articles. — 
Relation  of  things  made  to  home  and  school  interests.     Crea- 
tive side  of  child  nature  to  be  developed;   care  in  threading  of 
needles,  position,  thimble,  knotting  thread. 

(a)  Needle-book — canvas. 


144  DOMESTIC  ART 

(b)  Hand  towels — running.     Emphasis  on  threading,  knot- 
ting, holding  needle. 

(c)  Paint  cloths. 

(d)  Pin-cushions — canvas. 

(e)  Shoe  bags. 

(/)  Paper  dolls  dressed. 

(g)  Textile  chart:  (i)  Comparison  of  textiles,  (2)  adapta- 
tion to  use. 

Grade  IV  (One  hour  forty  minutes) 

(1)  Some  underlying  ideas. — More  definite  study  of  New 
York  City  as  a  whole. 

Main  study:  Some  of  the  causes  which  led  to  its  prominence 
and  which  tend  to  maintain  it. 

Some  study  of  various  nationalities  represented  here. 

Some  study  of  the  commodities  sent  from  other  lands. 

Stories  of  sea-faring  people  of  long  ago  (in  connection  with 
navigation).  Norsemen,  Phoenicians. 

New  York  architecture — buildings,  bridges,  streets. 

Stories  of  Greece  and  Rome,  suggested  by  a  simple  study  of 
political  city  organization. 

Housework — cooking,  setting  of  table,  care  of  rooms,  care 
of  clothes.  Basis  is  found  in  trying  to  make  the  child  his 
mother's  " helper." 

(2)  Clothing  and  shelter. — Study  of  Greek  and  Roman  dress. 
Arts  of  spinning  and  weaving  as  done  in  Greece  and  Rome; 
materials  used. 

Commodities  for  clothing  sent  from  other  lands.  Produc- 
tion in  New  York — where — how. 

(3)  Some  underlying  ideas  in  making  following  articles. — To 
inspire  child  to  be  mother's  helper  in  home.     Special  atten- 
tion to  proper  use  of  tools  in  sewing;  correct  method  of 
hemming. 


THE  FACTORS  INVOLVED  145 

(a)  Paint  cloths. 

(6)  Pinball  (2  circles  overhanded;   initials  in  chain  stitch). 

(c)  Hand-towels — hemming. 

(d)  Christmas  gifts,  penwiper. 

(e)  Clothespin  bag. 

(/)  Cover  slips  for  home  work. 

(g)  Cushion  top — design  transferred — painted — couched. 

(h)  Stuffed  animals  for  stitching  stitch. 

Grade  V  (one  hour  a  week) 

(1)  Some  underlying  ideas. — The  dramatic  development  of 
our  country. 

Discovery  and  Exploration. — Present  geographical  knowl- 
edge compared  with  that  of  people  of  the  fifteenth  century. 

India,  and  the  wonderful  stories  told  about  the  East  by 
the  Crusaders. 

Period  of  Colonization.  (Up  to  the  time  of  the  quarrel  with 
England.) 

Typical  colonies  studied.  New  England,  New  Amsterdam, 
Southern  Colony. 

Biography.     Brave  men  who  helped  build  our  country. 

Housework. — Learning  to  be  helpful  at  home,  continued 
from  Grade  IV. 

(2)  Clothing  and  shelter. — How  made — beautiful  fabrics — 
simple  tools.     Columbus  bartered  for  cotton.     Materials  and 
clothing  in  use  in  East.     Herodotus's  description  of  Indian 
cotton.     Early  travellers'  story  of  cotton  as  animal.     Biogra- 
phy:  Eli  Whitney,  Arkwright,  Hargreaves,  Crompton,  etc. 

(3)  Some  underlying  ideas  in  making  following  articles. — Cre- 
ativity on  part  of  child  centring  about  helpfulness  in  home. 
More   careful   work   required — neatness,    accuracy.     Correct 
position  of  body,  tools,  and  work.     Discussion  of  cost  and 


146  DOMESTIC  ART 

kind  of  materials  used.     Economy  in  buying  and  cutting. 
Care  of  materials  and  tools. 

(a)  Duster — cross  stitch. 

(b)  Pinball  (design  in  Kensington  stitch). 

(c)  Christmas  gifts. 

(d)  Laundry  bag  (feather-stitch). 

(e)  Doll  dressing — simple  notion  of  drafting  and  of  gar- 
ments in  use. 

(/)  Furnishings  for  doll's  bed. 

Grade  VI  (one  hour  a  week) 

(1)  Some  underlying  ideas. — The  development  of  the  nation 
to  the  time  of  the  slavery  troubles  and  the  division  of  the 
Union. 

Modern  and  immediate  life  remains  the  key-note  here  as  in 
previous  grades.  The  past  is  drawn  upon  to  illumine  the 
present.  Problems  of  transportation,  industrial  development, 
and  economic  growth  will  be  viewed  from  the  stand-point  of 
the  present. 

Literature  will  deal  largely  with  stories  of  heroism  and 
chivalry.  History  and  literature  will  frequently,  though  not 
always,  supplement  each  other.  The  mythical  element  still 
appeals  to  this  age,  and  the  myths  and  sagas  of  the  Northland, 
the  German  tale,  will  be  treated  as  carefully  as  will  the  purely 
biographical  material.  Lives  of  great  men  studied:  George 
Washington,  Benjamin  Franklin,  Daniel  Boone,  Alexander 
Hamilton,  John  Paul  Jones,  Thomas  Jefferson. 

Housework — Girls. 

Shopwork. — Boys. 

Geography  of  South  America  and  Europe. 

(2)  Clothing  and  shelter. — Districts  located  where  clothing 
materials  are  produced.     Manufacture  of  clothing  in  South 


THE   FACTORS  INVOLVED  147 

America  and  Europe  at  this  period.  Now — where — history  of 
it.  Development  of  spinning  and  weaving.  Economic  rela- 
tion in  United  States  between  production  of  materials  North 
and  South.  Their  transportation,  location  of  mills  and  fac- 
tories. Cotton,  time  of  slavery.  Silk,  wool,  flax. 

(3)  Some  underlying  ideas  in  making  following. — Careful 
work — knowledge  of  home  things — helpfulness  and  use  in 
home,  neatness,  accuracy.  Machine  work  started.  Discus- 
sion of  simple  machinery.  Economic  cutting,  and  buying  of 
materials.  Care  of  tools.  Patterns  made  for  skirt.  Collec- 
tion of  cotton  and  wool  materials  to  be  mounted  in  book  for 
use  in  grade. 

(a)  Cuffs  (cooking  costume). 

(b)  Needle-books. 

(c)  Christmas  gifts. 

(d)  Darning. 

(e)  Ironing-board  cover.     (Machine  work.) 
(/)  Cooking  apron.     (Machine  work.) 

(g)  Skirt.     (Machine  work.) 

Grade  VII  (one  hour  a  week) 

(1)  Some  underlying  ideas. — As  in  Grade  VI.   The  develop- 
ment of  the  nation  is  treated  as  a  retrospect.     The  present 
must  be  illumined.     History  is  continued,  up  to  the  current 
history,  in  the  making. 

Geography  deals  not  so  much  with  familiar  conditions. 
Asiatic  and  African  lives  are  contrasted  with  our  own. 

(2)  Clothing   and    shelter. — Processes  in  manufacture  and 
making    cloth.    .Printing,    dyeing,    bleaching.     Removal    of 
stains  from  clothing — care  of  clothing. 

(3)  Some  underlying  ideas  in  making  following. — Home  life 
and  interests  of  girl  as  centre.     Social  consciousness  to  be 


148  DOMESTIC  ART 

developed  through  making  for  others  besides  those  in  home. 
Economy  in  buying  and  cutting.  Use  of  patterns.  Neat- 
ness, accuracy.  Collection  of  materials,  silk,  and  flax,  for 
mounting  in  book.  Hygiene  of  clothing — dressing  of  a 
baby. 

(a)  Broom  cover. 

(b)  Crocheted  slippers. 

(c)  Jelly  bag. 

(d)  Pot  lifter. 

*(0)  Combing  towel. 
(/)  Baby  wrappers. 
Christmas  gifts  for  those  who  have  time  to  make  them. 

Grade  VIII  (one  hour  a  week) 

(1)  Some  underlying  ideas. — Main  study:   How  other  coun- 
tries influence  our  development. 

Civics  furnish  the  point  of  departure  for  a  study  of  Greece 
and  Rome. 

Social  and  economic  conditions  of  western  Europe  which 
influence  us  most  strongly.  The  development  of  guilds,  trade 
unions. 

(2)  Clothing. — Discussions.     Development    of    factory    life 
and  conditions.     Relation  of  old  guilds  to  industries.     Sweat- 
shop labor,    Consumers'    League    (continuation    of   idea    of 
development  of  social  consciousness  starting  in  yth  grade). 
Economy   through    care   of   clothing   by   repair,    remaking, 
etc. 

(3)  Some  underlying  ideas  in  making  following  articles. — 
Home  life  and  personal  interests  of  girl  considered.     Use  of 
patterns,  care,  and  neatness  in  machine  stitching.     Economy 
in  buying  and  cutting.     Collection  of    samples  of  lace  edges 
and  insertions.     Cutting  lessons  in  paper  (plaid). 


THE  FACTORS  INVOLVED  149 


(a)  Hemstitched  towels  (lettering). 

(b)  Patching  begun. 

(c)  Christmas  gifts. 

(d)  Remainder  of  patching. 

(e)  Drawers  or  petticoat. 
(/)  Shirtwaist. 


150 


DOMESTIC  ART 


o 

> 

E 

2 

^ 

1 

1 

8 

c5 

o 

-G 

8 

1 

73 

-4-J 

^ 

•7-5 

5 

4> 

'o 

>^ 

.2 

•2 

13 

"S 

bO 

§ 

3 

^_> 

S 

*S 

> 

"0 

§ 

0 

ctf 

en 

"o 

*"cj 

£3 

>», 

MH 

bJD 

4) 

«-2 

•J3 

O 

fi 

+J 

•5 

J3 

13 

.8 

1 

H 

"o 

£"* 

J 

Vf3 

1 

§ 

^5 

1 

b 

1 

1 

4> 

J3 

S 

J^ 

cJ 

bb 

.s 

4) 

T3 

2 

1 

H 

1 

o 
^ 
o 

tn 

rt 

G 

^-:    c 

.^H       ^ 

OUTLINE  III 

|1 

H.J 

.gg 

•  the  first  six  grades, 
I.  TEXTILES 

.S 

1 

I 

J?             trt 

s     .22 
£>    *S 

Cj 

sf     <i> 

II 
«  I 

4> 

O 
"S 

IS 

.s 

w 

se  of  napkin  —  care  — 

se  in  home  —  care  —  cl 

If 

^     t 
|l 

•c3.^ 

£ 

be 

o 

I 

«     "5 

4) 

£3 

^_j 

O  en 

» 

*  ^ 

M-^ 

r^       o 

r^H 

c3 

^ 

C/3 

-4-J 

sj         n 

"hi 

•g 

£ 

W3 

-^ 

c3 

& 

<4H 

5 

a,  ^ 

1 

0 

'o 

P 

a 

•3  "1 

llT 

a, 

t 

e 

^       J—  i 

•3 

s 

w 

£ 

S 

OJ     W) 

L.      -G 

|i 

i 

o 

s 

f 

1 

is 

u 

>H        ^j 

1  ^ 

o 

PH 

0 

•S3 

4) 

1   'g 

S3  -d 

7 

•3 

Q 

<5     bb 

I 

4> 

•S     ^ 

S    cC 

'§        ,n 

1 

1 

< 
en 

Y-C 

| 

f 

i  oo 

-^.        C/3 

^ 

I 

H 

8 

H 

•^1 

"2 

1 

.55 

f  ^ 

^       ti 

1 

1 

§ 

Ce! 

1  f 

Q 

H 

"O 

•£  -5 

$    g 

O 

1 

PH 

.        M 

(N 

to 

•s  .s 

»2 

a 

HH      -»^ 

V.*' 

THE  FACTORS  INVOLVED 


o 


•^  a 

§  3 

bX)    | 

|  -3 

1 

£  "8 

0 


bo 


rf 

3   a,  ^ 

* 


sch 


«*  °  * 

CJ  O  O  U  co 


Elem 
for 


-§ 


-g        5      ;§ 

PQ  co  S  S  « 

CO     Q    ~C>     "^"  "^ 


" 


o  T3  a 

s  a  °* 

o    ™     *• 

1|i 
€  *£ 

£  §1 
.2  &  g 

ig 

^    «  ^ 
H  H  fe 


j    3 
•«    o 

10  X! 

Tg 

1-i 

U 
fe  ^ 

15 


bo 


152 


DOMESTIC  ART 


O 

"o3 

£ 

g 

CO 

03 

"o 

_; 

1 

<G 

a 

rt 

2 

T3 

o 

o 

^o 

H       . 

1 

CO 

,-d 
Jo 
T3 

"o 

2 

^ 

f 

!S 

•c 

6 

^C 

*0 

'E, 

1 

OH 

1 

0 

-4-» 

CJ 

1 

f 

^ 

CO 

O-, 

«* 

e  activities,  but  in  advance  of  the 
room  to  be  furnished  and  cared  for. 

THOUGHT  CONTENT 

be 

.2 

o 
0 

CO 

1 

a, 
8 

•f 
"S 

<D 

.2 
IS 
o 

U 

bb 

n  between  knitted  materials  and  w 

i 

s 

a 

rt 
>> 

| 

'o 
d 

:l 

0 

<-i-i 

0 

d 

o 

If 

1  2 

a  § 
Us- 

11 

C3  -rt    "® 

"3   2  *o 
.S    °  ^ 

j-t 

~T 

CU 

0 

1  1 

bb 

'S 

_T 

! 

o 

2 

1 

n 

i 

^ 

3 

CO 

:S 

13 

o 

_0 

CO 

home  —  materials  in  use  discussed 

g  —  by  weaving.  Names  of  essenti; 

11 

,|_>       CO 

!l 

i 

OH 

'3 

5 

1 

Discussi 

OH     ^0     43 

co     o     bJO 
^|   | 

<  H 

«  ^ 

QJ       ^J 

U  S 

.2 

2n 

03 

u 

p3 

0 

2  8 

"       M 

h   * 

eg 

a 

Oj 

u 

.B 

oj 

rt     £-< 

On'S 

-j     c3 

O     3 

*-*    ±i 
bJO  'S 

H           C^ 

"§)   -^ 

£» 

1/T 

CO 

^ 

bb 

°| 

Q 

0 

i 

0 

i 

1.  - 

5 

o 

M 

CO 

co    O 

• 

co 

^ 

Jc3 

"^ 

^-^ 

.2 

%»—  '    O 

4-1 

CO 

<^J 

T3 

w 

w 

|? 

2 

<xo  "9 

Tj 

2 

3 

^     0 

tn 
en 

W 

•^ 

£ 

*P    ^ 

-g 

.£3 

1    ^ 

8 

O 

CO    j| 

2 

jn 

u 

I 

^••4 

2*       ^ 

§  -o 

g 

^^ 

O   g 

• 

^M^ 

HH    ""M* 

«N 

fO 

rf 

O   1 

THE   FACTORS   INVOLVED 


"ij 
J2 

cJ 

1 

<u 

_G 

.s 

rt 

§ 

le  decoration. 

| 
ex 

0 

"o 

-i  rt  "o 
^  S°  § 

bC  '>,  'S 

G  rt  en 

|  ~  | 

r£j 

c^ 

,*"*! 

r  o 

o 

a. 

^  O  O 

n4 

1 

CJ 

'B, 

T3 

C- 
to 

'% 

•c 

•»  IS 

erhanding,  j 

rt 

'o 

X 

'3 

bC 

'bb 

d 

rt 

rt 

<u 
T3 

0 

CJ 

rt 

rt 
O 

1 
1 

a  3  ^ 
1  *  >, 

1^1 

g^-a  c« 

.g  §  | 

> 
o 

C/3 

p" 

d 
^ 

g 

rt 

a 

•5  .to  .S 

be 

G 

M 

"S 

C/3 

1 

0 

43 

•sS| 

"  r~* 

VH 

^ 

2 

^c 

(•1 

5 

i 

'o 

i>^ 

cn 

"a 

0) 

•5 

cu  <U 

^3  bb  •£ 
^  c 

Stitches:  lasting, 

Hygienic  furnishi 

be 

'cj 
rt 

U 

d 

bO 

'8 

p 

(Very  elementar 

OJ 

0 

3 
1 

O 
bJO 

rt 
§ 

Discussion  of  car 

Comparison  mac 

C/3  J3  Q 

cn  0  ^ 
<U  TJ  rn 

1-^-s 

<u  g  rt 

cx  rt  -g 

^  >H  2 

.£H  CU  O 
•jj  +1  <£ 

materials. 

s. 

0 

6 

u 

bb 

IS 

•/: 

| 

« 

tn 

O 

Q 

J—j 

d 

o 

CJ 

CL> 

O 

CJ 

:over. 

cover 

10 

p 

V 

'I 
U 

£ 

1 

a 

1 

1 

H 

rt 

154 


DOMESTIC  ART 


3 

tn 

T3 

JQ 

d 

-^   2^ 

13 

M 

c3 

*-H!    ^ 

T* 

c3 

"C 

o3 

w   -*-^ 

t--*^ 

4> 

^r*t 

O      CJ 

? 

MH 

O 

C 
g 

f 
1 

-4-> 

c3 

s 

u 
tf 

1 

jjl 

c2   «* 

«  s 

:3 

'-3 

a  "S 

tn 

0 

% 

s  > 

6 

bB 

«^_   § 

en 

.2n 

1 

CONTENT 

rials  used  f 

be 

s  ^ 
^  .s 

^-g     s 

-*->              CJ 
•12            cj 
en            >-i 

"en 

c3 

X2 

to   .S 

*>     be 

Qn'C 
1       ° 

«*H 

fl\ 

.        ^ 

^  t       (-H                      J"T^ 

C/3 

t  ^ 

O 
£} 

a 

e« 

§ 

CJ      ^              CJ 

M 

°  d3 

.2 

^.        c3 

5     ^ 

i    P* 

THOUG 

1 

bC    C! 

•S-8 

en    ^ 
n    "oli 

II  II 

'o 

i 

1H 

1  e 

»S5 

"^ 

1           O      «+H         CJ 

0> 

CJ       ^ 

O         w 

•S 

c/T     »> 

J_    cn     ®     .  ^ 

^ 

ri 

•<t      ci 

1 

CJ      ^P       * 

ri     *"J       Kp     Kjn 

O     T^ 

.2 

en 

cu    -S     cu 

•g    -_j-j     CJ     C 

.2 

Cj 

55           C3 
•^            OH 

1 

^  !  ^j 

5  S  J  ^. 

'i 

.If      ^ 

£          g 

3 

W3    ..    '^ 

^       f"13 

2 

§  -c  "S 

K^,                O 

t5 

^     cu     S 

O       r^          JH       ^Q 

^o 

O     cu     ^ 

S       •? 

^         O 

8 

cj 

e-s! 

3    ,-g     cj 

Bits 

c3     (Sc3 

2 

o3 
O 

gl-3 

^       o 

'If 

•  • 

bo 

•8 

W 

Th 
w 

1 

E*"»  • 

o4 

<•£> 

H 

f  1 

£ 
p 
< 

| 

0 

1 

1 

CJ 

'.    -C 
«o     cj 
?3     en 

"^     CJ 

w 

^ 

t^o         S3 

s 

M 

§ 

bO 

rt 
CJ       .. 

1 

"3    '^ 

w 

i 

1         1 

bJO 

•S 

1  1 

O 

§    cu 

a 

^  ^^ 

PQ 

$ 

^  ° 

o  a 

•    t«  "^ 

"«* 

'co 

^   "VO 

V^X     "Sfc-X 

"^  \B 

o 

HH       p*     ^^-^ 

^^-^ 

>s—^' 

V*—X     ^ 

-c 

rC 

£ 

THE  FACTORS  INVOLVED          155 


ring  processes  of 
iaptation  to  use. 

3 

.f 

3 
1 

.*.< 

O               d 

*s  1  «§ 

«                   Tl 

8«1 

ail 

f 
1 

w 

3 

a     s 

3       | 

o     rt 

d 

£ 

a    .13 

^^ 

tr 

»rt            cj 

f  materials  and  pictures  sh< 
of  woollen  materials  and 

nning  to  use  of  wheels  —  sp 

•  individual  experience  in 

$ 

>> 

T3 
O 

•g 

T3 

d 

c3 

CTj 

f 

(U 

1 

X 
5 
fl 

0 
fc£ 

c 

"S 

d 

'& 
'o 

ry  elementary)  with  modei 
)f  pictures  and,  if  possible 
red  and  spun  by  individu 
>r  teacher's  desk. 

«4H 

0 

1 

g 

J.\ 

8 
1 

c3 
bJO 

.s 

> 

rt 
^ 

1 

rt 

-£) 

cJ 
^ 

1 

oT 

"B 
1 

O)             c^ 
^           ^ 

%     .s 

<U              ^ 
^           T3 

-2        o 

d         ^ 
.2        U 

tj      rj      S 

03    o  ."2 

.a  °  -5 

«  i  -§ 

1 

IS 

^0 

'u 

£ 
ji 

^0 

relationship  with  stripe. 

(b)  Mounting  o 
manufacture 

Evolution  of  spi 

children  after 

"o 

^ 

f 

1 

tj 

fcC 

cu 
> 

<J-H 

0 

s 

u> 

Demonstration 

Connection  (vei 
ning  by  use  ( 
Material  prepai 
to  be  made  fc 

c3 

1 

M—  l 

0 
en 

M 

PH 

Names  of  parts, 

i-S  1 

o  _£  -d 
•^  "§    d 
3  «   ° 
bo  d  dn 

T3 

S 

§ 

"3 
^ 

Design  —  space 

• 

o 

-i 

2 

d 

eb 

2 

c5 

'K 

S 

s 

w 

S"1 

<-j 

| 

^  ^ 

t-l 

^  *f 

'g 

b  *s 

.s 

C/3        p 

fj 

^   ^-k 

^j 

bO 

oJ 

*T3 

^,--1 

0     c« 

a 

"^ 

8 

. 

J3     oi 

" 

'o 

i£x  bB 

^ 

0     o 

<U 

. 

en 

8     & 

"o 

1 

1 

feo'On 

'"§  6 

1 

PL< 

P 

spinning 

I 
.= 

bO 
.S 

c 

S 

11 

^    CO 

| 

•g 

!J 

cSl 

X-N       <U 

:S  3 

i 

B£ 

1° 

.2 

2 

HH 

1 

cs    d 

'•§ 

156 


DOMESTIC  ART 


J2 

bO     •            w     bO 

CJ     g          jzj     £ 

I 

1 

^3     A                           c/3 

bo 

c 
•43 

1 

J2                T-5                  O     M-, 

^  ^  g           ° 

J 

^ 

. 

rt 

S       On  J                 ^0 

p 

>       W       ^              2       % 

c3 

pations.  Origin  and  distribution  of 

THOUGHT  CONTENT 

i!i*f* 

, 

.-J3     Qu    tn    '^     J3    'tn            ^ 

«  S   ^  ^  8  S        S 
^  8  5  -5  u  ^ 

T3*           ^   .13     en   ^H     bb  'S 

l^^i  =  || 

*  *S  ja   S  ^  'S  .S  ^ 

-*—  »      >—  '      O      £        ^      <-"" 

ej  .^  «pi   o   c       -°   as 
8  .9   ^  "g   a2^^ 

I  i  -s  1  1  -  s  ^  1 

•"     c3     cj'i3-i-'^-<     bDu 

i^'P  H 

C 

o 

I 

1 

•8 

g 

care  in  technique.  Hemming  stitch 
;  on  of  tapes. 

desks  —  neatness. 

a 

CJ 

1  s  -s  -s  e  g  ^  ^ 

'55 

OJJ 

%  .S 

MH 

CJ 

O     "*> 
8     § 

MH    cj              cj     4)     o        •*    O 

1  2*3  S|-S  ^o, 

CJ  £              S              fc> 

CJ 

.a 

Q 

1  1 

O 

u 

•S   42 

I* 

.f  s 

^ 

a    >^ 

H 

i 

•8  3 

(_> 

W 

. 

^ 

t"§ 

§ 

¥ 

i 

PH 

o 

*° 

I*^, 

P 

•^  • 

""s 

£ 

(y 

s 

2    J3 

§ 

v; 

r4     ^ 

^"^  "o 

> 

1  2 

en 

W 
tc 

.g^ 

.g3 

8 

il 

ROCES 

IS 

3 

o 

Q 

C^       2* 

PH 

•        M 

i—  J 

•^ 

.S 

•-1    o 

V--' 

THE  FACTORS   INVOLVED 


•a 

o 

1 

3 

s" 

1 

o 

O, 

"cj 

"d" 

CJ 

2^ 

jG 
-*-j 

.a 

b 

U5 

a! 

1 

en 
fl 

cj 
l_i 

*O 

in 
T3 

-a 

0    ' 

1  -If 

!_i 

£ 

5J 
O 

1 

T3 

_g 

'S 

en 

3 

"o     $3 
cj 

£)     C! 

<r3 

cj 

8 

c 

in  relation  t 

J^ 

cfl 
O 

§ 

O 

nd 

cj 
^ 

)ortation.  ] 

on  cardboa 

3n  material 

DH 
M-H 

1 

a 

cu 

, 

•JT 

0 

in 

bC 

•j-j 

O 

^  a 

0 

.s 

.^' 

C/3 

1 

g 

*4J 

0 

CJ 

OT 

"8  1 

T3 
£ 
cd 

bB 

(—  1 

£ 

ri 

jr 

j_< 

.1 

1  * 

c/5 
•/. 

•§  i 

•c  2 
9  3 

T3 

1 

*O 

3 

>-4       *^^ 

0 

^ 

CJ 

C 

^ 

^ 

F  manufactu 
,  stitching  si 

_CJ 

"on 

MH 

I 

.a 

a 

0 

u. 
03 

<U 

-^ 

£ 

g  ^ 

fl  ^ 

^1 

ll 

]bp 
0 

_0 

ost  common, 

n  manufact 

"o 

'On 

w,  a 

*"O     c3 

d 
Ic 

CJ 

'¥ 

|H 

ri 

ecorati 

en 

J 

^   *55 

8  P 

M-H 

0 
T3 

a 

^rt 
'C 

o 

mount 

4—  » 

in 

£ 

U 

n 

^ 

00 

H 

^ 

*o 

0 

ij 

CU 

0 

IH 

CJ 

•w 

3 

_* 

CJ 

xA    ° 

_  c-j 

rj 

. 

tn     <u 

CJ 

2 

q* 

^    A 

rt 

'a 

| 

o    ' 

-^  -3 

0 

a 

§ 

^ 

10  g 

'•Z3 

M—  I 

Cu 

^ 

v_x     C3 

2 

c 

*—  > 

UO       d 

cu 

IS 

4! 

cd     "^ 

Qu 

en 

^ 

r-^ 

.          O 

cu 

£ 

H 

u  6 

fa 

in 
in 
cu 

^^ 

^^^ 

X—  N     X—  x 

^    0 

d 

n 

s!3 

-^ 

^   vS 

ji  g 

I—I           i—  ' 

r-1 

jj 

158 


DOMESTIC  ART 


a 

! 


<§   •! 


JS-a 


S"» 

•§     w 

1     ^ 
Co  CJ 


1 


r 

CU         o 

-0         §  - 

8 


at 


CO 


THE  FACTORS   INVOLVED 


159 


13 

bO 

JB 

'o 
o 

to 

.s 

'n 

cu 
4=1 
+J 
rt 
W) 

t/T 

-a 
s 
rt 

inding  of  the  essential  processes  of  gar- 
and  modern  conditions  of  manufac- 

a  workrooms  and  factories. 

g 

8 

en 
"fl 

2 

IS 

CJ 

t-t 

1 

)•*     C 

•  F—  < 

"5b 

en 

bb 

en     O 

bJO 

5 

.s 

11 

43 

§ 

o 

Cfl 

<s 
i 

*    V 
S     S 

2     ? 

1 
•s 

1 

£ 

S 

.£    "S 

<D 

cJ 
u 

"ctf 

*bb   ^ 

1^ 

"S 

2 

OH 

o    ^ 

-t-> 

o 

H 

H 

10 

hi 

9 

£ 

S  ^ 

2 

'S 

"S 

(-t 
O 

§^ 

8 

ii 

rousers 

+j 

rt 
O 

JU 
O 

"=0 
~ 

v   ^ 

pq  S 

H 

U 

Ot 

O 

bO 

U 

1 

^ 

J    ' 

~~ 

0 

o 

C«) 

i 

t^ 

>_ 
TD 

•g 

'fi 

X 

• 

(U 

ci 

X. 

,—  t 

*—* 
r-  5 

t/j 

5 

1 

«o      ^ 

0 

^CJ 

0 

u 

1 

x^—v 

X*^s.     *"i^           ^ 

ii 

rt 

Q_ 

•2 

I-H 
1—  H 

M 

^^ 

^  3  p 

PH 

Q 

C/3 

;§ 

O 

p 

T3 

^  2 

o  c 

^  "rt 

.1  T3 


's   -S 

Q         03 

6   >r§ 
s 


1 


1 


O 


I    w 
w 

w 


OQ 


.s 


.       C3     J2 


$3    ^ 

§  8 

i-l  H 


1 60 


DOMESTIC  ART 


1 

, 

• 

% 

^ 

T3 

I 

**l 

CU 

J-- 

"en 

d 

§ 

c3 

1 

3 

43 

cn 

d    c° 

-f^ 

'. 

^ 

^ 

.sp*a 

^2 

J 

5JO 

d 

d 

cu    .S 

u 

4G 

cu 

CU 

Q    DH 

l+H 

Q 

d 

•4—  * 

1     en 

CD 

bb  1 

-> 

QJ 

5 

-1 

"rt 

PH 

o 

.    d 

-d 

bO 

C 

2 

•"S       -4->      i—  H1        '                                                          d        -H; 

.S-3 

"o 

Z 

15 
u 

CONTENT 

ij    c 

'•S  » 

|j 

5  S 

rl 

3      <-! 

ft 

"^ 

1 

°cd     >-" 
°                           1-g 
§                            °     § 

•f 

1  I 

1 

I  » 

IH 

8 

d 

CT5 

'ft 

'c 

en 
CU 

en 

n 

individual 

THOUGHT  i 

pportunity  for  further  prac 
alks  on  manufacture  of  clot 
s  economic  bearing  on  life  ii 

ft 

(H 

c 

1 

en 

-o 

d 

2 

en 

^ 

3 

3 

are  of  clothing.  Economy  i 

emonstration  for  two  hour 

a 

^ 

1 
S 

T3 

rt 

| 

cT 
en 

•g 

| 

0 

•5 

a 

1 

I,  2 
"S  J 

cu     ^ 

0  S 
a  '-3 

o   •§ 

ft 

.1  1 

T3 
pj 

>^H 

d 
cu 

"c£ 

0 
bb  -^ 

.s  ^ 

11 

^     0 

o  give  understanding  of  proc 

Counting  on  cardboards  by 

0  H  fi  3 

U 

P 

^  H 

H 

H 

2 

^        I 

bb 

<^ 

J-i       ^ 

^d 

in 

^* 

^j       J—  * 

*^ 

H 

0 

od 

c^ 

U 

flj 

CU 

H 
i—  » 

"•—  ' 

1  .S 

_ 

0 

•rt 

vT    ^ 

xtnv 

'"d 

C5 

P^ 

§ 

'  ^) 

"*~*        Cj 

^3 

0 

f*H 

rt 

r< 

Q 

en 
T3 

O 

d 

S  ^ 

4§ 

a 

> 

'^ 

a 

Q 

bO 

d 

r£2 
JO 

^3 
JD 

<« 

*5b 

"? 

*o  £ 

^ 

2 

£H 

m 

& 

*d 

U 

PROCESSES 

)  Petticoat  ( 

c9 

1 
ft 

r2 

o 

bO    w 

d    2    « 

:§  1  o 

0      ^       ^ 

«  M  S) 
^  .^c 

I1 

1 

)  Colonial  k 

6 

)  Excursion 

Modern  spin 
1  Charts. 

1  Weaves  of 

O 

bo 

^d 

'-S 

.s 
£ 

s^ 

co     O    '^ 

—  " 

HH 

M 

<N 

>^^ 

^ 

© 

ft  ? 

THE  FACTORS  INVOLVED 

pC 


161 


OUTLINE 


STUDENT  PLAN 


i 

g 

% 
i 

rt 
&0 

ie 

^r 

1 

1 
a 

1 

OJ 

d 

o 

£ 

.s 

g 

0 

OJ 

~ 

^f 

'5b 

g 

••"" 

JB 

,/: 

1 

^ 

V 

en 

.5P 

£ 

0 

£ 

rt 

A 

_  r^ 

1 

c3 

S1' 

OH 
1 

_CJ 

IS 

^ 

"on 

^ 

£ 

^J 
p 

3 

^z 

"^ 

_c 

tuO 
3 

CJ 

i-i 
'cj 

T 

1 

t: 

? 

.y 

O 

CU 

i^ 

^-P 

12 

•£j 

"03 

IH 

^ 

"0 

a) 

g 

"rf 

1 

! 

a 
,° 

c^ 

1 

0 

TJ 

*o 

ctf 

M—  1 

0 

m 

5 

8 

!s 

•5 

mv 

,_c 

.•§ 

SJ      O 

r^!        ^ 

'5 

1 

T: 

'g 

gl 

b^ 

| 

Tr. 

,° 

oJ 

O  _  g 
««    a! 

1  § 

.    *§ 

1 

1 

•§  2 

1  «r 

•^  -S 

a 

K 

S'.ffl 

C—  )   *  *""' 

r^  t 

c  "^ 

w  ^ 

1    ^ 

0 

'. 

'u  "^ 

1.  1. 

p^    1. 

t? 

"1 

1/3      "^ 

*-<Sk            ^ 

•"^2        ^ 

\f 

O 

.S2  'rt 

ll 

co  C5 

1'f 

^  ft, 

ll 

IS  c 
H-2 

§ 

162 


DOMESTIC  ART 


fl 

.§ 

^ 

H 

•t^ 

5 

O    c/3 

•£M 

«0 

go 
w 

tj 

CJ 

V-. 

£  « 

«3 

t 

^ 

2  P 

H  en 

|S 

b 

0 

< 

.tJ  ^ 

to 

£ 

W 

<£ 

w 

C^ 

0 

o 

H 

VO 

THOUGHT  CONTENT 

Increase  in  ability  to  sew  neatly  and 
make  the  student  more  capable  of 
doing  things  that  she  should  know 
about.  Appreciation  of  work  on 

a  petticoat, 
(a)  Amount. 
(6)  Neatness  and  quality  of  work. 

1  Comparison  with  ready-made  work. 
Calculation  of  material  and  cost. 

Textile  study.  (Cotton.) 
Relation  of  industry  to  U.  S. 
Fibre,  structure  and  properties. 
Knowledge  of  cotton  cloth. 

(i)  Characteristics. 
(2)  Material  suitable  for  underwear. 

(3)  Widths  and  prices. 
Better  judgment  of  cotton  materials. 

Understanding  of  construction  of 

garments. 

bb 

T3 

"o 

TJ 

•§ 

a 

.'§ 

C/2 

*e3  1^ 

d 

c 

"^     g 

S 

'O    § 

& 

g| 

1 

1    S 

-c  £ 

bb 

c 

• 

ollection 

H 

S  g 
8  3 

1 

O     ° 
C3    bo 

IP 

£  S 

E 

U 

£ 

S  ^ 

.g 

tc 
c 

'5 

1 

^    . 

w 

fl      X—  N 

£ 

^    t/5 

W 
i-l 

!S  S 

'£ 

'g    | 

O 

v^  2 

i 

« 

"i  ^ 

s 

11 

g 

f 

<L)     o 

a  B 

1 

S 

°£ 

PH 

Q 

THE   FACTORS   INVOLVED 


16; 


»-l 

1      -I 

1    1 

£       £ 

Physiology. 

Chemistry. 

VO                                                                                                              IO 

1 

1 

c 

§ 

of  underwear. 

^ 

OJ 

ctf          ^-^     O                                *-• 

.2 

*O 

> 

15 
a 

"z 

machini 

lllf  ll.il 

c3 
^y 

'E, 

"o 

f 

!^ 

econom 

en 

g 

*j3 

t  t 

^ 

^     OH  ,__,      O     +-»      £*      C      C-    *3 

>^    ^ 

o 

•c 

to 

£ 

rt 

Embroidery 

|l|   1  |f  fit1 

if 

Hygiene  —  cl 

Neatness  an 

^ 

Si 

11 

rt    <u 

J  c^ 

0)                       I 

I  sis 

S        "  *o  ^3 

patterns 

machine 

ii 

-o  -s 

«l 

:§>§ 

c 
c 

T 
^ 

oj 

hemmed 
flannel. 

i§l 

.s3   '^     cO 
^     ^     C 
U    3     O 

2  £  S 

*j  'O 

c 

ifi    •-•      ID 

1 

1 

1  1  .s3.!1  ^ 

8 

xi   d     . 

be  as  ^ 

111 

o  c 

^    Mt3 

a,.-  «J 
£   tn   aj 

rt 
Jl 

£ 

r3 

bo 

en 

o 

"1 

g      ^    1 

cj  J2   rt  *-• 

Q 

'^ 

s3    £i§ 

s 

w 

c/5 

^ 

PH 

QU 

to 

c 

1 

0 

S 

1 

1 

c/5 

.B- 

C 

§ 

J_ 

.5 

1 

'cfl 

'8^ 

C 

o 

o 

^ 

j-H 

C 

•^-s 

3 

U 

y 

«s 

§D 

JJ   <D 

'3 

bb 
g 

bb 

| 

c 

X 

- 

1 

£ 

11 

C/2  X3 

1 

15 

o 

1 

U 

if 

& 

t2 

p 

164 


DOMESTIC   ART 


w 

\      frf 

w 

w 

a 

H 

H 

0  en 

0   w 

H  W 

°    U 

o    J^ 

£     0? 

c 

it 

••S  J 
£  '-5 

H   cfl 

<L> 

H    c/l 

i-) 

ti            'S 

hj 

-J    .^   73 

W 
« 

<            ffi 

W 

erf 

J3    !2    C 

"^        "^M        t—  I 

o 

} 

H 

H 

rj- 

C/3 

8 

•*i 
.* 

8 

S            ^ 

« 

jj 

O                 T3 

«o 

^ 

VH                          U 

^i 

.         *r^ 

3                        1 

•i 

i  * 

H 

*"^                                                    C^ 

L_ 

H 

W 

o           J2  £ 
.5               !-5 

1 

W 
H 

!  f 

8 

O-   4J                C    '^ 

O     c/2            rt     <j 

0 

o 

E/I     -^ 

THOUGHT 

^CJ    S°        ^ 
Cu,        .S    In  T3    ^ 

rt      -^  S-5  MI 

-    w5  .22    oj    rt    c 

llllll 

jj  S  t3  ^  w  S  "3 

c3     ^    tn    "rt     O"^"1     fl-1     ai 

5^ 
S 

ft 
o 
^ 

THOUGHT 

-a     fc 

«     s 

^     •-'  • 

^   2    ,J    rt  ^7 

.a-o  3  |  -c 

•P  1  S  W  -8  |  S 

c^       <  O       PQ  S  U 

b-H 

sT 

Q  Oh  ^ 

PROCESS 

1   HJ! 

1    1§ 

03   r*-^     t/i    "^ 

Mill 

a  "aS" 

K 

1 

.«? 

3 

PROCESS 

^           § 
1/1          tj_, 

03                    o 

£     bb          0 

bO  C     vo  w       . 

.S  S   c   y   S 

•*  s  S  ^  ^ 

H  Q  fe  U 

c 

x. 

IS 

D 

a 

fc?4 

O 

w 

£ 

W 

3 

o 

5 

0 

^ 

p. 

S    «i 

o   c 

•| 

2  I 

^ 

QJ     ^3 

^3 

PQ  U 

( 

THE   FACTORS   INVOLVED 


Industrial  history. 

O 

| 

<u  bb 

O 

CJ 

•i  % 
1     •§  1 

S  .S 

f  1 

••—  «  cj 

i 

to 

.£ 
IS 

'S 

I  i%* 

*    %%   oo        g 

o^  §^  8     | 
e  -a  'y  '3  £ 

S  £  s  a  ~     s 

s,  material. 

S  8 

pq 
o 

3  .S 

^0 

TJ 
"o 

ppearance. 

a  vocation. 

c 

&cS  °  u  "§       "2 

% 

b 

t3  .g  'g 

c 

C4 

3 

Printing 
materia 

•^.s  «s  ^  o    "S 

S  S  'o  §  3  '     2 
^,2  o^  g     ^ 
PQ  ^  a;      h      U 

Character 

X 

'£ 

I 

>^  S  cu 
H  "o  '^ 

^  W 

Economy 

Neatness 

Repairing 

-3 

i 

2 

-o 

c 

•s 

^ 

o 

1  . 

<u 

T3 
C 

T3 
(U 

1 

bb      |? 

rt 

c 

o 

If 

cj 

J5 

J3  0 

"7, 

bo 

'^       j;J    ^ 

^  -S  J2 

Q    fj-l    HH 

1 

s 

3 

^ 

o^^ 

3    u 
J    > 

3  O 

-1  ^ 

•M  c 

r  s 

01  T3 

.S 

cj 

Q 

| 

ill 

II  a 

166 


DOMESTIC   ART 


0 


8  8 


°-JS 


W 


S      -3 


c 

o 

+•> 

i; 

3 

0 

^ 

15 

1 

1 

3 

c 
.2 

1 

IH 

N 

0 

-/! 

c 

'i 

«g 

.S 

•r 

-3 

c 
£' 

n. 

I 

oj 

3 

be 

.S 

o 

rison 

- 

0     G     g     C 

0  ^    £ 


III 


^   o 


«      0  "o    0 

oo       O  U  U       ^ 


-g        , 

I  =3 


o 


pq  U  H  U 


. 
S     .    cx,  tuo  c    bo 

3  .£  «  g  1  "8 

•5  -  -^  ^  .5  -o 
U       <       H 


s  I  ^     0 

rS     ^     '  S  Q- 

^  'S  1  .  S 


CS 


THE  FACTORS  INVOLVED 


I67 


ai 
^ 

! 

.y         .y 

*0               -^ 

Jrt 

"S           "S 

^ 

is 

S           S 

2 

3 

X               X 

-M  T3 

.^H                                   .-^ 

W 

<  £ 

<        < 

8 

£i  ^  >-i 

0 

8             ^ 

_;                          (~! 

C3 

C                         •                     !_. 

Economy  in  dress. 
Dressmaking  as  a  vocation. 

Economy. 
Originality. 
Resourcefulness. 

Good  taste  in  dress. 
Suitable  materials. 
Costume  design. 
Costume  design  as  a  vocation 
Comparison  with  ready-made 
Study  of  sweat-shop  labor, 
sumers'  League,  etc.,  and  ii 

.2 

to 

U 
U 

in 

-M 

"c 

Relation  of  cost  of  clothes  to  i 
Relation  to  cost  of  living. 
Better  management  of  home 
Relation  to  cost  of  living. 
More  intelligent  home-make: 

!r| 

s   i 

-2  1  -3 

lly  applied. 

^4    O         T3    ^ 

gjl  sf 

*tn  T3    5                rt 
«J    C    6                w 

2  J3                 0  *° 

^      "8 
2 

H  ! 

S  «+i 

51 

C^                       ,—  H           •  >       '"J          t*^ 

P  °      "3 

S  |°-|  '1  -o" 

.y 

Co           (-1    cj  *"O 

Oy  "-^  ^i  ^3    -*-» 
CU.ti     cj     O     tfl 

i 

•1?.!:  S  §  =  § 

r-.       l/l                 —       C/3 

C     O           C     O 
0    «           o    W 

<;  fa  u  u 

£ 

C  fa           U 

U            U 

•3 

_ 

|      ^ 

1 

en 

bo 

bO  c    o 

I'd 

!§ 

•S    S    M 

F^              O 

w 

I  a  g.s 

.2  | 

en                ^ 

'2    £"  bo  rt 

<D  t3 

^                 ^ 

jl^         ^ 

II 

5            o 
U           ffi 

l68  DOMESTIC  ART 

OUTLINE  V 

STUDENT  PLAN 

COURSE  OF  STUDY  FOR  THE  ELEMENTARY  SCHOOLS 
Fifth,  Sixth,  Seventh,  and  Eighth  Grades 

The  city  for  which  this  course  is  planned  is  located  in  the 
western  part  of  the  United  States,  in  a  beautiful  valley,  one 
of  the  most  fertile  and  prosperous  farming  districts  of  the 
State.  The  city  was  first  settled  about  fifty  years  ago,  and 
has  at  present  a  population  of  six  to  seven  thousand  inhabitants. 

It  contains  three  knitting  factories,  several  stores,  and  three 
or  four  respectable  places  of  amusement,  a  public  library, 
several  churches,  etc. 

The  nationalities  represented  are  Scandinavians,  English, 
and  Americans. 

The  largest  percentage  of  the  population  make  their  living 
by  farming,  many  of  them  living  out  on  their  farms  in  the 
summer  and  moving  into  the  city  for  the  winter,  so  as  to  send 
the  children  to  school. 

The  public  schools  have  two  large  central  school  buildings, 
with  eight  smaller  ones  scattered  through  the  city,  some  of 
which  contain  only  two  rooms.  The  number  of  pupils  en- 
rolled is  about  1,496,  with  an  average  number  per  teacher  of  50. 

The  schools  are  very  crowded  and  in  great  need  of  more 
buildings,  which  will  be  put  up  as  soon  as  financial  circum- 
stances will  allow  it. 

A  special  supervisor  for  primary  grades  has  been  provided, 
and  excellent  plans  for  constructive  work,  clay  modelling,  etc., 
have  been  introduced  with  very  good  results. 

Other  manual  training  work  has  not  yet  been  introduced, 
/  owing  to  the  lack  of  funds;  so  this  course  of  study  for  the 


THE  FACTORS  INVOLVED  169 

upper  grades  has  been  planned  with  the  end  in  view  of  making 
as  few  expenses  for  the  school  as  possible,  and  still  giving  the 
girls  a  course  of  study  which  would  be  of  value  to  them. 

The  work  is  to  be  given  by  the  grade  teacher,  under  the 
direction  of  a  domestic-art  supervisor,  and  will  have  to  be 
given  in  the  regular  class-rooms  until  more  buildings  are  put 
up. 

Machine  sewing  has  been  left  out,  partly  on  account  of  the 
expense  involved  in  getting  machines  and  of  finding  room  for 
them,  and  also  because  two-thirds  of  the  girls  will  continue 
one  or  more  years  in  one  or  the  other  of  the  high  schools. 

The  material  is  to  be  purchased  by  the  children;  they  are 
not  poor,  and  the  parents  will  be  perfectly  willing  and  glad  to 
pay  for  it. 

The  aim  of  the  course  is  to  make  the  girls  helpful  at  home 
and  in  society,  independent,  and  appreciative  of  good  work,  as 
well  as  the  many  opportunities  they  have  over  those  of  their 
parents.  In  the  study  of  textiles,  comparisons  may  be  made 
of  the  past  and  present  conditions  in  the  West  with  those  of 
large  manufacturing  centres  in  the  East,  and  reasons  shown 
why  the  woollen  mills  in  the  West  cannot  successfully  compete 
with  those  in  the  East,  and  foreign  lands,  etc. 

Whenever  possible,  the  work  in  domestic  art  is  to  be  cor- 
related with  drawing,  nature  study,  arithmetic,  history,  and 
geography. 

Equipment,  such  as  needles,  thimbles,  scissors,  etc.,  will 
be  provided  by  the  children,  while  illustrative  material  and  a 
few  boxes  for  supplies  and  finished  work  will  be  provided  by 
the  school.  Most  of  the  work  should  be  kept  for  exhibition 
to  be  given  at  the  end  of  the  year,  especially  for  the  first  two 
or  three  years. 

For  between  work  the  children  could  make  a  second  article, 
and  at  the  end  of  the  year  this  could  be  disposed  of  in  some 


170  DOMESTIC   ART 

way,  and  the  money  go  to  an  equipment  fund,  which  should 
be  kept  until  more  buildings  are  put  up,  and  rooms  fitted 
equipped  for  sewing. 

The  schools  are  in  session  thirty-four  weeks  of  the  year. 

Grade  V  (Fifty  Minutes  per  Week) 

Some  Underlying  Ideas. — 

(1)  Home  life  and  surrounding  occupations.     The  sheep  in- 
dustry.    Indians  and  the  early  settlers. 

(2)  Clothing  and  shelter. — Relation  of  farm  life  to  clothing. 
Comparison  of  •early  pioneer  life  with  present  time.     A  study 
of  wool,  cotton,  linen,  silk — making  a  chart. 

(3)  The  underlying  thought  in  making  the  following  articles. 
Care  of  clothing  and  furniture.     Tools.     Also  care  of  what 
belongs  to  others.     School  property. 

HOURS  COST 

8      Work-basket.     (For  tools) $0.05 

3      Canvas    pin-cushion.     (Basting    and    blanket 

stitch) 0.05 

3  Dust-cloth.     (Basting  and  running)     ....  0.03 
8      Book-cover.     (Stencilling    with    outline — over- 
handing)  original  design °-IS 

8      Laundry-bag.     Basting,     hemming,      stitching 

stitch) 0.25 

4  Preparation  of  textile  chart 0.02 


34  $0.55 

For  between  work  initials  may  be  made  on  the  laundry-bag 
in  cross-stitch  or  outline.     Design  made  in  class. 


THE   FACTORS   INVOLVED  171 

Grade  VI  (Fifty  Minutes  per  Week) 

Some  Underlying  Ideas. — 

(1)  Study  of  the  development  of  West.     Problems  in  rela- 
tion to  transportation.     Comparison  of  conditions  in  the  East 
and  West.     Comparison  of  prices  of  material  with  those  in 
early  days  (as  much  as  a  dollar  was  paid  for  a  yard  of  calico). 

(2)  Clothing  and  shelter. — Industrial  resources.     Processes 
of  wool  and  cotton  before  weaving.     The  suitability  of  these 
fibres    to    clothing.     Visits    to    knitting    factories.     Simple 
machinery  discussion. 

(3)  Underlying  thought  in  making  the  following  articles. 
Helpfulness  in   the   home.     Cleanliness,   neatness,   accuracy. 
Correct  position.     Simple  drafting. 

HOURS  COST 

3  Needle-case  canvas.     Blanket  and  cross  stitch     $o .  05 

4  Jelly-bag.     Hemming  and  overhanding.   Tape       o.io 

9  Wash-cloth.     Knitting 0.05 

4  Darning.     Stockinet 

10       Short  kimono.     French  seams.     Facings    .     .       0.35 
4       Dish-towel.     Hemming o.io 

34  $0.65 

Grade  VII  (Fifty  Minutes  per  Week) 

Some  Underlying  Ideas. — 

(1)  The  development  of  the  nation.     Large  industrial  cen- 
tres.    How  other  countries  influenced  our  development. 

(2)  Clothing   and    shelter. — Weaving.     Primitive    methods 
used  by  the  Indians.     Printing,  dyeing.     Study  of  silk  and 
linen.     Properties.     Suitability  of  materials  for  different  uses. 


172  DOMESTIC  ART 

(3)  Underlying  thoughts  in  making  the  following  articles. 
Social  consciousness  through  making  for  others  besides  those 
at  home.  Economy  in  buying  materials.  Cleanliness,  orderly 
housekeeping.  Original  designs  for  weaving  and  table-cover. 
The  artistic  side  of  decoration  emphasized. 

HOURS.  COST. 
7        Cooking    apron.      Gathering,    band,    button- 
holes   $0.25 

10       Rug.     Weaving 0.20 

10       Table-cover.     Applique 0.40 

4       Patching.     Overhand.     Hemmed      

3        Work-bag.     Free  construction o.io 

34  $0.95 

Collection  of  samples  of  materials,  with  price  and  width. 

The  rug  is  to  be  made  in  a  certain  number  of  squares  of  a 
definite  size.  Each  girl  makes  a  design  and  the  best  one  is 
selected.  The  rug  when  finished  is  to  be  disposed  of  and  the 
money  to  be  kept  for  equipment. 

Grade  VIII  (Fifty  Minutes  per  Week) 

Some  Underlying  Ideas. — 

(1)  European  countries  which  influence  our  market.     Com- 
modities for  clothing  sent  from  other  lands. 

(2)  Clothing  and  shelter. — Development  of  factory  life  and 
conditions.     Economy  through  care  of  clothing  by  repair,  re- 
making, removal  of  spots,  etc. 

(3)  Underlying  thoughts  in  making  the  following  articles. 
Home  life  and  personal  interest  of  girl  considered.    Economy  in 
buying  and  cutting.    Home  decoration.     Simple  drafting  for 


THE    FACTORS    INVOLVED  173 

underwaist.  Design  for  embroidery.  Neatness  in  dress. 
Choice  of  color.  Collection  of  samples  of  lace  edges  and 
insertion. 

HOURS.  COST. 

6  Towel — hemstitched $0.20 

10  Underwaist — simple  design  in  eyelet  ....  0.40 

4       Repairing — various  kinds 

4  Napkin o-3° 

10  Cushion-cover 0.50 

34  $i-40 

These  outlines  deal  with  the  domestic-art  work 
as  it  is  related  to  the  present  elementary  school  cur- 
riculum. In  the  near  future  the  writer  believes  it 
will  be  necessary  to  so  readjust  the  studies  of  the 
elementary  and  high  schools  that  there  may  be  a 
better  relationship  and  continuity  of  study  for  those 
who  will  go  on  to  high  school  for  a  short  period 
only  and  a  decided  change  of  course  of  study  for 
the  large  percentage  of  children  who  leave  school 
at  the  end  of  the  sixth  or  eighth  grade.  For  those 
who  must  leave  at  so  young  an  age,  a  course  of 
study  should  be  planned  which  will  consider  the 
needs  of  those  children  who  must  join  the  large 
army  of  wage-earners  at  the  earliest  possible  moment. 
They  must  be  prepared  for  citizenship  and  social 
living.  The  best  which  can  possibly  be  given  them 


174  DOMESTIC   ART 

in  this  short  period  should  be  theirs.  The  most 
important  phases  of  hygiene  and  knowledge  of  the 
laws  governing  health  can  be  given,  they  can  receive 
some  kind  of  training  in  skill  along  some  line  of 
useful  vocation.  In  domestic-art  work  for  girls  this 
would  mean  training  in  the  trades  centring  about  the 
needle,  and  the  spending  of  as  much  time  as  possi- 
ble on  the  art,  music,  English,  and  mathematics 
which  bear  a  relationship  to  the  special  line  .of 
interest.  Women  of  originality  of  thought  and  pur- 
pose who  have  studied  the  field  of  industry  open  to 
young  wage-earners,  as  well  as  the  field  of  general 
education,  should  be  chosen  to  plan  and  conduct 
this  work.  It  will  be  largely  experimental  for  a  while, 
but  must  be  so  conducted  until  the  results  have 
been  studied.  The  work  undertaken  in  Boston  at 
the  North  Bennett  Street  Industrial  School  is  of  this 
experimental  nature  and  the  results  are  being  watched 
with  much  interest.  Opportunity  is  there  given  in 
the  seventh  and  eighth  grades  for  intensive  industrial 
work  during  half  of  each  day.  Outline  IV  is  sug- 
gestive of  possibilities  if  the  reconstruction  of  the 
curriculum  of  the  first  six  grades  gives  opportunity 
for  vocational  work  to  follow  in  the  seventh,  eighth, 
and  ninth  grades. 


PART  III 

THE  RELATION   OF  DOMESTIC  ART  TO 
SECONDARY  EDUCATION 


CHAPTER  X 

CAN  DOMESTIC  ART  CONTRIBUTE  TO  THE  GEN- 
ERAL AIMS  OF  SECONDARY  EDUCATION? 

BEFORE  it  is  possible  to  decide  whether  domestic 
art  can  contribute  to  secondary  education,  one  must 
have  an  understanding  of  the  general  meaning  and 
aims  of  secondary  school  work.  As  the  term  is  gener- 
ally accepted  it  means  the  four  years  course  of  train- 
ing which  connects  the  elementary  school  with  higher 
schools.  This  may  be  in  secondary  schools  of  vari- 
ous types  both  public  and  private.  In  the  broader 
sense,  secondary  education  may  mean  all  kinds  of 
courses  of  one,  two,  three,  or  more  years,  which 
follow  the  work  of  the  elementary  school,  evening 
or  day  continuation  classes  in  public  schools  or  asso- 
ciations which  contribute  to  the  advance  of  one's 
education  beyond  the  accomplishments  of  the  eighth 

175 


176  DOMESTIC  ART 

grade.  This  work  may  be  literary,  scientific,  or 
artistic,  and  of  a  practical  or  technical  character. 

"The  education  demanded  by  a  democratic  society 
is,  therefore,  an  education  that  prepares  an  indi- 
vidual to  overcome  the  inevitable  diffi- 

General  aim 

of  secondary  culties  that  stand  in  the  way  of  his  mate- 
education. 

rial  and  spiritual  advancement."   While 

this  defines  education  generally,  it  seems  also  to  be 
particularly  apt  in  application  to  this  field  of  work, 
for  it  is  during  this  period  of  education  that  youth 
is  so  often  brought  face  to  face  with  the  difficulties 
of  life,  especially  in  relation  to  livelihood.  Mr. 
Hanus  has  outlined  the  general  aims  of  secondary 
education  very  fully.  Life  in  order  to  be  worth  while 
must  show  growth  and  an  ever-increasing  usefulness 
in  the  world,  so  that  the  secondary  education  of  to- 
day must  be  a  preparation  for  life  which  is  to  be  one 
of  helpfulness  and  service,  both  to  the  individual  and 
to  society. 

As  the  life  interests  of  individuals  are  so  various, 
secondary  education  should  offer  pos- 

Pupils  to  be 

"  led  to  the       sibilities  of  choice  so  that  during  that 

discovery  of 

dominant          period  the  pupil  may  discover  the  path 

of  life  which  his  interests  direct  him  to 

follow.    This  thought  of  discovery  of  life  purpose, 


GENERAL  AIMS  OF  SECONDARY  EDUCATION      177 

which  should  be  the  key  one,  makes  the  planning  of 
work  very  difficult.  This  interest  may  lead  the  pupil 
to  self-support  or  to  a  life  of  study  or  invention  which 
may  count  for  service  to  himself  and  others.  Sec- 
ondary education  should  so  stimulate  the  pupil  that 
he  will  realize  his  duty  and  responsibility  toward 
society  at  large,  and  see  that  ultimately  he  must  figure 
in  the  making  of  the  laws  of  his  country  and  in  the 
fulfilment  of  duties  of  public  trust  in  all  fields  of 
work.  Early  encouragement  to  take  part  in  the  social 
work  of  the  community  may  be  a  guide  to  leadership 
and  an  incentive  to  intelligent  and  helpful  participa- 
tion later  in  life. 

The  above  definition  of  education  calls  attention 
to  the  spiritual  advancement  of  the  individual. 
Secondary  school  work  should  introduce  the  indi- 
vidual to  an  appreciation  of  the  beauties  of  the 
"  refined  pleasures  of  life,"  those  things  in  art,  letters, 
science,  and  religion  which  contribute  to  higher  and 
more  spiritual  living.  Education  which  omits  this 
entirely  deprives  the  individual  of  those  inner  re- 
sources which  count  for  so  much  when  the  practical 
issues  of  life  sometimes  do  not  bear  fruit.  They  are 
the  inward  life  and  strength  which  often  impel  the 
individual  to  greater  things.  Secondary  work  should 


178  DOMESTIC  ART 

so  interest  the  pupil  in  this  field  of  thought  that  he 
will  continue  to  be  interested  and  to  develop  along 
these  lines  as  he  proceeds  in  life. 

Secondary  education  should  not  neglect  the  phys- 
ical advancement.  Opportunity  should  be  given 
physical  the  pupil  for  physical  development  and 

advancement       ...  ir.ii  •        i>e 

of  great  intimate  study  of  the  laws  governing  life 


importance.          an(j    ^    ^^        Thj&    know}edge    is    the 

most  vital  and  important  if  the  individual  is  to  ac- 
complish anything  in  the  world.  This  period  of  ado- 
lescence adds  another  difficulty  which  must  be  consid- 
ered by  those  planning  the  secondary  school  courses. 

These  aims  which  contribute  to  the  development 
of  the  individual  count  also  for  the  development  of, 
society  and  for  the  betterment  of  living.  The  func- 
tion of  secondary  education  has  been  given  as  "the 
most  widely  available  organized  force  for  elevating, 
refining,  and  unifying  a  democratic  society." 

All  phases  of  work  of  secondary  nature  should 
contribute  to  these  general  aims.  If  these  aims  are 
analyzed  more  specifically,  they  are 

(1)  Those  which  relate  the  individual  to  society 
and  help  him  to  take  his  place  among  his  fellows. 

(2)  Those  which  give  him  the  broader  view  of 
life,  of  its  accumulation  of  culture,  or  aesthetics. 


GENERAL  AIMS  OF  SECONDARY  EDUCATION      179 

(3)  Those  which  are  practical  and  enable  him  to 
select  a  vocation  which  will  be  his  life  interest  or 
means  of  livelihood. 

In  considering  the  field  of  domestic 

Domestic  art 

in  relation  to     art  in  relation  to  these  aims,  it  is  possi- 
ble to  find  many  lines  of  thought  which 
will  contribute  to  their  accomplishment. 

A  knowledge  of  domestic-art  work  will  enable  any 
woman  to  be  a  better  consumer,  producer,  and  home- 
maker  in  any  community.  It  will  enable  her  to  buy 
economically  and  wisely,  to  select  with  wisdom  and 
good  taste  the  best  and  most  appropriate  clothing 
and  furnishings  for  her  home,  to  manage  it  sys- 
tematically for  the  good  of  all  its  members,  and  to 
enter  into  the  problems  of  social  life  intelligently. 
Can  all  this  be  accomplished  by  means  of  domestic- 
art  work  in  secondary  education?  There  are  many 
possibilities.  The  teacher's  example  will  be  one  of 
the  most  dominant  factors.  Her  interest  in  life,  in 
society  will  be  an  impelling  force.  Talks  and  sug- 
gestions in  relation  to  woman's  work,  wages,  sweat- 
shop labor  bargains,  Consumers'  League,  open  th'e 
mind  of  the  awakening  girlish  consciousness  to  a  new 
field  of  thought.  Woman's  relations  to  the  better- 
ment of  conditions  of  the  working-woman,  of  better 


180  DOMESTIC  ART 

laws,  of  economic  relations,  suggest  to  her  fields 
of  work  for  the  future.     The  teacher's  direct  inter- 
est in  and  support  of  these  in  her  own 

Domestic  art 

in  relation  to     town  are  factors  which  count  for  influ- 

social  life. 

encmg  the  girl  to  participate  in  such 
life-work.  Talks  from  officials  and  others  interested 
in  betterment,  and  in  economic  conditions,  are  an- 
other avenue  of  possible  connection.  Visits  to  insti- 
tutions, factories,  or  shops  are  often  possible  for 
study — the  clothing,  food,  etc.,  of  children  and  adults 
in  institutions,  suggestions  for  betterment — the  pur- 
chasing power  of  a  dollar — the  best  for  the  least 
amount,  all  suggest  ways  of  arousing  interest  which 
may  later  lead  to  an  active  interest  in  the  work  of 
social  welfare.  This  may  be  as  life-work  or  voca- 
tion either  for  a  means  of  livelihood  or  not.  As  a 
means  of  livelihood  the  field  offers  many  opportu- 
nities for  institutional  buyers,  philanthropic  and  wel- 
fare workers  in  school  systems,  charities  and  better- 
ment work  of  the  large  factories  connected  with  the 
textile  industries,  or  in  various  other  fields  of  work. 
Secondary  education  should  in  this  social  connec- 
tion aim  to  give  the  girls  true  knowledge  of  the 
organization  of  the  institutions  and  activities  of  gov- 
ernment. Courses  in  history,  civics,  economics,  and 


GENERAL  AIMS  OF  SECONDARY  EDUCATION      181 

social  studies  all  contribute.  This  is  not  the  function 
of  domestic-art  work,  but  the  teacher  of  this  subject 
can  relate  her  work  intelligently  to  it  and  lend  a 
hearty  co-operation  in  the  general  training  for  goo.d 
citizenship.  y 

Vocational  education  has  been  defined  as  "that 
which  equips  an  individual  for  self-support.     Self- 
support   may   not   necessarily   mean   a 

Domestic  art 

in  relation  to     wage-earning    capacity,    it    might    be 

vocational  aim. 

home-making  or  work  along  the  line  of 
one's  dominant  interest."  Not  all  of  our  girls  are 
privileged  to  proceed  to  college  and  enter  upon 
courses  of  work  which  may  lead  later  to  their  life 
vocations  in  large  fields  of  professional  interest  and 
study.  The  secondary  school  should  provide  some 
means  of  enabling  the  girl  to  find  herself  in  relation 
to  her  life-work  as  a  vocation  along  other  lines  than 
those  of  the  higher  professions.  Courses  in  house- 
hold arts,  commercial  and  other  business  courses, 
are  needed  in  order  that  if  the  girl  have  ability  in  these 
directions,  she  may  discover  it  and  her  relationship 
to  them,  that  she  may  emerge  into  larger  life  and 
under  wise  direction  learn  the  source  of  her  pleasures 
or  the  life-work  in  which  she  will  voluntarily  engage. 
Secondary  education  should  acquaint  the  girl  with 


182  DOMESTIC  ART 

the  importance  of  the  discovery  of  a  vocation  so  that 
she  may  begin  her  .life-work  early.  "The  great 
mass  of  human  happiness  will  always  arise  out  of 
doing  well  the  common  things  of  life,  and  the  happi- 
ness of  the  individual  will  lie  in  that  creative  genius 
which  does  to-day  the  same  thing  it  did  yesterday, 
but  does  it  better." 

Secondary  education  for  girls  must  offer  courses 
which  deal  with  the  common  things  of  life,  as  well 
as  the  literary  and  aesthetic  work.  The  two  should 
go  hand  in  hand  and  one  supplement  the  other. 
Vocations  may  be  the  direct  .outgrowth  of  the  house- 
hold arts  courses  or  may  spring  from  the  so-called 
more  cultural  courses  of  the  school.  The  aim  of 
either  is  for  greater  service  and  efficiency. 

Courses  in  domestic  art  may  lead  directly  into  many 
vocational  fields.  That  of  the  home-maker  is  the 
first  and  foremost  in  our  consideration,  for  it  is  she 
upon  whom  we  depend  for  the  growth  and  develop- 
ment of  the  homes  of  the  future  and  the  rearing  and 
education  of  our  children.  There  can  be  no  greater 
vocation,  and  any  secondary  school  entirely  fails  in 
its  mission  which  neglects  to  give  the  girls  an  oppor- 
tunity for  studying  it.  Courses  in  dressmaking, 
costume  designing,  or  millinery  may  lead  directly  to 


GENERAL  AIMS  OF  SECONDARY  EDUCAT 


life-work  along  these  lines.  The  secondaf^^Mools, 
according  to  their  type,  may  only  introduce  c 
more  intensive  study  in  these  fields  of  work.  These 
intensive  courses  will  prepare  for  direct  application 
in  establishments  of  trade.  They  may  not  give  a 
full  trade  experience,  but  they  do  give  the  girl  a 
foundation  for  later  training  which  will  cause  her  to 
rise  rapidly  as  she  gains  in  experience. 

Courses  in  domestic  art  can  contribute  to  the  so- 
called  general  culture  work  and  thought  of  the 
Dom-e-stic  art  school.  The  modern  idea  of  culture  is 

thelMaUed0  much  broader  than  that  formerly  in  use, 
cultural  studies.  anj  the  new  social  relationships  and 

civilization  call  for  a  change  in  adjustment  of  our 
so-called  cultural  courses.  The  practical  studies  ap- 
peal most  thoroughly  to  many  girls  and  it  may  be 
that  through  these  only  can  the  introduction  be 
given  to  the  more  general  cultural  studies.  For  the 
girls  who  do  not  intend  to  go  to  college,  Latin  and 
Greek  are  a  waste  of  time.  It  is  far  better  for 
these  to  study  the  more  modern  subjects  which  are 
adapted  to  their  needs:  the  history  of  industry  and 
commerce,  politics  and  education,  art  and  phi- 
lanthropy, modern  foreign  languages,  literature  of  the 
mother-tongue,  the  elements  of  commercial  training, 


1 84  DOMESTIC  ART 

fine  arts  and  mechanic  arts,  economics  and  govern- 
ment. This  scope  of  programme  offers  difficulties 
to  those  who  must  prepare  the  course  of  study  for 
the  individual.  General  culture  has  been  defined 
as  "the  capacity  to  understand,  appreciate,  and 
react  on  the  resources  and  problems  of  modern 
civilization."  No  one  individual  can  choose  all  the 
work  offered,  but  should  be  taught  to  think  about  his 
choices  and  do  so  under  guidance.  This  direction  of 
choice  will  depend  largely  upon  the  tact  and  good 
judgment  of  the  teachers.  Secondary  education 
should  be  a  constant  training  in  foresight  and  re- 
sponsibility, these  two  great  giants  which  make  for 
the  formation  of  character  and  good  citizenship. 

Domestic  art  in  this  sense  may  be  cultural  in  many 
ways.  The  various  courses  in  art,  design,  costume 
and  millinery  designing,  all  have  as  their  foundation 
the  general  principles  of  design.  Garment -making, 
trimming,  and  decoration  are  truly  studies  in  line 
and  space,  balance,  rhythm,  and  harmony  of  color. 
A  beautiful  gown  or  hat  is  a  true  study  in  art  and 
requires  artistic  sense  and  feeling  to  produce  it.  The 
study  of  fabrics,  their  manufacture,  composition, 
and  adulteration  opens  up  the  whole  field  of  science. 
The  dyeing,  cleansing,  and  laundering  of  materials 


GENERAL  AIMS  OF  SECONDARY  EDUCATION      185 

offer  a  practical  application  of  chemistry  and  its 
principles.  The  hygiene  of  clothing  relates  directly 
to  the  studies  in  physiology,  and  some  of  the  princi- 
ples of  physics  and  geometry  are  exemplified  in  the 
drafting  of  garments  and  the  use  of  machines. 

History  has  a  decided  connection  with  the  domes- 
tic-art field.  The  history  of  industry  is  most  interest- 
ing and  vital  in  relation  to  the  evolution  of  textile 
manufacture.  The  history  of  rugs,  old  textiles,  and 
costume  are  as  interesting  as  studies  of  ancient  Greek 
or  Roman  life  and  may  be  connected  with  these. 
Economics  and  sociology  bear  directly  on  many 
phases  of  domestic-art  work,  and  commercial  geog- 
raphy makes  the  study  of  fabrics  of  much  more 
value  and  interest  to  the  pupil. 

The  possible  so-called  cultural  relationships  are 
very  many,  but  it  depends  entirely  on  the  skill  and 
tact  of  the  domestic-art  teacher  in  her  co-operation 
with  the  other  instructors  to  make  these  relation- 
ships vital. 

With  these  general  aims  for  secondary  education 
in  mind,  and  the  possible  scope  of  domestic-art 
work  as  it  contributes  to  the  accomplishment  of  these 
aims,  it  is  possible  to  turn  to  the  selection  of  material 
for  various  types  of  secondary  schools,  according  to 
their  needs. 


1 86  DOMESTIC  ART 

REFERENCES  FOR  STUDY 

"A  Modern  School,"  Hanus. 

"  Secondary  Education  in  a  Democratic  Community," 
Hanus.  Vol.  XI  "English  Reports  on  Education." 

"  Report  of  Lake  Placid  Conference  on  Home  Economics," 
1908. 

"The  American  High  School,"  J.  F.  Brown. 


CHAPTER  XI 

THE   SELECTION   AND   PLANNING   OF  WORK 
FOR  THE  SECONDARY  SCHOOLS 

WITH  the  previous  chapter  in  mind,  we  are  ready 
to  turn  to  the  selection  and  planning  of  work  for 
secondary  schools. 

We  are  at  once  confronted  by  the  numerous  factors 
which  must  be  considered  in  the  planning  of  work. 
They  are  somewhat  similar  to  those  affecting  the  ele- 
mentary course  and  yet  more  difficult.  Our  primary 
consideration  is  the  girl — our  girl  with  all  her  aspira- 
tions, hopes,  and  fears.  She  is  very  appealing  at 
this  period,  for  she  is  so  very  human  in  the  develop- 
ing and  unfolding  of  her  nature.  We  are  to  guard 
and  guide  her,  and  to  watch  her  physical  and  psy- 
chological development.  The  teacher  of  domestic 
art  has  an  unusual  opportunity  to  help  and  protect 
in  her  close  association.  She  must  be  guarded 
against  too  great  physical  and  mental  strain  when 

she  is  in  need  of  rest  and  relaxation.     Her  ambitions 

187 


1 88  DOMESTIC   ART 

are  to  be  encouraged,  her  fears  allayed,  her  hopes 
renewed.  The  teacher  should  be  wise  in  her  selec- 
tion of  problems  during  the  early  high  school  years 
and  should  bear  distinctly  in  mind  the  peculiar 
character  of  this  period  of  mental  and  physical  de- 
velopment. The  good  of  the  girl  is  the  ultimate  goal, 
and  without  health  nothing  can  be  accomplished. 

The  social  ideals  and  life  of  the  community  should 

be  kept  in  mind  in  planning  the  work  for  this  course, 

for  after  all  we  are  preparing  the  girl 

Social  life  of 

the  commu-  to  take  her  place  in  the  community  and 
to  promote  its  welfare.  The  needs  of 
the  home,  of  the  school,  and  neighborhood  institu- 
tions should  be  considered.  Problems  may  be  intro- 
duced into  the  course  which  may  be  of  use  and  value 
in  those  institutions  and  develop  an  interest  in  them. 
Any  connection  which  the  domestic-art  teacher  can 
make  to  arouse  the  social  consciousness  of  the  girl 
and  put  her  in  touch  with  useful  life  will  be  of  great 
value  to  her.  This  added  interest  which  is  the  only 
true  interest  certainly  touches  life  and  enables  the 
girl  to  see  her  relationship  to  some  of  its  problems. 
Time  and  locality  enter  as  factors  in  relation  to 
the  planning  of  this  work.  The  local  school  board 
may  be  authorized  to  decide  the  number  of  hours 


WORK   FOR   SECONDARY   SCHOOLS  189 

per  week  which  are  to  be  devoted  to  the  domestic- 
art  work.  This  ffiay  handicap  the  teacher,  for  either 
Time  and  to°  niuch  or  too  little  time  may  be  al- 
lowed and  the  proper  balance  be  lost 
between  the  academic  and  household  arts  studies. 
The  time  should  naturally  be  regulated  by  the  aim 
of  the  particular  school  and  local  conditions,  but 
very  often  those  who  are  entrusted  with  the  regula- 
tion of  time  are  not  alive  to  the  differences  to  be 
kept  in  mind  and  do  not  understand  the  proper 
relationships  or  aims  of  the  various  types  of  schools. 
The  course  of  study  is  always  more  or  less  influ- 
enced by  the  particular  locality  or  environment — by 
environment  is  meant  all  the  peculiar  local  condi- 
tions which  affect  planning.  A  private  school,  for 
example,  located  in  a  suburb  where  there  is  oppor- 
tunity for  more  or  less  outdoor  life,  may  introduce 
into  its  course  problems  of  a  different  character  from 
those  which  may  be  of  particular  value  in  the  city 
school  under  other  conditions. 
The  cost  of  the  introduction  of  the  work  may  be  a 
problem  for  consideration,  but  in  the 

Cost  often 

affects  one's      majority  of  secondary  schools  the  pupils 

supply  most  of  their  own  materials.  The 

board  of  education  or  school  often  supplies  the  tern- 


DOMESTIC   ART 

porary  equipment  of  needles,  thread,  etc.,  and  nearly 
always  the  permanent  equipment  of  machines,  tables, 
and  other  articles  of  furniture.  Parents  are  usu- 
ally quite  willing  to  supply  the  necessary  materials, 
for  the  garments  produced  have  as  a  rule  a  utilitarian 
value  and  are  to  the  mother  an  economic  saving  of 
time,  labor,  and  money.  In  the  case  of  the  introduc- 
tion of  more  technical  or  trade  work,  it  is  not  possible 
for  the  home  to  furnish  the  necessary  supplies.  The 
work  in  order  to  be  of  most  value  must  be  of  a 
certain  variety,  and  the  materials  used  must  be  such 
as  will  be  worth  while  handling.  The  problem  of 
funds  to  meet  the  needs  is  a  serious  one,  but  is  met 
in  many  ways  by  the  ingenuity  of  those  in  charge. 
Shops  and  order  work  seem  to  be  the  best  solu- 
tion, but  also  have  difficulties,  for  patrons  wish  well- 
finished  results,  and  often  in  the  process  of  learning 
many  efforts  must  be  made  by  some  children  before 
a  creditable  piece  of  work  is  produced.  These  in- 
ferior articles  may  be  sold  for  little,  perhaps  just  to 
cover  costs  of  materials— and  must  often  be  sold  at 
a  sacrifice.  This  makes  the  trade  school  course  of 
study  a  particular  problem  in  itself  in  relation  to  cost, 
and  a  trade  school  will  always  be  an  additional  cost 
to  the  management  for  materials  on  account  of  the 


WORK   FOR   SECONDARY   SCHOOLS  191 

unavoidable  waste  during  the  process  of  learning. 
In  many  schools  of  classical  and  manual  training  type 
students  make  articles  for  sale  which  are  given  to 
the  school,  or  take  orders  for  household  linen  or 
other  articles  for  neighboring  institutions.  This 
may  or  may  not  be  an  excellent  plan  according  to 
management,  but  often  enables  a  school  to  purchase 
the  necessary  permanent  equipment  of  chairs,  ta- 
bles, machines,  etc.,  when  the  local  authorities  may 
not  be  able  to  do  so. 

Another  factor  to  be  considered  is  the  final  goal 
of  the  secondary  school.  This  will  be  more  fully  dis- 
Aim  of  each  cussed  in  considering  the  types  of  school. 

toPbee0kepthrn01  Is  the  course  to  prepare  for  college  en- 
mind-  trance  and  will  any  credit  be  given  for 

it  ?  is  a  question  which  the  domestic-art  teacher  faces 
in  the  planning  of  her  work.  The  selection  of  sub- 
ject-matter will  be  influenced  as  well  by  what  has 
gone  before  as  by  that  which  is  to  follow.  Have  the 
pupils  had  any  domestic-art  training  in  the  grades, 
what  has  been  its  scope,  in  what  grades  was  it  given, 
will  a  lengthy  review  be  necessary?  The  course 
must  be  moulded  accordingly  to  meet  these  con- 
siderations, which  must  be  kept  in  mind  if  the 
course  is  to  be  well  planned.  Very  often  the  do- 


192  DOMESTIC   ART 

mestic-art  teacher  discovers  that  the  grade  work  has 
been  almost  entirely  forgotten  because  of  its  dis- 
continuance during  the  seventh  and  eighth  years  of 
study. 

"When  society  enters  distinctively  into  a  new 
phase  of  its  evolution,  there  must  be  a  new  distri- 
bution of  educational  values."  The  greatest  diffi- 
culty which  the  teacher  of  domestic  art  must  face 
is  the  differentiation  of  courses  for  various  types  of 
secondary  schools,  for  unless  she  understands  the 
aims  and  conditions  which  affect  the  various  types 
she  is  not  apt  to  be  wise  in  her  selection  of  subject- 
matter  to  meet  those  needs.  As  society  has  entered 
this  new  phase  of  its  evolution,  the  industrial  era,  one 
finds  such  a  variety  of  types  of  secondary  schools  that 
it  is  difficult  to  distinguish  and  to  differentiate  the 
work  for  the  various  kinds,  because  of  the  general 
feeling  of  uncertainty  as  to  the  real  goal  of  each 
type.  Unless  the  aims  are  understood  the  distri- 
bution of  values  will  lack  balance  and  proportion. 
The  teacher  of  household  arts  must  guard  against 
the  temptation  to  think  that  her  subject  is  the  only 
one  in  the  curriculum  for  consideration. 

It  may  be  well  to  analyze  somewhat  briefly  the 
main  aims  of  some  of  the  types  of  secondary  schools 


WORK  FOR  SECONDARY   SCHOOLS  193 

and   to   follow   these   with   suggestive   outlines   for 
courses  of  study  under  varying  conditions. 

The  classical  high  school  or  the  classical  course 
in  high  school  seldom  permits  of  very  much  work  in 
Domestic  art  household  arts.  As  a  rule  the  girls  are 

in  a  classical  r  ,-,  i      n    ,1  •? 

high  school  preparing  for  college  and  all  the  avail- 
able time  must  be  spent  in  working  off 
the  necessary  requirements.  If  the  college  entrance 
board  would  accept  certain  "work  in  household  arts, 
it  might  be  possible  for  a  course  to  be  arranged 
which  would  not  only  have  a  classical  bearing,  but 
be  of  great  value  to  the  girl  in  her  development  and 
life  in  society.  When  household  arts  work  is  given 
in  the  classical  courses  it  is  nearly  always  elective, 
and  not  required,  as  it  should  be.  Fortunately,  how- 
ever, girls  feel  instinctively  the  need  of  this  work,  and 
their  natural  interest  leads  them  to  pursue  it  when- 
ever it  is  possible  for  them  to  do  so.  The  time  at 
most  is  very  short. 

The  outline  submitted  for  the  classical  type  of 
course  is  for  two  hundred  and  forty  hours  of  work, 
to  be  distributed  as  seems  best  in  relation  to  the 
other  work  of  the  school.  As  a  part  of  a  household 
arts  course  the  same  amount  of  time  should  be 
given  to  the  so-called  domestic  science  phases  of  the 


194  DOMESTIC  ART 

work.  The  work  of  the  classical  domestic-art  course 
should  be  interesting  and  offer  variety.  The  girls 
work  as  a  rule  on  problems  of  personal  interest  and 
the  main  aim  of  the  work  is  training  the  girl  for 
usefulness  in  her  home  and  in  her  relationships  with 
others. 

COURSE  IN  DOMESTIC  ART 

PART  OF  HOUSEHOLD  ARTS  COURSE  FOR  SECONDARY  SCHOOL  OF 
CLASSICAL   TYPE 

I.  Factors  governing  the  selection  of  this  subject-matter 
for  a  possible  condition. 

(1)  Previous  Training. — Hand-sewing  given  in  sixth  and 
seventh  grades  of  elementary  school. 

(2)  Secondary  Course  to  count  toward  college  entrance. 

(3)  Location  of  School. — Suburb  of  Philadelphia. 

(4)  Girls. — From  homes  of  best  middle  class.     Some  go  to 
college,  others  to  be  prepared  for  home  duties. 

(5)  Time. — Two   hundred   and  forty  hours,   to  be  distri- 
buted as  seems  best  in  working  out  programme  of  all  studies, 
possibly  three  hours  per  week  for  two  years. 

(6)  Cost. — Pupils  supply  nearly  all  materials. 

II.  Course  of  study. — Clothing, 
(i)  Problems. 

(a)  Underwear  (three  pieces). 

(b)  Shirtwaist  gown  or  simple  lingerie  gown  (one  piece  or 
waist  and  skirt). 


WORK   FOR   SECONDARY   SCHOOLS  IQ5 

(c)  Making   of   lined   gown. — (i)    Skirt — drop    skirt. — (2) 
Waist. 

(d)  Millinery. — (i)  Fall  or  winter  hat.     (2)  Summer  hat — 
straw  or  lingerie. 

(e)  Embroidery. — (i)  Table     cover    or    pillow    top.     (2) 
Lingerie  hat  or  underwear  (above  mentioned),  or  Christmas 
gift. 

(2)  Processes  involved  in  working  out  above  problems. 
(a)  Hand-sewing  (review). 

(6)  Machine-sewing. 

(c)  Drafting  with  use  of  patterns. 

(d)  Fitting  and  hanging  of  garment. 

(e)  Designing  for  decoration  and  draft  of  patterns. 

(f)  Computations  of  costs. 

(3)  Thought  Content  to  be  developed  while  presenting  above 
problems. 

(a)  Textile  study.     Source  of  materials,  properties,  manu- 
facture, design,  and  workmanship  of  textiles. 

(b)  Use  and  adaptation  of  commerical  patterns  and  relation 
to  drafting. 

(c)  Hygiene   in   relation   to   wearing   apparel.     Sweatshop 
labor. 

(d)  Study  of  relative  values  of  hand  and  machine  work. 

(e)  Suitability  of  apparel  in  relation  to  use  and  income. 
Line  and  color  to  be  adapted  to  wearer.     Economics  of  the 
purchase  of  materials,  prices,  widths,   quality,  etc.,  in  rela- 
tion to  use  and  planning  of  the  wardrobe.     How  to  reduce 
cost  with  good  effect. 

(/)  Training  for  accuracy,  neatness,  foresight,  and  respon- 
sibility.    Development  of  social  consciousness. 

(4)  Allied  Subjects. 


196  DOMESTIC  ART 

(a)  Art  in  specific  design,  color,  adaptation  of  line  to  space — 
relation  to  human  form.     History  of  costume  as  expression 
of  social  development;  appropriateness  of  clothing  and  beauty. 

(b)  Physics. 

(c)  Commercial  geography. 

(d)  Industrial  history. 

(e)  Economics  (simple  form). 

(/)  Physiology  (hygiene  of  clothing). 
(g)  Chemistry  (dyeing  of  materials). 

(5)  Related  Interests. — To  be  developed  while  teaching  above 
problems. 

(a)  Visits  to  shops,  factories,  museums,  and  libraries. 

(b)  Use  of  books  and  current  magazines  as  of  value  in  above 
study. 

(c)  Work  of  organizations,  as  Municipal  League,  Consum- 
ers'   League,    Board   of  Health,  Trades  Unions  (relation  of 
employer  and  employees). 

(d)  Sweatshop  problems,  duties,  customs  (imported  gowns, 
etc.). 

III.     Shelter  and  household  management. 

(1)  Problems. 

(a)  Making  of  charts  showing  relation  of  cost  of  clothing 
to  income,  also  charts  of  color  schemes  for  rooms  and  fur- 
nishings. 

(b)  Making  of  furnishings. — (i)  Scarf  for  table  or  pillow. 
(2)  Curtains.     (3)  Weaving  of  cover. 

(c)  Keeping  of  accounts — informal  talks  on  house  manage- 
ment in  relation  to  furnishings  and  clothing. 

(d)  Laundering  of  materials  (cleansing,  dyeing). 

(2)  Processes  involved  in  working  out  the  above  problems. 


WORK   FOR   SECONDARY   SCHOOLS  197 

(a)  Stencilling. 

(b)  Block  printing. 

(c)  Hand-loom  weaving.     Co-operative  work. 

(d)  Exhibits  in  school  of  rooms  furnished. 

(e)  Trial  of  method  of  keeping  personal  accounts. 

(f)  Cleansing  and  dyeing  of  old  materials. 

(3)  Thought  Content  to  be  developed  while  presenting  above 
problems. 

(a)  Artistic  and  beautiful  furnishings  of  home;    spirit  of 
home-making;   ethical  and  social  side;   kind  of  home  in  rela- 
tion to  income. 

(b)  Management  in  relation  to  repairs  of  clothing,  linen, 
rugs,  etc.     Care  of  clothing  and  house  furnishings.     Launder- 
ing of  materials. 

(c)  Keeping  accounts.     Clothing  and  furnishings,  their  rela- 
tion to  income. 

(d)  Economy  of  time  in  relation  to  making  and  use  of  home 
things. 

(e)  Business  management.     Simple  business  rules,  and  law 
for  women. 

(4)  Allied  Subjects. 

(a)  Art — study  of  design  materials,  color  in  relation  to  rooms. 

(b)  household  sanitation — in  relation  to  furnishings. 

(c)  Chemistry — color;    cleansing   of   wood   and   materials; 
dyeing,  laundering. 

(d)  Economics  (very  simple).     Law  of  supply  and  demand; 
money — fall  of  price. 

(5)  Related  Interests. 

(Same  as  above  subject,  (II)   Course  of  Study.     Clothing.) 


198  DOMESTIC  ART 

The  domestic-art  work  in  a  manual  training  high 
school  course  differs  principally  from  the  classical  in 

the  amount  of  time  given  to  the  sub- 
Manual 

training  high     ject.    The  work  is  generally  required,  at 

school  course.  .    . 

least  a  certain  number  of  points  of  it, 
and  opportunity  given  for  more  elective  work  where 
the  girl  is  interested  in  a  specialty  and  is  contem- 
plating more  advanced  training  after  leaving  the 
school.  The  main  aim  of  such  work  is  proficiency 
which  will  enable  the  girl  to  run  her  household  affairs 
intelligently  and  well,  or  make  it  possible  for  her  to 
go  into  other  schools  or  professional  establishments 
for  further  study  along  such  lines.  Many  of  the 
domestic-art  graduates  of  the  manual  departments  of 
high  schools  enter  dressmaking  or  millinery  estab- 
lishments in  ordej  to  become  more  proficient  along 
these  lines,  or  continue  into  higher  schools  and  later 
teach  this  specialty.  The  aim  of  the  manual  train- 
ing course,  as  the  work  has  been  planned  in  most 
manual  training  schools,  is  to  keep  in  mind  the 
development  of  the  girl  without  especial  emphasis 
on  the  vocational  aspect  of  the  work.  The  aim  of 
the  work  is  not  to  train  for  a  trade,  although  very 
often  some  of  the  students  do  specialize  in  such  a 
direction  because  of  the  interest  awakened.  The 


WORK  FOR  SECONDARY   SCHOOLS  199 

work  generally  offers  variety,  and  the  course  for  girls 
permits  of  many  phases  of  industrial  arts,  such  as 
metal  work  and  clay  modelling,  as  well  as  the 
household  arts  work  of  cooking  and  sewing.  The 
possibilities  for  such  courses  have  already  been 
enumerated  and  will  be  regulated  by  the  local  con- 
ditions determining  the  formation  of  plans. 

STUDENT  PLAN,  TEACHERS  COLLEGE 

DOMESTIC- ART  COURSE  FOR  MANUAL  TRAINING  HIGH 
SCHOOL 

CONDITIONS 

Size  of  City. — From  90,000-100,000  inhabitants. 

Nationalities. — American,  English,  German,  and  Scandina- 
vian. 

Elementary  Schools. — Some  hand-work  is  given  in  the  ele- 
mentary schools  in  this  city,  but  children  coming  from  outside 
settlements  and  smaller  cities  may  not  have  had  any  hand- 
work at  all. 

Higher  Institutions  of  Learning. — A  State  university,  a 
high  school,  and  several  church  high  schools  and  colleges. 

Further  Description  of  Environment. — The  largest  enterprises 
of  the  State  are  agriculture,  mining,  and  sheep  industry,  and 
this  city  being  the  centre  of  attraction,  a  good  deal  of  business 
is  carried  on  there.  The  city  has  several  large  department 
stores,  but  no  factories  of  great  importance.  Most  of  the 
people  have  their  own  homes,  and  as  a  rule  live  under  favor- 
able circumstances. 


200  DOMESTIC   ART 

AIM   OF   THE   SCHOOL 

The  aim  of  this  manual  training  high  school  course  in 
domestic  art  is  to  offer  to  girls  a  practical  education,  in  order 
that  they  may  discover  and  exercise  their  best  powers,  while 
obtaining  accurate  information  in  many  practical  problems  of 
life. 

The  special  aim  of  this  course  in  domestic  art  is  to  prepare 
the  girls  to  be  more  efficient  home-makers,  and  to  be  better 
prepared  to  take  their  place  in  society;  to  cultivate  an 
appreciation  of  home,  and  to  dignify  housework  by  improving 
the  method  of  work  as  well  as  the  articles  made. 

Throughout  the  course  emphasis  is  to  be  placed  upon 
economy,  suitability,  and  as  far  as  possible,  upon  the  culti- 
vation of  order,  neatness,  responsibility,  and  unselfishness 
whenever  there  is  a  natural  relationship. 

The  subject-matter  is  to  be  correlated  with  art,  history, 
geography,  nature  study,  arithmetic,  etc. 

Twenty  periods  a  week  are  to  be  devoted  to  academic  studies 
such  as  English,  mathematics,  science,  history,  language, 
music,  and  elocution.  By  a  wise  selection  of  studies  it  would 
be  possible  for  those  who  intend  to  go  on  to  college,  to  meet 
the  requirements. 

Ten  periods  a  week  are  given  to  domestic  art,  domestic 
science,  and  drawing.  Physical  training  will  have  to  be  given 
outside  of  the  ten  periods,  unless  the  hours  can  be  arranged 
differently. 

The  work  is  planned  for  one-hour-and-forty-minute  periods, 
which  may  seem  long  for  the  first  year;  but  as  a  rule  the  first 
year  high  school  girls  are  not  under  fifteen  years  old  and 
would  be  able  to  stand  it. 

A  good  deal  of  garment  and  dress  making  have  been  ar- 
ranged for  in  this  course,  for  the  reason  that  the  parents  are 


WORK  FOR  SECONDARY  SCHOOLS  2CI 

inclined  to  appreciate  the  utilitarian  value  of  this  subject  more 
than  the  educational;  hence  an  attempt  is  made  to  meet  the 
approval  of  the  parents  as  well  as  to  fulfil  the  aim  of  the  school. 
Many  mothers  depend  on  and  greatly  appreciate  the  help  the 
daughters  can  give  them  during  vacation  periods,  especially  the 
help  with  the  family  sewing.  This  is  one  of  the  reasons  for 
introducing  children's  clothing. 
The  school  year  is  thirty-four  weeks. 


2O2 


DOMESTIC  ART 


CO     .S 

IS. 


H          I     g 

g      '3   ^ 
S  *^ 


a 


H   i 

I  i 

•vi      .^i 


So 

II 


i  rit 

K  O  PH  ffl 


58    S 

Is 


O  8 

<u 

c 


B^a      |8E 
•as>:l     _-si? 

>,  «  .t!    C3          o          O 

I  •§  1 
C    9«'S 


£       «  -3  S  o  .SP  $    .  -§  g       fi 
S-jfl  ^iS  &S  SlTl  &8f3 


•c 


S  "  w  go 


PH  Cn  uH 


E  '^ 

-Si 

W  bB 
.S 


bo  °         P 

•a    bo         £ 
OT    C    ^    c 

g^^^ 


II 


J8J 


§    i 


s     8     J 


S  rt 


WORK  FOR   SECONDARY   SCHOOLS 


203 


it 

-o 

O    G 

--1    rt 

E||So|i 

Jtts^i 

§-a  s^g  ^-§ 

••*    V          G         'r1 

Suitability 
pose.  Linen 

IS  -a  a  -i.s 

a.8^11-3-0 
Ii-sigfl  . 

^  |1  1|  5  ll 

2  i,  a  '%    -§  S  3 

^ 

rt 

CO 

<f        <U 

W        ^ 

to 
•g 

1 

111 

g        § 

| 

^      S      OH 
0^ 

S    fi 

>, 

S     "^ 

lil 

w     >, 

M    t: 

o 

1 

M 

O 

?*.* 

W    bX)^    cj 
.S    0,0 

2 

0 

cj 

1 

<u 

bb  g 

1 

•S  2 

r^ 

o 

^    -u 

If 

O 

£ 

p 

H 

bbl 

H 

1. 

I-S- 

1 

rt  .y  <u 

"^ 

•ts» 

p  t.  g 

"^3 

Co 

<J  o 

1 

Domestic 

u 

O 

LO 

C) 

4 

o' 

e 

IS 

w 

03 

p 

1 

Q 

^3 

U 

3 

^ 

C 

^t 

3 

>—  * 

2 

O 

a 

OH 

H 

rfl 

C 

CONTEI 

atenes; 

omics, 

03 

ii 

H 

1 

OH 

O 

§ 

u 

•s  s 

<u    g 
o   H 

g 

o. 

OH 

£ 

So 
r< 

3   *3 

"C 

1    § 

8 

cf 

i 

bb 

1 

-r 

c 

a 

"ctf 

c" 

<£ 

••" 

OH 

'z 

bC 

^ 

bo 

1 

'5 
3 

1 

1 

Q 

13 

signing, 

tc 

8 

q 

bb 

g 

s 

bb 

rtwaist. 

"5 
1 

9 

.S 

^ 

"o 

"5 

c 

S 

U 

i 

11 

o 

M                                    \O 

W 

«  « 

sss 

204 


DOMESTIC  ART 


B 

°  8.                       k  §. 

k 

8 

8 

in  oo                                 O    w 

<*-: 

\  — 

vO 

v  ' 

P? 

if                1 

Q 

^1a                          ^ 

1 

^                o 

H 

c°  &~  T2      6      "£  ^  "a 

man- 

fr. 

43 

THOUGHT  CONTE 

o<t«-'c(+_       vw      "o  5  "3 

•s  g  *  °    °^g^g 

T™1        ^      -*->                   ».       "^3     '.""! 

^2  «  S       g  -c  g  >>  - 

liSiJHM 

w   ^bo^^w^CJ  <u   c  44 

^.S  S  2      S      S  8  ^ 

Properties  and 

ufacture.  Swea 
labor. 

1  -o  |                ^      ^ 

i 

a 

• 

^Pf            11 

I 

1 

w 

O      -*-*       S                                          ^                              K* 

o 

r—         ^ 

Q 

^6                 W)       be  c 

"id 

C  .ti 

« 

"S  "^    ^  'C                      .S           C  '5 

"dJ 

^  S 

c!     a)          -i->                                     '2    ^ 

.S  «  W)^               c       §  g 

fe 

0) 

*C  "35  "55                     .S        ttf 

ll 

8C/3 
S 

ss                              5 

I 

1                                             "    8    g» 

i 

u 

'O                                       _t»  ^  •-< 

T3 

H 
M 

"S  *i                          £  J2  *o 

_fi    cfl                                   T3  .b    2 

summer 

3  o                            1 

uj 

og 

10                                     o 

EA  B  O 

fO                                                         Hi              VO 

ro 

oag 

to 

CO 

WORK  FOR  SECONDARY   SCHOOLS 


205 


cu 

•sb 


£ 
"So 

w 

w 

1 

OH 
CU 


W         OH  J2     ^ 

oil! 

PH         £       4) 

a  '§  ^o 


S    o3 

2    £    Jrt 


O 


0 

o  o                     60 

H 

H 

ro   to                                  O     O 

8 

* 

0*   o'                          M    ci 

e 

W 

1 

'5 

f? 
D 

Q 

W 

, 

g>  1 

"^     .    W) 

!2  "^ 

n 

<^ 

Q  o  W" 

£>     <L> 

3 

"o 

^ 

u 

^ 

;GHT  CONTENT 

i 

.s 

i|i|j 

•s  5P'^  22^ 

°    C    To    o   *3    dj 

c  ;s  *-g  ^  '%  3 

^073    rt  T3  ^-,  '^ 

:ction  of  pictures 
catalogues 
d. 
ig-room  and  li- 
iving-room. 

g 

3 

b^  d  3  'S  -M  ia 

5  Is  '|a  g 

g^  ^G-^ 

=3  6  e  is  >; 

U2|Q  g 

•  t  (     Q            J2 

^5  ^ 

o  ^ 

i                        i 

g                 -s 

.1 

i 

I'-S 

"c  -                     * 

* 

Q 

03^-                             WJ 

. 

o 

O       4-* 

^  g                   .£ 

^1     ^* 

PH 

1. 

Ill 

D    a3 
«    "                              1      . 
^^"                             §    g> 

Ul                             ^1 

.?^ 
&| 
^S 

a,  bo 

?                                            U 

(U 

<u 

1 

w 
o 

.§ 

1 

fe  •             1 

H 

a 

eg                g 

1 

1 

"H'&               3 

KJ    Ji                          d 

1 

in 

ffi                        H 

u 

§ 

II 

\o 

O                                    Tt 

M 

M 

o  a 

«  H 

1 

M 

206 


DOMESTIC   ART 


3     g 


!l 

:l 


.s  dts.d 


•3  g 


*       H' 

^a 


<D  c 

W  " 


"S  bb 

rt  ^g 


3 
a, 


£  .s 

O       l-c     "^ 

8 11 


55  S 


ot 


WORK  FOR   SECONDARY  SCHOOLS 


207 


0    0 

o  >^ 

8 

8 

8 

8 

<J 

CS     N 

<  —  „ 

—  / 

CO 
*  

M 

§ 

ts  'a 

Cfl 

8 

2  2 

2 

C/j 

•8 

Q 

ti 

"5  .ti 

0 

c 

1 

V 

|j 

<j 

^  »> 

8 

a 

" 

3 

a 

0  ^ 

-H 

3 

oj    O 

-g 

ti 

.S 

^ 

H 

0 

"o  .t! 

o 

"g 

0 

11 

o 

bo 

>% 

So 

W 

^ 

"r^ 

*7^ 

a  •£ 

a, 

tn 

_Q 

8 
S 

(3 
rt 

*O 

>.! 

C    rt 

a 
•s 

i 

M 

"rt 

o 

^3 
a  .s 

a 

bb""1 

•1  c 

•5     0 

u 

.S 

§ 

a 
-c 
c 

THOUG1 

•2S 

to 

Harmo 
demonstr 

C^     rCj 

fl)  t^j 

0     ° 

.-f 

cuco 

occasion. 
Relatio 
spent  for 

»-i   3 

43   O 
0 

1 

.S 

6 

judgment 
material. 

^ 
o 
"C 

c; 

H^ 

reliance. 

bJO 

wfO 

bC 

J 

0 

<U 

M 

M 

<u  ^ 

^ 

bb 

C 

c  S 

C 

"o 

2 

•  PH 

."t^ 

«*H 

i-Q    O 

Cfl 

£-. 

1 

1 
T3 

>-i    rt 

If 

(H 

bo  w 

S 

3 

& 

"8  bb 

i 

tc 

bO 

.S 

*5 

a  u 

'C 

0 

:  trimmii 

M 

bO 

C      . 

|8 

c 

^T 

1 

c°i 
!•- 

tj 

3 

•s 

I 

If 

|! 

.S 

1—  1 

13 

rt 

0 

rt    bB 

a 

I 

^o  -b 

U  T3 
C 
rt 

I 

oT 

rt 

^ 

"*    <u 

0 

"c 

03 
Z 

T3 
§ 

£  •« 

M 

rt 

o    °* 

cfi 

4) 

0 

|| 

•S 

43 

bb 

'rt 

W 

J 

rn      G 

.s. 

*i 

c 
.2 

a  *-• 

H 

3 

C     ^ 

*^ 

pfl 

O    3 

M 

s 

tJ 

i 

M 

n-g 

a 

1 

i 

O 

i  1 

(D 

L~4 

rt    [A 

5^0« 

««§§ 

« 

M 

vo 

* 

Tf 

s  ^  ^  « 

i 

•<t 

w 

S  Q  S  W 

G  g  51  5J 

M 

CC 

a  5 

208  DOMESTIC  ART 


STUDENT  PLAN,  TEACHERS  COLLEGE 

DOMESTIC- ART  COURSE  OF  STUDY  FOR  A  MANUAL  TRAINING 
HIGH  SCHOOL 

This  course  of  study  in  domestic  art  is  plann  d  for  a  manual 
training  high  school  in  a  Western  town  of  a  population  of  about 
sixty  thousand.  A  large  part  of  this  population  is  made  up  of 
Germans  who  are  comfortably  well-to-do  and  home-loving 
people.  The  school,  which  is  splendidly  equipped  in  every 
way,  is  located  in  the  central  part  of  the  city  directly  across 
the  street  from  the  classical  high  school  and  furnishes  to  the 
students  of  this  classical  high  school  whatever  manual  work 
they  may  elect  to  take  as  well  as  regular  courses  in  the  manual 
arts  which  are  arranged  for  its  own  students. 

Most  of  the  girls  who  attend  the  manual  training  high 
school  come  from  thrifty  families  with  comfortable  homes. 
About  three-fourths  of  these  girls  remain  at  home  after  gradu- 
ation and  many  of  them  eventually  marry  and  have  homes  of 
their  own.  Of  the  remaining  quarter,  some  go  on  to  higher 
education,  usually  technical,  some  wishing  to  become  teachers 
take  normal  courses,  and  others  enter  the  trade  or  business 
world.  Domestic  art  is  taught  in  the  seventh  and  eighth 
grades  of  the  elementary  school  so  that  the  girls  on  entering 
high  school  have  some  knowledge  of  the  different  stitches  and 
their  applications. 

There  are  two  teachers  of  domestic  art  in  this  high  school. 
The  average  number  of  girls  in  a  class  varies  from  ten  to 
fifteen,  rarely  exceeding  fifteen. 


WORK  FOR   SECONDARY  SCHOOLS  209 

AIM   OF   COURSE   IN   DOMESTIC  ART 

To  help  the  girls  to  grow  into  well-rounded  women  who 
will  be  equipped  to  meet  home  and  social  problems  in  an 
intelligent  and  practical  manner. 

To  develop  in  the  girls  a  higher  appreciation  and  enjoyment 
of  beauty  and  harmony  and  to  offer  practical  work  which  shall 
aid  them  in  attaining  this  harmony  and  beauty  in  their  own 
lives. 


2IO 


DOMESTIC  Airr 


bo 


IS 
ll 

!l 

hi 


-!->     en 

S  ^ 

i  £ 

-c 

«  -a 

•g"0 

J8 

•3 

•o-o 

4! 

'il! 

s  J 

%  -c 

&)     £H 

T^ 

O    *~* 

f-C    ^ 

o 

<u 

ctf    cj 

Cu 

u 

c3    ^n 

«s  S 

•§.*! 

oj 
"5 

c  .§ 

c  "C 

"!n"  ^ 

en 

1 

Ti    c 

E 

ri 

43 

bC  (_- 

y$ 
o 

% 
1 

en  **H 

C  "TJ 
3  C)_l 

,§•£ 

o 

•->    ea 

&l 

c    ^ 

nateria 
prices, 

bO  ^ 
C     ™ 

IS  >^ 
2-° 

11 

G    "en 

c 

'«  ^ 

M  .5 

cj 

'5b  o 

SJ 

S 

'Hn'+H 

cu    rt 
,Q    en 
-2   S 

'3 

g     0 
ctf    en 

•0-3 

r£, 

•ji    en 

2  -5 

•E  ^ 

T3 

en  .23 

cu  ^q 

SH 

"8 

•c 
o 

g 

scussio 
eir  con 

11 

^  c 

"E. 
£ 

r-s 

11 

M     •*-• 

a 

en    qj 

15 

'3  c 

en     C 

13 

§^ 

'So  •? 

CQ 

c 

S- 

'S  •£ 

^  ^ 

Q  H 

o  B 

4 

bo 

§0 

g| 

o 
•  "o 

j^ 

13 

SB 

"bb  >-> 

c  -C 

i 

II 

H  PH 

2  OH 

0-1     iJ 

O  w 

u  S 

0 

o 

^    « 

O    en 

O  ^ 

S 

5 

11 

i 

J2i 

.s 

i  "o 

6§ 

•»-» 

CJ 

IQ 

H 

lu 

^ 
.  :2 

rt 

-0    g 

CJ 
IH 

1 

g>! 

> 

S 

~f. 

C 

9 

o    bb 

THOUGHT  CONTEN 

Habits  of  neatness 
curacy  encouraged. 

en   'C 

ll 

O     «+H 

•g    £ 
rt^ 

"H    +2 
O    "tn 

i  5 

linen  tape  in  underwe 

of  corset-covers;  o' 
brought  from  ho 

patched  and  mended, 

Proportions  of  figu 

o 

1 

o 
o 
rt 

1 

0 

u 

measuring  and  draftii 
struction  of  skirt.  Ai 

w 

.  £.* 

ir" 

cr       «r 

D     .    o> 

S| 
1   &| 

£  S.  ^ 
^2  S 

si 

g-« 

cd    bo 

I'l 
O  *^3 

J,    0 

bb 

% 

c 

bb 

6 

bb^ 

*^ 

.£  to 

CJ 

g 

^c 

_c 

g 

en 

tJ  .S 

g 

'.TJ 

_^ 

5  ^ 

S 

bb  S 

3  ^) 

« 

2 

rt 

—    - 

W 

.S  *j 

S 

"o 

~ 

Q 

H 

g 

3    S 

bC 

O 

W-t 

^J 

1 

%    * 
11 

it 

^g 

^ 

bb 

g 

o 

f£ 

1 

e£ 

3 

"3 
o 

"3  "^ 
U  < 

^  T3 

en    en 

o> 

i 

, 

, 

g 

>  1 

o   2 

^ 

C 

3 

1 

.1 

O 
H 

u  « 

•S  § 

c 

•8 

§ 

H 

APPLICA 

«  -^ 

i-<     flj 

u| 

Ito  review 
and  pi 

1 

! 

1 
Q 

1  derskirt. 

0 

1 

t¥ 

^  P 

e/;     £ 

WORK   FOR   SECONDARY   SCHOOLS 


211 


<u 

'g.s 

g 
o  -o 

<-i-i     a; 

II 


11 


ies  of  table- 
llected  in  note- 
Study  of  linen, 
production,  an 
cture. 


I  I'll 

^  '.3  i    ° 

QJ  nj   rj   CQ 


a  sail 


o  oj  ^  .2  ii 

w  3  S  ^3  "rt 
•"S  .+;  o  o  3 
cfl  2  M  ?H 

>I15I 


l 


It 

c1^  e 

-^    bo  ^ 


^  6 


<U     4)     Cj   JJ 

13  ffi  6  3 


.ujuS 

1  6  1  -a 


212 


DOMESTIC  ART 


J 

o  3 

x  •-. 


<  c-g  3 
..2-S« 


El 


f! 


.    - 


S  .2 
Jo  'S 

S"-   "  = 
?"S-g  s^  »   .5 

fli  i-G      <""*  C      r«    **"* 

*  c  .w>  -3  o  .g  g  *j    . 

2  -3  !  "8 .3 1  :§  •§  I 


"  ^  S  -  g  S 

•  S  £  3  ^  ^     „, 


83 


O 
EL 


Bf  "iU 

1/2  5  ^^3  ^  c5 

.s  -s  £  s  &  a 


r«    rn  ir**  CJ    c!      ^ 

-g  -3    o    bc^    §    Jg    <u 

.s  .s  2  -2  s  &  a  2 

^  ^  2  «  ««        o  2 

M-  «-5?g  §.&f -2 

^OjOcj-^tlRJ 

•si  &^^  3  a-0 

•g'S  ^^-5> 
*  ^  S  ^  ^  .2  c 

33    o    2    °  '^  ^ 

gggJl^ 


«I 


W|l"8l  I 

<L>   ^  O 

B  ,  *  8  -s  a 


C     C   H 

^•2  S 
SI'S 

t3   ^     «u 

"o  8  u 


C  <u    bb 

cj  >^  C 

<u  Q  -r 

p— <  r-H      ?>^ 


C      $      O      50 

•a  §  « .s 

S-^ii 
MM>?g 


^ 


5  1 1 


WORK  FOR   SECONDARY   SCHOOLS 


213 


s? 


O    SH 
"^ 

•sl 


-   H 

^ 


-£  J2  "o  —  rt 

v»-i     O   *7     P- 

0  u       S  ? 

Hi!!, 

.y  c   o  j2  -^  RJ 

PH  iS    >-    (o  .g  -J3 
d    C    O    <u  <+H 


"J  T3  c 
en  C  O 
•*£  Cd  U 


11 


£  .2  _:  x 

I  b 


oj  "tfi    ^"O 
•  •-<  "-^    (**i  *r7J 


wffi 


J-l  t/}  C/5 

O  O  OJ 

"o  -S  .S 

CJ  ^^  ^-('. 


bb  3 

2  ^ 
S  s 


ook^;  j§ 

8    .^-S 
c  c   2  o 

:i  ° 


•5.5-5 

*"    be  o  «« 
c.«  °   g, 


•si 


U     O 
C^     4J 


«  .5 

,31 


o-°  -a 


|ri 

•3  g 

O 


1     <J    C     c 

I  W  -fl  -I 


o  g  4 

O  >*-i 

o   o 


ed 


'O      r. 


^'S5 


oj    O 
g    jj 

J 


"oc  O 
~  ^ 
°  *i 

S  2 

^  3 

S    u 


ol-B 


^2     be 


O    bO 


a' 
<u    «J  • 


»t« 


CO 


bo  2r 

c  .a 


•  a 
IS 


U    u 


v^    3      .      •  "O    C    bb  3 

'i°gi2ai° 


m  ^2  .  bb 
c  =  S.3 
=  1*1 

5iii 


_^  T3    ^  ,> 

«    1^    > 
^    «    S    g 

«  I  >-S 
£81 


g^   & 
g   |  ^ 

o  is  % 


214 


DOMESTIC  ART 


is 

S 

k 

11 

"Hi"" 

z 
2 

•aJ! 

d 

a 

w 

;£: 

3 

1 

li. 

J 

j 

i 

a 

aj 

.r; 

o         •*-» 
(j  jo  .S3 

'C   ^ 

S 

rt 

cotton 

i£ 

o 

^ 

•g 

-o 

^ 

iT 

ll 

be  en 

,9     0 

«  §  rt  -3  k 

.2  g  . 

0 

•j> 

j, 

ra 

c 

1-1  g 

S?           o 
£>  O    o 

,*J 

1 

c 

7 

•p* 

§3 

t-C                     fl 
"      ^     -f-l 

i> 

•f 

1 

1 

8g 

o 

1 

j= 

_u 

S 

§|P§t 

^^3  g  SH  & 
««|  §       1 

llpi^il  1 

~                      -i-J^fljTjiS              cj 

.  •?  *s  .S  -3  3  J  <  .1    I 

_c 
.5 

v 

u 

'3 

_c 

U 

X 

ii 
o 

fl 

E 

s 

1 

H 

n 

I  .  ^  1  A  1 

§  -S   «>  a  g  H 

•*  g  -S  <  •* 

..  .    ;>    TJ  ^s  . 

^  -c  £     "«  « 

C   'S     bJD    '      ^     4J              .   *5           ^ 

•^^c>>c.>«'a<    . 
•g      'S^ObcrtS       ii    . 

JjtM'SffScn^.,^           co^C 
0  £c/:    M.b^     «    g|-~.SP 

c 

>> 

13 
5 

.2 

« 
S 

C 

ti 

1 

THOUG 

to  -a        .  tJ  £ 

C     rC           .        flj     JTJ     '^H 

|2.ii  §t: 

8,8^1^ 

o  S  .  ^  ^   %  * 

&3-%£  &§ 

^<U                 2  ^    §  ^    S  I  J 

5o     •  j  MH        ra_,F-i<«ro 

rtc-K^     c^.e^^ 

^'3.3     .   o   u       ^'-'^•73 
bJDhSw^        cJH°J3o 

G    $    >           S     E2    d  XJ    -t-j  •—  '    O 

•|ll^iiilli° 

-OcJu5rto^3CXtlSo 

1 

wearer.  Sui 

| 

0 

^3 

i 

"1 

bb  bb 

^ 

^ 

£ 

.S  pc 

m 

E 

W 

(3  'S 

tb 

tb 

t/} 

I«H 

bb 

c 

W 

•   ^ 

_c 

•  ^H 

1 

|bbf 

"c 

.§3 

S 

u 

| 

«3    C    en 

Q!S!S 

Q 

bb 

tb 

S 

£ 

•5 

^ 

1 

11 

1 

1 

^  Q 

^ 

H 

^           C3* 

a 

& 

.9 

y 

_ 

Hi 

p 

WORK   FOR   SECONDARY   SCHOOLS 


215 


T3    n    «                 '      '     en     ' 

*^    C 

O  ,2    o                 t$    *•'  T!    3 

£  .2 

bo  8  *t3             ^    g  'bo1" 

jy  ts 

»O                                     *"^ 

ex  c 

^       Q       >•»                         t+H       &0     >^     O 

6  IS  g 

tJO  ^                      T3 

S  £  o 

K    A    X 

aa         3               C  -a    <n  «,_ 

<u  g  2 

ju  *o  g            o  5  -S  o 

c  o  -S 

So     ^             O   "^     S     iJ 

i  "3  a 

c^     C3     cj     *"*           »^     C3            *-" 

<U     0     3 

X    bO  +J  'bO         0    rt    OT    3 

i-  T3  *., 

H  '55  a  a)       ^   >>  "S  .H 

2  o  c. 

MM        O        V 

T3  j^j  -5               cu  'C  P-i 

C    bO^S 

||          HI* 

1          u  1  .s5! 

§  IP! 

8'5- 
w  3  « 

III 
fi'&l 

rt  ,O     H 
o         £_, 

c  ^ 

IjJ 

simple  pattern.  Economy  of 
time  in  planning  work  sys- 
tematically and  in  having 
tools  for  work  arranged  in 
convenient  manner.  Remodel- 
ling of  old  cotton  dress,  as 
class  problem  for  discussion. 
Correlation  with  art  depart- 
ment, shewing  in  sketch  how 
this  could  be  done.  Economy 
in  clothes. 

Good  design.  Good  color 
combination.  Value  of  artis- 
tic production.  Lack  of  ar- 
tistic element  in  machine- 
made  articles  of  the  day. 
Beauty  of  simplicity  with 
good  line  and  richness  and 
beauty  of  color  combination. 
Possibilities  in  application  of 

stencil  used  on  dresser  scarf  to 
other  articles  in  the  room.  In- 
dividuality in  decoration.  Ar- 
rangement of  bedroom.  Good 

| 

& 

tb 

« 

C/D  *o 

2     'c  ^      s  |>  S  r 

i 

tnO^'OWcu'SQ^ 

3 
u 

2l6 


DOMESTIC  ART 


~      li    -T1      C    -~      £    -S       ^^ 

s  5  J  .§  2    |  •§,  S 

C/3    *•*-*                O    »3;    *£J                Q      ^ 

O          ..  ,£3    bC  OJ    <iJ  rr!    -IS1 

| 

&,  r-    ^  PH    fli    CX^    ^  a 
6    O^j^     0^    S  13 

O    -f!             'H    '  —  '      i/l    ^      -^ 

<§   ®        &<^   >   o       ^ 

1 

«_,  c  o  .5  ^  T3       2  -^ 

>% 

S 

^  .0    ^    ti    g           J§          ^3 

t/)_Q      1)      rj      CdX^r-C.^      ^ 

1 

<  S  -S   o  -S        ^  >  -c 

bO 

g-S2^2Sc3a 

's 

Q  H 

cj   u    «    «        ^  «t5  13 

3§ 

o  '-^  S  c3      iH  2  3 

*r;  o>  >  <•>  w       u  c 

g  W 

2£ 

2  g  q-«  S  o-o| 

—  '   o  .S   5   o        S  1^5 

CORRELAT 
RELATED  I 

«  T3           rtg^rtbb 

s  .a  8  J  J  3  §  al 
ulil?>lll 

^    «   -3    O          C    tn   -S 

CONTENT 

•ss   i-3-;Si^.r 

<UU           0*tlH^n3> 

II    IS  ..s-S? 

s^S^l^gj 

.  tag  ^111?  3d 

g  2  ?£:§  s  Jig     8 

<4-C      •!->         1 

O  4^  T3 

«^^ 
1^ 

§    ^^ 

tf1<3 

THOUGHT 

8      U     8  -^  g  °    .  ^ 

cr  ^      ^   >^,Ji|  T3  -S    tn  "^    a 

••*  a  jf  s  „  s  i  •*  3  -° 

^       ^^S^^-u^ci 
S   So--   S   ^   o"  °   c  *>  "* 

s^S^^^So^t-1" 

^43?           ^^rtt,OT3 

s  ^    g> 

«^.H 

.2    .  -^  g 

1  l-s  s. 

"o  T3     V     t£ 

CO  "O  T3     c 

^  ^Q  "3 

g 

bC 

tn 
» 

-d 

W 

3 

i 

.^§ 

Ck 

li 

5 

o    g    a 

U3 

"^  °^ 

IH            O  -S 

o   u  U   o 

3 

"a1"     <u 

S 

o  «  -s  .S; 

< 

U    e5    -S    td 

6  'a,  o 

WORK  FOR   SECONDARY   SCHOOLS 


217 


_r 

c 

0 

- 

^)  "o 

PS  2  ^ 

«r°  i 

g 

_c 

.a 

0 

^c 

^      ^ 

£  ^2  '^ 

'I  E  § 

Q 

•s 

V 

0 

3 

cfi    C 

^  bJD  *-* 

en 

3 

>> 

"3 

•5 

!l 

§  -°  -5 

rS   rt   g 

o> 

1 

| 

5 

§ 

£ 

1 

% 

3 
c 

V 

3 
C 

is 

..  .  'O  QJ 

0  g  N 

j|| 

^         tu 

'^  -5  -S 

$** 

3* 
.1 

^ 

H 

<ji 

~ 

^ 

.2   bi 

S  *n  S 

^    cJ'rt 

*2 

rt 

8 

•5  .a 

c  "S  a 

"5 

fejQ 

f 
*5§ 

QH 
*I 

in 

<3 

0 

t^.,. 

£  W 

Is 

t 

h 

^ 

>¥ 

^ 

.y 

-*i» 

2g 

1 

S 

a 

i 

o$ 

H 

5 

?Q 

•§ 

r  K    ^ 

(A 

r3 

Jour  Periods  per  Week.  ( 
Decoration,  and  Milliner 

THOUGHT  CONTENT 

o 

I 

rt 

"S 

_c 
>, 

T3 
3 
In 
jo 

t< 

H 

-5 

^ 
It 
'I 

"8 

S 

1 

u 

Adulterations  of  wool.  Econ- 

"rt 
•C 
_o 

rt 

bC 
c 
'>> 

j 

.£ 

0 

u 

+•>    ^ 
CO 

If 

en  "O 

"o  rt 
o  ^ 

.a  o 

0    <-> 

hn  -^*  rl 

C  3  In 

1-^1 

en  «  M 

I3! 

^  .  S 
^13  ^ 

||| 

^•s  I 

5  bO  ^ 

^  .S  -|3 

i-s-g, 

Jri 

bfiW  •« 

.S       S 

?n       .     rt 

s  '  ^  a 

•S^ 

C    0    rt 
^  rt    0) 

wise  planning.  Hygiene  of 
clothing.  Care  of  clothing. 
Brushing,  sponging,  pressing, 

removing  spots,  hanging  up, 

packing  away  for  summer. 
New  braids.  Darning  of  dif- 

^ 

1 

u 

1 

? 

2 

^H 

a  njj 

>_, 

« 

. 

^ 

d, 

O  "^ 

.^ 

s 
O 
••£» 

Z 
§ 

1 

•S 

c; 

tb 

13  o 

!  ^ 

1 

2 

ft 

^ 

| 

•si 

°  'a 

s 

C/2 

•F 

.s3 

1 

II 

.si 

bb 

.S 

"E, 

. 

^ 

2 

H 

15 
rf 

•1 

1 

0 

3 

1 

>. 

1 

< 

Q 

0 

~o 

> 

% 

218 


DOMESTIC  ART 


2  "^- 

2  ^ 

to    en 

o  « 

'55 

C 

1          <L>     <-!-( 

cn    cn    O 

b£ 

P    3 

c 

-73  -^ 

42    w 

fc  .S 

.£2 

g. 

•£ 

.2^2 

"5. 

O    j-j 

.h  •« 

"S    rt 

44   fi 

PH 

3 

rt 

"Z 

So.o 

O  ^ 

HH   dc 

o" 

C^ 

*i  i 

"C  ^-i 

-6 

2 

*+-c 

0 

•  £ 

0 

'c    O'" 

^ 

1 

Q 

o  S 

«  8 

^^ 

5 

room, 
collect: 

8 

t/3       O 

CJ     O 

^f 

1 

1 

O 

«3    £, 

-a£s 

c 

13 

C 

_O     >-i 

C     O 

3     b£ 

•2  TJ 

*Q 

£j      (/i    ^Cj 

^ 

£^   -2 

•i-H      ^_K^ 

^j 

C/) 

r\ 

"*-*     C    "*""* 

S 

S 

P     1 

'S..9 

H^ 

1)3 

S  '?75    O 

SD 

11 

|| 

1! 

i^ 

II 

mestic 

B2 

a,  _^ 

0     0 

0     « 

a 

j  Q 

^      J-i 

c    S 

<4H            ^ 

o  ^ 

Hn  .* 

S  w 

!i 

s| 

* 

-S  ^ 

p  2 

.l°'i 

*5    P 

bb.l 

C      ^ 

°  « 

^     0 

55  £ 

.ti  ^5 

THOUGHT  CONTENT 

ferent  kinds  of  tears.  Re- 
modelling of  old  clothes. 
Good  design  and  color  com- 
bination. Beauty  in  simplic- 
ity of  line  and  harmony  of 
color.  More  healthful,  sim- 

pie  furnishings.  Dangers  and 
disadvantages  of  plush  and 

much  upholstery.  Furniture, 
simple  and  comfortable.  Wall 

finishes.  Rugs.  Draperies. 
"Bric-a-brac"  —  inartistic  pro- 
ductions of  present  day. 

Windows  arid  their  treatment, 
inside  and  outside  effect.  Pos- 

sibilities in  inexpensive  hang- 

ings,  etc.,  decorated  at  home. 
Simplicity.  Sanitation  of 
curtains.  Cleansing  of  cur- 
tains. 

| 

u 

1 

w 

H 

. 

*o 

§bb 

W 

*3    fc 

W) 

JH 

O 

£& 

c 

g 

'&  o 

03 

en  ^ 

^H 

^ 

11 

-o  & 

-5   i 

bX>  "5 

J>  A 

g 

0  <2    fc 

to 

o  H 

'^  Q 

*™^ 

.S  Jg 

S  ^ 

'% 

o 

fH 

•  ^  ^3 

cj          O 

H 

o    fl 

C  CJ 

£ 

"O  »2  o 

^x 

g 

«  .2 

4;    ^ 

0 

gj    M 

c/5 

*g    «J  O 

o 

S 

CM 
< 

|| 

|| 

ration 
X)ms. 

II 
51 

o 

1 

I 

bC         <" 

> 

1 

T3 

-°     rt 

0    C 

M    d 

o 

13    C    0 

2 

WORK  FOR   SECONDARY   SCHOOLS 


219 


( 

M-( 

^2o       .tJC^s^So^ 

^  «  •"        "  .2  .^  _§  -55  c  •" 

•a 

"S* 

o  "~"  .S       ^  t3  "^.  bo  o>  .2  -2 

.S 

1 

§ 

fcjfl       ^  1  I  1  ^  1  *S 

c 

1) 

1 

|.2  x^^^l  ^  §"8  J 

ro 

s 

t/5 

o,  rS  *~~*   ^   ^3     ^  i^         *>  ^    p  , 

g 

5 

^•alJlJ^SssI 

12 

"•i 

II 

1 

O-O.S          bcra8'£§o:^ 

i 

!i 

•1 

1 

CORRELATK 
RELATED  IN 

'bb  -2    6    ra 

wsa  & 

£jj  o 

s 

i  I  i      -S  .2  x|  i  si  ^ 

design  in  embroide 
of  hat  to  wear 
de  frame  necessary 
ring  hat. 

K. 

3        K 

5      .   s 
><    ^  .§ 

1  IS 

1  Ji 

IOUGHT  CONTENT 

^^m                      (U'r^CPMl-o 

£|S    MI^S66 

|°.2       |°  I|  8  o-2 

•s||  :w||||el 
lalS^S^l^l 

g^o  o  g^W^  |^^^ 

rj     frt     rt 

H 

§  "o  ^  ^  •§    .  ^^  -o  °  i- 

8  .s  1  s  I  .?•!  1  a  g  a 

O  '"^  ^  ^~^ 

V* 

W  .ti  T3  c  co  '>,  B  '^  <u  .2  « 

(2  S  1 

^ 

3S-S    ^u<^^o 

^  >^  +1 

b 

Jj  -33    o5         bb  bb  bb 

p  "  ^ 

CJ     O    ti  . 

hi 

C/3 

^  <   o-      .c  tc  ^ 
^    bb^          3  g  .*§ 

Wire-frann 
ing.  Embn 
Covering  oi 
Trimming. 

I 

PROCESS! 

^  bb  ^  'C  w   2   rf  g 

.S    *J  h         Q  §  £ 

^i 

i 

^"o           ^ 

<u          . 
_<    w    O 

•2'z;  s 

o 

O 
H 

III    1 

z:  «  2 

s 

0 

--1    "J^  ^         i 

2 

^  ^fTJ 

C-H 

>FH    o    «         r^    bO 

2'l 

* 

SH    "1 

220 


DOMESTIC   ART 


51! 

IS  £3 

0 

'So 

0) 

c   fc 

3  A 

o  ^ 

151 

g-s  -s 

nee  on 

sumer. 
many 

3  $ 

£  -o 

in 
3    -u 

T3 
U 

c 

DISCUSSION 

made  by  the  g 
that  they  may  b 
familiar  with  the 

'33 

M—  t 

0 

c 
a 

0 

« 
s 

CJ 
PH 

c/T 

is 

IH 

.2 
IS 

CJ 

i—  i 

is  to  be  helped 
derstand  more  f  u 

duties  and  respoi 
ties  as  a  part  of 
cial  unit.  She 

realize  her  influe 

industry  as  a  con 
Her  interest  in 

T3  43 

^° 
§§ 
11 

to  cr 

44 

03 

£ 

3 
1 

D  H 

. 

i 

, 

• 

£r 

W 

.^ 

§| 

S 

.CJ 

_ 

* 

<D 

(U 

a 

•a  3  x 

1 

gH 

43 

.rt   'o    ^ 

rt 

li 

U 

c 

(U 

c 
o 

* 

c5 

H 

.s  s's 

*o  S  g 

,-.    ~  RJ 
o  3  U 

'33 

O  OJ 

p 

tUD 

TD 

3 
42 

^ 

iccounts. 
means. 

i  $  e 
MS 

.    m 

D    3 

S  M    aJ 

& 
g 

1 

c 

ome  and 
inmates. 

igj 
rj 

s  .s 

O    "*~* 

rstematic 
working. 

THOUGHT  CONTE! 

Dress  as  the  expressi 
dividuality.  Healthf 
fortable  clothing. 

to 

c 

1 

U 

fcC 

c 
"o 

Customs  duties  on 
gowns.  Influence  o 

on  industry. 
Apportionment  of  t 
et.  Keeping  of  i 
Living  within  one's 

Saving.  Choice  of  ho 
rangement  of  home, 
connected  with  horn 

0 

j 

'c 

Spirit  and  ideals  of  h 
their  influence  on  its 

1  1 

c3 

.ti   c 

S  a 

and  energy  in  s) 
methods  of  living  and 

Necessity  of  system. 

W 

*O 

rt 

g 

| 

0 

C 

s    . 

P 

'  i 

«   !8 

CJ   c 

to 

S  2 

.2 

"55 

| 

o 

§P  « 

•< 

H-J 

C    .   "I 

L?         00 

S 

S.5 

WORK   FOR   SECONDARY   SCHOOLS 


221 


s 

I 

i 

i 

*c 

1 

1 

t/5 

M 

1 

p 

& 

C 

.£ 

1 

c-f 

'"c 

bo 

i 

w 

bb 

c 

43 
"8 
U 

«*H 

O 

s 

oj 
U 

i 

be 

•H 

1 
en 

be 

c 

rt 

be 

_c 

0 

P^ 

be 

c 

c 

(fl 

be 

c 

1 

o 

cL 

bb 

c 

'5 
d. 

i  A  g  ^|^ 
jg  «  g  .|  §  ^ 

P^  4J     °  ^  ^      . 

a'f  .s  g-^l^ 

Illll    6! 

^   P        J2        S3   co 
T3^-|-a^ 

^  J3^§^^   2 

I^'Jl^l 

=5        S  3   o  ^   £ 

lsi|l|^ 

E       C       Gn^S       «J       bC^ 

Audubon  Societv.  Suita- 

t/r 

i 

CA 

d 

.'Sf 
"En 

u 

•X3 

f 

X 

15 

their  prices  and  wearing  qual- 
ities. Hair-dressing.  Good 
taste. 

Use  of  patterns.  Necessi- 
ties of  a  child's  wardrobe. 

Construction  of  garments. 

Expense  of  children's  cloth- 
ing. Hygiene,  suitability. 
Practical  charities.  Social 

consciousness  developed. 

OJ 

.S 

jj| 

bb 

c 

p 

•^ 

— 

13 

o3 

2 

•f. 

. 

**" 

"1 

bb 

o 

B 

-5 

•B 

;^- 

•7™ 

> 

bb 

3 

t^ 

rt 

r3 

c 

U 

^ 

5 

'a 

h 

1 

<S  >, 

o 

0 

? 

3    rt 

S" 

^^ 

C 

^j 

»    S 

0 

^" 

•^ 

2 

T3    ^ 

U 

Q 

—  1 

'    ' 

s~\ 

-5  ^ 

-  —  / 

p; 

s 

1 

;•! 

6° 

g 

1 

X 

.5 

3 

rt 

222  DOMESTIC   ART 

Domestic-art  work  in  the  technical  high  school 

courses  should  differ  from  the  manual  training  in 

'that  it  should  offer  not  so  great  a  variety 

Technical 

high  school        of   hand-work    for    each    student,    but 

work.  . 

allow  opportunity  for  intensive  work 
along  some  particular  line  of  interest,  such  as  dress- 
making, millinery,  costume  designing,  etc.,  at  the 
same  time  allowing  opportunity  for  some  academic 
work  to  be  pursued.  The  plans  for  real  technical 
work  in  high  schools  seem  to  differ  with  leading 
authorities.  The  Washington  Irving  High  School 
in  New  York  offers  some  of  the  best  technical  high 
school  work  for  girls  given  in  this  country.  As  yet 
the  technical  lines  of  specialization  are  not  many  in 
number,  but  those  offered  lead  the  students  into 
many  fields  of  work.  Commercial  courses  and  libra- 
ry assistance,  specialization  in  various  fields  of  art 
such  as  designing  and  sketching  for  wall  papers, 
textiles,  stained  glass,  and  cataloguing,  dressmaking 
and  millinery,  present  a  number  of  opportunities  for 
selection. 

There  are  many  fields  for  specialization  in  the 
household  arts  work  which  have  not  as  yet  been 
appreciated  by  controlling  boards  and  which  in  the 
future  will  give  women  an  opportunity  for  means  of 


WORK   FOR   SECONDARY   SCHOOLS  223 

livelihood.  The  technical  courses  offered  in  high 
school  may  lead  later  to  higher  technical  schools  for 
women.  At  present  few  are  established.  '  The  House- 
hold Arts  School  of  Columbia  University,  Pratt  In- 
stitute in  Brooklyn,  and  Simmons  College  in  Boston 
offer  such  opportunity  for  further  study. 

The  technical  high  school  course  of  study  is  gen- 
erally three  or  four  years  in  length,  and  about  two- 
thirds  of  the  periods  are  devoted  to  the  special  tech- 
nical line  of  interest.  The  academic  studies  will  be 
of  most  value  in  such  a  school  when  they  are  dis- 
tinctly related  to  and  correlated  with'  the  lines  of 
thought  of  these  special  fields.  The  work  of  the 
first  year  will  naturally  be  the  least  specialized,  for  as 
a  rule  the  student  must  get  her  bearing  and  discover 
her  peculiar  interest.  Opportunity  should  be  given, 
however,  in  elective  periods  for  those  who  have  early 
discovered  their  dominant  line  of  interest.  So-called 
technical  high  school  courses  are  often  offered  at 
night,  but  sometimes  fail  to  make  the  work  as  in- 
tensive as  that  given  in  day  courses,  and  offer  no 
academic  studies  in  connection.  Such  courses  would 
better  be  called  continuation  courses,  or  home- 
maker's  courses,  rather  than  technical  high  school 
work. 


224  DOMESTIC   ART 

The  following  outline  of  one  specialty — dress- 
making— for  the  technical  high  school  will  give 
some  idea  of  the  kind  and  degree  of  intensity  of 
work  which  should  be  offered  in  a  technical  course. 
Similar  courses  along  the  lines  of  costume-designing, 
commercial  branches,  designing  for  other  special 
fields,  millinery,  etc.,  should  be  offered.  The  aca- 
demic work  should  be  closely  related  and  correlated 
with  the  special  line  of  interest.  The  following 
course  is  planned  for  three  years.  It  might  extend 
over  four,  or  additional  work  be  added,  if  the  high 
school  course  is  of  four  years'  duration. 

COURSE    OF    STUDY    IN    DRESSMAKING    FOR    A 
TECHNICAL  HIGH  SCHOOL 

STUDENT  PLAN,  TEACHERS  COLLEGE 

I.     CONDITIONS. 

(1)  Population. — 200,000. 

(2)  Nationalities. — (a)  American,  very  largely. 

(b)  Foreign.  Outside  the  original  American  stock  the  Ger- 
man and  Irish  elements  predominate.  Of  the  35,000  wage- 
earners  employed  in  manufacturing,  over  30,000  are  of  Ameri- 
can birth. 

(3)  Industries. — (a)  Importance.     Occupies  sixth  place  in 
manufacturing   in   proportion   to   population   in   the   United 
States.     The   geographical    centre   of   the   workshop   of   the 
United  States. 

(b)  Articles  manufactured  and  produced.     Shoes,  clothing, 


WORK  FOR   SECONDARY   SCHOOLS  225 

photographic  supplies,  canned  goods,  buttons,  optical  goods, 
flour,  fruit  products,  seeds,  chairs,  nursery  stock,  office  and 
telephone  supplies,  carriages,  lithographing,  machinery,  etc. 

(4)  Labor. — A  high  percentage  of  the  labor  is  skilled  and 
commands  a  higher  price  than  in  most  cities  and  demands  a 
higher  order  of  intelligence  because  of  the  skill  required  and 
the  diversity  of  articles  manufactured.     Owing  to  this   pre- 
ponderance of  skilled  workmen  the  standard  of  intelligence 
throughout  the  city  is  high,  and  there  is  a  small  percentage 
of  illiteracy  and  of  foreign-born  residents  as  compared  to 
other  cities. 

(5)  Civic. — (a)  Spirit.    The  citizens  possess  to  a  high  degree 
a  spirit  of  local  pride  and  civic  loyalty,  which  is  manifest  in 
city  improvements,  parks,  public  buildings,  etc.,  and  also  in 
the  schools. 

(b)  Residential  section.     It  is  so  situated  that  it  has  become 
one  of  the  handsomest  residence  cities  of  America.     There  is 
no  special  district  devoted  to  manufacturing  enterprises.     The 
factories  are   as  scattered  as  their  products  are   diversified. 
Naturally,  this  scattering  of  families  has  tended  to  scatter  the 
workingmen  of  the  city  and  prevented  congestion  of  the  houses 
in  any  single  section  of  the  city.     There  are  no  slums  as  com- 
pared to  other  cities  and  few  large  crowded  tenement  houses. 

(c)  Environment.     It  has  many  parks,  and  its  suburban 
sites  and  natural  environment  tend  to  make  the  life  of  the 
workingman  pleasant  and  healthful  and  have  tended  to  ele- 
vate the  character  of  the  workingman  as  a  class. 

(6)  Educational. — (a)  Public  institutions.     There  are  thirty- 
eight  public  schools  and  two  high  schools;  also  a  number  of 
evening  schools  in  the  various  parts  of  the  city  where  they  are 
most  needed.     Factory  schools  have  recently  been  started,  but 
so  far  instruction  is  only  for  boys. 

(b)  Private  institutions.     Eighteen  parochial  schools,  a  uni- 


226  DOMESTIC  ART 

versity,  and  theological  seminary,  (a)  A  Mechanics '  Institute 
which  trains  boys  and  girls,  and  men  and  women,  for  useful 
trades. 

(c)  Scope.  These  institutions  give  ample  opportunity  for 
securing  a  common  school  and  classical  education. 

(7)  Industrial  Training. — The  existing  high  schools  give  an 
indispensable  preparation  for  high  professional  study  and  still 
more  immediate  preparation  for  business  pursuits,  but  they 
do  next  to  nothing  to  fit  their  pupils  for  the  fundamental  in- 
dustries. About  thirty  per  cent  of  the  number  in  the  grades 
go  to  the  high  school.  There  is,  therefore,  need  of  practical 
instruction  in  the  high  schools  so  that,  when  the  pupils  leave 
the  school,  they  will  not  have  to  resort  to  other  means  to  get 
what  they  must  know  in  order  to  go  out  into  the  business  world 
successfully.  There  is  need  of  high  school  technical  training 
in  this  city. 

II.     AIMS. 

(1)  General. — (a)  To  give  a  practical  training  in  the  high 
school,  which  will  produce  practical  results  for  girls,  who  in 
the  majority  of  cases  are  soon  to  be  put  to  the  necessity  of 
applying  their  learning  to  the  practical  affairs  of  life. 

(b)  To  train   the  girls  in  the  fundamentals  and  provide 
special  trade  instruction  commensurate  with  the  demands  of  a 
manufacturing  city. 

(c)  To  encourage  girls  to  become  self-supporting  and  to 
lead  useful,  happy,  dignified,  and  progressive  lives. 

(2)  Specific. — (a)  Formation  of  right  habits,     (i)  To  en- 
courage habits  of  honesty,  neatness,  attention,  accuracy,  love 
of  work,   speed,  promptness,  economy  of  time  and  material. 
(2)  To  develop  reasoning,  originality,  invention,  imagination, 
and  ability  to  express  an  idea  in  concrete  form.     (3)  To  incul- 
cate politeness,  kindliness,  and  pleasing  manners. 


WORK  FOR   SECONDARY   SCHOOLS  227 

(b)  Home   management,     (i)  To   encourage   neatness  and 
orderliness  in  the  home  and  promote  a  love  for  it.     (2)  To 
teach  economy  in  buying  and  the  use  of  materials  and  a  judi- 
cious use  of  time.     (3)  To  cultivate  judgment  and  skill  in  the 
use  of  tools  and  selection  of  materials.     (4)  To  develop  good 
taste  and  promote  a  desire  for  beautiful,  harmonious,  simple, 
and  restful  surroundings.     (5)  To  lead  to  consideration  of 
physical  conditions. 

(c)  A  preparation  for  trade,     (i)  Care  and  use  of  utensils, 
and  skill  in  handling  same.     (2)  Economy  of  time  and  mate- 
rial.    (3)  Ability  to  make  and  interpret  working  drawings  and 
patterns.     (4)  Some  knowledge  of  trade  and  every-day  busi- 
ness   transactions.     (5)  Some    practical    information    of    the 
names,  use,  fitness,  etc.,  of  the  tools  to  be  used  in  their  trades, 
and  the  materials  handled. 


DRESSMAKERS'  COURSE— FIRST  YEAR 

(Required  Course) 

Time. — Five  periods  per  week  for  one  half  year.  Periods, 
fifty  minutes  each. 

NOTE. — This  course  is  preceded  by  an  elementary  school  course  of 
four  years,  in  which  the  leading  fundamental  principles  and  stitches  used 
in  hand-sewing  are  given.  There  has  been  some  garment-making  by 
hand,  a  little  free  pattern-cutting,  and  the  use  of  patterns,  but  no  drafting. 
So  far  in  the  course  machine-work  has  not  been  introduced. 

I.  PROBLEMS. 

(i)  Machine,     (a)  Work-bag. 

(b)  Apron. 

(c)  Underskirt.     White  muslin. 

(d)  Night-gown. 

(e)  Shirtwaist.     Plain. 


228  DOMESTIC  ART 

(/)  Between  work,     (i)  Short  skirt.     (2)  Corset-cover. 

(g)  Shirtwaist.  Tucked.  This  problem  is  designed  for  the 
girl  who  finishes  the  first  five  problems  before  the  time  of  the 
term  expires. 

II.    PRINCIPLES  AND  PROCESSES  INVOLVED. 

(1)  Care   and   use   of   machines,     (a)  Kinds,     (i)  Single- 
thread.     (2)  Double-thread. 

(&)  Threading,  treadling,  oiling,  parts,  etc. 

(2)  Drafting. 

(3)  Cutting. 

(4)  Fitting. 

(5)  Stitching. 

(6)  Designing. 

(7)  Decoration,     (a)  Tucking. 

(b)  Ruffling,     (i)  Calculating  fulness.     (2)  Joining,  etc. 

(c)  Hemstitching. 

(d)  Lace     and     embroidery,     (i)  Mitering.     (2)  Curving. 
(3)  Joining. 

<8)  Seams,     (a)  French. 

(b)  Flat  fell. 

(c)  Tailor. 

(9)  Hems. 

(10)  Facings,     (a)  Straight. 
(b)  Bias. 

(n)  Fastenings,     (a)  Buttons  and  button-holes. 

(b)  Tapes. 

(c)  Ribbons. 

(12)  Sleeve-making,     (a)  Finishing,     (i)  Tailor  cuff.     (2) 
Placket.     (3)  Putting  in,  gathering,  etc. 

(13)  Practice  in  using  commercial  patterns.          XV 

(14)  Adaptation  of  patterns  to  figure. 

(15)  Study  of  form  and  line  as  applied  to  individual  figures. 


WORK   FOR   SECONDARY   SCHOOLS  229 

III.  RELATED  SUBJECT-MATTER. 

(i)  Design,  (a)  Trimming  of  garments  with  lace  and  hand- 
embroidery.  - 

(6)  Space  relation,  (i)  Study  of  line.  (2)  Breaking  up 
spaces  to  give  long  effects,  short  effects,  etc. 

(r)  Proportion. 

IV.  THOUGHT  CONTENT. 

(1)  Use  of  machines,     (a)  Economy  of  time. 

(b)  Strength  of  sewing. 

(c)  Value  in  trade. 

(d)  Beauty  in  fine  stitching. 

(e)  Comparison  of  machine-  and  hand-sewing. 

(2)  Materials,     (a)  Suitability,     (i)  Fitness     as     to     use. 
(2)  Wearing  qualities.     (3)  Laundering  qualities. 

(b)  Cost. 

(c)  Good  taste,     (i)  In  selection.     (2)  In  decoration. 

(d)  Economy  in  use  of  materials. 

(e)  Combination  of  materials. 

(3)  Garment-making,     (a)  Choice  of  materials. 

(b)  Undergarments  to  correspond  to  outer  garments. 

(c)  Estimate  cost  of  complete  garment  and  time  required  to 
make  each. 

V.  OUTSIDE  INTERESTS,  TALKS,  EXCURSIONS,  ETC. 

NOTE. — One  period  of  fifty  minutes  each  to  be  set  aside  each  week 
for  talks,  excursions,  visits,  etc.  This  time  may  be  used  for  demon- 
stration of  some  thought  to  be  brought  out  in  connection  with  garment - 
making.  Otherwise  the  time  is  to  be  spent  in  discussion  of  following 
topics.  These  may  be  subdivided  and  extended  over  more  than  one 
period  at  discretion  of  teacher.  Each  teacher  to  decide  as  to  topics  most 
needed  by  her  individual  class. 

(i)  The  keeping  of  accounts,     (a)  Advisability,  use,  etc. 
(b)  Each  girl  to  be  required  to  keep  an  account  of  her  ex- 
penditures for  one  month. 


230  DOMESTIC  ART 

(c)  Lead  girl  to  see  where  in  her  individual  case  the  money 
could  have  been  more  wisely  spent. 

(d)  Economy  of  time  as  opposed  to  money. 

(2)  Problems  dealing  with  the  purchase  of  materials,     (a) 
Relations  of  consumer  and  dealer. 

(b)  Relative  values,  bargains,  etc. 

(c)  Comparison  of  samples  brought  in  by  girls;    use  of 
price  lists;   learn  names  and  widths  of  materials. 

(d)  Some  means  of  judging  materials. 

(e)  Use  of  lists  in  shopping. 

(/)  Shopping  etiquette;  how  to  ask  for  what  you  wish. 

(3)  General  appearance,     (a)  Good  taste,     (i)  Color  com- 
binations.    (2)  Textile  combinations.     (3)  Suitability  of  gar- 
ment to  occasion. 

(b)  Good  and  bad  hair  dressing,     (i)  Hair  ribbons,  orna- 
ments, combs,  etc. 

(c)  Ornamentation,     (i)  Use  of  cheap  jewelry.     (2)  Cheap 
laces,  embroideries,  etc. 

(d)  Shoes,     (i)  Well   cleaned.     (2)  Heels  in   good   condi- 
tion. 

(e)  Gloves,     (i)  Clean,  well-mended. 

(4)  Hygiene,     (a)  Care  of  the  body. 

(b)  Hands,     (i)  Nails — clean,   well-shaped.     (2)  Necessity 
for  business  woman  to  have  good-looking  hands.     (3)  Care — 
soaps,  brushing,  etc. 

(c)  Selection  of  garments  that  will  launder  easily. 

(d)  Frequent  changes  of  underwear,     (i)  Necessity  in  shop- 
work;  use  in  this  connection  of  knit,  one-piece  underwear. 

(5)  Excursions,  etc.     (a)  Visits   to   neighboring    stores   in 
relation  to  shopping,  etc. 

(b)  Exhibit  of  undergarments  in  connection  with  making  of 
undergarments. 


WORK  FOR  SECONDARY   SCHOOLS  231 


DRESSMAKERS'  COURSE— SECOND  YEAR 

(Required  Course) 

Time. — Fifteen  periods  per  week  throughout  year.     Periods, 
fifty  minutes  each. 

I.  PROBLEMS. 

(i)  Construction,     (a)  Shirtwaist  (cotton  or  linen,  tucked). 

(b)  Kimono. 

(c)  Unlined  cotton  dress. 

(d)  Shirtwaist  (fancy  tucked,  lace-trimmed). 

(e)  Silk  petticoat. 

(/)  Plain  tailored  skirt. 

fe)  Gymnasium  suit. 

(h)  Tight-fitting  lined  waist. 

(1)  Simple  wool  dress. 

(2)  Drafting,     (a)  Shirtwaists. 
(6)  Close-fitting  waists. 

(c)  Sleeves. 

(d)  Collars  and  cuffs. 

(e)  Skirts,     (i)  Gored  (seven,  nine,  eleven).     (2)  Circular 
(plain  and  gored).     (3)  Plaited. 

(3)  Adaptation  of  bought  patterns  to  fit  individual  needs. 

II.  PRINCIPLES  AND  PROCESSES  INVOLVED. 

(1)  Drafting. 

(2)  Cutting. 

(3)  Tracing. 

(4)  Marking. 

(5)  Basting,     (a)  Running. 
(b)  Tailor. 


232  DOMESTIC   ART 

(6)  Seams,     (a)  Kinds,     (i)  Welt.     (2)  Flat  stitched.     (3) 
Strapped.     (4)  Lapped.     (5)  Slot. 

(b}  Finishing,     (i)  Overcast.    (2)  Bound.    (3)  Turned  in. 

(7)  Boning. 

(8)  Pressing. 

(9)  Pockets. 

(10)  Making  of  button-holes, 
(n)  Sewing  on  hooks  and  eyes. 

(12)  Hanging  skirts. 

(13)  Finishing  skirts. 

(14)  Decorating,     (a)  Machine.       (i)  Hemstitching.       (2) 
Tucking.     (3)  Stitching.     (4)  Ruffling. 

(b)  Hand,     (i)  French   embroidery.      (2)  Coarse   stitches. 

(c)  Trimmings    for    gowns,     (i)  Smocking.     (2)  Cording. 
(3)  Plaiting.      (4)  Braiding.     (5)  Application    of    previously 
learned  stitches  to  collars,  belts,  cuffs,  shirtwaists,  etc. 

(15)  Study  of  line  and  form  to  fit  individual  figures.     Adjust- 
ing garments  to  variety  of  figures.     Much  practice  in  taking 
measures. 

III.  RELATED  SUBJECT-MATTER. 

(1)  Design,     (a)  Space  relation. 

(b)  Proportion. 

(c)  Relative  values. 

(d)  Color  harmonies. 

(e)  Sketching,     (i)  Waists,  gowns,  and  shirtwaists.  . 

(2)  Commercial  and  industrial  geography. 

(3)  Commercial  and  industrial  history. 

IV.  THOUGHT  CONTENT. 
(i)  Materials,     (a)  Cost. 

(b)  Economy  in  use  and  cutting. 

(c)  Good  taste  in  selection. 


WORK   FOR   SECONDARY  SCHOOLS  233 

(d)  Wearing  qualities. 

(e)  Suitability  to  garment. 

(2)  Garments,     (a)  Appropriateness. 

(b}  Economy  in  planning  a  wardrobe. 

(c)  Combination  of  textiles. 

(d)  Combination  of  colors. 

(e)  Independence  of  draft  and  workmanship. 
(/)  Utilities  and  varieties  of  shirtwaists. 

V.    TEXTILE  STUDY. 

NOTE. — Twenty  lessons  during  the  year  to  be  given  on  textiles.  If 
possible,  class  to  visit  a  silk  or  cotton  or  woollen  mill  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
school. 

Aim. — To  give  a  practical  understanding  of  the  various 
textile  fibres  and  the  processes  of  their  manufacture,  that  shall 
lead  to  judgment  and  taste  in  selection  as  suited  in  wearing 
quality,  adaptability  to  use,  permanence  of  color,  and  har- 
mony of  design  to  the  particular  use  for  which  they  are  intended. 

(1)  Development  and  preparation  of  fibres,     (a)  Spinning. 

(1)  Early    history.     (2)  Processes.     (3)  Comparison    of    old 
and  new  methods. 

(b)  Weaving.      (i)  Movements.      (2)  Early      forms.      (3) 
Looms. 

(c)  Weaves  and  kinds  of  cloths  in  which  used,     (i)  Twill. 

(2)  Plain.     (3)  Rib.     (4)  Basket.     (5)  Satin. 

(2)  Cotton,     (a)  Distribution  and  production,  influence  on 
cost,  quality,  etc. 

(b)  Steps  of  manufacture  through  milling. 

(c)  Products  of  milling. 

(d)  Seed  products. 

(e)  Properties,     (i)  Wearing  qualities.     (2)  Adaptations  to 
use.     (3)  As  substitute  in  other  textiles. 

(/)  Prices. 


234  DOMESTIC  ART 

(3)  Flax,     (a)  Production. 
(6)  Processes. 

(c)  Properties. 

(d)  Adaptations  to  use. 

(e)  Materials  made  from  flax. 
(/)  Wearing  qualities. 

(g)  Price  as  compared  with  cotton. 

(4)  Silk,     (a)  Countries  producing. 

(b)  Milling  operations. 

(c)  Characteristics. 

(d)  Wearing  qualities. 

(e)  'Artificial  silks. 

(/)  Mercerized  materials. 

(g)  Price  as  compared  with  other  textiles. 

(5)  Wool,     (a)  About  the  same  as  for  other  textiles. 

(b)  Cleansing  properties,  shrinkage,  etc. 

(c)  Utility  for  warmth. 

(d)  Adulterations. 

(6)  Dyeing,     (a)  Effect  upon  fibres. 

(b)  Fast  and  fugitive  colors. 

(c)  Chemicals  used,  mordants,  etc. 


DRESSMAKERS'  COURSE— THIRD  YEAR 

(Required  Course) 

Time. — Fifteen  periods  per  week  throughout  year.     Periods, 
fifty  minutes  each. 

I.  PROBLEMS. 

(i)  Pattern  modelling  and  draping,    (a)  Tight-fitting  lining. 

(b)  One-piece  dress. 

(c)  Sleeves,  collars,  guimpes,  and  yokes. 


WORK  FOR   SECONDARY  SCHOOLS  235 

(2)  Construction,  (a)  Hand-sewing,  (i)  Baby's  under- 
skirt; some  hand-embroidery.  (2)  Baby's  dress. 

(b)  Machine,  (i)  Silk  or  wool  shirtwaist.  (2)  Princess  tight- 
fitting  boned  lining  (of  silk  or  material  suitable  for  lining  wool 
gown).  (3)  One-piece  wool  dress  (to  be  used  over  princess 
lining).  (4)  Guimpe  of  silk,  lace,  and  net,  decorated  with  fancy 
stitches.  (5)  Simple  silk  or  wool  dress  to  be  used  with  guimpe. 
(6)  Linen  suit  (gored  skirt  and  coat).  (7)  Inexpensive  cotton 
or  wash  dress.  (8)  Remodelling  of  an 'old  gown.  (9)  Fresh- 
ening of  old  waists,  gowns,  suits.  (10)  Graduation  gown, 
(ii)  Between  work  (hand-made  lingerie  waist  using  tucks, 
lace,  and  hand-embroidery).  (12)  Order  work,  (a)  Lingerie 
(b)  Baby's  garments  and  pillows  (c)  Shirtwaists  and  cotton 
dresses. 

II.    PRINCIPLES  AND  PROCESSES  INVOLVED. 

(1)  Largely  review  of  principles  and  processes  learned  in 
first  two  years  of  course. 

(2)  Skirts,     (a)  Lining,     (i)  Drop.     (2)  In  one  piece  with 
waist  lining. 

(b)  Finishing,     (i)  Braid  or  velveteen. 

(c)  Fastenings,     (i)  Hooks     and     eyes.     (2)  Snaps.       (3) 
Buttons  and  button-holes. 

(3)  Coats,     (a)  Binding  inside  seams. 
(b)  Pressing. 

(c}  Pockets. 

(4)  Shop  methods,     (a)  Tests  in  workmanship,     (i)  Stand- 
ard set  by  factory  and  trade. 

(b}  Tests  in  speed. 
(c}  Piecework. 

(d)  Order- work. 

(5)  Practice  in  modelling  gowns  on  figure. 

(6)  Adjusting  garments  to  individuals. 


236  DOMESTIC   ART 

(7)  Drafting  waists  to  different  measures.     Taking  measures 
of  members  of  class  until  familiar  with  draft  and  its  applica- 
tion to  other  garments. 

(8)  Study  of  design,  color,  proportion,  etc.,  as  related  to 
garment-making. 

III.  RELATED  SUBJECT-MATTER. 

(1)  Design,     (a)  Costume. 

(b)  Decorative. 

(c)  Color  harmony. 

(2)  Commercial  and  industrial  history. 

(3)  History  of  costume. 

(4)  Commercial  arithmetic. 

(5)  Drawing  and  sketching. 

IV.  THOUGHT  CONTENT. 

(1)  Materials.  ^  (a)  Varieties;  suitability  for  use  in  garments. 
(b}  Texture  and  wearing  qualities. 

(f)  Color  combinations. 

(d)  Suitability  of  material  to  individual. 

(e)  Cost,  widths,  etc. 

(/)  Care  of  garments,  (i)  Cleansing  and  taking  out  spots. 
(2)  Taking  off  shine  and  worn  appearance.  (3)  Mending  and 
pressing. 

(2)  Preparation  for  trade,     (a)  Keeping  of  accounts. 

(b)  Estimating    cost   of   garments,     (i)  Ability    to    do    so 
quickly. 

(c)  Estimating  amount  of  time  required  to  make  certain 
garments. 

(d)  Keeping  time  accounts. 

(e)  Business-like  manners  and  ways  of  working. 
(/)  Independence  of  workmanship. 


WORK  FOR  SECONDARY  SCHOOLS  237 

DRESSMAKERS'  COURSE— THIRD  YEAR 

(Required  Course) 
HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT  AND  HOME  FURNISHING 

Time. — One  period  per  week  throughout  year.  Periods, 
fifty  minutes  each. 

Aim. — To  improve  the  home  conditions  as  far  as  possible 
by  discussions  and  practical  demonstrations  of  the  following 
topics. 

I.     PROBLEMS. 

(1)  Economic  aspect  of  study  of  the  home,     (a)  Labor. 

(1)  Organized.     (2)  Systematic.     (3)  Regular  times  for  doing 
certain  tasks.     (4)  Economy  of  time  and  energy  by  careful 
planning.     (5)  Sharing    of    responsibilities.     (6)  Division    of 
labor. 

(b)  Home    industries,     (i)  Ethical    value.     (2)  Economic 
value. 

(c)  Income,     (i)  Division  according  to  value  and  necessity. 

(2)  Keeping  of  accounts.     (3)  Importance  of  wise  spending. 
(4)  Relation  of  spender  to  community,  to  family,  to  quality  of 
commodity    purchased,    to    condition    of   business.     (5)  Ele- 
ments which  regulate  apportionment  of  income.     (6)  Use  of 
business  methods  in  the  home.     (7)  Some  ideas  of  banking, 
checking,  drafts,  etc. 

(2)  Furnishing  of  the  home,     (a)  Fundamental  principles  of 
good  furnishing,     (i)  Effect  of  furnishings  upon  health,  com- 
fort, and  development  of  family.     (2)  Artistic  furnishings  as 
well  as  hygienic.     (3)  Choice  of  materials  as  to  color,  suita- 
bility, design,  wearing  qualities. 


238  DOMESTIC  ART 

(&)  Care  of  rooms,  (i)  Weekly  sweeping  and  dusting — best 
methods.  (2)  Lighting.  (3)  Heat  and  ventilation.  (4) 
Sleeping-rooms.  Bed  furnishings  and  removal  of  soiled 
clothes,  etc.  (5)  Use  of  disinfectants  and  deodorants. 

II.  PROCESSES. 

(1)  Largely  class  discussions. 

(2)  Free  use  of  charts. 

(3)  Let  class  plan  ways  of  dividing  income. 

(4)  Practice  in  keeping  accounts. 

(5)  Some  practice  in  making  out  checks,  drafts,  etc.,  with 
relation  to  banking,  trade,  etc. 

(6)  Visit  if  possible  a  good  model  apartment. 

(7)  Plan  good  division  of  daily  household  tasks. 


DRESSMAKERS'  COURSE— SECOND  OR  THIRD 
YEAR 

(Elective  Course) 

Time. — Five  periods  per  week  throughout  year.  Periods, 
fifty  minutes  each. 

Prerequisite. — -Dressmakers'  course  first  year. 

Aim. — To  enable  girls  to  earn  money  at  home  making  under- 
garments for  private  trade.  This  course  is  for  a  girl  who  will 
be  needed  at  home  part  or  all  of  the  day,  and  yet  have  sufficient 
time  to  enable  her  to  help  in  the  support  of  herself  or  family. 
In  most  large  cities  there  is  ample  opportunity  for  the  employ- 
ment of  such  girls,  and  need  for  their  training. 

I.    PROBLEMS. 

(i)  Combination  of  hand-  and  machine- work,  (a)  Corset 
cover,  (i)  Plain.  (2)  Lace-trimmed. 


WORK   FOR   SECONDARY   SCHOOLS  239 

(b)  Chemise,     (i)  Hand-embroidered. 

(c)  Underdrawers.     (i)  Ruffle  trimmed  with  machine-tucks 
or  hemstitching.     (2)  Ruffle  of  lace  or  embroidery. 

(d)  Combination  drawers  and  corset- cover,     (i)   Tight-fit- 
ting and  very  plain. 

(e)  Night-gowns,     (i)  Plain.     (2)  Lace-trimmed  or  hand- 
embroidered. 

(/)  Underskirts,  (i)  Plain  (ruffle  of  same  material  trimmed 
with  machine  tucking).  (2)  Fancy  (ruffle  of  embroidery  with 
heading  of  beading,  or  lace-trimmed). 

(g)  Kimonos  and  dressing- jackets,  (i)  Daintily  trimmed 
with- lace,  etc.  (2)  This  problem  is  for  those  finishing  the  first 
six  problems  before  the  time  of  the  term  expires. 

II.  PRINCIPLES  AND  PROCESSES  INVOLVED. 

(1)  Review  of  principles  and  processes  as  planned  for  first 
year  course. 

(2)  Extra  stress  laid  on  the  finishing  and  decoration  of 
garments. 

III.  RELATED  SUBJECT-MATTER. 
(i)  Same  as  for  first-year  course. 

IV.  THOUGHT  CONTENT. 

(1)  Materials. 

(a)  Cost. 

(b)  Suitability  as  to  use. 

(c)  Laundering  and  wearing  qualities. 

(d)  Trimmings  adapted  to  various  qualities  of  materials. 

(e)  Fitness  of  decoration  (hand)  to  material  and  garment. 

(2)  Garment-making. 

(a)  Various  shapes  and  kinds. 

(b)  Suitability  as  to  age  and  size. 

(c)  Economical  use  of  cloth. 


240  DOMESTIC  ART 

(d)  Estimation  of  cost. 
(3)  Suggestive  exercises. 

(a)  Training  in  quickly  estimating  cost  of  a  finished  garment 
with  relation  to  trade. 

(b)  How  to  take  orders  for  garments. 

(c)  Keeping  of  time  accounts. 

(d)  Estimate  cost  of  making  garment  as  to  time  required. 

(e)  Quick  drill  in  designing  and  suggesting  ways  of  making 
undergarments. 

The  trade  schools  for  women  in  this  country  are 

few  and  have  a  distinct  aim.     They  have  been  until 

recently  under  private  management  and 

Domestic  art 

in  trade  largely   experimental.     The   aim   is   to 

schools.  . 

train  the  young  wage-earner  for  a  short 
period  in  order  that  a  certain  amount  of  skill  may  be 
developed  before  she  enters  a  trade,  and  that  she 
may  have  an  appreciation  of  the  relationship  of  this 
trade  to  other  work  of  the  world.  This  cuts  short 
the  long  apprenticeship  period  through  which  many 
of  the  girls  must  pass  if  they  enter  the  shop  or  factory 
as  soon  as  their  working  papers  are  obtained.  The 
girls  in  such  a  school  are  naturally  young,  poor,  and 
often  in  bad  health.  They  cannot  stay  long  in  such 
a  school  and  the  course  is  often  accomplished  at 
great  sacrifice.  Such  a  school  should  aim  to  give 
the  girl  a  knowledge  of  the  fundamental  laws  of 


WORK   FOR  SECONDARY  SCHOOLS  241 

health,  all  the  technical  skill  and  speed  along  the 
line  of  some  specialty  which  time  will  permit,  and  as 
much  of  an  outlook  on  the  business  and  related 
interests  of  that  specialty  as  possible.  The  Man- 
hattan Trade  School  for  Girls  in  New  York  aims  to 
accomplish  this  purpose.  At  present  there  are  but 
four  specialties  offered — hand-sewing  and  dress- 
making, millinery,  machine-operating,  and  pasting. 
The  course  of  study  in  such  a  school  is  necessarily 
short,  but  leads  directly  to  work.  This  school  is 
open  to  girls  who  have  left  the  elementary  school 
because  they  are  either  graduated  or  have  passed  the 
compulsory  school  age.  The  physical  training  is  a 
distinct  part  of  the  work  of  each  day,  as  well  as  the 
academic  features  of  study  which  give  the  girls  an 
opportunity  to  learn  to  write  a  business  letter,  to 
reply  to  an  advertisement,  or  to  gain  some  knowledge 
of  the  origin  and  manufacture  of  the  various  textiles 
handled.  The  art  work  is  also  closely  related  and 
has  a  strong  cultural  value  as  well. 

The  Hebrew  Technical  School  for  Girls  of  New 
York  is  a  higher  type  of  trade  school  and  may  be 
placed  in  a  distinct  class  between  such  work  as  that 
offered  in  the  Manhattan  Trade  School  and  that  of 
the  technical  high  schools.  This  course  differs  from 


242  DOMESTIC   ART 

the  above  in  that  it  takes  mainly  graduates  from 
the  elementary  school,  while  the  Manhattan  Trade 
School  admits  girls  who  have  obtained  their  working 
papers  whether  they  have  completed  all  or  only  part 
of  the  elementary  school  work.  The  consequence 
is  that  one  finds  a  higher  type  of  scholarship  in  the 
latter  school.  The  course  is  only  eighteen  months 
in  length,  but  is  continuous.  The  girls  are  given 
much  more  instruction  in  academic  work  than  in 
the  Manhattan  Trade  School  and  there  is  also  train- 
ing in  housekeeping.  About  two-thirds  of  the  time 
is  devoted  to  technical  work  including  design. 
Opportunity  is  given  for  election  of  the  commercial 
course,  or  work  in  manual  training,  which  means 
specialization  in  sewing  and  dressmaking.  Oppor- 
tunity is  also  given  for  some  trade  experience,  as  or- 
ders for  garments  are  executed  by  this  department. 
The  graduates  from  this  school  enter  business  as 
stenographers,  and  bookkeepers,  or  as  dressmakers' 
assistants.  Some  remain  at  home  and  a  few  go  on 
to  higher  schools. 

The  Boston  Trade  School  for  Girls  is  similar  in 
organization  to  the  Manhattan  Trade  School  and 
offers  an  opportunity  for  the  study  of  this  phase  of 
domestic-art  work. 


WORK  FOR   SECONDARY   SCHOOLS  243 

The  catalogues  of  these  schools  will  illustrate  the 
amount  of  time  devoted  to  the  special  lines  of  interest 
as  well  as  to  academic  work. 

The  evening  and  day  classes  of  the  Young  Women's 
Christian  Association,  and  the  industrial  classes  of 
church  schools  and  settlements,  as  well  as  the 
public  evening  high  schools,  all  offer  a  certain 
type  of  domestic-art  work.  Much  of  this  may  be 
classed  as  of  secondary  nature  in  that  it  offers 
opportunity  for  students  to  continue  courses  of  study 
along  these  lines  while  engaged  in  business  pursuits. 
These  courses  of  study  are  most  like  the  continua- 
tion classes  of  the  foreign  schools,  but  as  a  rule  do 
not  offer  as  good  trade  instruction  as  those  abroad, 
where  the  courses  offered  at  night  aim  to  supplement 
the  trade  in  which  the  workers  are  engaged.  These 
schools  and  settlements  also  offer  courses  in  domes- 
tic art  which  are  not  as  highly  specialized  and  may 
be  better  termed  home-making  courses,  in  that  the 
aim  is  to  offer  such  work  as  will  make  the  girl  more 
efficient  in  her  home.  They  are  as  a  rule  short  in 
length  and  offer  instruction  in  dressmaking,  milli- 
nery, embroidery,  and  garment-making. 

One  difficulty  which  should  be  guarded  against 
by  those  in  authority  in  these  schools  is  the  misin- 


244  DOMESTIC  ART 

terp relation  of  aims  of  courses  by  those  entering. 
The  writer  has  known  of  young  girls  placed  in  the 
home-making  courses  who  really  desired  more  tech- 
nical instruction  and  who  were  disappointed  because 
at  the  completion  of  the  course  it  was  impossible  to 
find  work  as  a  milliner's  or  dressmaker's  assistant. 
The  aims  of  courses  should  be  distinctly  stated, 
and  advanced  as  well  as  elementary  work  offered  in 
both  the  home-maker's  and  trade  sections  of  the 
domestic-art  work. 

Catalogues  of  Christian  Associations  and  settle- 
ments will  illustrate  the  courses  offered  by  these 
organizations. 

REFERENCES  FOR  STUDY 

"Report  of  Lake  Placid  Conference  on  Home  Economics," 
1908. 

"  Catalogues  of  Type  Schools  and  Settlements." 

"Trade  and  Technical  Education,"  Seventeenth  Annual 
Report  of  United  States  Commissioner  of  Labor,  1902. 

"The  Manhattan  Trade  School  for  Girls,"  Mary  S.  Wool- 
man.  Educational  Review,  Vol.  XXX,  September,  1905. 

"Trade  Schools.  An  Educational  and  Industrial  Necessity," 
Mary  S.  Woolman.  The  Social  Education  Quarterly,  Vol.  I, 
March,  1907. 

"Report  of  Massachusetts  Commission  on  Industrial  and 
Technical  Education,"  Boston,  1906. 


WORK  FOR   SECONDARY   SCHOOLS  245 

"Industrial  Education.  With  Reference  to  the  High 
School,"  E.  Davenport,  University  of  Illinois. 

" Education  for  Efficiency."  Vol.  XI,  English  Reports  on 
Education.  Curriculum  of  Secondary  Schools.  Sandford. 

"Our  Children,  Our  Schools,  and  Our  Industries."  Report 
1908,  Andrew  Draper,  Commissioner  of  Education,  Al- 
bany, N.  Y. 

"Industrial  Education  and  the  Public  Schools,"  George  H. 
Martin,  Secretary  Massachusetts  Board  of  Education,  1908. 

"The  Making  of  a  Girl's  Trade  School,"  Mary  S.  Wool- 
man,  1910. 


PART  IV 
DOMESTIC  ART  IN  HIGHER  EDUCATION 

CHAPTER  XII 

DOMESTIC    ART    AS    A    PART    OF    COLLEGE 
TRAINING    FOR    WOMEN 

HOUSEHOLD  arts  work  as  a  part  of  college  training 
for  women  is  being  introduced  in  many  of  the  West- 
ern State  and  agricultural  colleges.   It  is 

Introduction  ^ 

of  household      gradually  winning  its  way  against  the 

arts  in  state  . 

andagricuit-      old-time   conservatism   which   made  a 

ural  colleges.  ,,  r  ^1111 

college  course  for  women  exactly  parallel 
to  that  for  men.  The  changes  which  have  come  about 
in  college  courses  for  men  are  bound  to  affect  those 
for  women  and  eventually  relate  the  work  more  direct- 
ly to  the  life  which  the  woman  will  enter  after  leaving 
college.  The  Eastern  colleges  for  women  are  slow 
to  adopt  such  a  course,  but  before  many  years  they 
will  feel  the  necessity  of  offering  what  the  students 

will  demand  and  of  readjusting  their  courses  of  study 

246 


DOMESTIC  ART  AS  A  PART  OF  COLLEGE  TRAINING    247 

so  as  to  meet  the  needs  of  girls  interested  in  the 
home  and  its  beautifying,  organization,  and  improve- 
ment. The  majority  of  college  women  are  far  from 
practical,  and  few  see  the  real  relationship  of  the 
arts  and  sciences  studied  at  college  to  the  practical 
affairs  of  life.  The  writer  believes  that  college 
women  would  marry  earlier  in  life  if  their  interests 
were  enlisted  in  the  study  of  the  problems  directly 
connected  with  home-making;  there  can  be  nothing 
more  interesting  for  the  average  normal  woman.  If 
the  well-trained,  intelligent  college  women,  the 
leaders  of  affairs  in  the  world's  work  for  women, 
would  give  their  thoughts  and  energy  to  solving  the 
problems  of  domestic  science,  proper  food,  proper 
clothing  and  shelter — in  fact,  "right  living" — with 
the  least  amount  of  expenditure  of  time,  energy,  and 
money,  the  study  would  not  only  be  interesting  to 
them,  but  benefit  humanity  more  than  years  of  study 
of  Greek  and  Latin  classics,  for  it  stands  for  economy 
of  health  as  well  as  economy  of  wealth.  The  college 
woman  is  beginning  to  feel  this  and  to  make  her 
demands.  It  is  only  in  very  recent  years  that  any 
provision  has  been  made  in  colleges  for  the  women 
who  wished  or  were  compelled  to  make  teaching 
their  life-work.  The  women  were  filled  with  sub- 


248  DOMESTIC  ART 

ject-matter  and  graduated  and  expected  to  know 
intuitively  how  to  present  all  the  college  subjects. 
Many  college  women  go  into  the  teaching  field  in 
this  way  utterly  unprepared  to  present  their  subjects 
intelligently.  The  fact  that  many  of  the  superior 
ones  feel  their  lack  of  proper  preparation  is  evi- 
denced by  the  statistics  of  normal  training  schools, 
colleges  slow  where  these  women  register  for  study 
tho^who'must  in  education  an(3  methods  of  teaching, 
seek  livelihood.  Tne  college  for  women,  of  the  past,  has 
made  no  provision  for  training  women  who  must 
seek  some  means  of  livelihood  after  graduation, 
other  than  to  point  the  way  to  the  teaching  field. 
The  world  offers  so  many  fields  to  college  women  of 
to-day  that  the  least  the  college  can  do  is  to  open 
up  the  possibilities  and  give  some  opportunities  for 
specialization.  Surely  by  the  time  a  woman  reaches 
college,  her  dominant  interests  should  have  been 
developed  or  she  should  at  least  begin  to  take  an 
interest  in  what  they  are  likely  to  be. 

Household  arts  education  is  not  very  old.  It 
conservatism  nas  been  a  part  of  our  educational 
inTodultionof  schools  for  only  twenty  years— in  some 
household  arts,  places  it  is  not  yet  incorporated  as  a 
part  of  the  general  curriculum.  That  the  colleges 


DOMESTIC  ART  AS  A  PART  OF  COLLEGE  TRAINING    249 

are  slow  to  adopt  it  is  due  largely  to  the  old-time 
conservatism  and  lack  of  understanding  of  the  real 
meaning  of  " cultural" — for  it  has  been  claimed  that 
the  college  courses  must  be  cultural.  Regarding 
the  proposed  college  course  in  home  economics  of 
the  Lake  Placid  Conference,  Dr.  Balliet  said:  "The 
work  mapped  out  has  as  high  cultural  value  as  the 
best  courses  now  given  in  college,  if  we  must  keep 
on  contrasting  the  ' cultural'  and  the  ' practical,'  as 
if  they  were  mutually  hostile  to  each  other.  Some 
day — several  thousand  years  to  come — when  spec- 
tacled professors  shall  study  ' American  antiquities,' 
all  these  l common'  ' practical'  processes — the  ways 
of  cooking  meals,  manufacturing  clothes,  etc. — will 
be  ' cultural'  subjects  on  which  learned  courses  of 
lectures  will  be  given,  and  which  will  be  accepted 
as  proper  subjects  for  theses  for  the  degree  of  doctor 
of  philosophy.  .  .  .  Somehow,  according  to  college 
students,  knowledge  must  have  a  certain  age  before 
it  becomes  '  cultural.'  When  it  is  so  far  behind  the 
time  that  it  ceases  to  be  practical,  then  it  becomes 
cultural." 

College  authorities  often  have  a  singular  method 
of  differentiating  between  the  value  of  studies  in  the 
curriculum.  Mrs.  Ellen  Richards  once  said:  "The 


250  DOMESTIC  ART 

housing  of  the  poor  is  already  allowed  as  a  college 

course.     Why  not  the  housing  of  college  students? 

We    have   condescended   to   study  the 

Importance  of 

the  home  as  slums,  it  is  time  we  studied  ourselves." 
[To  this  might  be  added  not  only  the 
study  of  ourselves  in  relation  to  shelter,  but  also 
in  regard  to  proper  food  and  clothing,  the  admin- 
istration of  our  homes  and  the  care  and  nurture 
of  our  children.  There  can  be  no  more  impor- 
tant college  subject  than  the  home.  It  covers  the 
earth  as  far  as  fulness  of  subject-matter  is  con- 
cerned, and  all  the  arts  and  sciences  may  be  applied 
to  home  practices.  In  this  age  and  era  of  educa- 
tion, the  practical  must  be  reckoned  with  by  all 
who  are  planning  courses.  The  home  stands  as 
the  very  centre,  in  training  for  the  upbuilding  of 
character  or  for  good  citizenship;  and  if  this  effi- 
ciency is  the  aim  of  the  education  for  women,  then 
the  home  subjects  must  be  better  represented  in 
our  college  courses. 

There  have  been  many  difficulties  which  those 
Difficulties        interested  in  the  introduction  of  house- 

toSdu^r  hold  arts  work  into  colleges  have  had 
household  arts,  to  face.  Perhaps  the  old-time  conserv- 
atism mentioned  above  has  been  the  most  diffi- 


DOMESTIC  ART  AS  A  PART  OF  COLLEGE  TRAINING    251 

cult.  This  will  soon  pass  away  when  those  inter- 
ested in  this  field  of  work  are  able  to  present  the 
subjects  in  such  a  manner  as  to  appeal  to  college 
authorities.  There  may  be  objection  at  first  to  the 
introduction  of  any  practical  work,  but  at  least 
some  subject-matter  may  be  presented  in  lecture 
courses  and  an  introduction  given  to  this  field.  It 
very  often  happens  that  high  school  girls  preparing 
for  college  have  no  opportunity  for  the  study  of  house- 
hold arts,  since  their  courses  of  study  must  be  gov- 
erned to  a  great  extent  by  the  college  entrance  re- 
quirements. A  girl  who  fails  to  get  this  work  in 
high  school  naturally  goes  through  college  with  no 
knowledge  of  the  practical  affairs  of  the  home,  and 
if  she  is  at  college  away  from  home  there  is  no 
opportunity  for  her  to  come  in  touch  with  the  prac- 
tical things  of  life.  The  results  are  often  truly 
pitiable.  The  author  has  known  a  good  many  such 
girls  and  they  have  made  a  strong  appeal  to  her  for 
some  knowledge  of  the  practical.  As  one  girl  re- 
marked, "If  I  only  knew  how  to  make  my  own 
shirtwaists  and  summer  dresses  and  trim  my  own 
hats,  what  a  saving  it  would  mean  to  father!  And 
all  I  can  cook  is  fudge."  This  came  from  a  girl 
of  fine  mind,  a  graduate  of  one  of  the  Eastern  col- 


252  DOMESTIC  ART 

leges  for  women,  perfectly  prepared  in  mathematics 
and  interested  in  her  subject,  but  totally  ignorant  of 
Meeting  the  home  affairs.  This  girl  is  one  of  the  mar- 

affa'rs'of  life        ^8  ^P6'      What   rCSultS   arC   likdy   tO 

is  inevitable,  follow !  She  must  meet  the  practical  af- 
fairs :  they  are  inevitable.  She  will  be  obliged  to  learn 
through  sad  experience  in  a  more  or  less  painful 
way  and  at  the  sacrifice  of  her  own  health,  time, 
energy,  and  money,  as  well  as  that  of  her  family. 
She  is  only  one  of  many  such  girls  who  must  face 

I* 

the  home  problems.;  The  fact  that  colleges  have  not 
recognized  for  credit  the  high  school  work  in  house- 
hold science  has  greatly  hindered  the  development 

of  this  work  in  both  college  and  high  school.     The 

~~^ 

time  is  almost  here  when  college  entrance  boards 
will  accept  for  credit  certain  courses  given  in  house- 
hold arts  in  the  high  school.  The  fact  that  it  has 
not  been  credited  in  the  past  is  due  to  poor  teaching 
rather  than  to  insufficient  value  in  the  subject- 
matter.  Some  associations  for  college  entrance  are 
showing  interest  by  requesting  the  formulation  of 
possible  schemes  of  work  for  credit. 

Another  difficulty  has  been  the  lack  of  properly 
trained  teachers  to  present  this  work.  It  is  only 
very  recently  that  women  with  college  degrees  have 


DOMESTIC  ART  AS  A  PART  OF  COLLEGE  TRAINING    253 

become  interested  in  the  household  arts  work. 
Many  have  previously  considered  it  undignified 
other  and  have  turned  from  it  to  other  fields 

difficulties.  Qf  teaching.  We  must  have  our  in- 
structors in  literature  and  the  classics  in  order  that 
our  girls  may  know  this  field  of  spiritual  possession, 
but  we  need  strong  women  to  take  an  interest  in 
the  development  of  the  home  subjects  as  well.  Each 
year  produces  a  few  more  and  the  time  will  surely 
come  when  we  shall  have  competent  instruction  for 
college  work  in  home  economics.  The  field  is  very 
broad  and  the  opportunity  very  large  for  any  one 
who  will  prepare  herself  for  this  work.  House- 
keeping and  home-making  are  certainly  a  profes- 
sion, and  intelligent,  thoughtful  preparation  must  be 
demanded  from  those  who  are  to  present  this  sub- 
ject to  the  next  generation,  for  their  health  and  hap- 
piness are  at  stake. 

Another  difficulty  is  the  readjustment  of  subject- 
matter  in  order  that  this  work  may  find  a  place. 
This  is  easily  managed  when  the  authorities  are 
interested  and  face  the  value  of  this  work.  The 
arrangement  of  periods,  the  opportunity  for  courses 
in  applied  science  instead  of  all  pure  science  work, 
the  chance  for  elective  courses,  make  possible  the 


254  DOMESTIC  ART 

introduction,  if  there  is  a  willingness  to  have  it  in 
the  curriculum. 

There  are  many  possibilities  in  relation  to  subject- 
matter    on   both   the   artistic   and   scientific   sides 
of  home  management  and  study.     In 

Possibilities  in 

college  courses   relation  to  the  domestic-art  work  there 

for  women.  . 

are  many  phases  suitable  for  college. 
The  economic  side  of  clothing  and  shelter  offer 
opportunities  in  connection  with  a  general  course  in 
college  economics.  Woman  as  spender — what 
should  her  knowledge  be  of  materials,  their  manu- 
facture; how  to  purchase  and  regulate  her  expend- 
itures; how  to  judge  of  the  wage  and  demands 
made  of  the  worker  or  seamstress?  Should  she 
know  and  study  the  relative  expenditure  for  gowns, 
shoes,  hats,  gloves,  as  well  as  household  furnish- 
ing? Should  she  be  taught  to  think  of  economy  of 
time,  money,  and  energy  in  order  that  she  may  have 
time  to  enter  into  philanthropic  study  and  service? 

The  home  as  a  sociological  study  offers  opportunity 
for  courses  in  this  field — the  family,  the  home-maker, 
true  and  false  standards  of  living,  luxury,  relation- 
ship of  members  in  the  home,  the  true  home  spirit. 

From  an  artistic  point  of  view  much  of  interest 
can  be  offered — the  history  of  architecture,  and  of 


DOMESTIC  ART  AS  A  PART  OF  COLLEGE  TRAINING    255 

the  various  periods  of  decoration;  history  of  tapes- 
tries, and  of  other  textiles;  Ruskin  and  Morris  and 
their  influence  on  art  and  its  development ;  the  his- 
tory of  costume  and  evolution  of  dress.  Work  in 
practical  design  should  be  offered  in  connection 
with  such  a  course. 

Some  practical  work  in  the  study  of  materials, 
their  composition  and  adulteration,  will  prove  of 
interest  and  value  in  college  work.  The  standard- 
izing of  textiles  may  be  brought  about  when  women 
have  an  intelligent  understanding  of  their  composi- 
tion and  can  judge  between  values ;  this  will  •  lead 
naturally  to  a  demand  for  proper  labelling  and 
representation  of  their  composition.  Some  practical 
work  in  garment-making  may  well  find  a  place  in  a 
college  course  if  the  girls  have  had  no  high  school 
instruction  in  sewing.  The  work  should  be  of  value 
and  adapted  to  the  needs  and  interests  of  the 
students. 

These  arguments  for  the  introduction  of  house- 
hold arts  work  into  the  college  have  been  made 
because  the  home  is  the  dominant  interest  in  the 
lives  of  most  women.  The  writer  has  not  lost  sight 
of  the  other  college  courses  which  the  woman  if 
well  educated  should  surely  have — those  studies  in 


256  DOMESTIC  ART 

literature  and  language  which  make  for  freedom  of 
spirit  and  help  in  developing  the  imagination  and 
world  of  thought  and  feeling.  These  should  not  be 
neglected  when  a  woman  leaves  college,  but  should 
be  the  foundation  for  her  later  study  and  develop- 
ment. The  difficulty,  however,  in  so  many  homes  is 
that  the  women  are  hampered  by  their  so-called 
home  duties  and  have  little  or  no  time  to  soar  into 
the  realms  of  literature  or  art.  This  is  nearly  always 
due  to  a  lack  of  understanding  of  relative  values  and 
of  economy  of  time  in  home  management.  House- 
hold arts  and  economics  should  stand  for  simplicity 
in  material  things  so  that  there  will  be  time  for 
other  life-interests.  If  the  college  woman  knows 
nothing  of  household  economics,  how  can  she  be  free 
from  the  dominance  of  things  ?  If  she  knows  noth- 
ing of  the  resources  of  modern  science,  how  can  she 
apply  them  to  her  home  and  its  improvement  ?  It  is 
only  through  such  a  scientific  study  that  she  can 
make  the  ideal  home  of  the  future — the  home  which 
will  surely  be  the  solace  of  the  nation. 

The  following  scheme  may  be  suggestive  of  some 
of  the  possibilities  for  a  college  course  for  women. 
This  outline  gives  only  the  domestic-art  phases  of 
a  possible  course  in  household  arts. 


DOMESTIC  ART  AS  A  PART  OF  COLLEGE  TRAINING    257 

DOMESTIC  ART  AS  PART  OF  A  COURSE  IN  HOUSE- 
HOLD ARTS,  IN  COLLEGES  FOR  WOMEN 


Household 
Arts 


Domestic  science 
Domestic  art 


Food 

Shelter 

Clothing 


Home  management. 


The  courses  following  in  domestic  art  are  numbered  I  and  II, 
and  could  be  given  in  the  ist  and  3d  or  2d  and  4th  college 
years,  leaving  the  alternate  years  for  work  in  domestic  science. 

COURSE  I. — CLOTHING  AND  DESIGN 

Three  Periods  Weekly.     One-hour  Lecture.     Two  Hours  Prac- 
tical Work.     Throughout  the  Year 

I.    CLOTHING — 

(i)  Economics  of  spending. 

(1)  Woman  as  spender. 

(2)  Cost  of  clothing. 

(a)  Materials.  Affected  by  adulterations,  bargain  sales,  sec- 
onds, out  of  season  and  style,  sweatshop  labor,  quality,  econ- 
omy in  selection. 

(b}  Making,  (i)  Dressmaker,  seamstress,  time,  wage. 
(2)  Home-made  by  self — hand-work  on  gowns.  (3)  Time  for 
various  garments.  (4)  In  harmony  with  means,  occasion,  and 
personality— style,  comfort,  beauty.  (5)  Color  in  relation  to 
dress. 

(c)  Care  and  cleansing  of  clothes.  Repairing.  (Chemistry 
of  cleansing  and  textiles — related  course.) 

(3)  Relation  of  cost  of  clothing  to  income.     Proportion  for 
gowns,  hats,   coats,  shoes,  gloves,  etc.     Depending  on  life, 
position,  climate,  etc. 


258  DOMESTIC  ART 

(ii)  Hygiene  in  relation  to  clothing. 

(i)  Comparison  of  leading  textile  fibres. 

(a)  Chemically  and  microscopically. 

(b)  History,  growth,  manufacture,  properties  and  qualities 
as  affecting  health. 

(c)  In  respect  to  suitability  of  clothing  dependent  on  climate, 
occupation,  general  health,  etc. 

(iii)  Ethics  of  shopping. 

(1)  Consumers'  League. 

(2)  Sweatshop  labor. 

(3)  Co-operatives. 

(4)  Economy  of  time,  energy,  money,  through  system,  and 
consideration  of  others. 

(iv)  History  of  clothing, 
(i)  Evolution  of  dress. 

(a)  Relation  to  growth,  education,  and  environment  of  differ- 
ent periods. 

II.  DESIGN.     (Practical   work,   two  periods  weekly,   first 
semester) — 

(1)  Principles  of  design  and  combination  of  colors. 

(2)  Block  printing,  stencilling  for  scarfs,  cushions,  book- 
covers,  draperies,  etc. 

(3)  Designs  for  simple  hand-work  on  gowns. 

(4)  Drawing  human  figure.     Proportions,  draping,  lines  in 
relation  to  figure,  effects  on  appearance,  showing  art  in  lines 
of  dress,  costume  design. 

III.  CLOTHING.     (Practical  work  two  periods  weekly,  sec- 
ond semester) — 

(i)  Economy  in  ability  to  do. 

(a)  Making  of  shirtwaist  and  simple  summer  gowns  such  as 
would  appeal  to  college  girls. 


DOMESTIC  ART  AS  A  PART  OF  COLLEGE  TRAINING    259 

COURSE  II. — SHELTER 
(Two  Periods  per  Week  for  One  Year) 

I.    THE  HOUSE — 

(i)  The  exterior.     (History  of  architecture  a  related  course.) 

(1)  Appearance,  location,  city,  country,  suburb. 

(2)  Rents.     Proportion  of  rent  to  income,  number  of  indi- 
viduals, etc. 

(a)  Adaptation  to  needs,  position,  etc.,  of  occupants. 

(b)  False  standards. 

(3)  Municipal  art.     Municipal  League.     Woman  in  rela- 
tion to  civic  affairs.     (Social  economics  a  related  course.) 

(ii).  The  interior. 

(1)  The  home. 

(a)  Meaning,  atmosphere,  affected  by  social  changes;   effi- 
ciency, happiness  dependent  on. 

(b)  The  family,  the  home-maker,  false  standards;  desire  for 
luxury. 

(2)  The  decoration  and  furnishing. 

(a)  Economy,     (i)  Respect  to  beauty,  comfort,  and  health; 
position  and  needs  of  occupants.     (2)  Making  most  of  existing 
circumstances.     Dealing  with  and  planning  for  specific  prob- 
lems.    (3)  Least  expenditure  of  time,  energy,  money. 

(b)  Specific    rooms,     (i)  Bedrooms,    living-rooms,    dining- 
room,  etc.     Ceilings,  walls,  floors,  arrangement.     (2)  Decora- 
tion and  furnishing.    Floor  coverings,  walls,  draperies,  lighting, 
furniture,  glass,  pottery,  tapestries,  coloring,  materials,  quality, 
amount,  cost. 

(3)  Proportioning    of    household    expenditures.     Repairs. 
New  furnishing. 


260  DOMESTIC  ART 

II.  HISTORY  OF  PERIODS  OF  DECORATION— 

(1)  Handicraft  movement.     Ruskin  and  Morris  in  relation 
to  household  art. 

(2)  History  of  tapestries  and  other  textiles. 

(3)  History  of  silver,  glass,  etc. 

III.  EXCURSIONS— 

Stores,  factories,  museums,  study  of  furniture,  stained  glass, 
tapestry,  etc. 

REFERENCES  FOR  STUDY 

"Report  of  Lake  Placid  Conference  on  Home  Economics,'- 
1907. 


CHAPTER  XIII 

DOMESTIC    ART    IN    OTHER    HIGHER    INSTITU- 
TIONS OF  LEARNING 

DOMESTIC  ART  may  or  may  not  be  a  phase  of  a 
girl's  general  training  in  college,  but  it  now  forms  a 
decided  part  of  the  work  open  to  women  in  other 
higher  institutions  of  learning. 

It  is  offered  in  many  of  the  state  and  agricultural 
colleges  as  work  of  educational  value  open  to  women 
in  the  general  course  and  counts  for  credit  toward 
graduation.  This  is  often  designated  as  a  home- 
maker's  course  and  presents  work  in  the  various 
phases  of  domestic  art  as  previously  outlined.  The 
work  is  often  required  as  part  of  the  general  course, 
with  opportunity  for  electives  if  there  is  particular 
interest  in  this  specialty.  In  other  instances  this 
work  is  entirely  elective.  The  courses  offered  are 
generally  of  a  practical  nature — garment  and  dress 
making,  millinery  and  embroidery,  designing  and 
work  in  textiles.  As  yet  little  attention  has  been 

paid   to  the  economic  and   ethical  phases   of  the 

261 


262  DOMESTIC  ART 

work,  although  the  artistic  and  scientific  sides  have 
received  some  attention.  These  should  be  of  par- 
ticular interest  in  higher  education  and  make  woman 
a  wiser  administrator  of  the  funds  which  it  will  be 
her  duty  to  disburse  as  she  carries  on  the  business 
of  home-making.  The  courses  offered  in  the  State 
and  agricultural  colleges  should  aim  to  give  this 
direction  to  the  work.  It  is  fatal  to  the  cause  for 
students  graduating  from  this  general  course  in 
the  State  college  to  go  into  this  teaching  field 
without  additional  preparation.  Many  of  these 
State  colleges  have  normal  departments  where 
additional  training  may  be  had  in  the  more  strictly 
educational  phases  of  the  work.  Examples  of  the 
State  and  agricultural  colleges  giving  work  in  do- 
mestic art  are  Ohio  State  University;  University  of 
Illinois ;  Ames  Agricultural  College,  Ames,  la ;  Mich- 
igan State  Agricultural  College;  University  of  Ten- 
nessee. 

Home-maker's  courses  are  offered  in  many  of  the 
higher  institutions  besides  the  State  and  agricultural 
college.  They  are  open,  as  a  rule,  to  girls  with 
and  without  previous  high  school  training,  and-  may 
be  of  an  elementary  or  advanced  nature.  The  work 
offered  covers  practical  courses  in  household  man- 


DOMESTIC  ART  IN   OTHER  INSTITUTIONS        263 

agement,  care  of  children,  home  nursing,  elementary 
and  advanced  cookery  for  household  use,  garment- 
making,  dressmaking,  millinery,  costume  design, 
house  sanitation,  housewifery,  and  others.  These, 
studies  group  themselves  about  the  shelter,  nutri- 
tion, and  clothing  of  the  family,  and  reach  a  large 
class  of  girls  who  will  probably  marry  early  and 
do  not  care  for  the  more  academic  studies,  but  are 
interested  in  the  practical  things  of  life.  Such 
courses  cannot  fail  to  produce  better  and  more  in- 
telligent homekeepers.  Domestic  art  offers  such 
students  courses  in  dressmaking,  garment-making, 
millinery,  and  embroidery.  Courses  in  costume 
designing,  color  harmony,  elementary  design,  and 
house  decoration,  study  in  the  fabrics  for  use  both  for 
clothing  and  furnishings,  and  distinctive  study  in  the 
wise  purchase  of  articles  of  clothing  and  furnishings. 
The  hygiene,  cost,  durability,  repair,  and  selection 
of  materials  are  all  closely  allied  in  this  economic 
study.  Examples  of  this  type  of  course  may  be 
found  at  the  School  of  Household  Arts,  Teachers 
College,  Columbia  University;  Pratt  Institute,  Brook- 
lyn; Stout  Training  School  for  Homemakers,  Me- 
nominee,  Wis.;  Drexel  Institute,  Philadelphia;  Uni- 
versity of  Chicago,  and  others. 


264  DOMESTIC  ART 

Normal  domestic-art  training  is  offered  in  many  of 
our  universities,  colleges,  and  technical  institutions. 
In  most  of  these  the  course  is  open  to  high  school 
graduates,  although  some  require  two  years  of  work 
in  advance  of  the  high  school  training.  This,  as  a 
rule,  insures  a  better  grade  of  teacher  and  the  course 
proves  of  greater  value  than  when  taken  without 
additional  training  or  experience.  It  is  very  wise 
for  young  students  expecting  ultimately  to  specialize 
in  domestic-art  teaching  to  have  some  experience  in 
general  teaching  before  undertaking  the  specialty. 
As  a  rule  they  make  much  better  teachers  when  they 
possess  some  knowledge  of  general  class-room  man- 
agement. A  normal  course  in  domestic  art  should  of- 
fer instruction  in  the  following  subjects  which  cannot 
possibly  receive  just  treatment  in  less  than  two  years 
of  intensive  study.  A  three  years'  course  is  advisable. 

(1)  History  and  principles  of  education. 

(2)  General  and  educational  psychology. 

(3)  Theory  of  teaching  domestic  art,  with  oppor- 
tunity for  practical  work  in  its  various  phases. 

(4)  Supervision  and  organization  of  work  in  vari- 
ous types  of  schools. 

(5)  The  study  of  textiles,  their  manufacture,  eco- 
nomic purchase,  durability,  properties,  and  use. 


DOMESTIC  ART  IN   OTHER  INSTITUTIONS        265 

(6)  Garment-making,  to  include  the  application 
of  all  the  hand-sewing  stitches. 

(7)  Dressmaking,  both  elementary  and  advanced, 
with  facilities  for  practice. 

(8)  Millinery. 

(9)  Miscellaneous  hand-work,  such  as  crocheting, 
knitting,  and  weaving. 

(10)  Elementary  design  and  color  harmony.     Ad- 
vanced work  in  design  and  color,  with  direct  appli- 
cation to  costume  and  home  furnishings. 

(n)  The  home  as  a  sociological  study.  Its  spirit, 
plans  for  its  artistic  study,  both  on  the  exterior  and 
interior. 

(12)  Economics  of  the  home  in  relation  to  home 
management,  expenditures,  purchase  and  repair  of 
household  clothing  and  furnishings. 

Such  training  prepares  for  the  teaching  of  sewing 
in  elementary  or  high  schools  and  supervisory  work 
in  schools  or  higher  institutions.  Not  all  teachers, 
however,  who  pursue  such  a  course  are  fitted  to  do 
supervisory  work.  Much  will  depend  on  the  pre- 
vious training  and  experience.  The  demand  in  the 
teaching  field  of  higher  education  is  at  present  for 
women  who  have  college  degrees  as  well  as  diplomas 
for  teaching  the  specialty.  Such  women  must 
possess  strong  personalities  and  have  the  power  of 


266  DOMESTIC   ART 

initiative.  The  demand  for  this  type  of  woman 
cannot  be  met  and  the  field  is  open  to  those  who 
will  prepare  themselves  adequately  for  it. 

With  the  development  of  trade  school  work  in 
this  country  will  probably  come  a  demand  for 
teachers  and  directors  for  such  schools.  In  addi- 
tion to  the  above  outlined  course,  directors  of  trade 
schools  should  be  students  of  general  economics 
and  sociology,  as  well  as  of  the  industrial  conditions 
of  women  and  children.  They  should  be  college 
women  of  the  highest  training  with  the  spirit  of 
investigation  and  a  willingness  to  probe  the  diffi- 
culties in  this  particular  field.  So  many  of  the 
trades  open  to  women  group  themselves  about  the 
needle  that  it  is  preferable  that  the  director  be  a 
woman  who  knows  well  the  domestic-art  field  of 
work,  although  the  future  will  see  other  lines  of 
trade  for  women  .introduced  in  this  type  of  school. 
The  teachers  in  trade  schools  should  be  women  with 
specific  intensive  knowledge  of  the  kind  of  work  to 
be  taught.  The  general  course  in  domestic  art  as 
outlined,  with  perhaps  some  omissions  of  the  psy- 
chology and 'history  of  education,  will  make  a  good 
foundation  for  future  intensive  practical  work  in 
trade,  of  some  phase  of  domestic  art,  or  may  sup- 


DOMESTIC  ART  IN   OTHER  INSTITUTIONS        267 

plement  the  practical  work  of  years  of  experience 
in  trade.  Normal  training  courses  are  given  in 
Teachers  College,  Columbia  University;  Drexel 
Institute,  Philadelphia;  Mechanics' Institute,  Roch- 
ester; Stout  Training  School,  Menominee,  and 
other  institutions. 

Household  arts  work  in  higher  institutions  is 
beginning  to  offer  opportunity  to  students  to  prepare 
themselves  for  non-teaching  positions.  Courses  are 
open  to  those  who  wish  to  prepare  for  institutional 
and  household  administration,  dietetics,  manage- 
ment of  laundries,  social  work,  nursing,  costume 
design,  house  decoration,  and  other  specific  fields. 
Domestic-art  work  enters  as  a  phase  of  the  prepara- 
tion of  institutional  and  household  administrators 
on  the  specific  side  of  design,  clothing,  and  textiles, 
their  economic  purchase,  care,  use,  properties,  etc. 
This  phase  of  domestic-art  work  enters  also  into  the 
training  of  social  workers,  house  decorators,  and  cos- 
tume designers. 

Examples  of  institutions  offering  such  training' are: 
Household  Arts  School,  Columbia  University;  Sim- 
mons College,  Boston;  Pratt  Institute,  Brooklyn, 
and  others. 


A  SELECTED   BIBLIOGRAPHY  OF  BOOKS 

HELPFUL    IN    THE    STUDY    OF    THE 

VARIOUS  PHASES  OF  DOMESTIC  ART 

EDUCATIONAL 

(1)  "The  Method  of  the  Recitation."     McMurray.     (Mac- 

millan,  1904.) 

(2)  "The  Educative  Process."     Bagley.     (Macmillan,  1905.) 

(3)  "Principles    of    Teaching,      Elements    of    Psychology." 

Thorndike.     (A.  G.  Seiler,  New  York,  1907.) 

(4)  "School    and     Society."     Dewey.     (Chicago    University 

Press,  1899.) 

(5)  "The   Place   of    Industries   in    Elementary    Education." 

K.  E.  Dopp.     (Chicago  University  Press.) 

(6)  "English  Reports  on  Education."     Sadler.     (Vols.  10  and 

n,  American  Education.) 

(7)  "The  Making  of  Our  Middle  Schools."     Brown.     (Long- 

mans, 1903.) 

(8)  "Youth.     Its  Education,  Regimen,  and  Hygiene."     G.  S. 

Hall.     (Appleton,  1907.) 

(9)  "Teachers  College   Records."     (Teachers   College,   New 

York.) 

(10)  "The  Child  and  the  Curriculum."     Dewey.     (University 

of  Chicago  Press.) 

269 


270  DOMESTIC  ART 

(n)  "Notes    on    Child    Study."     Thorndike.     (Macmillan, 


(12)  "  Report   of    Massachusetts    Commission  on    Industrial 

and  Technical  Education."     (Boston,  1906.) 

(13)  "Trade  and  Technical  Education."    (Seventeenth  Annual 

Report  of  the  United  States  Commissioner  of  Labor, 
1902,  Washington.) 

(14)  "The  Manhattan  Trade   School  for  Girls."     Mary  S. 

Woolman.     (Educational  Review,  September,  1905, 
vol.  30.) 

(15)  "Trade  Schools  —  An  Educational  and  Industrial  Neces- 

sity."    Mary  S.  Woolman.     (The  Social  Education 
Quarterly,  vol.  i,  March,  1907.) 

(16)  "The  American  High  School."     J.  F.  Brown.     (Mac- 

millan, 1910.) 

(17)  "Beginnings    in    Industrial    Education."     Paul    Hanus. 

(Houghton  Mifflin,  1908.) 

(18)  "The   Making  of  a    Girls'   Trade   School."     Mary   S. 

Woolman.     (Whitcomb  and  Barrows,  Boston.) 

SEWING  AND  DRESSMAKING 

(1)  "School  Needlework."     O.  C.  Hapgood,  1893  (Teachers' 

Edition).     (Ginn.) 

(2)  "A  Sewing  Course."     Mary  Schenck  Woolman.     (F.  A. 

Frenald,  Buffalo,  N.  Y.,  1908.) 

(3)  "Dressmaking  Up  to  Date."     (Butterick  Publishing  Com- 

pany.) 

(4)  "The  Complete  Dressmaker."     (Edited  by  C.  E.  Laugh- 

lin,  1907.) 

(5)  "Dress  Cutting,  Drafting,  and  French  Pattern  Modelling." 

M.  Prince  Brown.     (Archibald  Constable  and  Com- 
pany, London.) 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  271 


MISCELLANEOUS  HAND-WORK 

(1)  "How  to  Make  Baskets."     Mary  White.     (Doubleday, 

Page.) 

(2)  "  Varied  Occupations  in  String  Work."     Louise  Walker. 

(Macmillan,  1895.) 

(3)  "Occupations    for    Little    Fingers."     Sage    and    Cooley. 

(Scribner,  1905.) 

(4)  "Embroidery."     W.   G.  Townsend.     (Truslon,  London, 

1899.) 

(5)  "Embroideries  and  Their  Stitches."     (Butterick  Publish- 

ing Company,  New  York.) 

(6)  "Practical  Millinery."     J.  Ortner.     (Whitaker,  London, 

1897.) 

(7)  "Columbia  Book  of  the  Use  of  Yarns."     Wm.  H.  Horst- 

man  Company,  Philadelphia.) 

(8)  "Woman's  Library  of  Needlework."     Ethel  McKenna, 

1903. 

(9)  "Lace."     Goldenberg.     (Brentano,  1904.) 

HOUSEHOLD  ART 

(1)  "Philosophy  of  Color."     Clifford,  1904. 

(2)  "Color,  Dress,  and  Needlework."     Lucy  Crane.     (Mac- 

millan.) 

(3)  "Suggestions  for  Instruction  in  Color."     (Prang,  1893.) 

(4)  "Art  in  Needlework."     L.  F.  Day.     (Scribner,  1900.) 

(5)  "Household    Art."     Mrs.    Candace    Wheeler.     (Harper, 

1893-) 

(6)  "  Some  Principles  of  Every-Day  Art."     L.  F.  Day.     (Scrib- 

ner, 1900.) 


272  DOMESTIC  ART 

(7)  " Household    Art."     Mrs.    Candace    Wheeler.     (Harper, 

1893-) 

(8)  "Plea  for  Handicraft."     Crane.     (The  Philistine  Maga- 

zine, March,  1900.) 

(9)  "Colonial  Furniture  in  America."     Lockwood.     (Scribner, 

1901.) 

(10)  "History    of    English    Furniture."     Percy    Macquoid. 

(Putnam,  1904-6.) 
(n)  "History  of  Architecture."     Hamlin.     (Longmans,  1895.) 

(12)  "Houses  in  City  and  Country."     H.  Stone,  1903. 

(13)  "The  Art  of  Right  Living."     Ellen  H.  Richards. 

DRESS 

(1)  "Costumes  of  Colonial  Times."     Earle.     (Scribner,  1894.) 

(2)  "Two  Centuries  of  Dress  in  America."     Earle.     (Mac- 

millan,  1903.) 

(3)  "What  Dress  Makes  Us."     Quigley.     (Dutton,  1897.) 

(4)  "English  Costume."    Callthorp.     (A.  and  C.  Black,  Lon- 

don, 1906.) 

(5)  "The  Human  Body."    Martin.     (Holt,  1900.) 

ECONOMIC  AND  SOCIOLOGICAL  STUDIES 

(1)  "Principles  of  Economics."     Fetter.     (Century,  1904.) 

(2)  "The  Woman  Who  Spends."     Richardson.     (Whitcomb, 

1904.) 

(3)  "How  to  Keep  Household  Accounts."    Haskins.     (Har- 

per, 1903.) 

(4)  "Home  Economics."     M.  Parloa.     (Century,  1898.) 

(5)  "Encyclopedia  of  Household  Economy."     E.  Holt.     (Mc- 

Clure,  Philadelphia.) 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  273 

(6)  "  Economic  Function  of  Women."    Edward  De vine.    (Pub- 

lished by  American  Academy  of  Political  and  Social 
Science,  No.  133,  Philadelphia.) 

(7)  "Social  Control."     Ross.     (Macmillan,  1901.) 

(8)  "Democracy  and  Social  Ethics."     Jane  Addams.     (Mac- 

millan, 1902.) 

(9)  "The    Level    of    Social    Motion."     Lowe.     (Macmillan, 

1902.) 

(10)  "New    Basis    of    Civilization."    Patten.     (Macmillan, 

1907.) 
(IT)  " Cost  of  Living."     Ellen  H.  Richards. 

(12)  "Home  Problems  from  a  New  Standpoint."     Caroline 

L.  Hunt. 

(13)  "Vocations  for  the  Trained  Woman."     (Women's  Edu- 

cational and  Industrial  Union,  of  Boston,  1910.) 

STUDY  OF  TEXTILES 

(1)  "The  Story  of  the  Cotton  Plant."     F.Wilkinson.     (Apple- 

ton,  1899.) 

(2)  "Cotton  Spinning."     F.  Marsden.     (Macmillan,  1895.) 

(3)  "Woolen  Spinning."     Charles  Vickerman.     (Macmillan, 

1894.) 

(4)  "Textile  Fibres."    Matthews.     (Wiley,  1904.) 

(5)  "The  Dyeing  of  Textile  Fabrics."     Hummel.     (Cassell, 

1893-) 

(6)  "  Textiles  and  Clothing."    Kate  H.  Watson.     (American 

School  of  Home  Economics,  Chicago.) 

(7)  "Woolen  and  Worsteds."    McLaren.     (Cassell,  1899.) 

(8)  "Linen— How  It  Grows."     (National  Flax  Fibre  Com- 

pany, 1900.) 

(9)  "Linen  Trade— Ancient  and  Modern."    Warden.     (Long- 

mans, 1867.) 


274  DOMESTIC  ART 

(10)  "Silk  Culture  in  California."     Carrie  Williams.    (Whit- 

aker,  1902.) 
(n)  "  Weaving    and    Designing."     Ashenhurst.     (Simpkins, 

London,  1879.) 

The  following  magazines  give  helpful  suggestions  for  those 

interested  in  domestic  art: 

"The  School  Arts  Book."  $1.50  per  year.  (Davis  Press, 
Worcester,  Mass.) 

"The  Manual  Training  Magazine."  $1.50  per  year.  (Man- 
ual Arts  Press,  Peoria,  111.) 

"The  Ladies'  Home  Journal."  $1.50  per  year.  (Curtis  Pub- 
lishing Company,  Philadelphia.) 

"The  Good  Housekeeping  Magazine."  $1.50  per  year. 
(Phelps  Publishing  Company,  Springfield,  Mass.) 

"The  Woman's  Home  Companion."  $1.25  per  year.  (Cro- 
well  Publishing  Company,  New  York.) 

"The  Delineator."  $1.00  per  year.  (Butterick  Publishing 
Company,  New  York.) 

"Harper's  Bazar."     $1.25  per  year.      (Harper  &  Bros.,  New 

York.) 

" L'Art  de  la  Mode."    $3.50  per  year.    (Morse,  Broughton  Co., 

New  York.) 

"Elementary  School  Teacher."  $1.50  £er  year.  (University 
of  Chicago  Press,  Chicago.) 

"Teachers  College  Record."  $1.00  per  year.  (Teachers 
College,  Columbia  University,  New  York.) 

"Educational  Review."  $3.00  per  year.  (Educational  Re- 
view Company,  Columbia  University,  New  York.) 

"The  Survey,"  formerly  " Charities  and  the  Commons."  $2.00 
per  year.  (Charity  Organization  Society.) 

"The  Craftsman."  $3.00  per  year.  (Gustav  Stickley,  41 
West  Thirty-fourth  Street,  New  York.) 

•: 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW 

AN     INITIAL     FINE     OF     25     CENTS 

WILL   BE  ASSESSED    FOR    FAILURE  TO    RETURN 
THIS  BOOK  ON  THE  DATE  DUE.      THE  PENALTY 
WILL  .NCREASE  TO  SO  CENTS  ON  ™E  FOURTH 
DAY    AND    TO     $1.OO    ON     THE    SEVENTh 
OVERDUE. 


»\uV  24  1935 


MOV  29  1937 
JUL  22  1947 


LD  21-50m-8,'32 


YB  67981. 


- 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


